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Old 05-18-2003, 11:15 PM   #1426
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InitialD
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
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Old 05-19-2003, 12:33 AM   #1427
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoyU
Seems to give the shocks a smoother action, more consistent. Prevents the shock piston from pushing the memebrane up into the cap and creating an air pocket where air and oil will mix and changing the oil viscocity. That's what I think, could be wrong.
Maybe InitialD has a better explanation.
Me better explanation?

I think you're right on this one. There seems to be very small but significant in terms of performance upgrades in the shocks department. First it was the purple o rings (909407). Now it is these sponges / foams in the shocks...

Anyway, they are used the same in the NTC3 shocks. I find that the NTC3 shocks are very smooth and consistant. So your explanation that the inserts provide smoother shock action does make sense

Instead of waiting for this part to be available, I'll probably try your idea of inserting fuel tubing. Else, I can get some of my NTC3 friends to donate some of these sponge inserts to a poor Serpent guy... Thanks for the input
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Old 05-19-2003, 12:34 AM   #1428
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoyU
InitialD
Wasn't those excerpts you posted from 2barjones from the early Serpent forums? I could be mistaken.
Yes, correct. They are from the non-HPI Serpent Version 7 forum... It does reveal how old we must have been now
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Old 05-19-2003, 12:51 AM   #1429
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Default Re: Re: Weights

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
Hmmm....the Titanium Pivot ball is so "EXPENSIVE" there, i can't believe it. Anyhow, let me know if you need cheaper ones.

35g higher on that FPS doesn't really matter to what the FPS have to offer!!! They are so smooth rotation and dirt can't really get into the balls compare to the stock diff. Compensate weight with the light alu screws and hollow mid shaft, etc...

BTW, don't you think the stock pivot ball (without shaving it down) on the FC steering going to make your car wider on the front? I have to shave mine a bit to 21.63mm total length to have smaller width and better handling.
Yes, I have always been an advocate of the FPS diff. The FPS diff gives a much smoother diff action that the ball diff. I still have one on my Impulse PRO. Just can't afford changing the ball diff on the 705 to an FPS diff

As for the pivot ball, I'm still using the stock steel pivot balls uncut. Yes, they make the front end wider. I screw mine in to the maximum and I get about 200 mm at best. How much is your track width? I know that a narower front end is better for steering. But I don't think that cutting it down shorter will make the front end narower. I have mine screwed in till there's hardly a gap between the knuckle and the tip of the arm where the pivot balls screw in.

I think that is why it is mentioned that the shortened pivot balls specifically meant for the new FC steering blocks are different in shape than the stock pivot balls. I think these new shortened pivot balls have larger head (just speculation and not confirmed yet) and there it sits in LESS deeper in the FC stering blocks and this allows the FC steering blocks to be mounted as close to the arms as possible giving less front track width. I think this explains why I was getting problems with the stock pivot balls keep popping out of the FC steering block because the stock ones sit in very deep in the FC steering block.

I have yet to try and use these shortened pivot balls. I hope when I get back, I have the time to work on it. I'll PM you on the titanium pivot balls if I'm interested
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Old 05-19-2003, 01:00 AM   #1430
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Default Re: Radio Interference

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Originally posted by khyber
Guys I have a radio interference slightly when one or two ppl playing together with me but it is getting out of control during the race when 10 ppl come in together by my side on the driver stand. Surprisingly it runs well when I run by myself. What seems to be the problem ???? Receiver ?? Transmitter??? I have changed everything else other than this two .... Help!!!!!
What frequency are you running? What radio gear are you running? I know that if a frequency is pretty close to one another, you may have disturbances. As an example, if you're running 40.67 MHz frequency and if another guy is running 40.675 MHz, although frequency is different but you may still get disturbances. I've heard before that frequencies like 40.675 MHz are called split crystals and they are not officially made because they cause problems like these.

Else like what nizee has suggested, use your friend's crystals or your friends's receiver / transmitter and mount it on your car. It could also be that some metal parts are touching on your car and creating harmonics which could also be a source for your disturbance problems. Check to see if everything is secured tightly and no metal parts have the tendency of vibrating.

What exhaust are you using? 2 piece type mounted with a silicone coupler? That could be a culprit too depending on how you mounted your exhaust manifold and pipe. Make sure that the exhaust manifiold and the pipe do not touch each other.
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Old 05-19-2003, 09:01 AM   #1431
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Me better explanation?

I think you're right on this one. There seems to be very small but significant in terms of performance upgrades in the shocks department. First it was the purple o rings (909407). Now it is these sponges / foams in the shocks...

Anyway, they are used the same in the NTC3 shocks. I find that the NTC3 shocks are very smooth and consistant. So your explanation that the inserts provide smoother shock action does make sense

Instead of waiting for this part to be available, I'll probably try your idea of inserting fuel tubing. Else, I can get some of my NTC3 friends to donate some of these sponge inserts to a poor Serpent guy... Thanks for the input
If you want to mimic the serpent part, what i did was use the center piece of the body cushion, that you suppose to throw it away when placing it into your body, but instead use that center round piece on that membrane. The adhesive side goes on the pivot. It is much softer then the fuel tubing without damaging it, yet allow the membrane to deform during compression, it function is to push back the membrane after compression to maintain the pressure.

Anyway, that is just my OPINION and theory, though i could be wrong, but what i learn that without that piece, i use to have my membrane deform that don't push back, everytime i re-built my shock. That small cushion helps.
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Old 05-19-2003, 10:55 AM   #1432
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Default FPS Differential

InitialD, or anyone else who may have the answer. Is there any modifications needed to switch from the stock ball diff, to the FPS diff? Also, what are the advantages with switching to the FPS diff?
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Old 05-19-2003, 02:49 PM   #1433
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Default Re: FPS Differential

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Originally posted by DSR
InitialD, or anyone else who may have the answer. Is there any modifications needed to switch from the stock ball diff, to the FPS diff? Also, what are the advantages with switching to the FPS diff?
No Modification is needed to change from Stock Diff to FPS Diff. But you do have to get separate pulleys for use only on the FPS, coz it doesn't come with it.

Advatange?
1) Super smooth differential action.
2) Easily fine adjustment thru' fiction plate, instead of grub screw on the stock diff.
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).

Better still, read all about it in mytsn.com below. D

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=433
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Old 05-19-2003, 06:49 PM   #1434
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ok guys finally done assembling my 705. I put together my 5 cell AAA recicver pack, what charge rate should I charge it at? One thing that I dont like about the car already there is no spot on the upper deck for a on off switch.
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Old 05-19-2003, 06:59 PM   #1435
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no switch on real race cars.. just use a servo extension and plug the pack in.. also .5 amps on the nimmhs
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Old 05-19-2003, 08:19 PM   #1436
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
If you want to mimic the serpent part, what i did was use the center piece of the body cushion, that you suppose to throw it away when placing it into your body, but instead use that center round piece on that membrane. The adhesive side goes on the pivot. It is much softer then the fuel tubing without damaging it, yet allow the membrane to deform during compression, it function is to push back the membrane after compression to maintain the pressure.

Anyway, that is just my OPINION and theory, though i could be wrong, but what i learn that without that piece, i use to have my membrane deform that don't push back, everytime i re-built my shock. That small cushion helps.
Nizee, what body cushion is this? Am I correct to assume that you're refferring to the circular foam cushion that you put on the body post to preserve the paint on the nice body shell from being scratched by the body clips? Yes, the center piece of that foam body cushion looks like a perfect fit. Thanks for the idea. Will try that out.
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Old 05-19-2003, 08:29 PM   #1437
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Nizee, what body cushion is this? Am I correct to assume that you're refferring to the circular foam cushion that you put on the body post to preserve the paint on the nice body shell from being scratched by the body clips? Yes, the center piece of that foam body cushion looks like a perfect fit. Thanks for the idea. Will try that out.
Yes, it is.
You can use 2 pcs in them IF you want.
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Old 05-19-2003, 08:39 PM   #1438
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Default Re: Re: FPS Differential

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
3) Less maintainance compare to stock (less re-built coz dirt hardly goes into the balls).
I just noticed that if you're the adventurous sort that will put the 50T diff pulley (909376 for ball diff, 909377 for FPS diff) to replace the stock 46T on the ball diff, you will notice that the opening of the hole where dust and dirt can get into the balls is somewhat closed. There is some kind of a lip which closes this opening and I notice that this is only found on the 50T diff pulley.
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Old 05-19-2003, 09:26 PM   #1439
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
no switch on real race cars.. just use a servo extension and plug the pack in.. also .5 amps on the nimmhs
Hey Andrew, I see that you're now into 1/5th scale already?
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Old 05-19-2003, 09:33 PM   #1440
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Quote:
Originally posted by tony montana
ok guys finally done assembling my 705. I put together my 5 cell AAA recicver pack, what charge rate should I charge it at? One thing that I dont like about the car already there is no spot on the upper deck for a on off switch.
Tony, if you're still inclined to put a switch on the 705, I think we discussed this just recently. Have a look at some pages back. I think Nizee uses a switch and showed a pic of how it was mounted at the side throttle servo. Someone (can't remember who) suggested to drill a hole in the radio tray to fit the switch. Anyway, whatever you do, just make sure you try to make a switch guard to that during race, your receiver unit switch would not get turned off by accident.

I've seen a switch made by KO which is good. Can't remember the part number. To switch on, you need to depress the button and hold it for a few seconds. I feel that is quite safe.

Michael Salven also uses a switch from Conrad Electronic in Germany at www.conrad.com. It is a micro switch (Deutsch: Sub-Miniaturschalter) which is water resistant. I don't know if it is the same as the KO one. Part number for the sub miniature switch is 705195 - 62. It's EURO 2.53. You cannot view the item but you can order it. I think it ships international.

I myself do not use a switch. Like what Andrew mentioned, I use a KO servo extension wire and plug it in manually.
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