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Old 11-25-2006, 12:52 PM   #2716
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Its unfortunate but true ,TM will have to look at the problem and sort it out and those that have picked up the problem.
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Old 11-25-2006, 01:29 PM   #2717
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I have taken mine out as I prefer to run a diff, but I will check tomorrow.
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Old 11-26-2006, 10:48 PM   #2718
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Default 2 problem in G4S

i think that G4S has two problem.


1. fuel tank problem.



i found fuel is some leak out from fuel tank cap in running.



so i changed new fuel tank.. But leak problem is same..



and i binded fuel tank by an elastic cord (like attached photo)



and did not leak fuel from fuel tank.



i think that it must make good fuel tank's spring or inner tank head rubber.









2. 2-speed shoe problem.



i feel that G4S 2-speed shoe is faster wear out than other maker(mugen,kyosho.. etc on)



small 2-speed shoe make unstable 2-speed timing.



do you agree agree with my thought?
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:21 AM   #2719
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Default Resoultion to front one way problem

Some K14122 ED transmisstion system have defective one-way/solid axle unit. Some units do have larger housings, causing the one-way bearing to slip out. If there is anyone getting a defective one, please contact local dealer or distributor for replacement. Thanks.

We will replace this one to you.
K14122-1 G4 ED HC Alum. One Piece 30T Front One Way / Solid Axle Set

Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Old 11-27-2006, 12:34 AM   #2720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
i think most guys like to run them as a solid axle there for the pins remain in and no problem evident. but if the pins are removed and wanting a oneway axle, then the problem i think will be evident immediately. also as i said, if my one housing has machining fault, then i think there will be lots more out there. unfortunate, i know, but its been picked up on, and now if everyone can check there ED trans front spool, then i think more people will pick up on this fault. i will see tommorow if the loctite has worked or not. if not i will have to run solid up front. thats all
I am about to receive my ED transmission and will sure be looking into this potential problem as I usually run with the one-way.

I have not confirmed this could work, but may I suggest making marks inside the aluminum tube, maybe six or eight, so that the one-way bearings fits tight inside again? If you make these marks you are effectively going to roughen up the surface. While at it, maybe you could try scuffing the outside of the bearing as well. The two rough surfaces may prevent the bearing from spinning.

Maybe you will have to heat the aluminum tube in order to enlarge its diameter and press fit the bearing. Once the tube contracts again I would expect the bearing to be extremely difficult to move...

Ever tried fitting a bearing into a clutch bell that has been scratched inside??

just a thought...
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:52 AM   #2721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
i think that G4S has two problem.

1. fuel tank problem.
i found fuel is some leak out from fuel tank cap in running.
so i changed new fuel tank.. But leak problem is same..
and i binded fuel tank by an elastic cord (like attached photo)
and did not leak fuel from fuel tank.
i think that it must make good fuel tank's spring or inner tank head rubber.

2. 2-speed shoe problem.
i feel that G4S 2-speed shoe is faster wear out than other maker(mugen,kyosho.. etc on)
small 2-speed shoe make unstable 2-speed timing.
do you agree agree with my thought?
Here are my thoughts...

1. fuel tank problem...

I think that the pin that holds the cap in place and serves as a pivot is a bit small in diameter as compared to holes molded into the tank. I always replace that pin with a 3mm screw that is long enough to go all the way to the other side of the cap. You simply thread it in and push the pin out as you progress but have to be careful not to enlargen those holes any more. I think a 3 X 20 mm screw will do. That reduces tolerances and makes a better seal. At the same time, the threads will keep the screw in place and will make it less likely for your pivot pin to ever slide out again...
This I have tried succesfully in my car, and pass the tip along to my friends!

2. two speed shoes...

I have seen the two speed hesitate to shift when it wears out a bit, but usually solve the issue by readjusting the shoes with the setscrews that press the rollers inside. Also, when putting a new kit together I would bring down the length of those setscrews with a dremel sanding drum to prevent them from scratching inside the 2nd speed gear housing after some shoe wear.

I hope this helps!

You have to admit, though, that you usually have to go through less belts, pulleys and diff housings than any other make out there... right? And honestly, I do not think the shoes wear any faster than others...
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:59 AM   #2722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TM Edith
Some K14122 ED transmisstion system have defective one-way/solid axle unit. Some units do have larger housings, causing the one-way bearing to slip out. If there is anyone getting a defective one, please contact local dealer or distributor for replacement. Thanks.

We will replace this one to you.
K14122-1 G4 ED HC Alum. One Piece 30T Front One Way / Solid Axle Set

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Team Magic Edith

Apparently I had not read all replies before answering with my ideas, but I am glad to see TM is willing to support their products!!
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:27 AM   #2723
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With the fuel cap, I had one tank that was great and one that was not so good. I found out that if I turned the two screws that sandwich the rubber seal on the underside of the tank lid half a turn in on each, then I was able to solve the leaking fuel. I also found that a little extra fuel tube from the tuned pipe helps as well.

With the two speed shoes, I have been running the same set for the entire year without any drama so I guess I can't agree there.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 11-27-2006, 01:38 AM   #2724
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Default clutch end play

guys, recently have been using 0.1mm end play ( i measure it with my clutch tool), and some1 told me that its way to tight, so yesterday, i remove 1 shim from the inner clutch bell, and now its 0.3mm (i understand also that recommended is 0.3-0.7, but too large gap will cause thrust bearing to damage), but upon driving the car, i found that it loose some of its power, esp. pick-up power, so is it true? coz previously it was like a rocket (with 0.1mm).

so i m afraid that the tight end play might damage the engine, so do i really have to go with this 0.3mm with loosing some power?
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:57 AM   #2725
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Clutch end play is not used to change the pick up point of the clutch. It is if you set your clutch up wrong however.

First of all the clutch pick-up point is determined by the amout of clutch gap and spring tension.

When we talk about clutch gap, you can see this when you pull the clutch bell away from the engine. While holding the clutch away from the engine, you can see the gap from the friction pad to the clutch bell contact area.

If you say you have 0.6mm clutch gap, here is how to measure it:

Take all the shims out from the inside side of the clutch bell (you know, the ones on the engine shaft near the clutch nut) and remove the bearing as well.

Now, with only the front shims and front bearing installed, screw the clutch back onto the engine. Use a caliper or similar for this measurement procedure.

Push the clutch firmly towards the engine.

Now measure how far the clutch can be pulled away from the engine.

This number is your total clutch gap - the distance between where the clutch rubs on the friction pad and how far you can pull the clutch bell away from the engine.

So now use shims on the front side of the clutch (between the thrust washer and the collar the screw secures) to get the gap you desire. Add or remove a shim until you get the clearance you want (there is no right or wrong amount of shims here, the clearance is one of the factors that determines when the clutch will engage), and re-tighten the clutch onto the engine and re-measure after each shim to see how close you are.

Once you have the gap where you want it (any less than .3mm would probably engage too early but use this as a guide as weights and springs will work in combination here), remove the clutch bell and install the inner bearing.

Return the clutch bell to the engine. Now what you want to do is add shims behind the bearing to get your 0.1mm of end play. The end play is only there to make sure the thrust washer is not squashed too tight as this would make it wear too quickly.

Now when you push the clutch bell towards the engine, it will not make contact with the friction pad. If it does then you have not added enough shims behind the bearing to get the desired end play.

By setting up your clutch like this, you ensure consistency and it keeps the clutch in tip top condition. If you set up your clutch like how average joe does it, then you will suffer from inconsistent clutch performance.

So the next time someone tells you your end play has to be more than 0.1mm, you can educate him on how to set up his clutch correctly. Clutch gap and end play are two completely different things. Don't forget that you need to recheck these measurements whenever you change motors or you remove the flywheel. Manufacturing tolerance on crank shaft length and even how tight you screw on you flywheel will have an effect on the number and position of shims required.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:07 AM   #2726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
guys, recently have been using 0.1mm end play ( i measure it with my clutch tool), and some1 told me that its way to tight, so yesterday, i remove 1 shim from the inner clutch bell, and now its 0.3mm (i understand also that recommended is 0.3-0.7, but too large gap will cause thrust bearing to damage), but upon driving the car, i found that it loose some of its power, esp. pick-up power, so is it true? coz previously it was like a rocket (with 0.1mm).

so i m afraid that the tight end play might damage the engine, so do i really have to go with this 0.3mm with loosing some power?
Dude, you sort of have it right, but backwards at the same time. End play should be 0.1mm and this is achieved by the shims inside the clutch bell. However, the .4mm-.7mm is for clutch gap which is totally independent of endplay. You NEED the end play at .1mm! Put that shim back in. You can feel the endplay when you push and pull on the bell when the assembly is complete and together. It should have very minimal movement, but have some...0.1mm. If your clutch gap however is too close, then this needs adjusted by placeing shims on the outside between the outer thrust bearing plate and the retainer.

A quick way to tell if your clutch gap is too small is to push the bell in and try to turn it. If it contacts the clutch then your definately to small and need to add a shim. Refer to your owners manual on page 27 if you have the G4S manual. If your still confused, let us know. Your not the only one with questions about this. Good Luck!!!
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:12 AM   #2727
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Sorry ZOOM, you must have been posting while I was writting. I hope I didn't step on any toes here. I also hope we posted the same info! Later
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:32 AM   #2728
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The 2 speed springs are too soft. We have to cut the screw for about 1-2mm so we can get the shifting point that we want, but then the spring loose its tension that's why G4S can't get the second speed as hard as other car.
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:53 AM   #2729
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No probs - better to have 2 people posting than none at all!
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:00 AM   #2730
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since your happy to post Zoom, have you ever run the solid front at the track. looks like i have to run solid this weekend. (no references to my diet either thanks) any tips ?
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