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Old 11-27-2006, 08:00 AM   #2731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Clutch end play is not used to change the pick up point of the clutch. It is if you set your clutch up wrong however.

First of all the clutch pick-up point is determined by the amout of clutch gap and spring tension.

When we talk about clutch gap, you can see this when you pull the clutch bell away from the engine. While holding the clutch away from the engine, you can see the gap from the friction pad to the clutch bell contact area.

If you say you have 0.6mm clutch gap, here is how to measure it:

Take all the shims out from the inside side of the clutch bell (you know, the ones on the engine shaft near the clutch nut) and remove the bearing as well.

Now, with only the front shims and front bearing installed, screw the clutch back onto the engine. Use a caliper or similar for this measurement procedure.

Push the clutch firmly towards the engine.

Now measure how far the clutch can be pulled away from the engine.

This number is your total clutch gap - the distance between where the clutch rubs on the friction pad and how far you can pull the clutch bell away from the engine.

So now use shims on the front side of the clutch (between the thrust washer and the collar the screw secures) to get the gap you desire. Add or remove a shim until you get the clearance you want (there is no right or wrong amount of shims here, the clearance is one of the factors that determines when the clutch will engage), and re-tighten the clutch onto the engine and re-measure after each shim to see how close you are.

Once you have the gap where you want it (any less than .3mm would probably engage too early but use this as a guide as weights and springs will work in combination here), remove the clutch bell and install the inner bearing.

Return the clutch bell to the engine. Now what you want to do is add shims behind the bearing to get your 0.1mm of end play. The end play is only there to make sure the thrust washer is not squashed too tight as this would make it wear too quickly.

Now when you push the clutch bell towards the engine, it will not make contact with the friction pad. If it does then you have not added enough shims behind the bearing to get the desired end play.

By setting up your clutch like this, you ensure consistency and it keeps the clutch in tip top condition. If you set up your clutch like how average joe does it, then you will suffer from inconsistent clutch performance.

So the next time someone tells you your end play has to be more than 0.1mm, you can educate him on how to set up his clutch correctly. Clutch gap and end play are two completely different things. Don't forget that you need to recheck these measurements whenever you change motors or you remove the flywheel. Manufacturing tolerance on crank shaft length and even how tight you screw on you flywheel will have an effect on the number and position of shims required.

Cheers,

Mike.
Awesome post Zoom!!! Probably the most well written and easy to understand bit on clutch setup I've read. Thanks for taking the time to write it.

Gary
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:33 AM   #2732
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I mentioned this previously and saw the picture today of the Hot Shot Bulkhead top alloy bracket. I have attached a picture ( I think?? )with the alloy braket having the JB Weld inserted in the two cut openings to strengten this piece.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:36 AM   #2733
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Ah yes the bracket ( spelled correctly this time ) picture did show up.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:37 AM   #2734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4S'er
I mentioned this previously and saw the picture today of the Hot Shot Bulkhead top alloy bracket. I have attached a picture ( I think?? )with the alloy braket having the JB Weld inserted in the two cut openings to strengten this piece.
Is it really that weak. The more I look at mine, I can see what your saying. I think I might have to take your advice tonight. Thanks for the insight here!
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:58 AM   #2735
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Thanks G4Ser ,pictures speak a thousand words.
Was looking at Gansei's pic and it looks like hes rhs is bent a bit ,was going to mention this info that you posted earlier.

On a nother note ,ran our club meet yesterday and have to say the ED is a definate improvement.
have to go back to the drawing board though ,I was a bit short on gearing for 2nd.
Had some issues initially with run time ,running to rich.
Qualified 2nd in Bmains ,a bit dissapionting but that was due to tuning issues mentioned.
In the finals I flamed out on the start line and started half a lap back.
By 5 mins I had got to 2nd and got the lead when the no 1 guy pitted.
Unfortunately at 7 mins while passing some back markers i got sandwiched by them and T boned by a guy behind ,this knocked the carb loose and caused a flame out and killed the plug.I dnf'ed.
Overall definate improvement and looking forward to the new season.
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:32 PM   #2736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4S'er
I mentioned this previously and saw the picture today of the Hot Shot Bulkhead top alloy bracket. I have attached a picture ( I think?? )with the alloy braket having the JB Weld inserted in the two cut openings to strengten this piece.
do you know if we can use the 'cat eye shock tower' with the speed shot front bulkhead?
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:34 AM   #2737
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Thanks for the feedback Gary, makes it worth the effort to type it all. I can't take all the credit though. It was Daz that showed me how to set up the clutch properly when he visited Australia last year. Before that I thought clutch gap and end play were the same thing.

Patto, I have never run the spool, so no tips for you (since you are the oposition and all). I forgot to tell you not to use any of my info from here against me at the track!!! Catch ya on Saturday.

Mike.
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:53 AM   #2738
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Thats cool ZOOM, i am rather unfortunate that i recieved one of the faulty spools, but no point getting worked up over it , wont help my cause . but this will be new to me running a front solid axle, however i did try it on the yokomo, but with the OS12cvx it created a bit of bind in the drive train. but i am wiser and have a bit more experience now so i think i will know what to expect and set the car up accordingly. i was half expecting a 'Be Good to your mother' tip but i know where your coming from. i just want to be competitive with the car and keep improving each time. thanks anyways
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:05 AM   #2739
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Default looking good for 2007..!?

Good to see people still sharing info' on the G4s. I was somewhat disspondant when TM let Motorman & Phenix Distribution go in favour of Trinity.
But after watching this thread again the last few days I like all the guys who are running the car.
We all help each other to become better drivers and to get the best out of the car.
All credit due to all on here and thanks to you all for showing such enthusiasm.
I will run the G4s again next year. Some MidWest series races and others.

The Front 'One-way/ Spool' issue......... it's not that common a fault then....is that right?

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Old 11-28-2006, 09:04 AM   #2740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Good to see people still sharing info' on the G4s. I was somewhat disspondant when TM let Motorman & Phenix Distribution go in favour of Trinity.
But after watching this thread again the last few days I like all the guys who are running the car.
We all help each other to become better drivers and to get the best out of the car.
All credit due to all on here and thanks to you all for showing such enthusiasm.
I will run the G4s again next year. Some MidWest series races and others.

The Front 'One-way/ Spool' issue......... it's not that common a fault then....is that right?

Menace
Hi ,welcome back !
The more the merrier they say ,so join in and Im sure you will have something to contribute.
Would like Motorman to post as well ,its not great whats happened but the show has to go on.
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:06 PM   #2741
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Thanks Razzor,
Would you say the new front Baulkhead system is worth the money ?
Is there any difference in weight?

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Old 11-29-2006, 01:04 AM   #2742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Thats cool ZOOM, i am rather unfortunate that i recieved one of the faulty spools, but no point getting worked up over it , wont help my cause . but this will be new to me running a front solid axle, however i did try it on the yokomo, but with the OS12cvx it created a bit of bind in the drive train. but i am wiser and have a bit more experience now so i think i will know what to expect and set the car up accordingly. i was half expecting a 'Be Good to your mother' tip but i know where your coming from. i just want to be competitive with the car and keep improving each time. thanks anyways
I am considering using the old G4 EVO-Mongoose one-way (the one that you had to screw on the plastic pulley to) with the new 30 tooth pulley, just in case the ED transmission's one way fails.

A friend of mine gave it to me some time ago. I originally intended to use it for weight reduction as compared to the G4S one piece one way.

Obviously I would try to get a replacement for a defective unit but I am just about to receive my ED transmission for a big race this weekend. There would be no time for getting a new one. This is something a few of you may consider just in case.b
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:52 AM   #2743
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gtrmx that will definately work but do you have a loose 30t gear as the one in the ED system is a one piece unit.
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:29 AM   #2744
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Yes Hugo has the loose 30T gear to accomplish just that. I am going to do the same in case my fails. Hopefully the new kits I received are made after the housing discovery by TM!!! I tried to loosen my bearing by hand but it has stayed in place. I am not racing until the 9th so won't know till then.
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:32 PM   #2745
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British Menace ,the bulkhead is a great upgrade so long as you take note of the tip G4s'er posted a earlier.ie to fill the machined holes with metal epoxy on the top ally unit where it bolts onto the radio plate.
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