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Old 03-16-2003, 07:31 PM   #721
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Quote:
Originally posted by DSR
Mark,

I use the Serpent cleaning gum. It cleans up oil as well. It works great. Couldn't imagine cleaning the car without it.
DSR, how long can the cleaning gum last or how many times can you use it?

How do you use it? By taking a small piece of it and rub on the dirty parts?

What happens to the dirt that gets stuck on the gum?
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Old 03-16-2003, 07:42 PM   #722
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
the winfg is a huge factor.. i use shoe goo under the screwss..
As for the wing, some loctite is good. I use M4 type screws and use a wheel nut (yes) to lock the wing down to the body shell. The wheel nut goes to the top of the wing and the M4 screws goes from the bottom of the bodyshell. I especially like Serpent type wheel nuts because it's like a washer nut with wide flanges that provide bigger area for the nut to put a force down to the wing on the body.
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Old 03-16-2003, 08:01 PM   #723
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do not use a switch and you should get around a hour and a half
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Old 03-16-2003, 08:12 PM   #724
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks for the reply.

Is it ok to keep dismantling the car in this way? I mean: each time I run, that I have to take off the radio plate and/or other parts.

I'm just a little concerned about the wear the plastic parts may face, as I'll be regularly loosening and tightening screws in these parts.

Do you use any fluids on the car to remove the sticky oil coating, which builds up during the runs?

Cheers, Mark.
As for me, very seldom do I take the radio plate out to clean the car. I only do that when it's extremely dirty. I believe when you get better on the track, your car gets cleaner. You'll tend to visit the grass and the weeds much less Anyway, I use a spray type cleaner to blast out all the grime and dirt and blow the dirt off with a hand pump cleaner. This way, you can access most (not all) parts that you would only have access if you take the radio plate off.

As for fluids, there are many in the market. Use the one meant for RC because they are water free and do not affect your electronics if these cleaning fluid get on it. Buggy Blast by Trinity is a famous one.
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Old 03-16-2003, 09:02 PM   #725
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Default Re: Been to the track!

Mark, it does seem that now you have cleared all your installation issues, you now have setup problems. It would be helpful if you could post your setup here and have us look at it.

Yes, what Andrew mentioned is correct. Most of the time, tweak is the culprit. The tweakstation is a very useful tool to check the balance of the shocks and of the car. It is especially useful when you use a front one way diff as you rely heavily on the rear wheels to provide you with the braking. But before you do that, I assume you have the left and right shocks in equal length. Also make sure that when your shocks are not connected, the arms can move freely. Also, check if your droop settings (left and right) are equal especially the rear droop. Also, make sure that the left and right track width are equal in length.

Some of the time, the tweak can be caused by the sway bars installed incorrectly.

This is what I usually do with the car on the tweakstation;

1. Firstly, after setting your ride height and your droop and camber settings, put the car equally in the centre on the tweakstation with all four shocks and firstly WITHOUT the sway bars connected.

2. When checking the rear end, press the chassis in the middle so that your rear shocks can compress and settle. Check the water bubble.

3. If water bubble not in the centre say it is to the left side, the right side of the rear wheel is heavier. Screw in (tighten) the FRONT right shock and screw out (loosen) the FRONT left shock in EQUAL amounts of turns till you get the rear wheels balanced from left to right.

4. After this is done, connect the rear sway bars and check for balance. If not balanced, your sway bar is not correctly installed or your sway bar linkages are not set to equal lengths.

5. After this, press the FRONT side of the car so that the rear wheels will tend to lift up. This action simulates what happens during braking action of the car. Check the rear side if the wheels are also balanced. If not, then it's a high posibility that your rear droop settings are not set equally left and right.

6. Repeat the same steps to check the tweak on the front side of the car.

When checking tweak on the car, it is an assumption that the car chassis is flat and it is not bent anywhere.
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Old 03-16-2003, 09:06 PM   #726
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Default Re: Rear anti-roll bar set adjustable

Quote:
Originally posted by DSR
Does anyone know the exact parts & numbers needed to make the adjustable Rear anti-roll bar set work with the 705?

Also, when tightening the rear diff. halves together, how tight do you tighten? The book says to tighten really tight, but when I do this, the diff. seems to tight. Any explanation to this would be very helpful.
I believe when the manual says tighten really tight, they refer to the grub screw in step 3.5.

To get the required diff setting, you first need to tighten the two diff halfs as described in step 3.3. Once you found the minimum tightness that the diff pulley will not slip when you attempt to turn it while holding both diff halfs, then you've found the looses setting. You can tighten the 2 half diffs to your setup liking with the steel shaft and a scewdriver in the opposite drive slot.

Now, after any setting is achieved, you must lock the grub screw tightly with the steel shaft still in place in the hole so that your diff settings do not run away.
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Old 03-17-2003, 12:43 AM   #727
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
DSR, how long can the cleaning gum last or how many times can you use it?

How do you use it? By taking a small piece of it and rub on the dirty parts?

What happens to the dirt that gets stuck on the gum?
Well, I just bought mine. Used it a few times. You just press it into any area of the car and it picks up all dirt and oil.

Robert, at Ashford Hobbies, says he has used the same pack of the cleaning gum for the past 3 years. He says he uses it after each race.

The stuff is great. It fits into any crevis.
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Old 03-17-2003, 01:25 AM   #728
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
you're welcome pit racer,,

I never trued out my tires, i should try that some day, but i don't have any clue how to start, so why don't you guys talk to me more about this topic, i apreciate it!!
There are many reasons why smaller tires are better. Firstly, you avoid chunking by going with smaller tires. Secondly, your car accelerates better going with smaller tires.
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Old 03-17-2003, 01:27 AM   #729
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Quote:
Originally posted by DSR
Well, I just bought mine. Used it a few times. You just press it into any area of the car and it picks up all dirt and oil.

Robert, at Ashford Hobbies, says he has used the same pack of the cleaning gum for the past 3 years. He says he uses it after each race.

The stuff is great. It fits into any crevis.
3 years on the same pack?? Woow this stuff must be good then. Can't imagine how much of dirt accumulates in the gum after 3 years of racing...

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:31 AM   #730
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Do you use a drill attachment to gut out the front windscreen. How many holes do you reckon I should cut into the rear windscreen?

Ta, Mark.
Here's a pic of my body after cut-outs....
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:39 AM   #731
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Default Re: Rear anti-roll bar set adjustable

Quote:
Originally posted by DSR
Does anyone know the exact parts & numbers needed to make the adjustable Rear anti-roll bar set work with the 705?

Also, when tightening the rear diff. halves together, how tight do you tighten? The book says to tighten really tight, but when I do this, the diff. seems to tight. Any explanation to this would be very helpful.
The part#'s for the rear adj. sway is 909335 for rear assem. ; 909336 for conical ; and part# 909216 for male ends which are softer than the rear male arms the kit comes with.

Also for rear diff assem. like kit says but put some grease on the balls for a smoother affect.
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Old 03-17-2003, 02:43 PM   #732
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
There are many reasons why smaller tires are better. Firstly, you avoid chunking by going with smaller tires. Secondly, your car accelerates better going with smaller tires.
Thanks Initial D,

well then I'll start with 62mm in the 4 tires, but what about giving camber in the tire truer to the tire, this will help me too? I'm jus courius, my friend get a new Hudy #102002 truer, so I need to now if this feature will help me too!!

thanks in advance

OOhhhh BTW,, that's real nice paint Job Pit Racer!!

ciao!!
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Old 03-17-2003, 03:25 PM   #733
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Anyone on here except for Pit-Racer breaking Shock Rods (shaft)!?!?!?



And Yes, very nice body!!!

Last edited by PUNISHER; 03-17-2003 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 03-17-2003, 04:40 PM   #734
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I have broken two, one rear and one front. One was at the Austin Race and the other was this past weekend.

Also, this is a question for Punisher and Pit-racer. What engines are you running?
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Old 03-17-2003, 06:19 PM   #735
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Quote:
Originally posted by JJ187RC
I have broken two, one rear and one front. One was at the Austin Race and the other was this past weekend.

Also, this is a question for Punisher and Pit-racer. What engines are you running?
Break mine one on the front last weekend. Isn't that part suppose to be harden part?

Regarding Punisher and Pit engine, i can't recall what their 3-port Engine are, but i do know they been Mod by the same "engineer" that do their "proven mod clutch".

Helleva mod, but still meet ROAR minimum spec.
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