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Old 02-20-2007, 01:21 PM   #4246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, I have never heard of radio adjustments causing glitches on any type of radio. Dude, that just sucks. I have an M11, but want to get the Helios I think. Just let me know what radio you have so I don't end up with that one bro.
I am running a Helios with spektrum module! The best buy i ever made!

only thing i changed was to put the dropdown adapter on the wheel. Makes the radio much more balanced and both your hands are at the same line.

it rocks!

PS: i have never used expo so far and can't see the need! You must drive the car not the radio!
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:26 PM   #4247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa
I am running a Helios with spektrum module! The best buy i ever made!

only thing i changed was to put the dropdown adapter on the wheel. Makes the radio much more balanced and both your hands are at the same line.

it rocks!
Dude, that's why I stuck with the Airtronics (Sanwa). because your hands are on the same line, but it is on the heavy side. I actually like my M8 still better then the M11. And an M8 with Lipo, WOW...feels like a feather in your hand. Your set up is EXACTLY what I would like to try out. Thanks for the post bro.
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:32 PM   #4248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, that's why I stuck with the Airtronics (Sanwa). because your hands are on the same line, but it is on the heavy side. I actually like my M8 still better then the M11. And an M8 with Lipo, WOW...feels like a feather in your hand. Your set up is EXACTLY what I would like to try out. Thanks for the post bro.

Pleasure!
The Helios is like a feather against the other radios and also light on batteries. Three race meetings of 1/10 & 1/8 and no need to recharge the 2500 NiMh
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:37 PM   #4249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Some have mentioned that they adjust their drag brake with the radio. I will only do this if I have to in the middle of a race. If you adjust your trim towards the brake side, pay attention to what it does on the throttle side. It starts to leave a gap and will give you a dead spot on throttle. This is why I try to avoid that.
Hey D, i have 2 sliding switches on my radio, this is what i use to adjust my brake in a race amd steering if needed. if i set my servo throw (EPA) for steering and throttle to 100, then these 2 switches i can change the EPA on the run. say i start with my brake max throw to 60 and it has drag, then when it fades in a race,this switch can give me more or less throw on the brake side. same as for steering, more or less steering throw. we are not adjusting the actual trim, which will give you more dead spot as you mentioned. just had to clear this up dude that dead spot as you mentioned is also the function i use on my radio, i set quite a large gap on my trim just to be sure the carb will always return to idle and have some pressure on the spring. the throttle dead band is what i use, the lightest touch on the throttle and my servo takes up that large gap instantly, just the way i work my radio guys. cheers.
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:08 PM   #4250
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I take it that by "drag brake" it means that when you shut off the throttle, the brakes are automatically applied to some degree. Do most people use this setting? Any tips on how much brake should be applied as a starting point?
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:15 PM   #4251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
I take it that by "drag brake" it means that when you shut off the throttle, the brakes are automatically applied to some degree. Do most people use this setting? Any tips on how much brake should be applied as a starting point?
I started out with drag brake, but then took it of and never looked back!

It is something to get use to, but having control over my cars braking is the best thing I ever could do!

I also set my cars brakes and EPA that the brakes never lock. Therefore if you go full brakes there is no wheels that locks! Works for me!
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:16 PM   #4252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
I take it that by "drag brake" it means that when you shut off the throttle, the brakes are automatically applied to some degree. Do most people use this setting? Any tips on how much brake should be applied as a starting point?
sorry man, bit of confusion here. i never run brake drag, the car should be easy puched with the radio on and trims nornally set. the drag i mean, is i use a one way front axle, when i apply the brakes fully, i dont want my car to lock up the rears, so i call it drag, full brakes and the brakes only drag to slow the car not to lock up, never got used to doing hand brakies in a real car but this is what its like when runing a one way front axle. so this is the drag i mean. sorry for my confusion on this.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:05 PM   #4253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Hey D, i have 2 sliding switches on my radio, this is what i use to adjust my brake in a race amd steering if needed. if i set my servo throw (EPA) for steering and throttle to 100, then these 2 switches i can change the EPA on the run. say i start with my brake max throw to 60 and it has drag, then when it fades in a race,this switch can give me more or less throw on the brake side. same as for steering, more or less steering throw. we are not adjusting the actual trim, which will give you more dead spot as you mentioned. just had to clear this up dude that dead spot as you mentioned is also the function i use on my radio, i set quite a large gap on my trim just to be sure the carb will always return to idle and have some pressure on the spring. the throttle dead band is what i use, the lightest touch on the throttle and my servo takes up that large gap instantly, just the way i work my radio guys. cheers.
I'm sort of following you here bro. I'm a bit out of it at the moment so will re-read later. As far as my Drag brake I have learned to rely on is very minimal. I set it all up and with the engine off and radio on, i push my car on the ground and check the distance travelled and steering trim. I use drag brake to just barely slow my car down. After and hour main if won't even experience any fade. So it's not much. You have to let go of the trigger entirely to have this kickin on my car. If you barely touch the trigger then no brakes at all, my +50 throttle expo helps with this. I like the brake drag for the main reason of a tighter initial turn in on tight corners. I don't really use it to slow down the car down persay. Make sence? It's actually a great tuning tool for some people as myself. I can rely on the drag brake to make me more consitant on most if not all tracks. I have always used it.

But I suggest if you want to try it out, then start out with very minimal amount. Depends how hard and fast you want to try and enter some of the sharper turns. It worth trying out is all I can say. But definitley not for everyone. Good luck guys and thanks TONS for all the positive feedback!!!

Did I mention that you ALL totaly ROCK!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:02 PM   #4254
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You can run the brake linkage straight without any bends and then you can use the pinion (I just use a collar on mine, still easy enough to turn). The only limitation versus the method you and razzor are trying to do is it has a limited amount of adjustment. The one you guys are looking at will give you more adjustment should it be needed. I'm like patto in that I don't run drag brake at all with the one way. I tried it for a while but for me, I could run faster without it.

I think the Helios setup described by casimirsa is very popular. I run the Helios with the spektrum pro and the drop down wheel and it's excellent.
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:49 PM   #4255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
The shims between the thrust bearing and the collet is the end play.

The shims between the clutch nut and the inner bearing sets the clutch gap.
hmm im still a bit confuse on how to set end play, clutch gap etc.
can you explain step by step on how you setup your clutch please?
thank you
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:54 PM   #4256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
The shims between the thrust bearing and the collet is the end play.

The shims between the clutch nut and the inner bearing sets the clutch gap.
no, you are wrong..

Clutch Gap:
Clutch gap is the amount that the clutch shoe moves before it contacts the clutch housing; this affects the WAY that the clutch engages more so than WHEN it engages.

Clutch gap is the FIRST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and is done with the bearings NOT installed. For more information, refer to your Serpent car or clutch manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust clutch gap by placing shims (medium size) on the thrustbearing holder, in front of the thrustbearing assembly.


End Play:
Clutch housing end play is the amount that the clutch housing moves along the crankshaft. End play is the LAST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and this is done with the clutch fully assembled with all bearings. For more information, refer to your Serpent car manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust end play by placing shims (small size) in front of the clutchnut that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft.
When properly shimmed, there should be approximatley 0.2~0.3mm of end play (axial play).


http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_2.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_3.html
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:11 PM   #4257
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You can say I'm wrong but what you just posted is a more detailed version of what I said.

Yes, you set the total gap without the inner bearing installed ( I posted about this many moons ago), and then shim the inner bearing so there is <insert your preference for end play here>. You can also do this another way, by installing the inner bearing and it's shims and the clutch bell to see the gap and then shim the front side to get the end play you want. It's more accurately measured when doing it with the front bearing and thrust assemble though because you can use your calipers to measure it.

I personally like my end play to be about .1mm, however I can see the advantage of maybe having .2mm after my engine stalled last weekend due to some grit getting into the thrust bearing area.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:16 PM   #4258
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Not to change the subject but, I had asked before about the differences between the G4 and G4S models. Can any one explain? Is there a real performance benefit in upgrading to the "S" model? How bout durablitiy? I had heard some issues with the old G4 steering rack.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:28 PM   #4259
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Where do shocks with 1.2mm holes and 30wt rate dampening wise compared to 1.3mm and 60wt? I've been running the 1.2/30wt since purchasing my G4S last fall.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:41 PM   #4260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
no, you are wrong..

Clutch Gap:
Clutch gap is the amount that the clutch shoe moves before it contacts the clutch housing; this affects the WAY that the clutch engages more so than WHEN it engages.

Clutch gap is the FIRST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and is done with the bearings NOT installed. For more information, refer to your Serpent car or clutch manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust clutch gap by placing shims (medium size) on the thrustbearing holder, in front of the thrustbearing assembly.


End Play:
Clutch housing end play is the amount that the clutch housing moves along the crankshaft. End play is the LAST thing you should adjust on the Centax clutch, and this is done with the clutch fully assembled with all bearings. For more information, refer to your Serpent car manual or the appropriate i-manual at www.myTSN.com.

You adjust end play by placing shims (small size) in front of the clutchnut that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft.
When properly shimmed, there should be approximatley 0.2~0.3mm of end play (axial play).


http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_2.html
http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch_3.html

oi Gansei Master - thats the best Tech Tip on clutches i have seen so far CHEERS!
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