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Old 01-28-2007, 02:07 PM   #3646
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Thanks AFM for elaborating

You have a wealth of info ,why dont you compile a book or something ???
Ill be first inline for a copy !

"Knowledge is wealth"
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:00 PM   #3647
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Gascar24 G4S in action,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0kqtflA-cY


Enjoy
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:04 PM   #3648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Kodak my friend, here are a few pics of what I was trying to explain to you with the volt monitor and hair ties. I put the hair ties next to some smaller rubber bands to give you an idea of size along with the companys name to help you find these. Plus a pic of one installed on one of my engines. I found a few battery monitors after digging around some. The picture shows two different ones, these would plug into channel #3 or if you only have a 2 channel recevier, then you would need a "Y" splitter, Hope this helps some. Later bro!

now i gotcha, cheers for the pics, and "Patto" is an awesome help in the last month... I personally have got some awesome setups from him that has made my first debut success.... "Cheers Bud"

Serpentd, i really hope you get your out there, it is a an awesome car to drive!!!
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Old 01-28-2007, 04:12 PM   #3649
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Originally Posted by MaDaGAS CAR
i had ball today an learnt so much bout the car!! wat should i do to get the g4 to handel better wen the tyres are still new and tonnes of foam left on em got me stuffed
I have a similar problem - when the tyres are new the car is much harder to drive. As they wear during the day, handling improves a lot however, the early part of the day is frustrating.

Apart from reducing tyre size with a truer, does anyone have any setup tips they can share for new foams?
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Old 01-28-2007, 04:37 PM   #3650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
I have a similar problem - when the tyres are new the car is much harder to drive. As they wear during the day, handling improves a lot however, the early part of the day is frustrating.

Apart from reducing tyre size with a truer, does anyone have any setup tips they can share for new foams?
When the tires wear down it changes certain things in the car. Droop, ride height, etc. When the cars is good take it off the track and check those settings. then apply them with big tires. Just an idea.

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Old 01-28-2007, 04:41 PM   #3651
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You're better off cutting the foams down to match the car rather then the other way around.

You'd be changing your setup continously through the day as the tires got smaller. You'd end up needing a large tire setup, medium tire setup and small tire setup. Sounds like a lot of work

Large tires dont handle as well due to sidewall movement.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:44 PM   #3652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan
You're better off cutting the foams down to match the car rather then the other way around.

You'd be changing your setup continously through the day as the tires got smaller. You'd end up needing a large tire setup, medium tire setup and small tire setup. Sounds like a lot of work

Large tires dont handle as well due to sidewall movement.
I have found just over the weekend during testing that as tires do get to a nice low point the car improves on handling.... Thou i havent yet tried on a new set!

genrally 62-63mm starting dia would be a good base to be trued?
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:44 AM   #3653
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I find that cutting the tyres low is a waste of money (except at a big meet where everything counts). I find that rounding the edges of the tyres on the truer works well for big tyres and also using the lower roll center to best advantage can provide more grip. If you find the car is letting go late in the turn before the power is applied, it's because with the rear roll centre so low, the car almost falls over on itself. Just increase the stiffness of the rear swaybar to compensate. If the front swaybar is on full hardness, and you find the rear is too, it's a good sign that the front spring is too soft (assuming the tyres are the same shore all around).

P.S. I find this with the one way installed, not a spool or a diff.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:58 AM   #3654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
on the carb return spring/elastic band topic.A buddy says that the rubber bands used by dentists on braces works well and are fuel proof.Havent tried one ,looking into it though and will be going to check my dentist.
You'll need to be careful razzor, otherwise you may find yourself getting some fillings done and a tooth or 2 pulled
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Old 01-29-2007, 01:15 AM   #3655
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Dont worry I keep him at arms length when he has tools in hes hands

If the guys are trueing down tyres ,is there a sweet spot to true down too or is it just a matter of preference.Guidelines would be welcome for us slow learners
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Old 01-29-2007, 01:42 AM   #3656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
I have found just over the weekend during testing that as tires do get to a nice low point the car improves on handling.... Thou i havent yet tried on a new set!

genrally 62-63mm starting dia would be a good base to be trued?
at the aussie championships most of the guys would start at 62mm rear and 60mm fronts at our track as its tough on back tyres dude

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Old 01-29-2007, 03:21 AM   #3657
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Default Tire size and set-up

Hi All,

On the topic of tire sizes.
You have to be very careful when you true down tires and the adjustments you make on your car due to that.

Tire size: This CAN(?!) depend on track and conditions. On low to medium grip tracks it's USUALLY better to run slightly larger tires to get what Zoom mentioned, some (!) tire sidewall roll as this will help with grip. On medium to high grip tracks. Smaller diameter tires is the way to go. Due again to tire flex, or the lack of it. It will make the car feel stiffer and more responive.

Car set up: I don't like the term "Ride Hight". Or maybe it's the way it's used.
Yes, ride hight, as used generally, is the hight that the chassis is from the track ! Can I use the term "Ground Clearence" for this post?
This ground clearence should only be altered by trueing down the tires !! This will then not alter any set up attained on the car. And any alteration in car performance or handling is the result of the tires and the lower COG because of the smaller tires!

"Ride Hight" just for the sake of this post (trying to save anymore confusion to set in here.. ) is the relationship of the chassis to the axle (be it front or rear) when the car is on its wheels.

So .... altering tire diameter has NO effect on ride hight ....only on the ground clearence. Altering your shock collars has the effect of altering both ride hight AND ground clearence ! And you are then into a whole different set up on your car. Because you are not only altering the distance betwean the ground and the chassis, but also the role centres, droop settings and camber.
Even if you go ahead and check and adjust all these back to your known set up, you are still left with an altered car due to the different role centres and maybe also camber gain

Just from experience, I have found on low to medium grip tracks starting out at 62 or 63mm diameter tires seams to work.
Medium to high grip............... around 58 - 60mm and on high grip tracks, 56 - 58 mm diameter.

Just to make things clear. Using the above tire sizes as an example.

On low grip track with 62mm tires all round you have set your ground clearence to 7mm all round (Just for example)

On a medium grip track that same car on 60mm tires would then have a ground clearence of 6mm all round !

On your high grip track that same car on 58mm tires,would have a ground clearence of 5mm all round !

The ride hight is the same ! Hence your droop and camber settings would not change and your role centre's would also not change. Because you have not altered your shock collars.You have only altered your ground clearence (And lowered slightly your COG.)

This is why setting up your car on set up wheels for ride hight is so important. The ride hight will then be the same every time!

I hope I haven't completely confused everyone. But this comes straight from motorsport, not me......... really.

Menace
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Old 01-29-2007, 03:44 AM   #3658
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Final Race of the day, sorry for the poor quality... damn you tube...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=qzynebDwhVY
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:35 AM   #3659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
First G4 came with a sliding rail steering system, which had it's share of problems (binding of plastics on rails)

Then the G4 Evo came with the swing rack steering system (which you are showing), which worked well, but didn't have enough Ackerman.

Then came the G4S with the current single bell crank steering system, with lots of Ackerman and more steering than previous models. The option for this system is an adjustable bell crank arm…read here

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...4118&pageNum=2

AFM
thanks for your reply.

i tried the swing rack steering system last weekend

But i feel some leak of rear grip after change steering system.

so i returned the original system now. ^^
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:41 AM   #3660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Final Race of the day, sorry for the poor quality... damn you tube...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=qzynebDwhVY
Great stuff Kodak
What's with everyone missing the dogleg section to take a shortcut around the back off the start
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