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Old 01-21-2007, 11:01 AM   #3496
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Default Shock Pistons

Hey guys. Just a quick question in regards to the shock pistons. Is there any recomendations on what size I should drill the holes in the rear pistons. I'm sure I read it once, but can't find it. I would figure it out on my own, however I can't run my car for a few months due to winter weather. I'm just looking for a starting point for the shock piston/oil/spring combo.

I have the TM, Serpent and Mugen springs. I also have the Xray for the elctric car which seem very high quality and plenty stiff enough for nitro, but need to find the conversion chart or specs for the Xray springs. Anyway, any help for a "starting" point would be very appreciated. Thanks in advanse my fellow racers!!!!
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:53 AM   #3497
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Hi
I have drilled the Holes to 1,3 mm.
and it works great

marc
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Old 01-21-2007, 12:24 PM   #3498
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reccomendation in this forum was drilling them to 1.2mm.

hope this helps...
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Old 01-21-2007, 12:27 PM   #3499
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Thanks bro! I am assuming this is for the rear shocks...correct?
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Old 01-21-2007, 12:31 PM   #3500
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yeah, that was both for front and rear..
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Old 01-21-2007, 12:50 PM   #3501
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Dude...SWEET! Thank you very much. I'm so use to my 1:8 scale set ups that they do better with either larger holes or more holes in the rear usually with a slightly thinner oil for the better rear traction.

Do you recomend the kit oil in front and rear? Not to sure what weight it is at the moment. Or should I go a little lighter in the rear?
Again, this is just for initial set up till I hit the track, then I can fine tune there.
Thanks again guys!!
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:06 PM   #3502
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Exclamation Nitro Engine Clean

Hi every one:

I haven't clean the outside of my engine for a long time, and I was wonder is someone can give me a tip on how to take all the black stuff off from the outside of the crankcase???

Any idea please!!!



Thank You
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:09 PM   #3503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g4-racing.de
Hi
I have drilled the Holes to 1,3 mm.
and it works great

marc
Definately 1.3mm for me too with 60wt front and 50wt rear shock oil
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:44 PM   #3504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Definately 1.3mm for me too with 60wt front and 50wt rear shock oil
RAZZOR my friend, you are the man!! What brand of oil do you use? I have just about every brand and every weight you could think of...other then Kyosho. Thanks bro..

Everyones input is VERY appreciated. THANKS!!!!
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Old 01-21-2007, 02:11 PM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC-ProSpeed
Hi every one:

I haven't clean the outside of my engine for a long time, and I was wonder is someone can give me a tip on how to take all the black stuff off from the outside of the crankcase???

Any idea please!!!



Thank You
Dude, you have lots of options. You can start with a STRONG degreaser and either a old tooth brush or if it's stuborn, a brass bristle brush. You can also try electric motor spray. If all else fails, go to stronger chemicals such as brake cleaner or the strongest of all is oven cleaner. Be sure to wear good rubber gloves. If you use oven cleaner, be very careful and aware of what you are doing. This will eat your rubber seals and such. This whole process all depends if your engine is tore apart or not. I recommend the degreasers first or the least harsh chemicals first, then work up from there only if you have to.

After you get most of it cleaned off, I keep shooting it with a "nitro cleaner" and the "brush" and air it off very good after each attempt of cleaning. It can take a good 15-45 minutes depending on how bad it is. Just be patient and take your time. No need to hurry.

So in the long run, a clean engine will run cooler and disipate heat faster. Always try and keep your investment CLEAN!!! Good luck my friend!
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Old 01-21-2007, 10:44 PM   #3506
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I use only GS shock oils and diff oils.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:05 AM   #3507
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i just saw serpent 720 manual and the 2 speed, spur assembly looks the same like G4S. well, they are really look the same .
are they exactly the same? interchangeable with G4S?
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:22 AM   #3508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
i just saw serpent 720 manual and the 2 speed, spur assembly looks the same like G4S. well, they are really look the same .
are they exactly the same? interchangeable with G4S?
720 and G4S are not interchangeable. To attempt to convert to the serpent gearing you would need to use their complete shaft and then start fabricating from there.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:26 AM   #3509
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Gave my new G4S its first run on a track yesterday - no racing, just an open day our club runs as the first meet every year. I used the same setup as my G4Evo and this really highlighted the difference between the two cars. Where the Evo pushed the S was very loose on power. Looks like I may need to add back some front droop and mybe add some camber at the rear. Perhaps stiffen up the front springs or soften the rear as well.

Unfortunately, the conditions were pretty extreme and did not really encourage any tinkering. The air temperature was 41 celsius and the track was reading 65c. In the end I retreated with everyone else to the clubhouse for a cold beer in air conditioned comfort.

Anyway, it was good to finally get the new car out of the house and onto the track. I went for a new colour scheme this year - nothing fancy but I tried to match in with the TM colours. Can't wait for the next meet in a fortnight.
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:54 AM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
720 and G4S are not interchangeable. To attempt to convert to the serpent gearing you would need to use their complete shaft and then start fabricating from there.

Cheers,

Mike.
how about the '2 speed' only?
i saw serpent car few weeks ago and the 2 speed works really well.
if its the same i would like to give it a try
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