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Old 05-19-2003, 09:35 PM   #1441
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Someone (can't remember who) suggested to drill a hole in the radio tray to fit the switch.
That was me .

I'll take a picture of how I did it, i'll post it in a few minutes.
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:19 PM   #1442
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
That was me .

I'll take a picture of how I did it, i'll post it in a few minutes.
Sorry, lapse of memory There are actually quite a number of 705 users on the forum which is a good thing.
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:22 PM   #1443
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Oh yeah, and for anyone who plans on drilling their radio plate to mount a switch, wear gloves! I made the mistake of not wearing gloves and now i've got a bunch of carbon fiber dust in the pores of my skin, it itches like hell! Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning my hands, other than just plain old soap and water?

I've got a purple radio switch cover, but I don't have it on there right now. You might think the throttle linkage would get in the way, but it doesn't. Here is the pic as promised:
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:32 PM   #1444
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Default Pivot Balls Pics

Talking about pics, I almost forgot. Accord, before you post yours, I would like to post a pic of what I promised sometime back.

Here is a pic comparing the two different pivot balls. On the left is the normal stock pivot ball and on the right is the new shortened aluminum pivot ball.

I noticed that the round head of the new pivot ball itself is shorter. The measurement from top of the round head to the bottom of the round head measures about 7.3 mm. The stock pivot balls are approx 8 mm. From side to side, they are both 8.5 mm hence their name 8.5 mm pivot balls
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:36 PM   #1445
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Oh yeah, and for anyone who plans on drilling their radio plate to mount a switch, wear gloves! I made the mistake of not wearing gloves and now i've got a bunch of carbon fiber dust in the pores of my skin, it itches like hell! Anyone have any suggestions on cleaning my hands, other than just plain old soap and water?

I've got a purple radio switch cover, but I don't have it on there right now. You might think the throttle linkage would get in the way, but it doesn't. Here is the pic as promised:
Focus, focus

Is your throttle linkage and servo already fixed? The throttle servo arm position looks a little weird.
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:41 PM   #1446
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Focus, focus

Is your throttle linkage and servo already fixed? The throttle servo arm position looks a little weird.
Actually, in that pic the linkage is at WOT and the brake is at full brake. Is that how it should look when it's WOT?
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Old 05-19-2003, 11:26 PM   #1447
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Actually, in that pic the linkage is at WOT and the brake is at full brake. Is that how it should look when it's WOT?
If that's the case, then it should be OK. I know that it is a little weird. That is why I did not like the way the throttle / brake servo is placed on the 705 radio tray. That's my only gripe on the 705.
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Old 05-19-2003, 11:33 PM   #1448
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Why do you guy think Serpent don't position the throttle servos on the 705 to be straight?
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Old 05-19-2003, 11:37 PM   #1449
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Default Re: Re: FPS Differential

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
No Modification is needed to change from Stock Diff to FPS Diff. But you do have to get separate pulleys for use only on the FPS, coz it doesn't come with it.

Advatange?
1) Super smooth differential action.
2) Easily fine adjustment thru' fiction plate, instead of grub screw on the stock diff.
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).

Better still, read all about it in mytsn.com below. D

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=433
Hi Nizee,

Which pulleys do you mean when you say "separate pulleys"?

I'd like to replace my standard diff with the FPS, so I can quickly change the diff settings and see how it affects the car - being pretty new to the RC scene, to have to keep rebuilding the rear end just to test a different setting is too much. Also because it takes quite a long time to change, I can't easily compare.

Thanks, Mark.
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Old 05-19-2003, 11:40 PM   #1450
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Default Membrane gluing Q

Hi,

Do you guys glue the membrane onto the shock cap, so that it forms an air tight seal? Or do you simply glue a couple of points on the membrane in order to affix it to the shock cap?

I'm still trying to find the best way of building shocks :-)

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-20-2003, 12:50 AM   #1451
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Hey guys.

<---------Proud owner of a Serpent 705
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Old 05-20-2003, 12:56 AM   #1452
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Default Re: Re: Re: FPS Differential

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Nizee,

Which pulleys do you mean when you say "separate pulleys"?

I'd like to replace my standard diff with the FPS, so I can quickly change the diff settings and see how it affects the car - being pretty new to the RC scene, to have to keep rebuilding the rear end just to test a different setting is too much. Also because it takes quite a long time to change, I can't easily compare.

Thanks, Mark.
Hey Mark, it's been sometime since you're here

Nizee was referring to the FPS diff (808390) not having the 46T (or the 47T) diff pulley. You need to get it separately.

46T - 801395 (to be used with the stock 23T brake pulley and 18T side pulley)

47T - 808396 (to be used with the optional 22T brake pulley and 17T side pulley)

Yes, I kinda agree with you that with the external adjustability of the FPS diff as you can quickly and effectively change the car's settings on the fly at the track.
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Old 05-20-2003, 01:03 AM   #1453
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Default Re: Membrane gluing Q

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi,

Do you guys glue the membrane onto the shock cap, so that it forms an air tight seal? Or do you simply glue a couple of points on the membrane in order to affix it to the shock cap?

I'm still trying to find the best way of building shocks :-)

Cheers, Mark.
I think this was mentioned before. I personally do not glue the membrane onto the shock cap contrary to what the manual recommends. The new membranes that come with the kit apparently sit into the shock cap better now and does not deform or does not sit out of place so easily. As a result, I don't get leaky shocks like I use to get in the early days with the PRO no matter what I did Just makes sure that the shock cap is tightly screwed in.

I think the new foam inserts for the shocks should make the shocks last longer and perform more consistantly before you need to rebuild it.
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Old 05-20-2003, 01:06 AM   #1454
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Hey guys.

<---------Proud owner of a Serpent 705
Hi there, welcome aboard
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Old 05-20-2003, 01:25 AM   #1455
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Default Re: Re: Membrane gluing Q

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think this was mentioned before. I personally do not glue the membrane onto the shock cap contrary to what the manual recommends. The new membranes that come with the kit apparently sit into the shock cap better now and does not deform or does not sit out of place so easily. As a result, I don't get leaky shocks like I use to get in the early days with the PRO no matter what I did Just makes sure that the shock cap is tightly screwed in.

I think the new foam inserts for the shocks should make the shocks last longer and perform more consistantly before you need to rebuild it.
The problem wasnt the membrane. It was the alloy caps. The first batches of 705's had a machine fault and the caps were the wrong size which accounted for most of the problem. I was lucky and got one of the batch with the new machined caps so I dont have any problems with the shocks. But like you, I dont glue them in. Only destroys them trying to get them back off to change the oil.

On Sunday at our Championship round there were 5 705 drivers all changing the caps to the new ones. Waste of time as the rain wasnt taking time to come down. I packed up and went home early enough to watch the F1.
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