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Old 07-31-2006, 10:33 AM   #1606
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Dennis, Thanks again for the help at the track sunday the two speed was a huge improvent!....Now I just wish I could finish a heat with out running out of fuel ..... I'll get with you at the GLC on the other stuff we spoke about... Thanks again, S.C.
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:15 PM   #1607
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Default Thought I would be racing this year. Oh well.

Racing isn't going to happen this year for me.

Got a brand new in the box G4S I'll sell for $310 shipped to US addresses.

Thought I would post here first just in case someone is looking for one.

Otherwise, I'll post in the sale forums in a day or two.
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:06 PM   #1608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJ
Dennis devloped a new internal gear system for the G4S that some of us got a chance to run this past weekend at Toledo. It was a very definate improvement, and I picked up about .3 sec's per lap. I also ran the new Black clutch spring with all the weights in the flyweights, and dialed a ton of clutch in it. Dennis reworked a Kyosho UFO clutch bell and pinions. The motor just came to life, and the bottom end pulls waaay harder!! The first column of numbers is the standard drive numbers, and the second is the numbers for the improved internal drive. I also undertsand in afew months Team Magic will be offering a still lower internal drive. Some of the prototype stuff I saw was really really trick!!

Front Diff.Pulley 32 32
Inside Front Pulley 18 18
Outside Frt Pulley 27 26(option pulley)
Outside Rear Pulley 19 20
Brake Pulley 19 20
Rear Diff. Pulley 48 48
1st Speed Pinion 19 17(TM Kyosho UFO pinion)
2nd Speed Pinion 24 23(TM Kyosho UFO pinion)
1st Speed Spur 51 52
2nd Speed Spur 46 47
Fr. Tire Diameter 61 59
Rear Tire Diameter 62 62

1st Speed Final Gear Ratio 6.781 7.341
2nd Speed Final Gear Ratio 4.842 4.904
Ratio between 1st and 2nd Speed 40.05% 49.69%
Final Coeficient 2.526 2.400
Ratio between Front & Rear Tires 98.39% 98.82%
hmmmmmmmmmm sounds great!! Now if I just had some optionaL pulley's to do it with!!
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:05 PM   #1609
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guys, may i ask more about the TM Kyosho UFO? do u mean we buy another set of kyosho UFO? coz currently my frenz have a RRR at his home, but i told him about this and he said that the UFO cannot be used on G4S as some holes are different. pls advise.
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:32 PM   #1610
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I've modified my rear upper link with some mugen parts. It gives the suspension a much smoother operation and it prevents the link from popping out of the ball when you get into mishaps.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:23 PM   #1611
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Unique
the answer is no. Right now it is something we are doing, The only difference between the kyosho UFO and the G4S UfO is the clutch bell itself,the front bearing and bearing holder. We are using a highly modified Kyosho/K Factory UFO clutch bell, and Kyosho/K factory pinions on the G4S car.(this is not a plug and go arrangement at this time, kyosho clutch bell and pinions do not line up, they must be machined so they line up properly.) We only got these together this last weekend. Next week after the Great lakes challenge race I will provide more detail. The off the corner and overall acceleration is nothing less than spectacular on tracks like the USA has with tight stop and go corners. It allowed us to get very,very agressive on the clutch.

With the stock gearing arrangement we find that the car performs best with 59 mm tire diameter on it. Great for qualifying but to small for mains. Now the car really hauls azz with 62 mm tires on it, even faster than 59's with the stock gearing arrangement.

This is using the 2.40 FDR arrangement
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:26 AM   #1612
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motorman,

thanks for your advise, no wonder coz i can't figure out how u suppose to use kyosho UFO clutch bell on G4S. hmm, DIY mod huh. shall await to see more of your DIY here so that i can try my hands on. currently m using 18T clutch, and i reckon that it would be much more responsive pick-up with 17T. great work here.
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Old 08-01-2006, 04:10 AM   #1613
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That's a really good modification dnitro. We've been using the mod for most of this year, and it really helps. Another mod you may want to try is getting a 26tooth front pulley that replaces the 27tooth stock pulley. It's the pulley that is on the front of the side belt. This causes the front wheels to overdrive the car so you will have to run a split between the front and rear tires of 2.5mm. The front being smaller than the rear by 2.5mm. This set-up does afew things. One it allows for a lower rear roll center which helps in really high bite tracks. Normally in really high bite tracks the front tires have alot of grip. The lower roll center gives even more rear bite to compensate. The smaller front tire will also have less traction than rear tire(less rubber vs more rubber) You may already be doing this but you may like it.
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:23 PM   #1614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnitro
I've modified my rear upper link with some mugen parts. It gives the suspension a much smoother operation and it prevents the link from popping out of the ball when you get into mishaps.
The G4S turnbuckle is 4mm while Mugen ball connector is 3mm. How did you do that ?

Btw, the original G4S rear upper link ball is very hard to pop off. Trust me
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:46 PM   #1615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
The G4S turnbuckle is 4mm while Mugen ball connector is 3mm. How did you do that ?

Btw, the original G4S rear upper link ball is very hard to pop off. Trust me
I agree with you, the rear upper link ball end is so tight that make it hard to pop out.

but I do noitve the 4mm turn buckle on stock G4 is way too short (18mm), not many thread are in the plastic, I suggest TM or whoever has a G4 switch to at least 20mm turn buckle on it 23mm is the best length in fact.

I wrongly order an 20mm which is slightly longer but may not be enough, maybe I will order another 23mm pair sometime soon
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:00 PM   #1616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
I agree with you, the rear upper link ball end is so tight that make it hard to pop out.

but I do noitve the 4mm turn buckle on stock G4 is way too short (18mm), not many thread are in the plastic, I suggest TM or whoever has a G4 switch to at least 20mm turn buckle on it 23mm is the best length in fact.

I wrongly order an 20mm which is slightly longer but may not be enough, maybe I will order another 23mm pair sometime soon
Yes, they seem not long enough if you are using 3 degree camber.

I'm using 4 & 4.5 so they are still okay. Have you consider using Mugen MBX5 Ti turnbuckle ? I know it's 4mm thick but I'm not sure about the total length.

My friend replaced all steering ball connectors with Xray. I know the plastic are hard stuffs and very hard to pop off. You also need to buy Xray metal pivot balls.
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:13 PM   #1617
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nice article in xtreme mag. looks good
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Old 08-01-2006, 09:07 PM   #1618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Yes, they seem not long enough if you are using 3 degree camber.

I'm using 4 & 4.5 so they are still okay. Have you consider using Mugen MBX5 Ti turnbuckle ? I know it's 4mm thick but I'm not sure about the total length.

My friend replaced all steering ball connectors with Xray. I know the plastic are hard stuffs and very hard to pop off. You also need to buy Xray metal pivot balls.

I am using Lunsford Ti Punisher now, hoping to get the rod end of mugen or X-ray too
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Old 08-02-2006, 01:18 AM   #1619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
The G4S turnbuckle is 4mm while Mugen ball connector is 3mm. How did you do that ?

Btw, the original G4S rear upper link ball is very hard to pop off. Trust me

I used a dremel to slightly open up the hole. With this set-up, both ends are screwed in deeper, and prevents the link from "caving in" during a hit.
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Old 08-02-2006, 11:47 PM   #1620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman
Unique
the answer is no. Right now it is something we are doing, The only difference between the kyosho UFO and the G4S UfO is the clutch bell itself,the front bearing and bearing holder. We are using a highly modified Kyosho/K Factory UFO clutch bell, and Kyosho/K factory pinions on the G4S car.(this is not a plug and go arrangement at this time, kyosho clutch bell and pinions do not line up, they must be machined so they line up properly.) We only got these together this last weekend. Next week after the Great lakes challenge race I will provide more detail. The off the corner and overall acceleration is nothing less than spectacular on tracks like the USA has with tight stop and go corners. It allowed us to get very,very agressive on the clutch.

With the stock gearing arrangement we find that the car performs best with 59 mm tire diameter on it. Great for qualifying but to small for mains. Now the car really hauls azz with 62 mm tires on it, even faster than 59's with the stock gearing arrangement.

This is using the 2.40 FDR arrangement
Motorman,

I assume you had to decrease the diameter of either pinion. Which was it, first or second? Would that create any chance of stripping spurs?

I am really willing to try!! Could you get me the parts you describe? Where could I purchase them?

Thanks!

Hugo
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