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Old 02-20-2007, 07:27 PM   #4261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Not to change the subject but, I had asked before about the differences between the G4 and G4S models. Can any one explain? Is there a real performance benefit in upgrading to the "S" model? How bout durablitiy? I had heard some issues with the old G4 steering rack.
Thanks in advance.
Fred, details of the changes between the G4 and the G4S are noted in the very first post of this thread.

I ran both the G4 and now the G4S and I can tell you the car is much more balanced in G4S form and the UFO clutch that is standard on the G4S is well worth it as well.

You can also buy an upgrade kit from the G4 to the G4S but this doesn't include the UFO clutch.
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:41 PM   #4262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Fred, details of the changes between the G4 and the G4S are noted in the very first post of this thread.

I ran both the G4 and now the G4S and I can tell you the car is much more balanced in G4S form and the UFO clutch that is standard on the G4S is well worth it as well.

You can also buy an upgrade kit from the G4 to the G4S but this doesn't include the UFO clutch.
Thanks for the info I will go back and read.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:05 PM   #4263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
no, you are wrong..

Clutch Gap:
Clutch gap is the amount that the clutch shoe moves before it contacts the clutch housing; this affects the WAY that the clutch engages more so than WHEN it engages.

Clutch gap is the FIRST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and is done with the bearings NOT installed. For more information, refer to your Serpent car or clutch manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust clutch gap by placing shims (medium size) on the thrustbearing holder, in front of the thrustbearing assembly.


End Play:
Clutch housing end play is the amount that the clutch housing moves along the crankshaft. End play is the LAST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and this is done with the clutch fully assembled with all bearings. For more information, refer to your Serpent car manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust end play by placing shims (small size) in front of the clutchnut that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft.
When properly shimmed, there should be approximatley 0.2~0.3mm of end play (axial play).


http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_2.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_3.html
This is great info but still find the following link to straight forward and to teh point.http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
Id suggest printing it and putting it in your race bag.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:42 PM   #4264
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You had it back to front, so you are incorrect.


Little ZOOM grasshopper.

It is better to say nothing and look silly….
…..then to open your mouth and remove all doubts


Sorry G4S drivers, I drive a Mugen. I'll go back to Mugen thread now. I do race at the same club ZOOM does. That's if you call my driving style racing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
You can say I'm wrong but what you just posted is a more detailed version of what I said.

Yes, you set the total gap without the inner bearing installed ( I posted about this many moons ago), and then shim the inner bearing so there is <insert your preference for end play here>. You can also do this another way, by installing the inner bearing and it's shims and the clutch bell to see the gap and then shim the front side to get the end play you want. It's more accurately measured when doing it with the front bearing and thrust assemble though because you can use your calipers to measure it.

I personally like my end play to be about .1mm, however I can see the advantage of maybe having .2mm after my engine stalled last weekend due to some grit getting into the thrust bearing area.
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:12 AM   #4265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
You can run the brake linkage straight without any bends and then you can use the pinion (I just use a collar on mine, still easy enough to turn). The only limitation versus the method you and razzor are trying to do is it has a limited amount of adjustment. The one you guys are looking at will give you more adjustment should it be needed. I'm like patto in that I don't run drag brake at all with the one way. I tried it for a while but for me, I could run faster without it.

I think the Helios setup described by casimirsa is very popular. I run the Helios with the spektrum pro and the drop down wheel and it's excellent.
Dude, thanks for the input bro. I shall go ahead and give your way a shot then. And as far as the amount of adjustment, I think this should be plenty for me. I usually only need 1 thread in or out depending on traction and all. So dude I appreciate the post big time. You don't have any binding problem I assume (otherwise you wouldn't run it tis way) Dude, COOL!!! This has ben on my mind all day as I had an overkill day at work. Owning my own business if great and all, but some of those 16 hour days can bum you out when you want to play with the car.

My first race is in 2 weeks, OMG!! So dude, I may need to pik your brain and everyone else on here, because as you mentioned in the past, I have only bench raced my G4S. This is why I am trying to get this puppy ready for the first race on March 4th.

So Zoom or ??? I have my car set up to run the front diff. Would you recommend this as a starting point or spool or oneway? We have a different lay out every race. Some fast and flowing, some tight and technical and everything in between. Since I have always run 1:8 th scale I never had these options. They as you know have a solid rear axle and oneways up front. Traction is always good to very good. Not sure about track surface this year because of our new location that I have never seen. Any tips for a starting point will be great. My car for the most part is "loaded" other then the rear hub carriers. You know, the new ones to adjust roll center. I plan on ordering those soon though. Thanks all for your input.

Also, thans for letting me know about the Helios. ZOOM, dude it actually seems we have more in common then what I thought! Very cool dude. I would love to have your radio set up. I think I might play with M11 a bit more, but really want what you have. All those fast dude's I told you about, at least at my track use the Helios or JR??? These guys are great!!! they actually run the race program for us all. They were at the Winter Nats for 1:8 scale open and both ended up in the top 15. well Sal Defazio was running about 13th and Robert Ronas around 15 or so.They are the ALL OUT sonsored drivers I have the pleasure to run with. When I start to keep up with those guys, I know that's when I'm doing good. Sorry to ramble on all. I appreciate all that you guys have been doing on the forum lately to help me out. Peace bro!!!!
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:17 AM   #4266
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Hey guys, I have more to post, but my late nights are catching up to me.
(that smiley is yawning)

Frankie, I might be on a little later my friend. Work drained my soul today bro. I'm am VERY pleased about your new arrival!!!!!!!! (About time, that damn pilot). I will be back on in an hour or so to talk about it! Look for me. I hope you are happy with that little sucker!!! Peace my friend and I hope to talk to you VERY soon!!!! LATER!
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:19 AM   #4267
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Serpentd, with out seeing your track its hard to comment.
But if its a fast flowing track with out hairpins id say spool is a option other wise diff up front for sure.Diff setup we have found 50k front and 30k rear to be a good starting point.
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:30 AM   #4268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz
Sorry G4S drivers, I drive a Mugen. I'll go back to Mugen thread now. I do race at the same club ZOOM does. That's if you call my driving style racing.
Seems we are attracting the Likes of MUGEN drivers into our thread !
seems he is interested in our little car that seems to be so threatening to the likes of a MUGEN driver
but all interests are good interests, and makes for some good lite hearted reading. now on your way el President'e
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:56 AM   #4269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz
You had it back to front, so you are incorrect.


Little ZOOM grasshopper.

It is better to say nothing and look silly….
…..then to open your mouth and remove all doubts


Sorry G4S drivers, I drive a Mugen. I'll go back to Mugen thread now. I do race at the same club ZOOM does. That's if you call my driving style racing.
It's not back to front, you're not thinking outside the dots!

Boz, I'll be happy to show you how my comments are still correct at the next club meeting (well the next round day anyway since I won't be at the cup day) .

Did you even read the PM I sent you, little Boz cricket?
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:03 AM   #4270
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D'oh!!! Now that I re-read my post after I quoted Boz, I can see I had a typo in there! So yes, you're right, it would have sounded wrong!!! I have highlited the typo in red.

Don't worry Boz, we can still get you a G4S any time you like. You could always run mine for the upcoming cup day if you're up to the challenge?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
You can say I'm wrong but what you just posted is a more detailed version of what I said.

Yes, you set the total gap without the inner bearing installed ( I posted about this many moons ago), and then shim the inner bearing so there is <insert your preference for end play here>. You can also do this another way, by installing the inner bearing and it's shims and the clutch bell to see the gap and then shim the front side to get the end play you want. It's more accurately measured when doing it with the front bearing and thrust assemble though because you can use your calipers to measure it.

I personally like my end play to be about .1mm, however I can see the advantage of maybe having .2mm after my engine stalled last weekend due to some grit getting into the thrust bearing area.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:04 AM   #4271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Seems we are attracting the Likes of MUGEN drivers into our thread !
seems he is interested in our little car that seems to be so threatening to the likes of a MUGEN driver
but all interests are good interests, and makes for some good lite hearted reading. now on your way el President'e

No way, stop starting rumors. I just lost my way around this site and I like the look of all the G4S Avatar's. They are Cool.

Now I'm going to borrow a MTX3 and lap you. Not just in the race, but one in the warm up too.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:10 AM   #4272
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Hey Guys,

I just fitted the new Speedshot front end.......... I love it. Especially the top of the steering column has a place to seat now

Almost ready to get this championship winner (cough.... ) up and out for practice.

Anyone know of any good weather dances?

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Old 02-21-2007, 01:11 AM   #4273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz
No way, stop starting rumors. I just lost my way around this site and I like the look of all the G4S Avatar's. They are Cool.

Now I'm going to borrow a MTX3 and lap you. Not just in the race, but one in the warm up too.
well id have to agree with you, you would lap me. i dont state i am better than another, but just am loving what we do on every second sunday, RACING ! just love it and yeah, bring an mtx3 and do some laps. but do keep the mtx-4 ready as you might need it
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:15 AM   #4274
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Hey Patto,

Do you run with the new Flash Point rear?
Have you noticed much of a difference?
You may have already mentioned this on the thread.......guess I missed it.

Just wondered what to expect...

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Old 02-21-2007, 01:24 AM   #4275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey Patto,

Do you run with the new Flash Point rear?
Have you noticed much of a difference?
You may have already mentioned this on the thread.......guess I missed it.

Just wondered what to expect...

Menace
i do use the new type rear flash quick release hubs. but i do use the insert to use the std drive shafts. the difference has been huge with the std setup with the 2 shims used on the top upper link to the hub. i have has to drop my camber by 1.5deg at rear as the setting has more camber rise when suspension is compressed. but the rear seems hard to step out unless im on a fresh set of foams or really too agressive on the throttle. others might disagree of the grip gain , but i have used it and has helped alot. as i am now searching for more steering. will try a spring change next round. but they look better than the std hubs and are flat on the bottom so droop is more easily read. so do get yourself some Menace, youll love em. more bling to add for the speed shot front end
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