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Old 05-20-2003, 01:31 AM   #1456
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ducati998
Why do you guy think Serpent don't position the throttle servos on the 705 to be straight?
Not really sure on that one. It is stupid having the servo that shape. Puts unnecessary loads on the servo. The throttle servo position is really the main thing I dont like about the car. You have to take it out to get the radio plate off. Serpent were really sleeping when they designed the tray. How are you meant to get at the rollbar set screw?????
If people had brains. lol.
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Old 05-20-2003, 01:32 AM   #1457
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Hi InitialD,

I'm back! ;-))

I've been busy wrecking and rebuilding my 705 ;-)) It's amazing what this car can withstand - except for the wheels, I've not had to replace any parts as yet.... and I've had some big, big accidents!!!!

My shocks certainly seem to leak, so maybe the new membranes will help. I'm going to be ordering the new red membranes + inserts ASAP.

I'm still suffering from pulling to one side and spinning under breaking - even using drag break with very little pressure. I can now only attribute it to possible leaking shocks, i.e. air getting in the cap and reducing the viscosity.
I've ordered the alu-teflon shocks to see if they improve matters.

As for tweak, there is no sign on my car - I have the MIP tweak station and it shows that the car is very well balanced.

I'm looking forward to getting back on the track. The EFRA 1/8 German GP is taking place just a few miles away from me at the weekend, I'm looking forward to seeing how the worlds best drive their cars!!!! See if I can hunt out Mr Michael Salven :-))
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:19 AM   #1458
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Re: Re: Radio Interference

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What frequency are you running? What radio gear are you running? I know that if a frequency is pretty close to one another, you may have disturbances. As an example, if you're running 40.67 MHz frequency and if another guy is running 40.675 MHz, although frequency is different but you may still get disturbances. I've heard before that frequencies like 40.675 MHz are called split crystals and they are not officially made because they cause problems like these.

Else like what nizee has suggested, use your friend's crystals or your friends's receiver / transmitter and mount it on your car. It could also be that some metal parts are touching on your car and creating harmonics which could also be a source for your disturbance problems. Check to see if everything is secured tightly and no metal parts have the tendency of vibrating.

What exhaust are you using? 2 piece type mounted with a silicone coupler? That could be a culprit too depending on how you mounted your exhaust manifold and pipe. Make sure that the exhaust manifiold and the pipe do not touch each other.
I use 40.81 crystal and M8 radio with receiver that comes with it.
Everything was checked and OK the last thing I need to do is to verify transmitter and receiver but I dun have that luxury of having 10 ppl or more playing together with me at the same time unless during race day. By then it is too late already...

I 'll try the exhaust pipe Thanks...
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:27 AM   #1459
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
As for tweak, there is no sign on my car - I have the MIP tweak station and it shows that the car is very well balanced.

I'm looking forward to getting back on the track. The EFRA 1/8 German GP is taking place just a few miles away from me at the weekend, I'm looking forward to seeing how the worlds best drive their cars!!!! See if I can hunt out Mr Michael Salven :-))
Yup, it is a tough car

The car can be balanced on the tweakstation when stationary. Have you checked the balance of the car when the front shocks are depressed? Do this test. Press the front side of the shocks so that both left and right front shocks depress equally. The rear end will now slightly lift up. Now check the balance of the rear side. If one side is heavier than the other, then the rear droop screws are not set equal.

This is what happens when you brake. The weight transfers to the front and the rear will lift up. If the rear droop screws are not set equal, the left and right arms will not put equal pressure and you will tend to spin out on the slightest braking action.

Say hi to Michael for me
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:35 AM   #1460
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Not really sure on that one. It is stupid having the servo that shape. Puts unnecessary loads on the servo. The throttle servo position is really the main thing I dont like about the car. You have to take it out to get the radio plate off. Serpent were really sleeping when they designed the tray. How are you meant to get at the rollbar set screw?????
If people had brains. lol.
Well, Michael Salven mentioned that they could help avoiding the "design flaw".

You can actually take the radio plate off the car with the handle and the radio tray support. Just unmount the screws from the aluminum radio tray support and the whole piece (radio tray, servos, handle roll bar and radio tray support) will come off together.

My educated guess on why the throttle servo is positioned they way it is now is to optimise the weight and polar moment distribution.
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:43 AM   #1461
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Default Re: Re: Re: Radio Interference

Quote:
Originally posted by khyber
I use 40.81 crystal and M8 radio with receiver that comes with it.
Everything was checked and OK the last thing I need to do is to verify transmitter and receiver but I dun have that luxury of having 10 ppl or more playing together with me at the same time unless during race day. By then it is too late already...

I 'll try the exhaust pipe Thanks...
Just have a run by on the list of participants on that day when you had radio problems. My guess is that is that you could find one who has a very close frequency like 40.815.

If your race director is good enough, you can lodge a complain to him when you detect the problem just before the race and ask him to check on the spot all the racer's frequencies on the driver's stand just before the race begins. The race director can do by elimination method to single out your problem.

Make sure that only your radio is switched on among the 10 people on the driver's stand. Then one by one, each of the drivers will have to switch on their radios one by one. If you start to have problems when that particular someone switches on their radio, then you will know that yours and his frequencies are giving the glitch. Just a suggestion to your problem.
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:43 AM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yup, it is a tough car

The car can be balanced on the tweakstation when stationary. Have you checked the balance of the car when the front shocks are depressed? Do this test. Press the front side of the shocks so that both left and right front shocks depress equally. The rear end will now slightly lift up. Now check the balance of the rear side. If one side is heavier than the other, then the rear droop screws are not set equal.

This is what happens when you brake. The weight transfers to the front and the rear will lift up. If the rear droop screws are not set equal, the left and right arms will not put equal pressure and you will tend to spin out on the slightest braking action.

Say hi to Michael for me

I've not checked the balance when pressing the shocks down - so its better to press on the front shock bridge? to test this?
Thanks for the tip!!!!! :-)

So far I check the front an rear separately by placing the a block under the rear or front (ie the opposite end to that which I want to check) and then see if there is tweak. After that I check the front and back without the block. Also when checking the front or rear alone (i.e. with the block), I also check with and without anti-roll bar.

But the droop screws sounds like a good idea.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-20-2003, 02:47 AM   #1463
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Default Re: Re: Re: Membrane gluing Q

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
The problem wasnt the membrane. It was the alloy caps. The first batches of 705's had a machine fault and the caps were the wrong size which accounted for most of the problem. I was lucky and got one of the batch with the new machined caps so I dont have any problems with the shocks. But like you, I dont glue them in. Only destroys them trying to get them back off to change the oil.

On Sunday at our Championship round there were 5 705 drivers all changing the caps to the new ones. Waste of time as the rain wasnt taking time to come down. I packed up and went home early enough to watch the F1.
Ummm, faulty caps you say... I'm using the stock caps that came with the kit and I have not experienced any sort of leaking on the shocks.

Yes, the primary reason for me not gluing the membranes is so that I can use them again when I rebuild the shocks.
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Old 05-20-2003, 03:04 AM   #1464
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I definately had one or two faulty caps - on my faulty caps, the screw threads weren't properly formed which lead to leaks :-((
The shocks have been a real pain for me :-(((

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-20-2003, 03:17 AM   #1465
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Radio Interference

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Just have a run by on the list of participants on that day when you had radio problems. My guess is that is that you could find one who has a very close frequency like 40.815.

If your race director is good enough, you can lodge a complain to him when you detect the problem just before the race and ask him to check on the spot all the racer's frequencies on the driver's stand just before the race begins. The race director can do by elimination method to single out your problem.

Make sure that only your radio is switched on among the 10 people on the driver's stand. Then one by one, each of the drivers will have to switch on their radios one by one. If you start to have problems when that particular someone switches on their radio, then you will know that yours and his frequencies are giving the glitch. Just a suggestion to your problem.
My race director have done just that and was OK However when my car start to go around the track it glitched like hell!
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Old 05-20-2003, 04:13 AM   #1466
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I've not checked the balance when pressing the shocks down - so its better to press on the front shock bridge? to test this?
Thanks for the tip!!!!! :-)
Yes. Any which way that you can put pressure equally on both the left and right front shocks. This is just so that you can simulate what happens to the balance of the rear tires on the track when you apply brakes.
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Old 05-20-2003, 04:44 AM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I definately had one or two faulty caps - on my faulty caps, the screw threads weren't properly formed which lead to leaks :-((
The shocks have been a real pain for me :-(((

Cheers, Mark.
On mine, I actually had very slight burrs which prevented me from securing the shock cap properly.
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:56 AM   #1468
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Default Re: Re: Re: FPS Differential

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Nizee,

Which pulleys do you mean when you say "separate pulleys"?

I'd like to replace my standard diff with the FPS, so I can quickly change the diff settings and see how it affects the car - being pretty new to the RC scene, to have to keep rebuilding the rear end just to test a different setting is too much. Also because it takes quite a long time to change, I can't easily compare.

Thanks, Mark.
InitialD have answer it all in details.

Thanks InitialD.
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:16 AM   #1469
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Default Re: Re: Membrane gluing Q

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think this was mentioned before. I personally do not glue the membrane onto the shock cap contrary to what the manual recommends. The new membranes that come with the kit apparently sit into the shock cap better now and does not deform or does not sit out of place so easily. As a result, I don't get leaky shocks like I use to get in the early days with the PRO no matter what I did Just makes sure that the shock cap is tightly screwed in.

I think the new foam inserts for the shocks should make the shocks last longer and perform more consistantly before you need to rebuild it.
There was some issue on the shock sometimes back in Dec/Jan on this forum, and i never did glue my membrane on the pivot.

I never had any problem with my alloy cap. But i do learn something from my mistake and some others to avoid striping the alloy cap.
1) Never pull out the shock from the pivot ball on top, while holding the shock body. That can EASILY strip the tread.
2) When Shock Body is New, Alloy Cap is new, screw in slowly "Penpendiculaly Straight". If you feel some tightness during screw in, let the alloy all the way out and try again until you find everything is straight. After screw in all the way in, You should observe/make the alloy cap and the shock body perfectly parallel to each. If by that time, u found they are not perfectly parallel to each other, then YOU already strip either one of them (YOUR MISTAKE), so get a new alloy cap or shock body to replace it, if you still insist on doing that, you will notice that there will be leak there and DON'T Blame Serpent for it for giving bad parts!!!!!!
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:47 AM   #1470
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Default Re: Pivot Balls Pics

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Talking about pics, I almost forgot. Accord, before you post yours, I would like to post a pic of what I promised sometime back.

Here is a pic comparing the two different pivot balls. On the left is the normal stock pivot ball and on the right is the new shortened aluminum pivot ball.

I noticed that the round head of the new pivot ball itself is shorter. The measurement from top of the round head to the bottom of the round head measures about 7.3 mm. The stock pivot balls are approx 8 mm. From side to side, they are both 8.5 mm hence their name 8.5 mm pivot balls
Hey InitialD, Nice Ballz u show there !!

The different in length is 23mm for the stock and 21.63mm for the FC Alu. The different you observe on the balls size because the neck of the ball on that Alu FC is made thicker, which i guess to make the alu a lilttle bit stronger but other then that, it shouldn't make any different on your problem with popping it off the steering block. You might want to try the Alu pivot ball and see if the balls helps. My only GUESS, though i could be wrong, that since you do not have the stock pivot balls trim shorter, you have quite a space between the arm and the steering knuckle (I saw that in mine if i don't trim it) that could easily cause it to pop off if u hit something, since the concave of that arm is too far to stop the knuckle. This is just my guess. Let us know.
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