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Old 09-10-2006, 11:50 PM   #1951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
yes, indeed they are very very close. my frenz OS was hit a bit, about 0.5mm, but it wouldn't damage ur engine. so dun worry too much. but on the other hand, d other frenz using nova, hehe, its even worse, slightly deeper cuts.
im using nova
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:50 PM   #1952
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Forgot to post a pic. Still have a few things to do. I also noticed in the pict that I forgot to put the decal and the lower left front airdam. The left rear wheel nut missing is because of the missing threads. I'm no artist, and the paint design is borrowed from Proline brochure. Not perfect, but I can live with it. One of the things I need to do is cut the holes in the windshield and rear window. Anyone have a pic of yours, and what do you use to cut the hole? I never did this on my buggy. A dremel was all that I need for that.
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:51 PM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
ups
btw where did u get the spring from?
Re:Spring...

hehehehe... when i had my orginial G4 Evo 18mnths ago i was having same problems with the brakes, i tried fuel tube & ended up giving up in the end.

Then it came to me... I raided a normal desktop pen for the spring and with the G4S sitting on the bench i appear to have solved it. I am yet to track test it over a full race distance... If not Kfactory have the brake set as another option.

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Old 09-10-2006, 11:55 PM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
aawww

about the ballons, is that ok to cover the receiver with a ballon?
i find the distance to engine is so close, the ballon not gonna melted right?
btw did u put the receiver cover towards the fuel tank or engine?
thx
Side belt touch the upper deck ? Use belt tensioner to lower it. Don't worry if the belt feel stiff. Use waste silicone oil to oil the belt and wipe off the excess.

Receiver cover towards the fuel tank.

Ballon will not melt.

Becareful when mounting the upper deck, make sure all wires are not squeeze by upper deck.
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:55 PM   #1955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33
Forgot to post a pic. Still have a few things to do. I also noticed in the pict that I forgot to put the decal and the lower left front airdam. The left rear wheel nut missing is because of the missing threads. I'm no artist, and the paint design is borrowed from Proline brochure. Not perfect, but I can live with it. One of the things I need to do is cut the holes in the windshield and rear window. Anyone have a pic of yours, and what do you use to cut the hole? I never did this on my buggy. A dremel was all that I need for that.
royfan33:

I just used the lid off the spray can and traced around that. Use a det of curved hobby scissors and clean up edges with the dremel or some sandpaper.

Pic looks good man, you are better at painting then me, hence why i went with the GT Stripes... ohhhh, but that is also because i reckon the old man should put emon his MPS

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Old 09-11-2006, 12:00 AM   #1956
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With regards to the disc being close to the engine ,dont worry about it ,its ample clearance.A worthwhile upgrade is to put the Kfactory brake pads as the std brakes tend to fade during a race.

Cars are looking good there guys !!!

Also balloons on the recievers are not affected by the heat of the engine or the fuel.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:01 AM   #1957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Side belt touch the upper deck ? Use belt tensioner to lower it. Don't worry if the belt feel stiff. Use waste silicone oil to oil the belt and wipe off the excess.

Receiver cover towards the fuel tank.

Ballon will not melt.

Becareful when mounting the upper deck, make sure all wires are not squeeze by upper deck.
silicone oil?
do you think its better to use the belt conditioner?
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:09 AM   #1958
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Its ok to use tensioner ,so long as you can twist belt over it wont be too tight especially as your car is new the belt will stretch a bit.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:48 AM   #1959
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Quote:
I just used the lid off the spray can and traced around that. Use a det of curved hobby scissors and clean up edges with the dremel or some sandpaper.
Thanks Bundy. I'll give that a shot. I know there's a rule on the size of the cutout, I just need to do some research.
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:14 AM   #1960
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last I looked it was 50 MM
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:19 AM   #1961
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If you guys are talking about the cooling hole the rule changed to 60mm.
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:46 AM   #1962
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EFRA is still 50mm (or did I miss something?)
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Old 09-11-2006, 04:56 PM   #1963
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Default Front to rear drive ratio chart for the G4S

I have a Microsoft Excel worksheet that is set-up for the G4S. This worksheet allows you to see the effect of different size pulleys and different wheel diameters on the front to rear overdrive ratio.

I will gladly share this. Contact 1-866-nitoRc or email [email protected] to get the worksheet.
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:26 PM   #1964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
If you guys are talking about the cooling hole the rule changed to 60mm.
i was told this too
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:35 PM   #1965
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Nice looking car Royfan... great paint job!

When talking about the belts, a couple of drops of Serpents premium oil works great also. Makes everything very smooth. We carry that product and of course use it as well.

The front hole being changed to 60mm is my understanding also, much check and see. Remember the bigger you make that hole the less front down force you have. Something to consider.

The new shock bladders are in stock also. These are made with a softer rubber that will rebound instead of dent like the black bladders hate that when it happens. But having smooth consistent shocks is a good thing!!!

A lot of new parts by K Factory. Some are pricey, but really solid up the car! And some just look cool !!! lol

Later!

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