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Old 08-24-2006, 11:33 PM   #1756
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Default wierd problem with my G4S

guys, anyone of u have face the similar problem. my car tend to spin 360degrees at 2 particular heavy left turn yesterday. but it was ok all these while. some ppl told me that my 1-way is damaged, so we try to put the pin back and run as solid axle. but i found that solid axle, the car tend to drift a bit, but it doesn't spin at those corners. so my issue here is if the 1-way is damaged, how do we fix it? do we change those bearings? Coz other than bearings, there is nothing that i see can go wrong with it. btw, is it difficult to get those bearings out? seems like needle bearings to me.
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:59 AM   #1757
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For that case its either your oneway, universal or belt. Have you check all of them?
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Old 08-25-2006, 07:29 AM   #1758
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And by the way Mr Xtreme, do you think it's about time you renewed your domain name? Would be nice to be able to have a look at your website
Hehe! We will renew it next week just in time with our redesigned website
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:20 AM   #1759
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It is almost impossible to look at one way bearings and see something wrong. But if your 360's were under power it is a possibility it could be your one ways. So to eliminate the one way as a possible problem, this is what you need to do with the one ways. Clean them out real good to get rid of dirt and possible grease that could have gotten inside them. Serpent has a lube called one way lube ( wow who would have thought! lol) and you apply a small amount of this lube to the one way. And your problem if it is the one way should be cleared. This lube is excellent and should be used as regular maintenance on the 2 speed as well. If you are doing a 360 in just one direction under power, then this should be the problem and the answer.

Hope this works for you, if not take what I have just said totally out of your mind!!!! lol

If you have trouble finding the lube you can find it on my website.

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Old 08-25-2006, 10:48 AM   #1760
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Anyone running a CRF Wasp in a G4s ,need info on gearing to run.
A buddy bought a Wasp and im trying to help him out.
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:57 AM   #1761
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Originally Posted by razzor
Anyone running a CRF Wasp in a G4s ,need info on gearing to run.
A buddy bought a Wasp and im trying to help him out.
from the DYno chart I had seem, that thing has no tourque in low end at all, therefore, gear you car as tourque as possible.

I don't have that engine so don't take my answer too serious
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:39 AM   #1762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Anyone running a CRF Wasp in a G4s ,need info on gearing to run.
A buddy bought a Wasp and im trying to help him out.
Depends on the track size, but you wan't to keep firts gear around the 7.5 ratio and second gear no longer than 5.0, so my suggestions are:

If you use the stock 19T brake pulley and rear side pulley

18-23 pinions, and 52-46 or 47 spurs, which gives you 7.298 first gear ratio and 5.162 or 5.053 secaond gear ratio.

If you need more shorter first gear you need to change brake and rear side pulley to the optional 18T, and you can use

18-24 pinions, and 51-45 or 46 spurs, which gives you 7.556 first gear ratio and 5.00 or 5.11 second gear ratio.

Those are the options depending as i said on your track size and layout...got to try my friend....

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Old 08-25-2006, 11:51 AM   #1763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
Depends on the track size, but you wan't to keep firts gear around the 7.5 ratio and second gear no longer than 5.0, so my suggestions are:

If you use the stock 19T brake pulley and rear side pulley

18-23 pinions, and 52-46 or 47 spurs, which gives you 7.298 first gear ratio and 5.162 or 5.053 secaond gear ratio.

If you need more shorter first gear you need to change brake and rear side pulley to the optional 18T, and you can use

18-24 pinions, and 51-45 or 46 spurs, which gives you 7.556 first gear ratio and 5.00 or 5.11 second gear ratio.

Those are the options depending as i said on your track size and layout...got to try my friend....

AFM
Thanks ,thats a good starting point.

If you are using the 20t brake and side pulley ,will that make the gearing longer ??
I am running these on my G4s with 18 - 24 ,52 - 46 with the 20t side and brake pulley.I run Palmaris PR12 or a Nova with BRB piston and rod set.
Starting to figure this gearing out.Thanks.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:03 PM   #1764
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Default CRF in g4s

sup ,razzor i run the CRf ,with the novarossi short conical header,with novapipe 2630 ,40% byrons ,gearing 18/51,23/46.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:09 PM   #1765
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Thanks for info impalabob64 , whats your opinion on this combo ???
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:10 PM   #1766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Thanks ,thats a good starting point.

If you are using the 20t brake and side pulley ,will that make the gearing longer ??
I am running these on my G4s with 18 - 24 ,52 - 46 with the 20t side and brake pulley.I run Palmaris PR12 or a Nova with BRB piston and rod set.
Starting to figure this gearing out.Thanks.
That is way to long gearing for the CRF engine....20T brake and side pulley will give you longer gearings with any combination...

Don't forget that this engine doesn’t have a lot of low rpm power. This engine has a high rpm power band and that changes in the way you set up your clutch and 2-speed. This will require changes in gearing as well as 2 speed shift points to allow the car to use the rpm range best suited for this engine.

If you try and use the same gearing and clutch settings that you previously used with your Nova based engines then you will definitely be disappointed in the power delivery of the Orion engine.

When geared and clutched properly this engine has a lot of power and is a potent racing engine.

The typical novarossi clutch setup would be 20-22,000rpm where the CRF would be 26-28,000rpm.

If you were to keep the same clutch setting as a typical nova engine, while using the CRF, you can see it will be well out of its power band for some time before coming on power.

With too early of a clutch engagement, the engine has to struggle to come on the pipe, and this will lead to a big lag in power, also a tremendous heat build up as the engine is basically fighting itself at this rpm.

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Old 08-25-2006, 12:29 PM   #1767
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Sorry the gearing mentioned is on my G4s with a Profi PR12 .
Will be trying shorter gearing on a buddies G4s with the CRF.
Although what you said makes sense as I am also having some hassles with my car.
With stock gearing in my car I found engine to be little lazy or lacking on the top end and when I tuned engine to stay around the 120-130 deg/c range its flat on power,I have been leaning engine out to get decent speed and engine runs at its happiest around 180 deg/c.
reading the last part of your post makes me think and understand I have geared longer instead of shorter.
Will have to experiment a bit more ,thanks guys for the info.
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:13 PM   #1768
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I've run the CRF/G4S combo once this year as well.

I ran on 16% nitro (max allowed here in Aus).

Stock internal gears (19T) and 18/23 52/47. I ran the yellow clutch spring and about .7 gap. Using the JP 2620 pipe, I normally use the short conical header, however the wasp was better with the standard long header from JP. I think it would have been better with the long conical header.

With this combo I set a new 5min qualifying record for our track. We run on an open flowing layout with a couple of tight turns thrown in. I felt the car was about 2 feet slower than the rest coming out of the slowest turn but it made it up down the straight and the power was smooth enough to be able to be fast through the sweeping turns.
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:22 AM   #1769
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Hi Guys

The Postman has been slack and i still dont have my car... So i spent the day painting a body and getting it ready in the mean time.
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:34 AM   #1770
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Hi Guys

The Postman has been slack and i still dont have my car... So i spent the day painting a body and getting it ready in the mean time.
you can count on aussie post
nice looking GTS monaro stripes you got on the 6
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