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Old 11-15-2006, 12:23 PM   #2581
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well tower hobbies has it listed as team magic, they just dont have any parts and its still on order pending
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Old 11-15-2006, 12:51 PM   #2582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
well tower hobbies has it listed as team magic, they just dont have any parts and its still on order pending
I guess you have yet to understand English humour
And don't ask me to explain it, it just happens
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:47 PM   #2583
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Default Metal roll bar

Does anyone know where to get a taller metal roll bar for the G4S? Just incase I want to run a Lola body for outlaw and to save the engine head in case of a roll over? I know 3Racing has one, but can't find the dang thing anywhere. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:02 PM   #2584
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You know...I haven't tried that Tower Hobbies place yet.
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:52 PM   #2585
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problems with spektrum here as well. all of us who use spektrum here seems to have this problem of not responding for 1-2 sec recently. my frenz who used to have the standard series, changed to pro series spektrum rx, and the problem still existed, also more serious. at certain corner, it will lose control. and out of a corner to a long main straight, it will let go of the throttle for about 1sec, then back on again. he crash so many times loosing control, and replaced so many parts. and as for me, i m using the standard series. there is one time that my car lose responding on a straight road, makes me chase for my car, luckily no damage. then i wrapped it up with a ballon. so the only problem with it is at a particular corner (where most spektrum lost signal), it doesn't want to accelerate. hmm, i think spektrum really need to fix up this problem.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:57 PM   #2586
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If there are a few guys with the same problem ,it might not be radios.
Could possibly be underground electric cables or some electrical field messing around the reception.
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:41 AM   #2587
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I had the same problem with my spectrum reciever on the G4s. I wrapped heat shrink around the reciever and installed it right side up. The throttle servo (fut 3010), would lock up, either open or close and the steering servo (fut 9550) would not responsd for 1-2 seconds. It is not the battery, cuz that's the first thing that I make sure is charged. No fuel spill, no water splash, no stripped wires. This went on for a few tanks.

I replaced the reciever with another used spectrum reciever (original model) replaced the servos with brand new ones, and placed the reciever upside down in the reciever compartment. Then the problem went away.

I put the old electronics in my old mongoose and the problem doesn't exist.

Go figure.
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:30 AM   #2588
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I dont know how your aerial wire is routed, but I would recommend drilling the hole thru the radio plate bigger, so you can sleeve it with some thin fuel tube or a grommet. I also prefer to run a plastic antenna holder, then there is no chance of having the aerial wire touch anything bad. If you still have problems, you can always try earthing the carbon fibre radio plate to one of the engine mount screws.

I run the spektrum PRO, and havent had any problems, but I have always done the above.

Good Luck.
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:52 AM   #2589
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I too have had some radio problems.

The three things I had were the battery being poorly soldered (undo the shrink wrap and all the cells fall out individually). I had to open up the hole for the antenna wire so it didn't contact the radio plate and I also had some xtals go sour in my radio.

Fixed these three things and life is good again.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:52 AM   #2590
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hey guys, I have a G4, not the S class, the RTR.

Im running the stock shocks for now, but would like to change the oil out to get a little better response and eventually change the shocks alltogether.

what oil are you guys using in your fronts/rears?

what kind of shocks should i replace these with?

holla!
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:06 AM   #2591
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Default About front diff and front spool

Hey guys

i have a question about Car Setting..

i want to know difference between front diff and front spool.

what is infortant fact in determining between front diff and front spool ?

is it ground status or circuit rayout style?


thanks..
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:14 AM   #2592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schufflerbot
hey guys, I have a G4, not the S class, the RTR.

Im running the stock shocks for now, but would like to change the oil out to get a little better response and eventually change the shocks alltogether.

what oil are you guys using in your fronts/rears?

what kind of shocks should i replace these with?

holla!
In the UK we dont seem to stray too far from 60 wt front and rear.One thing to try is to drill the 2 piston holes to 1.3 mm in each shock this seems to work well.There is nothing wrong with the shocks just change the bladders.TM have released some new ones (they are blue or orange) which work better.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:27 AM   #2593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
Hey guys

i have a question about Car Setting..

i want to know difference between front diff and front spool.

what is infortant fact in determining between front diff and front spool ?

is it ground status or circuit rayout style?


thanks..
A spool is a solid action front axle (no diff action), it is good on fast open tracks if you need to use brakes, and is also very good on slippery / wet tracks.
A Diff allows a movement between the front wheels, the amount of movement depends on personal feel and is adjusted by using oils of different weights.

My track is on the small side, and although some can do lap times faster with a clear track and a one-way, in traffic brakes are required so you are quicker with a diff or a spool.

I find the spool gives a little push entering a corner with a sudden switch to a tight line when the power is applied, so I prefer to run a resonably stiff action diff, I use Mugen 100,000wt oil in the front diff, this gives a tighter line entering a corner and a smoother switch between off and on power, but your line out of a corner is not so tight, also the diff allows for a quicker direction change.

Best thing to do is try a diff with different weight oils from 50,000wt up (going thicker) until you find which you prefer.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:50 AM   #2594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
A spool is a solid action front axle (no diff action), it is good on fast open tracks if you need to use brakes, and is also very good on slippery / wet tracks.
A Diff allows a movement between the front wheels, the amount of movement depends on personal feel and is adjusted by using oils of different weights.

My track is on the small side, and although some can do lap times faster with a clear track and a one-way, in traffic brakes are required so you are quicker with a diff or a spool.

I find the spool gives a little push entering a corner with a sudden switch to a tight line when the power is applied, so I prefer to run a resonably stiff action diff, I use Mugen 100,000wt oil in the front diff, this gives a tighter line entering a corner and a smoother switch between off and on power, but your line out of a corner is not so tight, also the diff allows for a quicker direction change.

Best thing to do is try a diff with different weight oils from 50,000wt up (going thicker) until you find which you prefer.
50,000wt I though me running 30,000wt was high.
I run 3000wt rear and have fitted ED sytem with diff up front.
My previous setup was ball diff rear with spool front.
You think this will be oK or should I get the thicker diff oil.
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:18 AM   #2595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
50,000wt I though me running 30,000wt was high.
I run 3000wt rear and have fitted ED sytem with diff up front.
My previous setup was ball diff rear with spool front.
You think this will be oK or should I get the thicker diff oil.
I'm running 100,000wt front and 30,000wt rear, otherwise the car will move badly under heavy braking.
Your diff oils are the weights I used in my shaft driven FW05, but belt cars need stiffer diffs.
But then again, it is all down to personal choice.
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