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Old 04-25-2003, 07:13 PM   #1231
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Does anyone know what "801222" (FC-set) contains? Bearings, blocks and pivotballs, or?
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Old 04-25-2003, 07:30 PM   #1232
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the pads from ashford are excellent.. no fuel issues and they will not fade...
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Old 04-27-2003, 09:18 PM   #1233
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Quote:
Originally posted by johan
Does anyone know what "801222" (FC-set) contains? Bearings, blocks and pivotballs, or?
I believe they contain all.

1344 Ball - bearing 10 x 15 x 4 HS Purple (4)
801212 Steeringblock left FC
801213 Steeringblock right FC
801219 Pivotball 8.5mm short (4)
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Old 04-27-2003, 09:48 PM   #1234
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Another question Initial D,

the pivot balls that I ordered are the lightweigth ones #808347 not the short ones, so this pivot balls should do the work too? or i have to get the short ones version #801219

Ciao!!
I will go back and take a photo of the shortened pivot balls and the normal ones (assuming the size and shape are the same as the 808347) and scrutinise closely their shapes and sizes. My 801219 just arrived. Been busy the last weekend.

Apparently, MS mentioned on mytsn that the shortened pivot balls (801219) are different in shape than the normal ones. I think that may account to my problem that the FC steering knuckle comes out from the pivot ball when tapped sufficiently hard.

By the way, the length of the shortened pivot balls are 21.8 mm. I am currently using the stock pivot balls. I did not cut the length of the stock pivot balls to shorten it when using the FC steering blocks.

Attached is a picture I promised earlier comparing the normal and the new FC steering blocks (left). Unfortunately, these pictures were taken earlier when I did not have the shortened pivot balls installed.
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Old 04-27-2003, 09:51 PM   #1235
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Default Re: Re: Sorry I forgot this!!

Another picture from a different angle. This also shows the smaller size bearing it uses compares to the older steering knuckles.
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Old 04-28-2003, 05:23 PM   #1236
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Ok guys Im stuck I have a trinity reflex and a serpent impluse pro. I have been out of on road racing for about a year, and cant decide which of these two cars to run. I was leaning more towards the reflex since serpent has come out with the 705, the only reason being parts avaliblity for the sepent. So what should I do? I got the serpent in a trade about 6 months ago and then came the 705, do most of the 705 parts fit the impluse pro still? Help me out guys.
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Old 04-28-2003, 08:12 PM   #1237
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Tony, if you are currently finding Serpent parts very difficult to find in your neighbourhood, you can mail order. If that cannot be your option, I suggest you trade the Impulse PRO off for something else and use the Reflex NT. It's pretty clear cut...

Anyway, to answer your question, yes, most of the 705 parts will fit the Impulse PRO. The arms, knuckles, pivot pins, shock towers, belts and the other normal wearing parts are basically the same. Take note though that the pulleys and their aluminum pulley adapters and their shafts are different. The 705 borrows these parts from the 235 mm Impact.

The only difference between the Impulse PRO and the 705 are the upper radio deck, aluminum radio tray support, chassis, tank, rear brake plate with sway bar, left side belt tensioner + stiffener, right stiffener, rear bulkheads, two speed gearbox, Centax II clutch, rear ball diff and the shocks.

You can still use the old shocks on the PRO. There is actually no performance difference between the new and the old shocks. Just that the new shocks are very much easier to assemble.

The old Impulse PRO is still every bit as competitive as the 705. I still keep my PRO. Just that I have changed certain parts like in the drive train to make it similar to the 705 so that it makes things easier for maintenance.

Let me know if you're stuck and you're faced with the LHS only supplying 705 specific parts... Tell me what is broken or what you need to replace on the Impulse PRO and I will walk you through and tell you how to put those 705 parts on the Impulse PRO Good luck and cheers.
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Old 04-28-2003, 09:48 PM   #1238
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I am building my 705 right now and am having trouble with step 4.3 part 1. The part where I am supposed to snap the little ball thing into the top arm is giving me lots of trouble, I cannot snap it in there nomatter what I do, i've tried with all my different wrenches and pliars and I just can't snap it in there. Please give me some tips on how to get it to snap in, thanks.

Last edited by Accord; 04-28-2003 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 04-28-2003, 10:09 PM   #1239
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Accord, when I first built my Impulse PRO, I had the same problems as you did with these pivot balls.

Serpent came out with a special tool to fit these pivot balls into the upper rear arms the same time when the 705 came out. It should be included in the kit. Check the bags where the supplied allen keys are. I think it's there. Part number is 902310.

As in the picture, you simply screw the allen into the small aluminum block. As you screw it in, the pivot ball will be pressed into the upper rear arm. Once the pivot ball snaps in fully, unscrew the allen out of the aluminum block

http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=2636
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Old 04-28-2003, 10:42 PM   #1240
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Thank you so much! I remember seeing that piece earlier during the assembly and couldn't figure out what it was!
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Old 04-29-2003, 01:00 AM   #1241
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No problem... I would not have known how to use the tool too if I hadn't read it somewhere (forgot where it was)
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:01 AM   #1242
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I have run into yet another problem, I am on step 6.2 the radio plate assembly and when I put the radio plate onto the chassis, the bottom of the fuel tank hits the top of the battery making it virtually impossible for me to have the radio plate on flush, I can't even get to the screws that's how far it is sticking up. Any ideas on how I can fix this little problem?

Also, the servo wires and whatnot are extremely long and everything is so close together, any ideas on where I should route the wires and how to do it?

Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:42 AM   #1243
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If the tank sits OK on the radio plate alone, I would think that the AAA batteries in the battery holder are not arranged or soldered correctly in order to get the most optimum shape and size. Check the batteries in the battery holder. Make sure they sit fully in. I know because I had my battery configuration slightly off and had to pay the price with a broken tank when I tried to forced on it

I don't have a picture to show you how I route the wires but what I do is to bundle them up with a cable tire and insert it in the little space between the throttle servo and the tank.

What I do to any other extra wires (if any) especially for the steering servo is I coil them up nicely on a shaft of a screw driver and take a heater (not too hot) to have the coil formation stay in shape. Take the screw driver shaft out and then take a cable tie and loop it in the coil to make the wires stay coiled
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:57 AM   #1244
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Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it!

My next question is, when I put the steering tire rods on and attach them to each wheel and then to the servo, the tie rods actually hit the front belt. The balls on the servo horn are pointing down towards the ground just like it shows in the manual, but with that configuration it hits the belt. Should I flip the ball ends up instead of down? Anything else I should do?

Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2003, 03:13 AM   #1245
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Yes, the illustration picture in the manual is correct ONLY if you use a Sanwa / Airtronics servo... This has been posted here before.

For other servo brands, you need to install the servo horn with the balls facing UP. By doing this, the ball joints will rub on the servo horn a little at the edge. Dremel the end of the ball joints so that there is no binding.

I'll post this old picture of my Impulse PRO again for your reference.
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