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Old 04-14-2003, 08:36 PM   #1126
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Quote:
Originally posted by khyber
One question regarding this tyre size, last week I tried running bigger tyre in the rear but it did not work the rear seems went faster than front and in result the whole car run in a very jerky manner. Should I always run with the same tyre diameter everytime or there is a formula to calculate the tyre diameter difference between front and rear . I did that because I thought after a few lap the rear will wear faster than the front and giving me the same diameter at the end.....
How much bigger tires in the rear did you run? Ideally, you should run with the same tire diameter in the front and rear (assuming your front and rear internal drive ratio are the same).

The feedback has been that a lot of people run 1mm smaller tires in the front when compared to the rear. Not more than that. It gives some kind of push and like what you have mentioned, the rear tires will wear faster and in the middle of a long main, you will find that the front and rear will end up about equal diameter giving you optimum 1:1 overdrive.

Look back a few pages. I believe I listed out some formulas to calculate your tire diameters. Else, you can look here in the link below;

http://www.home.zonnet.nl/realrolfje...t/overdriv.htm
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Old 04-14-2003, 10:25 PM   #1127
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Default Adjusting 2 speed clutch for Pro

What is the correct sequence to adjust the 2 speed clutch for Pro (the one with 4 screws adjustment). Sometimes I can get lost tune my 2-speed.... Anyone ?
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:42 PM   #1128
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Default Re: Adjusting 2 speed clutch for Pro

Quote:
Originally posted by khyber
What is the correct sequence to adjust the 2 speed clutch for Pro (the one with 4 screws adjustment). Sometimes I can get lost tune my 2-speed.... Anyone ?
The 2 speed clutch for the PRO would come with a lighter spring (801412). Tighten the 2 side screws consisting of the springs fully and back out about 6 turns out. If you are using a lower pinion, you probably want the 2 speed to engage earlier and may want to go somewhere like 6.5 turns out.

For the set screws that locks the steel ball bearings in the shoe, tighten them slowly and equally on opposite sides so that the shaft adapter is snug and not loose which may let the shaft adapter rotate from side to side.

Once that is set, put the shaft adapter together with the 2 speed white shoes into the bell housing together with the pin. Rotate the bell housing containing the 2nd speed spur. The bell housing should rotate freely without any drag.

Now on the bell housing there is a single hole for you to put a 3 mm allen to adjust the clutch shoe spacing againstthe bell. Tighten by screwing in on one side a quarter turns at a time. Check the spacing by rotating the 2nd speed spur bell housing. Continue tightening and checking the spacing at the same time. Once the bell starts to develop resistance to rotate, back out the screw by HALF a turn out. One side is set.

Now do the same for the other 2nd half of the shoe.

Sometimes, when the 2 speed setting is way off, the problem could be that the shoe is slipping due to oil and grease entering the bell. Check.

On the 705, there are only 2 screws to adjust the tension of the springs. Unlike the Impulse PRO, there are no set screws to adjust the spacing of the shoe against the 2nd speed spur bell housing.
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Old 04-15-2003, 01:46 AM   #1129
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Yo InitialD ..... You are my man ! Cool now I can rest at ease ... but as I mentioned earlier I run with 12/15 pinion do I need to get it engaged earlier ? I guess so.... what a stupid question
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:20 AM   #1130
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Default Fast Coming Out of Corner Setup

Guys I run with (in F/R order) -2/+3 droop , 6/7 ride height, -4/-4 camber, +2/-2 toe , orange spring (4 wheels), 4 shock holes (4 shocks), most vertical hole position for shock tower, 0° rear rollbar, 45 °front roll bar and I have a slight understeer on power and sluggish response coming out of corner .... What is wrong ??
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:41 AM   #1131
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Default Re: Fast Coming Out of Corner Setup

Quote:
Originally posted by khyber
Guys I run with (in F/R order) -2/+3 droop , 6/7 ride height, -4/-4 camber, +2/-2 toe , orange spring (4 wheels), 4 shock holes (4 shocks), most vertical hole position for shock tower, 0° rear rollbar, 45 °front roll bar and I have a slight understeer on power and sluggish response coming out of corner .... What is wrong ??
Sluggish response coming out of the corners is due to the shocks being too soft. Try using harder suspension. No need to stand up the shocks. Use harder springs (yellow or even red springs) and keep it slightly horizontal to get more side bite when you corner.

As for the on power steering, have you tried softening the front sway bar? Try 0 degree.

On the rear, try a harder sway bar setting than 0 degree.

You could also try less rear toe-in of say 1.5.
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:16 AM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Sorry should have said in lbs.
Anyone?
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Old 04-15-2003, 11:11 AM   #1133
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Default Front Sway Bar

I'm a bit confused about how the front sway bars sit. If you take the front bumper off, and you are looking at the sway bar from the front, are the bars supposed to be sitting straight horizontal?
Because mine are slightly facing up, where the male and female ends meet. It seems to me that maybe I pressed the bars to far into the plastic sway bar holders. How far are you supposed to press the bars into the holders, before tightening the grub screws?

I also have sorta the same problem with the rear sway bar. The ball ends of the bar are somewhat facing upwards. Though, all the pictures I have seen seem to look this way.

Please let me know if either of these problems really are problems. I seem to worry abit much about such small things, oh well.
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:20 PM   #1134
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Everything seems fine to me from what you are saying. The front sway bar setting is more a preference to how hard you like the front end of the car. Pushing the bars all the way into the plastic mounts will make it softer feeling due to more movement and vice versa.

The rear one does sit high at the ballends with the manufacture settings. Nothing to worry about.
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Old 04-15-2003, 02:05 PM   #1135
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YAH!!!!!! I JUST FOUND OUT THAT I GOT MY JOB THIS SUMMER!!!!!!! SO IM GOING TO HAVE A LOT OF MONEY FOR MY NEW 705... I I MIGHT BE GETTIN MINE OFF OF EBAY THIS WEEK!!!!! YAH!!! IM SO EXCITED!!!!1
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Old 04-15-2003, 02:30 PM   #1136
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Larger diameter tires provide higher top speed but NOT acceleration. I think what Andrew reffered to smaller tires as being faster is you get better acceleration.

Well, I also notice that when I use UFRA or Ellegi type tires, they chunk even when you do not hit the wall and boards... Try Jaco Nitro Shoes. So far, I have been very pleased No chunking even when you brush against the sideboards. Low wear rate and the rims are hard and they do not warp easily.
Thanks for the tips. I'm using Jaco too and they are fat tires compare to Ellegi or others. The problem are we here are running on parking lot race, which do not have really good traction, furthermore it kinda rough surface.
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:13 PM   #1137
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Any of you guys using a truer on foam tires? If so, any one have a special file or rasp for finishing the edges?
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Old 04-15-2003, 03:39 PM   #1138
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Just use a fine sandpaper to round the edges.

But why spend all that money on a tire truer? Just run the tires in practise sessions until you get different sets down to the correct sizes and utilise the benefits of using the full tire. I normally would run new sets in practise sessions or club days and then when then after a couple of runs I will change the rears to a new set to get a the correct diameter difference. Then I always have several sets that are ready to run in the main races without the added expense of a truer.

If I do have to true tires due to wearing more on one tire then I simply bolt the wheels onto my vertical drill and use a specially adapted sanding block to take them down to the correct sizes. This is a lot cheaper and has been in operation long before truers where even thought off.
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Old 04-15-2003, 04:55 PM   #1139
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I can dig the saving $$$ aspect of your reply. I have been running new sets in practice, qualifiers and mains for a few years, doing like you mentioned.
I have been up against some pretty stiff competition lately. It's a bit much adjusting ride height to fit the tire size. I just got the Team Cobra AC truer, and 50 pairs of foams, so I will qualify with cut tires, race with new cut tires, and give the used ones to the less fortunate guys.
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Old 04-15-2003, 08:54 PM   #1140
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
I can dig the saving $$$ aspect of your reply. I have been running new sets in practice, qualifiers and mains for a few years, doing like you mentioned.
I have been up against some pretty stiff competition lately. It's a bit much adjusting ride height to fit the tire size. I just got the Team Cobra AC truer, and 50 pairs of foams, so I will qualify with cut tires, race with new cut tires, and give the used ones to the less fortunate guys.
Hi! How the Team Cobra tire truer? I'm planning to get one but don't want to spend that much on those Hudy type. Thanx for the help!
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