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Old 04-02-2003, 07:57 AM   #946
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
I was planning on getting a 705, then I heard that they are releasing a 705S or something to this sort to fix some of the problems with the 705. Is this true or a bunch of BS?

Thanks,
.


Crash do not believe on just rumors. Check their site and email Serpent. Or go to their forum. They will answer most of ur questions.

www. MYTSN.com


What else can u possibly want (option parts) in the stock 705, Mugen MTX 3, Kyosho V one rr.

All of these kits are ready to race when u assemble it. U barely need nothing else to be competitve w/ this kits. NO offense Just out of curiosity, what else do u need to satisfy ur skills?
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:01 AM   #947
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Don't need anything else. The rumor came from MYTSN . A friend of mine has the car and has had to due some modifications to keep the rear belt from coming off and heard of a rumor about a steering issue. Before I spend that kind of money on a car I want to be sure that I am not going to have to make modifications to get the car to work is all. No offense taken.

Thanks,
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:44 AM   #948
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My rear belt always looks like it is about to fall off, but it never has in any of the 4 races it's competed. I run the rear ball diff very loose and use 1.5 deg. rear toe and it has all the steering you would ever want!!
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Old 04-02-2003, 03:33 PM   #949
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
Don't need anything else. The rumor came from MYTSN . A friend of mine has the car and has had to due some modifications to keep the rear belt from coming off and heard of a rumor about a steering issue. Before I spend that kind of money on a car I want to be sure that I am not going to have to make modifications to get the car to work is all. No offense taken.

Thanks,
I think the rear belt has a smaller one. I know for a fact it will not fall off.

U can also move the pulley close to the brakes, just make sure not too close. That would decrease the risk of having the belt fall.

Honestly, I have not seen a belt fall of in any belt driven car. I saw some of it brakes because of rocks but never seen it fall.
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Old 04-02-2003, 06:54 PM   #950
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Thanks again guys.
Getting ready to run this Impulse on my test track.
The manual does not mention ride height. It mentions "driving camber"
By adding more or less pre-load is supposed to vary the driving camber. I have been running the adjustment nut on the front & rear shocks up & down, and I don't see any difference in "driving camber" or ride height. Any input?
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:14 PM   #951
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If you arent getting any ride height adjustment from screwing down the collar then you must have the downstop screws set to touch the chassis as a standard setting. Make sure they are not screwed all the way in to start with.
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:21 PM   #952
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modellor
I just checked the down stops, and now I can raise or lower the ride height, thanks. I set the rears as stated by the manual, "with tires on, set the stops so that the rear of the chassis just touches the ground" when you push down firmly
What is the basic starting front & rear height for this chassis?
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:21 PM   #953
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
Thanks again guys.
Getting ready to run this Impulse on my test track.
The manual does not mention ride height. It mentions "driving camber"
By adding more or less pre-load is supposed to vary the driving camber. I have been running the adjustment nut on the front & rear shocks up & down, and I don't see any difference in "driving camber" or ride height. Any input?
Ok, there are two ways... One of them is mentioned in the Streetspec manual which is kind of cumbersome.

The second method is laid out by Michael Salven in an article somewhere...

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=4937&ccid=8

It is basically like this... Set the ride height of the car first and foremost. You can do this by putting a set of tires on the car and measure the ride height. Alternatively a faster and better way is to get the ride height directly from the Hudy camber gauge if you own one. If you take the ride height measurements from the Hudy setup gauges, it is based on as if the car had 66 mm diameter tires. So for example if you want to race with a 62 mm diameter tire and you need an actual ride height of 5mm front and rear on the car, then on the Hudy gauges, you need to measure the ride height there at 7mm i.e. 66-62 = 4 and 4/2 is 2. 5 + 2 = 7mm. You set the ride height of the car by adjustment nut on the shock collar.

A clearer illustration of how to get your ride height on the Hudy gauges is on mytsn by Julius Kolff;

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=7107

Ok, back on to the main topic. Once you get the ride height correct, you do not need to measure the driving camber. You start to set your toe in / out and camber on your wheels. Once that is done, then you're good to go.
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:28 PM   #954
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
modellor
I just checked the down stops, and now I can raise or lower the ride height, thanks. I set the rears as stated by the manual, "with tires on, set the stops so that the rear of the chassis just touches the ground" when you push down firmly
What is the basic starting front & rear height for this chassis?
Whatever you do, do not use the downstops to set your ride height ! They are for the droop settings...

What is meant by the statement in the manual "with tires on, set the stops so that the rear of the chassis just touches the ground" is instructions on how to set your upstop screws. Many do not use them but so do. Upstop screws prevent the car / chassis from going down and bottomming... Downstop screws prevent the car from lifting upwards...

A good starting ride height is about 5 to 6 mm measured with the tires you race on. Some go to 4 mm but that all depends if your track is smooth or bumpy. The ride height also dictates how the car steers... Lower front and heigher rear gives more steering etc.
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:32 PM   #955
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
I can foresee a Serpent 1-2 finish in both our local club championship and the Irish National Championship . Third will probably go to the NTC3 full sponsor driver.
Woow that's cool Should I congratulate you already? Well, anything can happen in a race. Good luck and enjoy the race
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:40 PM   #956
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Quote:
Originally posted by it
I did not change my side pulley I left as it is.
Ummm, I assume you use the same front and rear tire diameter?

If you stick with the same side pulley (18T) with the 22T brake pulley and 47T diff pulley, you'll get a permanent front overdrive (1.068) i.e. front tires cover a larger tire rollout than the rear making the front side of the car pull the rear.

To make the car have an overdrive of 1:1 again, you need to run a 4 mm split i.e. rear tires bigger than front tires by 4 mm. A 17T side pulley solves the overdrive issue when using same diameter front and rear tires.

It may be the reason why you are able to drive the car with a rear solid axle and still be able to control the rear of the car off the corners...
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:42 PM   #957
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
Don't need anything else. The rumor came from MYTSN . A friend of mine has the car and has had to due some modifications to keep the rear belt from coming off and heard of a rumor about a steering issue. Before I spend that kind of money on a car I want to be sure that I am not going to have to make modifications to get the car to work is all. No offense taken.

Thanks,
Ahh, where in mytsn is this? And what issues with the steering?

As far as I know, I don't think there's any issues...
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:45 PM   #958
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ID, thanks
I have the blue Integy set, and I'm assuming it is the same, but aluminum.
I don't have a truer, but I might be able to use one on Sunday. I just put a new set of tires (foam) on and do my qualifiers then finish the day off and give them to someone who can use them for practice. Is a truer a tool that I can get and use to have my car more predictable? Running a new set of tires for two or three qualifiers is a strange feeling. I race a Schumacher Mission carbon also on Sundays. It is a strange feeling going from a "Pro Stock" electric class, with a dialed in Mission, and then run a 5 minute race with a gas car with new foam tires. I stopped running my NTC3s because when I add in a "shaft driven"
gas car to this scenario, it really is difficult.
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:46 PM   #959
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Quote:
Originally posted by ronin8451
My rear belt always looks like it is about to fall off, but it never has in any of the 4 races it's competed. I run the rear ball diff very loose and use 1.5 deg. rear toe and it has all the steering you would ever want!!
Yup, it will not fall off... But for those inclined to change to a wider rear belt, you can use the 6361 belt meant for the front belt of the Vector / Veteq / 950.

Or if you want to source it out andf get it yourself from other belting shops, you can ask for a 67 toothed timing belt (total lenght is 67 x 3 = 201 mm). You can specify any width in this case
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:00 PM   #960
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Quote:
Originally posted by coastaltony
ID, thanks
I have the blue Integy set, and I'm assuming it is the same, but aluminum.
I don't have a truer, but I might be able to use one on Sunday. I just put a new set of tires (foam) on and do my qualifiers then finish the day off and give them to someone who can use them for practice. Is a truer a tool that I can get and use to have my car more predictable? Running a new set of tires for two or three qualifiers is a strange feeling. I race a Schumacher Mission carbon also on Sundays. It is a strange feeling going from a "Pro Stock" electric class, with a dialed in Mission, and then run a 5 minute race with a gas car with new foam tires. I stopped running my NTC3s because when I add in a "shaft driven"
gas car to this scenario, it really is difficult.
coastaltony, I am not familiar with the Integy set but you can use calipers and measure from the center point of the gauge where the nut fits to the bottom flat surface... You can then do the math accordingly.

Like what Andrew has mentioned previously, a tire truer isn't necessary but necessary if you're competing in the competitive level like in the national's A main or something like that...

What you could do is do some tire management... Run the new set of tires till they wear out to a certain required diameter and keep them for real competition Out of the box, foams are like 65 to 66 mm in diameter. Ideally, you will want to run them at like 60 to 62 mm.

It is also important that you set your ride height then according to your tire diameter. If you had previously ran a used set of tires (say 60 mm) and already set a ride height of 5 mm, you'lll end up with a ride height of 8 mm (5 + 6/2) when you use a brand new set of tires (66 mm) Therefore, you need to re-set your ride height accordingly and maybe lower it back to 5 mm. When you do this, you also need to check your camber and toe in / out of the wheels again

That probably explains why the car always acts weird on a new set of foams...
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