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Old 02-22-2007, 07:39 PM   #4381
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hey guys heres some pics of the mugen shockends and steering links
all with mugen flanged balls and long grubs screws except i put button screws though the top of steering bell
those little sucker wont come out this race meet

paul
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:43 PM   #4382
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well done pauly, i want some now Hook me Up bro!!!
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:49 PM   #4383
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there is a little messing around with these mods like cutting the links shorter
on steering
and cutting a little off front steering hub were the links is so they dont rub
but well worth the strength i reckon

paul
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:58 PM   #4384
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Well I recieved my kit 2 days ago. I have spent the last two nights putting it together. I hate to say it but I am not impressed. This is a G4 E-Class kit. Should I have just got the G4S kit?
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:02 PM   #4385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Well I recieved my kit 2 days ago. I have spent the last two nights putting it together. I hate to say it but I am not impressed. This is a G4 E-Class kit. Should I have just got the G4S kit?

G4S kit is the pro kit - the G4 E - is this the EVO kit with less carbo bits and differant chasis?

cheers
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:10 PM   #4386
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
G4S kit is the pro kit - the G4 E - is this the EVO kit with less carbo bits and differant chasis?

cheers
Ok.....Are the Shocks the Same on both kits? Are all the Aluminum parts still stamped? Its going together very easy I was just hopeing for better quality.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:48 PM   #4387
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Originally Posted by MaDaGAS CAR
gotcha have u used losi drivers they are awesome the problem isnt the size fits perfect but and the tips never strip. every now and then i grind them bak but thats it im yet to break a tip. the reason it stripped is cos its way too hard to start a thread in the k factory hardened rear arms and i wasnt pushing hard enough.
Dude, I gotcha bro! I totally understand what you mean by a strong plastic. I appologize for misunderstanding the part that you stripped. Just wanted to clarify to everyone how important good tools are. And you already know! SWEET! I am glad you pointed out you issue too, i'll have to keep an eye on that one. Anyway, I haven't ran into any issues with the tough plastic on our G4S yet, but have with other vehicles. I would by a tap for these situations because it's amazing how strong some of this plastic can get. No tools or lube or whatever could prevent you from stripping something. I want to say it was on the Team Associated or Team Losi something or other. I have too many vehicles to remember them all. Unless of coarse I raced with them.

No, I haven't tried the Losi tools, pretty sweet huh? They look killer! Plus I have never had to grind back any of my tools, but there are so many different alloys used these days. I would prefer a little forgiveness then breaking a tool. I have only really broke the Hudy's when missused and in a hurry. Like panic fix in the pits. and it's only been the super small tips. Yes...these are straight up DUMBASS no-no's. That's why I will stock up on certain tips because I know it will happen again. I know everyone here knows what I am talking about. In your mind you say "dude, I shouldn't do this" then all the sudden...SNAP!! Well, maybe I am the only one, but everyone know me enough be now that I can be a bit hard headed. See, I'm even hard headed against myself!

I hope you found a replacement. I know that there are a LOT of pillow balls (pivot balls) have the same size "ball", but just be a little longer or shorter then the next one. So I hope you get squared away to race bro!!! I'm sure everything will be cool. Oh yeah, I think you did mention that you had something that would work from an old car or something. Sorry all, I have this crap ass cold and am very spacey. So if this post makes no sence, please disregard all of it. Plus if I upset anyone please disregard it all also. Take care bro. Later
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:05 PM   #4388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Ok.....Are the Shocks the Same on both kits? Are all the Aluminum parts still stamped? Its going together very easy I was just hopeing for better quality.

depends what parts are stamped!!! LOL

my pro kit is this:

http://bp2.blogger.com/_djcjIe7-k2k/...+Build+022.jpg
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:23 PM   #4389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Well I recieved my kit 2 days ago. I have spent the last two nights putting it together. I hate to say it but I am not impressed. This is a G4 E-Class kit. Should I have just got the G4S kit?
G4-Eclass was early edition G4. Not quite at the beginning but not far off. It was before the G4-Evo. I think the e-class didn't even have carbo radio tray. I know it didn't have the S-Class gears like the G4-Evo/Mongoose.

If you are new to racing or just bashing in a parking lot then the e-class could be sufficient. If you were looking to run near the front of the pack then a G4S would have been a better option.

The shocks on the e-class are not hard coated like the G4S as well as numerous other differences. It can be upgraded to an S over time but cost wise it would be cheaper with a new kit.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:36 PM   #4390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey All,

quick question, in regards to laying down the shocks on the front, what does this do? i did mine last night and noticed its a bit softer on the front!!

Also, will this give me more turn into corner and better grip?.............
Shock Mount Positions

Moving the bottom of the shock along the suspension arm basically affects the stiffness and droop of the suspension. Moving the shock mount further out results in a suspension that appears both stiffer (sprung) and harder (dampened). Conversely, moving the shock inward gives a softer feel.
The reason for this is simple. The easiest way to explain this is to think back to the playground seesaw of your childhood. When the people on either end donít weigh the same, by simply moving the heavier person closer to the center the seesaw can be made to balance. Itís just a question of leverage. As the shock moves out along the arm, it can bring greater leverage to bear on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shock along the arm also affects the suspension droop further out equals less droop, further in equals more droop.

Moving the top of the shock absorber has a more subtle effect on the carís suspension. What is changing here is the angle of action of the shock absorber. Changing the angle makes the shock absorber more or less progressive. A progressive suspension setup is when the suspension
becomes stiffer as the shock/spring/suspension is compressed.

Leaning the shock absorber over further results in a more progressive suspension. This is useful in landing off jumps (helps stop the car from bottoming out), handling on smooth tracks, and handling in high-speed corners.

Standing the shocks straighter helps in rough conditions, or with tracks with lots of quick changes of direction. Adding interest to this setup option is the fact that standing the shocks up gives some degree of anti-roll effect while laying the shocks down encourages, or allows, more chassis roll. The shock angle you choose can thus be closely related to the use of an anti-roll bar.

AFM
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:40 PM   #4391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Shock Mount Positions

Moving the bottom of the shock along the suspension arm basically affects the stiffness and droop of the suspension. Moving the shock mount further out results in a suspension that appears both stiffer (sprung) and harder (dampened). Conversely, moving the shock inward gives a softer feel.
The reason for this is simple. The easiest way to explain this is to think back to the playground seesaw of your childhood. When the people on either end donít weigh the same, by simply moving the heavier person closer to the center the seesaw can be made to balance. Itís just a question of leverage. As the shock moves out along the arm, it can bring greater leverage to bear on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shock along the arm also affects the suspension droop further out equals less droop, further in equals more droop.

Moving the top of the shock absorber has a more subtle effect on the carís suspension. What is changing here is the angle of action of the shock absorber. Changing the angle makes the shock absorber more or less progressive. A progressive suspension setup is when the suspension
becomes stiffer as the shock/spring/suspension is compressed.

Leaning the shock absorber over further results in a more progressive suspension. This is useful in landing off jumps (helps stop the car from bottoming out), handling on smooth tracks, and handling in high-speed corners.

Standing the shocks straighter helps in rough conditions, or with tracks with lots of quick changes of direction. Adding interest to this setup option is the fact that standing the shocks up gives some degree of anti-roll effect while laying the shocks down encourages, or allows, more chassis roll. The shock angle you choose can thus be closely related to the use of an anti-roll bar.

AFM

cool i am trying the laid down front socks tomorrow so will post back later date on how it handles!!

cheers again AFM
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:41 PM   #4392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gascar 24
hey guys heres some pics of the mugen shockends and steering links, all with mugen flanged balls and long grubs screws except i put button screws though the top of steering bell
those little sucker wont come out this race meet

paul
Great hop up, but you missed one important point to change to this Mugen flanged ball and links...do it on the rear camber link attachement....it smoothes the suspension soooo much, and it makes it easer to change set-up position than with those damn ball ends...

AFM
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:45 PM   #4393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, I gotcha bro! I totally understand what you mean by a strong plastic. I appologize for misunderstanding the part that you stripped. Just wanted to clarify to everyone how important good tools are. And you already know! SWEET! I am glad you pointed out you issue too, i'll have to keep an eye on that one. Anyway, I haven't ran into any issues with the tough plastic on our G4S yet, but have with other vehicles. I would by a tap for these situations because it's amazing how strong some of this plastic can get. No tools or lube or whatever could prevent you from stripping something. I want to say it was on the Team Associated or Team Losi something or other. I have too many vehicles to remember them all. Unless of coarse I raced with them.

No, I haven't tried the Losi tools, pretty sweet huh? They look killer! Plus I have never had to grind back any of my tools, but there are so many different alloys used these days. I would prefer a little forgiveness then breaking a tool. I have only really broke the Hudy's when missused and in a hurry. Like panic fix in the pits. and it's only been the super small tips. Yes...these are straight up DUMBASS no-no's. That's why I will stock up on certain tips because I know it will happen again. I know everyone here knows what I am talking about. In your mind you say "dude, I shouldn't do this" then all the sudden...SNAP!! Well, maybe I am the only one, but everyone know me enough be now that I can be a bit hard headed. See, I'm even hard headed against myself!

I hope you found a replacement. I know that there are a LOT of pillow balls (pivot balls) have the same size "ball", but just be a little longer or shorter then the next one. So I hope you get squared away to race bro!!! I'm sure everything will be cool. Oh yeah, I think you did mention that you had something that would work from an old car or something. Sorry all, I have this crap ass cold and am very spacey. So if this post makes no sence, please disregard all of it. Plus if I upset anyone please disregard it all also. Take care bro. Later
hahaha its all good man but geeee ur posts are long but always give me somthing interesting to read but all good keep em coming the losi drivers are freakin awesome they are titanium coated ive been told and the look "quote frankie KILLA"
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:26 PM   #4394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Great hop up, but you missed one important point to change to this Mugen flanged ball and links...do it on the rear camber link attachement....it smoothes the suspension soooo much, and it makes it easer to change set-up position than with those damn ball ends...

AFM
hi afm
i love your tips they are so easy to understand
man u sould write an e-book man
i print all the post u put up and keep them in my folder for later

as for the rear camber link i will be doing that to but go some wrong flanged balls they have no hex so the guy is sending me more and i will drill out the link as its bit small and will do that next week

was going to ask u what happens to your droop settings as tyres get smaller and u change the shocks to keep the ride height good

paul
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:27 PM   #4395
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Hi guys, i order my ed transmission and a couple of other things from Sam at racedayhobbies and i have a couple of question see if yall can help me.What pinion and spur combo yall using im not racing at a track i just want to know whats a good starting point and what tool yal use to setup your drop height ?
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