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Old 02-19-2007, 05:30 PM   #4186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Not to say any ones ideas are bad but, it is almost impossible to get the shocks rebound perfect. I prefer to use foam or O-Rings above the bladder for rebound.
Yes totally agreed....but I forgot to mention that I allways use the foam inserts above the bladders to at least have a more consistant rebound, avoiding the bladders to flatten.....another "must" is to get rid of the original rubber bladders (worst bladders I've ever seen) that come with the G4 and put the new blue silicone ones + XRAY foam inserts.

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Old 02-19-2007, 05:40 PM   #4187
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Default Diff setup

i wonder if front diff oil softer than rear diff. what situation occurred?

ex) front diff 30000, rear diff 50000.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:47 PM   #4188
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About the sock rebound, its caused by the "pack" effect, or am I very wrong ? You push the shaft, the oil "runs" thruw the holes, but there is compressed oil that still need to run to the other "side", even if the shaft stoped its travel. So, this compressed oil will push the piston back. Thus, rebound.
It's about the shaft speed, hole diameters and viscosity for the oil. If you don't have rebound, you actually have a sock that don't completely(SP?) do it's job.
Well, I think I did not make any sense...
But when I have more time, and my bookmarks, I will try harder to explain, using the help of a site I read some time ago.

Laterz fellas.
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:55 PM   #4189
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Default Clutch question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
That is exactly right. That will keep your end play as you had it. It will however change the clutch gap as the end bell would be now 1 shim further away from the clutch pad.

Cheers,

Mike.
Say i wanted to increase or decrease my clutch gap do i add and remove shims or do i adjust the clutch nut? or should the clutch nut always be set to 0.5mm?

thanks for the help
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:36 PM   #4190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
If we were meant to use the same techniques as 10 years ago, we would still be running 1/8th 2wd pan cars. Live and learn I guess.
Dude, technique and popularity of a vehicle are two different things. The shocks are almost identical to my Serpent shocks of 10 years ago. And as for a 2WD, only the exceptional driver could go fast with these. Where as the 4wd, everyone can go fast easier. Too bad too because the 2wd was a true racers car. Took tons of talent and finesse to be fast. Those were the original F1 cars of RC. Miss that challange. Though I would go for 1:8 scale 4wd still because there is nothing faster in RC onroad period.

I posted 3 pics of the 10 years of evolution of the 10th scale shock. My !0 year old Serpent next to our G4S. Now I wonder what the true difference is here? HMMMM???? Maybe some things don't change that much?
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Team Magic G4-shocks-007.jpg   Team Magic G4-shocks-011.jpg   Team Magic G4-shocks-013.jpg  
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:49 PM   #4191
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anybody using that new Speed Shot Front Bulkhead system
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:51 PM   #4192
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I spoke about technique and you show me materials

I think I was right before - Serpentd will always know more than me because he 'hung around' with fast drivers.

Common sense suggests results will beat theory any day but then that assumes there is common sense. That shouldn't get in the way belittling others or advising the newbies. More than one person here has contradicted themselves when faced with mounting evidence that they don't know everything.

At no time did I suggest your way was wrong, just the there is obviously another way that works - as it turns out, it's still nonsense.

That's the last I will comment and I will be keeping my 100% wrong ideas to myself in future.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:53 PM   #4193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast
Say i wanted to increase or decrease my clutch gap do i add and remove shims or do i adjust the clutch nut? or should the clutch nut always be set to 0.5mm?

thanks for the help
Bro, clutch gap is changed by adding or removing the shims between the clutch nut and the inner clutch bell bearing. Should be about .4-.7mm gap.

The clutch nut determines when your clutch will engage. If you tighten it then it will engage later. If you loosen it then it will engage sooner. So, no your clutch nut will not always remain at .5mm. Clutch spring selection can alter this for example. .5mm or say 1 thread showing is a good starting point. Ask away if you have problems, because a good clutch set up is imperative! Good luck.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:56 PM   #4194
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Anybody using that new Speed Shot Front Bulkhead system
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:22 PM   #4195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
I spoke about technique and you show me materials

I think I was right before - Serpentd will always know more than me because he 'hung around' with fast drivers.

Common sense suggests results will beat theory any day but then that assumes there is common sense. That shouldn't get in the way belittling others or advising the newbies. More than one person here has contradicted themselves when faced with mounting evidence that they don't know everything.

At no time did I suggest your way was wrong, just the there is obviously another way that works - as it turns out, it's still nonsense.

That's the last I will comment and I will be keeping my 100% wrong ideas to myself in future.
Dude, I agree this is over kill. I was trying to point out that nothing in the shock catagory has changed in ten years. Not everyone on here has probably seen an old Serpent shock. This was the purpose of the post. I already admitted that you were RIGHT about rebound. It's just not for me. Others can decide whether it's right for them.

Hell, I was even the one explaing how to change rebound equally on all 4 shocks if you wanted to try it since consistancy is so important for shocks IMO.

Dude, I don't know why you can dish it out, but can't handle a response. I am just backing up where I am coming from. Nothing more. I post for all to see, not directly to you Mr. ZOOM. I get confused on why you take things SOOOOO personal. I've told you more then once not to. I'm not bashing you bro. You would know if I was, and trust me I am not, nor do I want to. A little history of RC isn't going to hurt anything. So we can get along or not. I promise to watch how I say things, to avoid upsetting you. I can trully get along with anyone, we just hit a wall together bro is all. I am willing to move forward if you are. No hard feelings? None here. I hope you reconsider your posting.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:43 PM   #4196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
i wonder if front diff oil softer than rear diff. what situation occurred?

ex) front diff 30000, rear diff 50000.
That would be extremely difficult to drive when powering out of the corners.

That makes the car turn extremely aggresive on power...
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:54 PM   #4197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx
That would be extremely difficult to drive when powering out of the corners.

That makes the car turn extremely aggresive on power...
Dude, I agree. I think you would have a major oversteer situation. I don't know though. Go try it out and find out what the results are. Give it a shot. Just for fun!
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:26 PM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, I agree. I think you would have a major oversteer situation. I don't know though. Go try it out and find out what the results are. Give it a shot. Just for fun!

my diff setup is front 50000 and rear 40000.
last weekend i rebuilded rear diff for exchange diff cup.
But Front diff(50000) is builded too long.. so it was very soften. (maybe long time diff using caues oil leak)
when i turned front diff by hands.. it like feel 30000. and feel more soft than rear.

and in that setting.. i run G4S in circuit.
i feel.. rather understeer in corner-in, and rather unstable in corner-out.

you can see my G4S activity in "http://tvpot.daum.net/clip/ClipViewB...d=03rbrp7ZcKg$"
the yellow car is mine.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:32 PM   #4199
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Hi guys.. This is one of the best forums for a Team Magic G4 newbee.. I've learnt lots of things in here.. I was told before that there must not be any rebound on th shock shaft but I corrected myself now. Thank you ZOOM and SerpentD and all others.. You're so helpful.. Just take a look at other forums (Serpent 710, Serpent720, etc..) G4S forum is more active.. As a former Serpent owner, yes I've learnt lots of things from these forums but here there is a more friendly and warm interaction

Thank you guys.. Keep it up..

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Old 02-20-2007, 12:01 AM   #4200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
my diff setup is front 50000 and rear 40000.
last weekend i rebuilded rear diff for exchange diff cup.
But Front diff(50000) is builded too long.. so it was very soften. (maybe long time diff using caues oil leak)
when i turned front diff by hands.. it like feel 30000. and feel more soft than rear.

and in that setting.. i run G4S in circuit.
i feel.. rather understeer in corner-in, and rather unstable in corner-out.

you can see my G4S activity in "http://tvpot.daum.net/clip/ClipViewB...d=03rbrp7ZcKg$"
the yellow car is mine.
My friend, all I can say it that does not look like your car or driving that we all know of from your past videos. I mean, your always have your car running really good for set up. Did you change anything major recently? I think you should go back to your original set up and start form scratch. Put in new fluids in Front diff, maybe shocks and all. Start with a good basic setting and go from there.

Did you happen to run different tires shores or maybe a different tire split? Your car looked very difficult to drive? You don't have any damage to anything do you?? If you can't figure it out, I would go throug the entire car and double check everything. Make sure you have a good solid setup, because something looks way off for you Gensei. Keep us all posted and good luck!
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