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Old 09-01-2006, 09:13 PM   #1816
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18 Brake, 18 brake-side, 27 front-outside and 18 front-inside. This gears down the whole car so it's like running a smaller pinion and you get more accelleration without overdriving the front of the car so the tyres would be 1 - 1 ratio.
Should I leave the car in the stock setup, or go to something simular to this I will be on a tight parking lot track. Any advice on over all setup? I can read back through the previous posts, but my eyes are still sore from the first go....

British Menace PM sent.

thanks,
gary
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:42 PM   #1817
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Originally Posted by skengines
Is there a way to make sure that the 9mm Pivot ball nut wont come loose? To give a better description, they are the 8 screws that screw in to the hub carrier.

I know you cannot screw it in too tight or else the sterring will bind.

Reason why I am asking, is because while I was breaking my engine in, one of the screws came loose. It was probably because I did not screw it in enough, but I was wondering if an of you guys use a glue of some type.

How much play should there be? Should the hub carrier be able to move a tad bit?
The nuts should be tight enough to prevent the hub carrier from having any more than the minutest amount of slop. You will find sometimes there is a slight burr on the plastic insert between the nut and the ball so you need to check the play every couple of runs. This is good practice anyway.

I have never had any problem with needing to glue them in.

Cheers,

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Old 09-01-2006, 10:46 PM   #1818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33
Should I leave the car in the stock setup, or go to something simular to this I will be on a tight parking lot track. Any advice on over all setup? I can read back through the previous posts, but my eyes are still sore from the first go....

British Menace PM sent.

thanks,
gary
Gary, try the car with the stock setup first. See if you need any more than what it has. I would also try going to the 18/52 23/47 gears before going to the 18/18/27 setup. Clutch setup will make a big difference as well. Since you're new to the car I would suggest running the box setup of the entire car and see how your first race meeting goes. Play with the springs and swaybars to get an idea of how it affects the car as well. The back of the manual is very good with setup tips as well.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 09-02-2006, 01:33 AM   #1819
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Default My G4S Blog!

Check out my G4S blog... I am getting through the build slowly

http://blog.myspace.com/105360486

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Old 09-02-2006, 01:44 AM   #1820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skengines
Is there a way to make sure that the 9mm Pivot ball nut wont come loose? To give a better description, they are the 8 screws that screw in to the hub carrier.

I know you cannot screw it in too tight or else the sterring will bind.

Reason why I am asking, is because while I was breaking my engine in, one of the screws came loose. It was probably because I did not screw it in enough, but I was wondering if an of you guys use a glue of some type.

How much play should there be? Should the hub carrier be able to move a tad bit?
Sometimes when you build this part it does not seat properly, and running those lap breaking in will seat those part hence the need for re-adjustment.
I doubt very much that they are coming loose.
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Old 09-02-2006, 02:49 AM   #1821
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Thanks for the reply.

When adjusting ride height for the front of the car, do I screw in the set screw so it goes into the bulk head?
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Old 09-02-2006, 03:10 AM   #1822
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Originally Posted by skengines
Thanks for the reply.

When adjusting ride height for the front of the car, do I screw in the set screw so it goes into the bulk head?
You adjust ride height with spring adjusters - The screws you refer to are for setting the amout of DROOP in the suspension. Two very different things. Refer to the back of the manual for a quick guide to what each adjustment does.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 09-02-2006, 09:05 AM   #1823
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Thanks Zoom...You and others are going to save me a lot of headaches.

I'm getting ready to place a order for various diff and shock oils. What viscosity range should I start with for each. I know it's alot different than 1/8th buggies. I ordered a TM spring kit that should be on its way with the car, so that part is covered. Any other tuning aids that I should get while I'm at it? Maybe clutch parts, pinion/spurs?

Bundy Bear, your blog is awesome! I will be following your progress with great interest.
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Old 09-02-2006, 10:48 AM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33
Thanks Zoom...You and others are going to save me a lot of headaches.

I'm getting ready to place a order for various diff and shock oils. What viscosity range should I start with for each. I know it's alot different than 1/8th buggies. I ordered a TM spring kit that should be on its way with the car, so that part is covered. Any other tuning aids that I should get while I'm at it? Maybe clutch parts, pinion/spurs?

Bundy Bear, your blog is awesome! I will be following your progress with great interest.
Id suggest getting some pinions and spur gears.
Have noticed most guys have geared 1st gear shorter with new generation of motors available.
Spring set is a plus and also look at spare exhaust and manifold.
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Old 09-02-2006, 02:06 PM   #1825
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Ha ha ha!
I prefer high maintenance..............
LOL
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Old 09-02-2006, 07:40 PM   #1826
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How do you mean "shorter" Jon?
Smaller pinions and larger spur's?
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Old 09-02-2006, 09:21 PM   #1827
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Thanks guys

Last edited by skengines; 09-02-2006 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:59 AM   #1828
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Originally Posted by British Menace
How do you mean "shorter" Jon?
Smaller pinions and larger spur's?
Thats correct ,shorter is smaller pinions or/and larger spur gears.
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Old 09-03-2006, 03:39 AM   #1829
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Originally Posted by Z00M
No wally, it wouldn't. That might be your perception but it would only work if you had big tyres on the front and little tyres on the back.
no cuz when drive the front is not being driven its kinda like 2 wheel drive and the car is faster.

Last edited by wallyedmonds; 09-03-2006 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 09-03-2006, 07:18 AM   #1830
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So wally, according to your theory I should take the belts and gears off the front of my car and it would be even more like a 2wd so it will be even faster!

If you mean it is faster in a straight line then maybe it could be possible in terms of rolling resistance. But last I looked most tracks have corners.

Do you race/drive a G4S wally?

Oh, and by the way, with my dumb way of setting up a car as a 4wd, I TQ'd and won round 10 of our championship - dunno how that happened!
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