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Old 04-09-2003, 09:43 PM   #1066
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

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Originally posted by InitialD


You will also need to mod your 2 speed shaft to take the 17T side pulley and the aluminum pulley adapter... The 22T brake pulley is also mounted differently. You need a pulley adapter for that too...

InitialD,

Why would I have to modify the 2 speed shaft to take the 17T side pulley? Or are you just talking about the Impulse PRO?
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Old 04-09-2003, 10:05 PM   #1067
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

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Originally posted by DSR
InitialD,

Why would I have to modify the 2 speed shaft to take the 17T side pulley? Or are you just talking about the Impulse PRO?
Sorry Yes the 2 speed shaft modification for the 17T pulley should only be for those running Impulse PRO
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Old 04-09-2003, 10:47 PM   #1068
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

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Originally posted by khyber
Centax Clutch ? ..... hmmmmm but we run our car in a small and technical track here. The gearing for centax seems to high and the acceleration seems slow and no power coming out of the corner. That is why I use combination of 12/15 and 50/47 gearing with standard clutch. Could that be the reason I broke my spring? I don't think I broke my spring that often when I use 13/16 and 50/47 gearing before
I saw a couple of guys in SG run Centax on RCSpeedway when i was there on business trip, apparently 1 of them (Personal old friend of mine, Brian) told me personally he have no problem running the Centax I and now the Centax II on that really small RCSpeedway track. I think u can find him at hobbylink always. Like we all, he did not follow the distance recommend on the manual, but shorter.

Like InitialD said, you may have too much slipping on the clutch. Just Maybe. As i know, SG love turbo engine. I may be wrong though on you.
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Old 04-09-2003, 10:56 PM   #1069
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

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Originally posted by nizee
I saw a couple of guys in SG run Centax on RCSpeedway when i was there on business trip, apparently 1 of them (Personal old friend of mine, Brian) told me personally he have no problem running the Centax I and now the Centax II on that really small RCSpeedway track. I think u can find him at hobbylink always. Like we all, he did not follow the distance recommend on the manual, but shorter.

Like InitialD said, you may have too much slipping on the clutch. Just Maybe. As i know, SG love turbo engine. I may be wrong though on you.
Oh yeah... i think he won couple of Hobbylink races with with his 705 using Centax clutch and he use gear ratio that InitialD had stated above. I had mine that way too, apparently the only problem i face is when the rear tire worn off first, i have front overdrive. I just have get use to it.
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:33 PM   #1070
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

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Originally posted by nizee
Oh yeah... i think he won couple of Hobbylink races with with his 705 using Centax clutch and he use gear ratio that InitialD had stated above. I had mine that way too, apparently the only problem i face is when the rear tire worn off first, i have front overdrive. I just have get use to it.
Well, the rear tires will always tend to wear faster than the front... The trick is to run 1 or 2 mm more in the rear before you begin a long main. Also, set your car so that you can escape with the highest shore number you can use in the rear. But then again at the end of the main, you will still find that the rear tires will end up smaller...

I'm actually thinking of running 18T side pulley instead of the 17T side pulley together with the 47T and 22T. This creates a permanent overdrive and in order to run a 1:1 overdrive, you can run a smaller front tire (). For the same tire rollout, the smaller front tire will rotate more and this makes the front tire "work" and wear more so much so that it will equal the wear rate of the rear tires. That should make for constant tire rollout and overdrive. This is just some thought of mine seeing all the other 1/8 th scale cars have smaller front and larger rear tires...
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:41 PM   #1071
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That's sounds interesting. Let us how it works out
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:41 PM   #1072
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
I saw a couple of guys in SG run Centax on RCSpeedway when i was there on business trip, apparently 1 of them (Personal old friend of mine, Brian) told me personally he have no problem running the Centax I and now the Centax II on that really small RCSpeedway track. I think u can find him at hobbylink always. Like we all, he did not follow the distance recommend on the manual, but shorter.

Like InitialD said, you may have too much slipping on the clutch. Just Maybe. As i know, SG love turbo engine. I may be wrong though on you.
Ahhh, Bryan... I actually argued (well discussed would be a better word) with him one time that the Centax clutch can be tuned for a small tracks. To say the least, he said that it was unnessary to run a Centax clutch because it was complicated to set up. Also, he claimed that the 2 piece clutch shoe on the Impulse PRO was sufficient and should work better for smaller tracks. Look what he's running now
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:48 PM   #1073
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoyU
InitialD
That's sounds interesting. Let us how it works out
The problem is getting a tire truer

Running what I have suggested (i.e. 18T, 22T and 47T), you need to run a 4 mm split between the front and rear.

There is actually another way by using 17T, 22T and 47T but changing the front side mid pulley from stock 24T to 23T will let you run a 3 mm split between the front and rear tires.
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:52 PM   #1074
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Originally posted by InitialD
I agree with modellor on this one... The 2143 servos are one of the fastest out there and prefered by most drivers.

The old Futaba servos with plastic gears strip easily but the newer ones seem to hold well (touch wood). The 9450 and 9451 digital servos are excellent but I cannot say for the lower analog range i.e. 9402.
The 9402 servos works great. Had them on my Impact, now its on my Impulse. With all the abuse I put them thru its working great
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Old 04-09-2003, 11:56 PM   #1075
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The problem is getting a tire truer

Running what I have suggested (i.e. 18T, 22T and 47T), you need to run a 4 mm split between the front and rear.

There is actually another way by using 17T, 22T and 47T but changing the front side mid pulley from stock 24T to 23T will let you run a 3 mm split between the front and rear tires.
I have no problem getting hold of a tire truer. I just need to get the 17t pulley and adapter. Is it neccessary to get the adapter for the 24 t mid pulley or can I just use what originally came with the Impulse?
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Old 04-10-2003, 12:19 AM   #1076
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoyU
I have no problem getting hold of a tire truer. I just need to get the 17t pulley and adapter. Is it neccessary to get the adapter for the 24 t mid pulley or can I just use what originally came with the Impulse?
The original 24T mid pulley on the original Impulse PRO can still be used. No need to change that.

However, the 17T side pulley needs the aluminum pulley adapter and you need to grind a flat spot at the edge of the 2 speed shaft for the aluminum pulley adapter's grub screw to lock on.
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Old 04-10-2003, 02:35 AM   #1077
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Thumbs up Scrapping Chassis

Dudes thanks for all the input..... InitialD I will get the 705 this weekend and apply all your suggestion

BTW ... here is another food for discussion , I am running 6 and 7 ride height (F and R) and -1 and 3 droop (F/R) with orange spring plus 4 holes damping. The question is , why I scrapped my chassis more than my other fellow racer sometimes my nice polished rb x 12 pipe also got scratched??? Something wrong with my driving or setup. Performance wise I am quite happy with this setup which garnered top b-main at the last serpent race
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Old 04-10-2003, 03:01 AM   #1078
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Originally posted by khyber
Dudes thanks for all the input..... InitialD I will get the 705 this weekend and apply all your suggestion

BTW ... here is another food for discussion , I am running 6 and 7 ride height (F and R) and -1 and 3 droop (F/R) with orange spring plus 4 holes damping. The question is , why I scrapped my chassis more than my other fellow racer sometimes my nice polished rb x 12 pipe also got scratched??? Something wrong with my driving or setup. Performance wise I am quite happy with this setup which garnered top b-main at the last serpent race
When the chassis gets scrapped like that even at that ride height, I would be inclined to think that there is either excessive amount of body roll or the track conditions are pretty bumpy. It is pretty normal for the chassis to get scrapped but I think orange springs with 4 holes in the piston shocks will make the car too sluggish in and out of corners. The car will bottom out when you accelerate and will dive too much to the front when you apply brake or scrape the sides when you corner hard. It is not too good if you scrape the chassis on the track when you corner because when the bottom of your chassis hits the track, the suspension hits infinity and there is a high chance that your car will spin out...

Running foams you can live with harder springs. Softer springs like the orange ones are more suited for rubber tire type of setup.

I believe you are already running very soft foams (35 shore front and rear?) which should already give you enough traction... You could very well then try out harder suspension springs...
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Old 04-10-2003, 09:38 AM   #1079
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ahhh, Bryan... I actually argued (well discussed would be a better word) with him one time that the Centax clutch can be tuned for a small tracks. To say the least, he said that it was unnessary to run a Centax clutch because it was complicated to set up. Also, he claimed that the 2 piece clutch shoe on the Impulse PRO was sufficient and should work better for smaller tracks. Look what he's running now
I guess he only start to realize the power of Centax !!
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Old 04-10-2003, 09:55 AM   #1080
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Broken Pro Clutch Spring

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, the rear tires will always tend to wear faster than the front... The trick is to run 1 or 2 mm more in the rear before you begin a long main. Also, set your car so that you can escape with the highest shore number you can use in the rear. But then again at the end of the main, you will still find that the rear tires will end up smaller...

I'm actually thinking of running 18T side pulley instead of the 17T side pulley together with the 47T and 22T. This creates a permanent overdrive and in order to run a 1:1 overdrive, you can run a smaller front tire (). For the same tire rollout, the smaller front tire will rotate more and this makes the front tire "work" and wear more so much so that it will equal the wear rate of the rear tires. That should make for constant tire rollout and overdrive. This is just some thought of mine seeing all the other 1/8 th scale cars have smaller front and larger rear tires...
You have to run at least 4mm split at the front, that is too much rubber taken off, tires are expensive!!
Further more you hurt the belts on the front/middle and it will not give you much steering. I though you need more steering on small track?

I would rather go for 23T on the middle, just 2.5mm split on the front. Tried it, but still don't like it, not much steering. 705 is already a well balance car like what Julius Kolff had mention. and i "think" 1:1 car is always the fastest car. Just my 2 cents worth.
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