Team Magic G4

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  • Quote: I don't know...... , but I'm using Kfactory 20 & 25 pinions without problem. I suspect gear mesh problem that would result in stripping gear. Make sure you add all the shims inside the bell ( between clutch spring's locknut and bearing ) and leave the gap or play to minimum for the clutch bell. UFO clutch needs different approach or setting.

    The best gear mesh I think is 19 & 25 with stock spur gears. Every gear's tooth seems to match perfectly.
    Gear mesh had nothing to do with it in this instance.
    The old worn out pinion was removed and replaced with a new (out of the packet) one, this pinion done nothing but strip three 2nd spur gears, i removed it and got another new one and am still running this with no sign of wear, so it has to be a duff pinion gear (hence bad qualifying times at a recent rubber national at my track).
  • I see.... glad that you could solved the problem

    Anybody use OS TZ engines inside G4S ? I'm asking because I want to check the clearance between brake plate and engine.
  • ASW yes we used them for quite some time and using 18/24 had no issues.

    On gear strippage. you must use the short engine screws to the engine mount at the rear. If you use any longer than the stock ones the screws that mount the engine mount to the chassis and the engine come together as they share a common hole. If you use the engine mount screw that is the next common lenght longer at the rear of the engine the screws bind together leaving about a .010 gap between the chassis and the engine mount screws. It is invisile to the eye but the mount is not secure to the chassis. The engine will shift every time stripping the gear.
  • Quote: I see.... glad that you could solved the problem

    Anybody use OS TZ engines inside G4S ? I'm asking because I want to check the clearance between brake plate and engine.
    I've got the OS-TZ in my G4S ... clearance seem fine.
  • Quote: ASW yes we used them for quite some time and using 18/24 had no issues.

    On gear strippage. you must use the short engine screws to the engine mount at the rear. If you use any longer than the stock ones the screws that mount the engine mount to the chassis and the engine come together as they share a common hole. If you use the engine mount screw that is the next common lenght longer at the rear of the engine the screws bind together leaving about a .010 gap between the chassis and the engine mount screws. It is invisile to the eye but the mount is not secure to the chassis. The engine will shift every time stripping the gear.
    I know of all these problems (have raced Nitro 200mm since 1997).
    Maybe I should make it clearer, only the pinion gear was changed, it was original clutch bell with same number of spacers, motor mount was double checked (was myfirst thought) even though it is never removed (I remove motor from mount, not mount from car), only this one pinion gear causes the stripping problem.

    Only faults I can find with this car is:
    Brake fade (cured with those pricey pads)
    Battery pack - connections vibrate loose causing radio shut down, I have now resolder them.
    and ....... (still trying to find another fault, and I am looking hard)
    got one!! the driver
  • Quote: I've got the OS-TZ in my G4S ... clearance seem fine.
    but you've never raced it ?
  • Quote: but you've never raced it ?
    C'mon NiMo, some people gotta work to sustain a living, feed the family and THEN do the hobby. Its a hobby, to enjoy, nothing more. I race the Nationals when I can and the do the club races when I can. To be frank I get a little bit tired of racing on the same track week in, week out so I make the extra effort to go to away races. I don't see you do the big National races and yes, you have your reasons ... leave it at that.
  • i have found a program that can actually calculate the gear ratio, so u just input all ur pulleys and gear, and here is wat u will have :

    - ODR Ratio
    - 1st Gear Ratio
    - 2nd Gear Ratio
    - 1st/2nd Gear Ratio

    but can anyone here explain to me wat does the ratio above means? and how are we supposed to know which sets of gears and pulleys are good match? thanks.
  • Quote: I see.... glad that you could solved the problem

    Anybody use OS TZ engines inside G4S ? I'm asking because I want to check the clearance between brake plate and engine.
    See my Signiture, no problem at all
  • Quote: ASW yes we used them for quite some time and using 18/24 had no issues.

    On gear strippage. you must use the short engine screws to the engine mount at the rear. If you use any longer than the stock ones the screws that mount the engine mount to the chassis and the engine come together as they share a common hole. If you use the engine mount screw that is the next common lenght longer at the rear of the engine the screws bind together leaving about a .010 gap between the chassis and the engine mount screws. It is invisile to the eye but the mount is not secure to the chassis. The engine will shift every time stripping the gear.
    Thanks for the information.

    I know it already since day 1. Mugen cars also share the same hole on the engine mount : top & bottom.

    I could only suggest to use 3x12mm screws for securing rear bulkheads, upper deck bulkheads and engine braces ( where the main bearings sits ). So there is no flex issue at the rear section.
  • Quote: I've got the OS-TZ in my G4S ... clearance seem fine.
    Thanks.
  • Quote: See my Signiture, no problem at all
    Thanks CB.
  • Hey guys, Quick question.... I'm running a stock front side pulley ... 20t rear side pulley and a 19t break pulley and running about a 3 mm split front to rear .....at what tire size would I have zero overdrive?.....and is there some formula to figuring this out...any help will be appreciated! Thank you.
  • Quote: Hey guys, Quick question.... I'm running a stock front side pulley ... 20t rear side pulley and a 19t break pulley and running about a 3 mm split front to rear .....at what tire size would I have zero overdrive?.....and is there some formula to figuring this out...any help will be appreciated! Thank you.
    What may help is to explain why you're running 20t rear side pulley and 19t brake pulley in the first place... Besides you trying to obtain zero overdrive... Do you have the gear ratio calculator??? You need to figure out your rollout first and then calculate your gear ratio... PM Motorman... I'm sure he can give you a hand and clear things up... Alot of racers try and do to much and copy what there friends are doing online or at the track... If you want the correct info about your G4S... and if it's not coming from Motorman, RayJ, Darren from the UK or Brian Berry pretaining to the G4S setup on RC Tech .... You're taking matters into your own hands... .02 ... Guessing never helps anyone..

    RC_Alan
  • rc-alan, I talked to brian and Ray at the track at our last club race and brian explained it to me a little in between our heats, I'm sure it's not rocket science but I always like to get input from others....I am running basicaly the same set-up as them and just copied the pulley and tire size set-up but, I would like to try something different and run the same size tires all around...I just need to figure out what I would have to do to the pulley's to acheive that. I will see Brian, Ray and dennis this weekend but I would like to be set-up before I get to the track since this is something I want to just try before the GLC race next weekend.....Thanks for the reply

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