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Old 02-23-2007, 09:54 AM   #4411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJames987
I was putting a moror in my car last night and when I got to the clutch assembly i got a little stumped. The spring that goes over the shaft has a retainer thing that screw it down. The instruction showed a measurement of .05 but i cant tell what they are measuring. I just threaded it down a couple of turn (as tight as I could get it by hand). Any advice on this would be much appreciated. Thanks.

From what i can understand of your post what you adjusted is the pre load on the clutch spring.The .5 that was mentioned is how much of the thread should stick out from the adjuster nut that is screwed to tighten up on the spring.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:32 AM   #4412
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Originally Posted by razzor
Nitrobeast lets start again .
We have to figure this out.
What have you changed to date ??
list all changes.
Must be something we overlooking.
I have tried 4 different servos
4 different receivers
2 different batteries
replaced the power wire that connects the battery to the receiver
ballon on the receiver
removed aluminum antenna holder
made the hole that the antenna passes through bigger and added fuel tubbing and some aerial tubing through it.



Since that pic i have soldered the battery and added shrink tubing to the antenna wire. Twisted the throttle servo wires. The steering used to also glitch but has stoped since i replaced it with a hitec servo that had the wires twisted. I think i am gonna buy another hitec and put it on the throttle and see if it stops. At the moment i am thinking it has to be something about the cheap servos that i was using.

I have also drilled the receiver holder so the antenna wire comes straight out and not have to bend.

I have tried another remote.

I have also toped off all the batteries and it still happens.

I am sure i am missing something
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:40 AM   #4413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaDaGAS CAR
i had glitching and removed the little alloy ariel holder and expanded the hole on the cf radio tray so the ariel tube go's directly through and doesnt touch any CF can post pics if u dont know what i mean
yeah lets see a pic, maybe i can see something that might catch my eye.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:41 AM   #4414
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what servos u using ?

When I had my glitch problems ,we found it was the servos back feeding.after I changed them everything was fine ,but you d=said you chaged everything on the car.

U changed the on/off lead too ???
U reset all setting on radio ???

im looking over my car at the moment to figure this out,.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:50 AM   #4415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
what servos u using ?

When I had my glitch problems ,we found it was the servos back feeding.after I changed them everything was fine ,but you d=said you chaged everything on the car.

U changed the on/off lead too ???
U reset all setting on radio ???

im looking over my car at the moment to figure this out,.
I had the spektrum ones for steering and throttle and they both would glitch. They are made by jr.
At the moment i have a hitec 645mg for steering and the steering is fine but only since i put the hitech in.
For the throttle i have a stock servo that came in one of my buggies. Its brand new since i pulled it out as soon as i got the buggy.

Like i said i think it has to do with the servo that the throttle has because the steering was also bad but now is good ever since a replaced it with the hitec.

When you say on/off lead do you mean the one that connects the battery to the receiver? if yes then yes i did replace that also.

I tried reseting all the radio setting and nothing so then i tried another remote which was brand new with factory setting and still glitches.
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:00 AM   #4416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
First of all you have to set your ideal droop, then taking into account that the carís ride height decreases as the foam tires wear down to smaller diameters, and having calculated your tire wear ratio over a certain period of time, you must set your ride height with the smallest tires you think you will run at a certain point in a race, and then you just cut the tire size you want, depending if is a short or long race, this way youíll never change the ride height, and or droop, just change tires depending on length of race.

For example: If you set 4mm ride height with a 57mm tire, you will have 5.5mm with a 60mm tire and 7.5mm with a 64mm tire

You should select tire hardness and diameters to achieve even tire wear and a reasonable variation in ride height for longer races.

AFM

gidday Guys, AFM knows what is talking, read his posts and you will learn alot, He has been in racing for MANY MANY years!!!
Hope to seeya at the track
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:03 AM   #4417
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which is better g4 evo or g4s?
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:31 AM   #4418
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S with out a doubt !!!
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:25 PM   #4419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkiesteban
which is better g4 evo or g4s?
Like our good friend razzor said...the S. I think the "S" could stand for the SH*T! Are you planning on getting one or currently looking at different sedans?? Let us know so we can help answer questions bro.
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:56 PM   #4420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast
Thats a shielded antenna wire. Nomadio seems to be top of the line. I did that tip but with fuel tubing and it didnt help. Thanks for the pic

I cant believe that i am the only one that cant figure this out. I feel like driving this car full speed into the wall. I have always been able to find glitching problems with all my radios and cars. This is the car i love the most but fear the most to drive it.
I know how you feel, years ago I had a Airtronics Caliper3ps (? model before M8) I had nothing but trouble with it. It glitched no matter what I tried, including multiple trips to Airtronics for adjusting.

The worst ever though was when I was learning to fly planes. I had a nice Jr radio that I used for my heli. I bought a new rx for a plane that I spent maybe 60 or so hrs building. I took the plane to the field and had a competition pilot do my initial "test fly". On the ground everything checked out. He flew for a few minutes, and I watched in horror as my precious plane went full speed nose into the ground from a couple hundred feet up. I never touched the sticks.

Sent the receiver in to Jr and they said "Sorry about that, the Rx had a faulty solder. We fixed for free...."

Good luck finding the cure...
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:46 PM   #4421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33
I know how you feel, years ago I had a Airtronics Caliper3ps (? model before M8) I had nothing but trouble with it. It glitched no matter what I tried, including multiple trips to Airtronics for adjusting.

The worst ever though was when I was learning to fly planes. I had a nice Jr radio that I used for my heli. I bought a new rx for a plane that I spent maybe 60 or so hrs building. I took the plane to the field and had a competition pilot do my initial "test fly". On the ground everything checked out. He flew for a few minutes, and I watched in horror as my precious plane went full speed nose into the ground from a couple hundred feet up. I never touched the sticks.

Sent the receiver in to Jr and they said "Sorry about that, the Rx had a faulty solder. We fixed for free...."

Good luck finding the cure...

Hence why I stay on the ground and water.
Had my trainer level out and fly into the sunset
Got back a fuselage a weeks later from 30kms away.
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:27 PM   #4422
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[QUOTE=Serpentd]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak

And Frankie, Dude you better keep me posted on your engine progress! I have missed chatting with you guys since I've been sick and all. You all have a great weekend. I hope that TZ treats you well my friend. Keep me posted. Later everyone!!!

Hey D,

Man i have been so way busy you wouldnt believe not even enought time to post, LOL or post my pretty pics fr you and Patto

Oi, man in the last 48 hours 3 cars i have had to get ready, mine, my bros TC3 " now dead" and a borrowed GPX4 - all for Todays practice!!!

My car D, motor wise, sweet azzz a new HOT ROD - she is good, clean new and fresh again with new lungs its gonna be fun today to tst the new setup up!!!

I have gone for the lay down setup on the front to see how it works, i cna only try to see if it makes the car better or worse time will tell bro!!!

Oi your SIK? "cough flue" Cough flue" oooh no i wish you healthy well soon bro - trust me i know i am soon to get it as 2am finished in the last week is reallly got to me this morning

Oi OI again good news - i have got my bro a super deal on a G4s Pro Kit - i will buy it for him this week, so he can join our family and enjoy what we all share " a KILLA FUN CAR"!!!

Right on here we have the best tips, the best lads at times LOL nah we all cool and we all help thats what i like about you all---

Get out, get real, go crazy - coz today is Thrash day for us and we going have some fun x-finger's!

For now if i dont see you all, goodmorning, good evening and good night - later tonight i hope to have some photos and even footage - i have that trusty camera on me LOL!!!

Peace Out - and sorry for my blah blah long post, i just had to keep it long like you LOL

Cheers
Frankie
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:29 PM   #4423
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what is the difference between g4s and g4 evo?? when did the evo was released? what year?
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:46 PM   #4424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Hence why I stay on the ground and water.
Had my trainer level out and fly into the sunset
Got back a fuselage a weeks later from 30kms away.
Razzor Dude, at least it was trimmed out well. Impressive. Sounds as though the engine was just right as well since it probably ran out of fuel.

I have about 10+ planes including my pride and joy F16 Pusher prop. The only issue I have ever had is a dead spot on an ailoron servo. Managed to do a soft landing in a field with minimal damage. I am too scared to take up my pusher prop F16 for a lot of reasons. For example the 50 hours of detail and work alone for the cockpit, you can imagine the hours and money into this plane. More the hours then anything. It took over 9 months to build with me working on it every night after work. I know I will fly it one of these days. I love to fly RC planes, but it's a way different feeling then our cars. Will post a few pics.

Anyway, back to Nitrobeast's problem here. OK dude, I have given it a lot of thought and here is my suggestion to you.

1. Take out ALL of the radio equipment in the car. Even take it off of the radio tray to where all you have is your radio equipment and nothing more. We need to start with basics I think.

2. Then hook up everything to receiver just as it would be in the car. Plug your servos and everything in.

3. Bind the radio to receiver.

4. I'm not sure of the distance that it will start to clitch, but turn on radio and plug in battery to receiver so everything is operational. I would go outside and set your radio down and start walking away until it starts to glitch. If it glitches next to the radio, put the radio about 5 or 10 feet away and don't worry about going outside at this point.

5. Observe what is glitching, Like servo 1 or servo 2 etc. Unplug the servo that glitches and try it in the slot of the other servo that doesn't glitch. Observe what is going on. Also, try the good or your Hitec servo in the other receiver slot. Observe your findings.

6. Keep trying all the different combos to narrow down what is going on. Even try your other servos, battery's or recievers if need be. I think you understand what I am saying here. All we're trying to do is what you already have been doing but out of the car.

7. After you think you found the issue and have a stable platform, then go outside and do the radio test. See how far you can walk away from the radio with the radio equipment in your hand before you glitch because of weak signal. I would recommend to put the radio at chest level or so to get an accurate reading as though you were driving without a drivers stand. But use you best judgement on this.

8. If or when you find something that works, reinstall the equipment back in the radio tray and then do the "radio" walk test again to see if you can go the same distance as before.

9. Finally install in your car and redo the radio test one last time for good measure.

I hope this all makes sence my friend.

Dude, I know this has been a pain in the ass for you. This is the best thing that I could think of to try and help you diagnose your problem. Please keep us posted on your results. Because we might need to invest in explosives or an Exosism or something after all this. Best of luck bro!!! Later.
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:46 PM   #4425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkiesteban
what is the difference between g4s and g4 evo?? when did the evo was released? what year?
Evo was released in 2005. Go to first page of this thread and you'll find the explanation of differences with the "S"
Definitively the "S" is superior.

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