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Old 04-15-2003, 09:09 PM   #1141
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Default Re: Front Sway Bar

Quote:
Originally posted by DSR
I'm a bit confused about how the front sway bars sit. If you take the front bumper off, and you are looking at the sway bar from the front, are the bars supposed to be sitting straight horizontal?
Because mine are slightly facing up, where the male and female ends meet. It seems to me that maybe I pressed the bars to far into the plastic sway bar holders. How far are you supposed to press the bars into the holders, before tightening the grub screws?

I also have sorta the same problem with the rear sway bar. The ball ends of the bar are somewhat facing upwards. Though, all the pictures I have seen seem to look this way.

Please let me know if either of these problems really are problems. I seem to worry abit much about such small things, oh well.
This is what I do...

For the front sway bar, make sure that the female part of the blade is in the center. Align the male part and once you think you got the right setting, tighten the grub screw partially.

The sway bar assembly should make both left and right sets of the front arms to swing fully without any binding. Take off the shocks to make this more noticeable.

When the front arms are at the lowest position, make sure that the male part of the sway bar is still in the cup.

If the movement seems binding and seems difficult to get the arms to move downwards, the male blade is too deep into the mating cup.

After you have set this, fix the shocks back again and take a droop gauge to check if both left and right arms are giving equal pressures.

If they are not, then turn the eccentric knob that goes behind the plastic sway bar holder (or the optional aluminum holder 909218) till both sides give equal pressures.

As for the rear sway bars, just follow the manual for the length of the linkages (47mm). Make sure that the sway bar is locked in position on top of the brake plate where there are already grooves for it. Secure it snugly (not too tight) with the button head allen and the nylon shims. You should be ok.
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:16 PM   #1142
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Everything seems fine to me from what you are saying. The front sway bar setting is more a preference to how hard you like the front end of the car. Pushing the bars all the way into the plastic mounts will make it softer feeling due to more movement and vice versa.
If you push both bars all the way into each other, the front end would seem very hard to move... But don't let that fool you because that is what you call binding...

And the friction that you get because of this is actually not meant to be a function setting of the sway bar itsself. The vertical (90 degree, hard) or horizontal (0 degree, soft) of the front sway bar is what determines how hard or soft the front end of the car would be.
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:22 PM   #1143
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
Thanks for the tips. I'm using Jaco too and they are fat tires compare to Ellegi or others. The problem are we here are running on parking lot race, which do not have really good traction, furthermore it kinda rough surface.
What do you mean by fat tires? Wider? They have about the same diameter (approx 65 mm out of the box) as the Ellegis and others.

I know that in the states and other places that the Nitro Shoes are more expensive than the rest but over here, they are much cheaper than Ellegis and about the same price as the cheapest foam available here... (about USD 18.4211 total for a set of front + rear foams).
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Old 04-15-2003, 11:55 PM   #1144
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The ofna truer is about 240 USD, buy the hudy bit sepately, it cuts a lot better, still the total setup is a lot less than the hudy truer. For the cost of two good servos, you can have a truer and use your drill to make holes...
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Old 04-15-2003, 11:58 PM   #1145
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A set of ellegi foams should not cost more than 10-12 USD if you buy a bunch(say 20-40 pairs), You can mail order from HK for about 7-8 USD a pair.
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Old 04-16-2003, 05:47 AM   #1146
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
A set of ellegi foams should not cost more than 10-12 USD if you buy a bunch(say 20-40 pairs), You can mail order from HK for about 7-8 USD a pair.
Is this Ellegi 6 spoke like the stock tires in 705. Last time I bought some they tires, they gave me Ellegi's and Jaco, but it was not the 6 spoke.

I am not sure if u notice I forgot what does it call for those rims. Its not the 6 spoke Ellegi the rims are white and they are a lot of spoke. Anyway, my points is they are easily reformed for some reason. The tires does not stay the same, and u can see the spoke bent about five or six of its spoke are easily bent.

I hope I can get the 6 spoke in that price, I saw a Jaco w/ 6 spoke do u think they will have them there?
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Old 04-16-2003, 08:48 AM   #1147
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It don't know for sure about the jaco's but the ellegi tires now come with a white dish rim, that rim is the way to go. It is much more durable than the spoked rims, less flex and never gets wobbly. They are also a little bit cheaper than the spoked rims, easy choice....
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:07 AM   #1148
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What do you mean by fat tires? Wider? They have about the same diameter (approx 65 mm out of the box) as the Ellegis and others.

I know that in the states and other places that the Nitro Shoes are more expensive than the rest but over here, they are much cheaper than Ellegis and about the same price as the cheapest foam available here... (about USD 18.4211 total for a set of front + rear foams).
The way i look at it, it seem to me the Jaco is thickier then others. Maybe i don't see it right. Nevertheless, i always true them down to 62mm so i don't really bother the thickness, but before, i did when i get a lot of chunk on un-true tires.

Last edited by nizee; 04-16-2003 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:11 AM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
The ofna truer is about 240 USD, buy the hudy bit sepately, it cuts a lot better, still the total setup is a lot less than the hudy truer. For the cost of two good servos, you can have a truer and use your drill to make holes...
Thats the gd way to put it. I'm happy with my Corally Truer, almost identical.
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:13 AM   #1150
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
A set of ellegi foams should not cost more than 10-12 USD if you buy a bunch(say 20-40 pairs), You can mail order from HK for about 7-8 USD a pair.
Its almost cost the same after u add the shipping cost. Did that.
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:15 AM   #1151
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YES!
Jaco tires are very "Meaty" with their tires!! I beleave they are like 65-66mm in diameter.


Also fmolzer is right about dish rims are alot durable than the spoked rims!!

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Old 04-16-2003, 04:39 PM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If you push both bars all the way into each other, the front end would seem very hard to move... But don't let that fool you because that is what you call binding...

And the friction that you get because of this is actually not meant to be a function setting of the sway bar itsself. The vertical (90 degree, hard) or horizontal (0 degree, soft) of the front sway bar is what determines how hard or soft the front end of the car would be.
Yeah, I know. But I like to push them together for some tracks to get the front end completely locked up solid with only wishbone flex. In saying that, you are correct about it not being a proper setting for the bar and I should have mentioned that.
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Old 04-16-2003, 04:44 PM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
The ofna truer is about 240 USD, buy the hudy bit sepately, it cuts a lot better, still the total setup is a lot less than the hudy truer. For the cost of two good servos, you can have a truer and use your drill to make holes...
Maybe you could send us over a couple of your $120 servos. That wouldnt even look at a good KO Fet over here. Same goes for a tire truer. You got to remember that what you guys pay in dollars we pay the same in pounds and at $1.60 - 1.00 thats a brave hike in dollar price.

But in saying that, I do have all the tools and gadgets (set up stations, tire truers, etc). I'll use the truer at the track if necessary but at home I have the gigs sitting ready and it is easier for me to use than unpacking lots of bags to get everything out.
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Old 04-16-2003, 08:43 PM   #1154
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
The way i look at it, it seem to me the Jaco is thickier then others. Maybe i don't see it right. Nevertheless, i always true them down to 62mm so i don't really bother the thickness, but before, i did when i get a lot of chunk on un-true tires.
I also do not have the luxury of a tire truer. I try to run them down like what modellor suggested (great minds think alike ) and keep them when the diameter is about right.

But I find that even when I use them out of the box, the Nitro Shoes tend to chunk less than say the Ellegis or the UFRA tires. Maybe it's just me...

Another brand to try is Speedmind. I was told that the rims are tough are the foams last long and provide good traction. They come is dish type rims. However, note that for Speedmind, the front wheels will rub against the knuckles... The rear wheels are ok. So beware. I will try the rear tires only.
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Old 04-16-2003, 08:45 PM   #1155
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
YES!
Jaco tires are very "Meaty" with their tires!! I beleave they are like 65-66mm in diameter.
Well, all foams come at 65 to 66 mm out of the box don't they?

It's a little habit I do after I open any new box of foams or even after a full tank run, I'll take my trusty calipers and take tire diemeter measurements and scribble them down on the tire rims with a marker...

I'm still trying to wear the Jaco 40 fronts to a reasonable size. It's still at 65 mm
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