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Old 02-13-2007, 07:44 PM   #3976
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
this sounds like a great tip, would be so kindly to show us pics if you got the time,

Cheers
Thats a great idea.. I will also do this with my off-road cars because the drives always go bad. Great tip
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Old 02-13-2007, 11:35 PM   #3977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
this sounds like a great tip, would be so kindly to show us pics if you got the time,

Cheers
Frankie my friend, Here are some Pics for everyone to see what he is talking about. I use to have to do this on the OLD MIP CVD's to prevent wear and to keep that little pin from flying out on the RC10 GT. I showed a few different types of grease you can use in the photos but you can use stuff like U-joint grease or hitch ball lube for the hitch on your truck and trailer. Oviously the grease goes inside the heat shrink (I used a white one to see it better). Another thing that works is something called "Chain Wax". If you ever raced morocross or ATV's you'll know what I mean. You can find it at bicycle shops or MX shops. You don't need the shrink tube for the wax stuff. It is designed for MX chains so the lube can't "fling" off. Hope this makes sence guys.

Frankie...BROOOOOO!!!! Dude, guess what will be at your front door in about a week my friend . Sorry I didn't have time to chat tonight, busy busy. I'll email you later my friend. Talk with you soon! Later!
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Team Magic G4-outdrive-grease-002.jpg   Team Magic G4-outdrive-grease-004.jpg  
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:24 AM   #3978
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Great tip Serpentd ,we can use chain wax .
Ive got some Finish Line products ,so will give it a try.
Nice thing about chain wax it doesnt attract dirt like grease.
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:25 AM   #3979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Great tip Serpentd ,we can use chain wax .
Ive got some Finish Line products ,so will give it a try.
Nice thing about chain wax it doesnt attract dirt like grease.
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:54 AM   #3980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Frankie my friend, Here are some Pics for everyone to see what he is talking about. I use to have to do this on the OLD MIP CVD's to prevent wear and to keep that little pin from flying out on the RC10 GT. I showed a few different types of grease you can use in the photos but you can use stuff like U-joint grease or hitch ball lube for the hitch on your truck and trailer. Oviously the grease goes inside the heat shrink (I used a white one to see it better). Another thing that works is something called "Chain Wax". If you ever raced morocross or ATV's you'll know what I mean. You can find it at bicycle shops or MX shops. You don't need the shrink tube for the wax stuff. It is designed for MX chains so the lube can't "fling" off. Hope this makes sence guys.

Frankie...BROOOOOO!!!! Dude, guess what will be at your front door in about a week my friend . Sorry I didn't have time to chat tonight, busy busy. I'll email you later my friend. Talk with you soon! Later!

Excelent, more kool mods to my beast Cheers Mr SD - a week Whoo Hoo, awesome man cant wait to get it all going again!

BTW, i also have on order the following:

1 x ED K-Factory Trans
1 x K-Factory Speed Shot Front Bulk Head

I think will all these new mods + new engine = FAASSSSST

Once again, BIG Ups for the help OUT! Bloody Legend "O yeah i sent you an email Bro!!!

Peace Out man!
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:40 AM   #3981
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So far looks like the guys are battling to find pace at the Winternats.
Bobby Flack is only G4S guy on a 21 lapper this after 2 rounds
But its still early days ,so got my fingers crossed for them.
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:06 AM   #3982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
So far looks like the guys are battling to find pace at the Winternats.
Bobby Flack is only G4S guy on a 21 lapper this after 2 rounds
But its still early days ,so got my fingers crossed for them.
Hey razzor, is there a web site link for results or live heats ? cheers.

Hey D, what a wonderfull thing you have done. man you have my respect as always and now Frankie as well. need new Name, Serpant L (Legend)
chat soon D.
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:23 AM   #3983
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Hey D, what a wonderfull thing you have done. man you have my respect as always and now Frankie as well. need new Name, Serpant L (Legend)
chat soon D.

hmmm did i miss a post or sumfin.
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:52 AM   #3984
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Great tip for the out drive cover guys
I believe that this wearing problem of this area is a common issue with most cars running big power, or just in general.
With the heat shrink cover and grease to lubricate the dog bone, the car will roll much smoother as well!
Don't forget that there is more chance of NOT loosing the dog bone in the event of a crash too!
Saves you money 2 ways!!!
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:04 AM   #3985
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Originally Posted by MaDaGAS CAR
hmmm did i miss a post or sumfin.
umm no i dont think so. but as long as the 3 of us know then thats all that matters, has nothing to do with setup or anything. but beware Frankie will race again soon
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:12 AM   #3986
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have been ckecking thses links
http://www.winternats.com/
http://www.molzermoweryracing.com/winter2007_quals.html
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:49 AM   #3987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Thanks heaps Razzor, you da man !
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:54 AM   #3988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
umm no i dont think so. but as long as the 3 of us know then thats all that matters, has nothing to do with setup or anything. but beware Frankie will race again soon
OOOOOooooo secretive are we hmmm
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:39 AM   #3989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
see if you tell what was the cause of motor blown,
Here is my pennies worth!

On the foto's that you posted there in no sign of a hard impact on the pinions!

The only almost logic answer is that the rod went at the end of the main straight!

The fact that your car rolled could be that the drivetrain locked up due to the motor locking!

The rod looks like as if the crank still wanted to push the piston up, but the piston was "stuck" in the sleeve at a slight angle and that caused the rod to bend like that!

And with the clutch still engaged the energy of forward movement had to go somewhere and the "thin" part of the crank gave way an bend!

There is also signs that the motor was running at high tempratures!
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:38 AM   #3990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx
Try a very thick silicon oil in the rear diff...

30k, 40k, maybe even 50K!! Just keep the ront end thicker than the rear.

If you use 30k rear, then use at least 50k up front so your car does not oversteer severely. If you go up to 50k at the rear, use 70k at the front. Use this last option if nothing else works. You can reduce rear toe but that will decrease rear traction when off throttle as well. If you do not want to change rear grip, then only change the diff oil and leave the rest alone. A stiff rear diff does not cause problems off throttle.
which brand of diff oil u guys use?
i can only find serpent 50k and 30k diff oil, is it the same?
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