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Old 04-23-2003, 11:48 PM   #1216
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Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
Can this be applied to Pro, if yes what is the effect?
Yes, it can be applied to the PRO since the front of the PRO is almost the same as the front of the 705...

By adding shims, you basically alter the front roll center. A higher roll center in the front provides less front grip and hence more grip in the rear.
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Old 04-24-2003, 12:43 AM   #1217
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, it can be applied to the PRO since the front of the PRO is almost the same as the front of the 705...

By adding shims, you basically alter the front roll center. A higher roll center in the front provides less front grip and hence more grip in the rear.
Thanks for that infos, cheers!
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Old 04-24-2003, 07:45 AM   #1218
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Default shims...

i'd try using .060 to .075 shims first...
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:04 PM   #1219
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Default Re: shims...

Quote:
Originally posted by Apex
i'd try using .060 to .075 shims first...
That's in inches right? That comes to about 1.5 to 2 mm which is what the factory guys are testing at the moment.
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:10 PM   #1220
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Default CVDs anyone?

Apparently, Serpent is in the process of testing out new front CVDs for the 705 / Impulse. They say it should be out soon. The test so far looks promising.
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:27 PM   #1221
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Initial D,

Have you test the modified steering blocks #801212 and 801213?? did I have to change something in my setup ?? Julius says that it gives a little more steering ,,
Thanks God for hearing my prayers!! Original CVD'S from Serpent!!
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:08 PM   #1222
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Cool

Hhhhmmmm...CVD's for the 705.......
Never had a problem with dog bones poping out like another car{MTX-3}!!
Also having the front Pro drive shafts (801220) no more bent dog bones.

paulfitipauldi,
I think the new steering blocks (801212) will be to brittle on an impact or crash. They are smaller and come from the X-ray which is a lighter car then the 705. This will work good for pro driver like Ralph Bruch!
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:12 PM   #1223
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Default Short FC Steering Review

Yes, Paul, I have been using the FC steering for about close to 4 weeks already... Just didn't have the time to give a short feedback on this...

I can concur with what Julius has mentioned about it on mytsn. It gives a lot of controlled steering especially in the mid corner without making the rear end swing out. I'm actually quite happy using it on small as well as large tracks.

I was initially having slight problems on the new steering block. Being cheap (well, it does not help if the LHS does not have the part also ), I used the normal pivot balls together with the new FC steering blocks. Went to a bearing shop and got 4 pieces of 10 x 15 x 4 metal shielded bearings. Couldn't get hold of rubber sealed ones... The new FC steering block seems better built. Quality is always good but the construction looks more rigid than the older normal steering blocks. The knuckles also seem to not rub against the wheel. Well, this may be due to the Jaco Nitro Shoes wheels that I am currently using. They are pretty hard and they do not warp so easily.

Anyway, I had to screw in the pivot ball very deep in and even then, I was getting a front track width of 200mm. No less than I would want to have... I think the problem is due to the old pivot balls that I was using...

The other problem was on a small technical track that I run on, if I scuff and brush hard enough the front wheels, the pivot ball will somehow come off the steering block... The result would be that the front dogbones will also come off naturally... But then, I'm actually happy to report that on a high speed track, these new FC steering blocks hold up and did not cause any problems I was facing when running on a small technical track. Well, it could very well be that the new pivot balls are required because they are shapped differently and do not come off so easily.

I'll post some pictures to compare the normal steering blocks and the new FC ones when I get back. Look out for these

On the subject of universals, I actually do not have any problems with the existing dogbones. In fact, they work just fine. Put in some fuel tubing or some o rings to fill the spacing, maintain a smaller front trackwidth and limit the steering throw is what I do to keep the dogbones in place. And yes, avoid the side boards too
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:18 PM   #1224
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Hhhhmmmm...CVD's for the 705.......
Never had a problem with dog bones poping out like another car{MTX-3}!!
Also having the front Pro drive shafts (801220) no more bent dog bones.

paulfitipauldi,
I think the new steering blocks (801212) will be to brittle on an impact or crash. They are smaller and come from the X-ray which is a lighter car then the 705. This will work good for pro driver like Ralph Bruch!
Yup, me too. But I think with a one way front diff, the universals make for a more smooth rolling action.

The new FC steering blocks are not brittle. In fact from the 4 or so weeks that I have been using it, I must say that the hold up pretty well. They are smaller and lighter but not necessarily weaker... You're talking about Serpent parts and build quality here anyway

Yes, I believe the new shape and geometry of the FC steering blocks were derived from the XRay ones. I have not physically seen an XRay steering block but I think the new FC steering blocks are beefier. Heck, XRay also came out with new type of steering blocks which I think is suppose to have the same function as what the new FC steering blocks is giving the 705 / Impulse...
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:33 PM   #1225
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InitialD,
Thanks for the input on the new FC steering blocks!
Yeah, you would have to get smaller bearings and piviot balls for them.

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Old 04-24-2003, 11:38 PM   #1226
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
InitialD,
Thanks for the input on the new FC steering blocks!
Yeah, you would have to get smaller bearings and piviot balls for them.

Yup I know... Our LHS only brought in the FC steering blocks. The pivot balls did not arrive. My itchy finger could not resist trying out the new steering blocks... Besides, I also thought I could get away with the new pivot balls. They are pretty expensive.

Bearings? I always get RC related bearings from bearing shops. LHS always chargers more for them.
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Old 04-25-2003, 10:11 AM   #1227
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I thought I read somewhere that all you needed to convert to the FC steering blocks were the shorter pivot balls. I hadn't heard anything about new bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I was planning on ordering these soon.
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Old 04-25-2003, 10:26 AM   #1228
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Default OOP's

Nevermind that last post. You need bearing #1344 10x15x4. You need two sets of those bearings total.
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:24 PM   #1229
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Thanks, Initial D,

I already make the order and ,, just like yesterday my lhs call me that my order have just arrive

#1344 10 x 15 x 4 (back order)

# 801212 and 801213 (arrive)

#808347 Pivot Balls (arrive) $40.00 cost!!

#801321 Drive shafts rear (arrive)

#801314 wheel axels rear (arrive)

#801221 Drive shafts front (arrive)

#801214 Wheel axle front (arrive)


Don't worry Punisher , someones have the skills by nature, someones have to develop that skill, and someones simply doesn't have the skills,, i'm with the guys that have to develop the skills with a little of nature, and I'm working on that, you now how?? PRACTICING!!

One question?? how you guys practice , if anyone of you does? I don't have a permanent track near home, so I took out my HPI micro machine and spend a complete hour of practicing every day!!

ciao!!
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:34 PM   #1230
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Talking Sorry I forgot this!!

Another question Initial D,

the pivot balls that I ordered are the lightweigth ones #808347 not the short ones, so this pivot balls should do the work too? or i have to get the short ones version #801219

Ciao!!
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