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Old 03-18-2003, 10:45 AM   #751
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Hi nizee,

I'll have a look at the tweak station you mentioned

Michael Salven has already refused to be my personal trainer He said there was no hope for me
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Old 03-18-2003, 10:50 AM   #752
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there has to be end play in the centax.... you must not have any, you may have too large of a shim behind the flywheel. try removing that first, then remove all shims on the front.. when assembled you should be able to freely move the clutch bell in and out.. just a bit but you should be able to do that.... my guess is you can not do that right now.. other possibility.. make sure your bearing are seating in the clutch bell, i have had a clutch bell with a goober from manufacturing that would not allow the bearing in all the way.. extremely rare but possible.. my guess is the shims though....
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Old 03-18-2003, 10:51 AM   #753
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
Pit, I was runnin 40's all the way around.
I noticed they were dished wheels. What brand were they? I didn't get a chance to meet you, maybe next time.
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Old 03-18-2003, 10:56 AM   #754
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Anyone know the part number for the serpent cleaning gum - might aswell get that, too
1690.
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Old 03-18-2003, 10:59 AM   #755
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Default got it....

It appears that the problem is either:

1) I am using an OS TR, and the SG crankshaft may be slightly short

2) (as you mentioned) the flywheel nut may not be tight enough, so the flywheel is not far enough onto the collet.

Either way, the thrust bearing carrier is not contacting the crank shaft. The internals of the clutch are getting squished, and are binding.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:02 AM   #756
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Default Re: markp27 and IntialD

Quote:
Originally posted by chachi
Thanks for your detailed responses. I appreciate it.

I tried going through all the steps again, and same problem. The clutch bell spins freely, but as tighten down the drive shaft screw/bolt, the clutch bell is unable to spin freely. If I do not tighten down the drive shaft bolt all the way, it feels like it should. I tried different amounts of shims, and it made no difference. Any insight?
As Andrew mentioned, you may have more shims than you require at the back of your flywheel behind the collet. Just curious but what engine are you running? I believe in the 950 forum at mytsn, certain people had problems aligning their clutchbell with the spurs and they attributed it to the Sirio engine they were suing. Well, in this case, it could be the SG shaft of your engine is slightly different which causes this spacing anomaly you're having.
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:02 AM   #757
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did you pit the thrust bearing together the right way? Somehow this definately has to do with how the clutch is put together, and the amount of shims involved. You should ba ablt to tighten the screw Ok an still ahv the bell spin feeely. I'd suggest take it all apart again, look at the instructions and follow them 110%
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:14 AM   #758
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
I noticed they were dished wheels. What brand were they? I didn't get a chance to meet you, maybe next time.
They are Ellegis. I can get you the part number if you want. I would have to get it from my hobby shop that I ordered them from.
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:34 AM   #759
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On the subject of wheels and tyres:

I'm not too keen on the yellow of the serpent wheels, I'd prefer some black ones, as it'd go better with the yellow body shell I've got.

What wheels would you recommend. As I'm a rookie at this, which size should I get?

Also the same question regarding tyres - I really need to get some spares, so some recommendations for foam tyres/sizes would be really great.

Best regards, Mark.
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:40 AM   #760
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Default Sirio

InitialD,

Are you saying that the Sirio 12's won't fit the 705? I hope this is not the case because that is the engine I just bought.

Has anyone seen the Sirio 12 on the 705?
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:48 AM   #761
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markp27, unfortunately the choice of wheels is somewhat limited for the Ellegi foams. I have used both the yellow 5-spoke and the white dish rim and I prefer the white dish over the yellow 5 spoke simply because it is a stronger design. On the 5-spokes, you would quite often develop some wobble in the front after some light touches with the walls, the dish remains perfectly straight even after impacts that would have torn the 5 spoke rim off the driveshaft. I guess you could always paint them... Some people argue that it is better with a light rim since it gives you a more visual reference where the front wheels are pointed through the turns. Personally I would like to see like a light gray rim, I think that would look better.

DSR: I have seen a couple of impulses with sirios in them, so I know it will fit, maybe you just need to figure out the shimming that will most likely be different than with a Novamega.
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Old 03-18-2003, 11:50 AM   #762
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Quote:
Has anyone seen the Sirio 12 on the 705?

It should fit......the only thing that might be a problem is the carb hitting the tank or C.F. top deck.
I have one waiting to go in my 705 but need a con rod for it!!
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Old 03-18-2003, 12:16 PM   #763
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Default ROAR legal

Another question:

Is the Novarossi .12 RS-12 S5 ROAR legal?

As far as I can tell, ROAR allows up to 4 ports including the exhaust. Does this mean that it is illegal?
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Old 03-18-2003, 12:19 PM   #764
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Yepp, it is not allowed in Roar racing. Sorry....
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Old 03-18-2003, 12:20 PM   #765
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
They are Ellegis. I can get you the part number if you want. I would have to get it from my hobby shop that I ordered them from.
Yes ,it would be appreciated.
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