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Old 03-12-2003, 08:45 AM   #676
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So Jaco foam will rub the front carriers?
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Old 03-12-2003, 08:48 AM   #677
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ducati998
So Jaco foam will rub the front carriers?
Yes, if you don't put a spacer in between them.
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Old 03-12-2003, 08:51 AM   #678
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
Yes, thats the reason why i add washer to get the correct offset without rubbing on the hub carriers. You have a great idea of making your own spacer. Maybe i should do that tonight. Thanks.
Maybe we could offer a service selling them at 75c per thousand.
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Old 03-12-2003, 09:14 AM   #679
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Maybe we could offer a service selling them at 75c per thousand.
Hey that is really not a bad Idea!!! If we got the time.
And name the spacer "modellor & nizee" spacer.
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Old 03-12-2003, 10:35 AM   #680
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The reason for the spacer is under hard cornering or a slight hit the wheel tends to bend and hits the ballend on the steering arm....otherwise the wheel fits with no problem.We put a spacer to play it safe.

The clutch modification done on our cars are a proven method here.On the comment made earlier that it's all wrong info.....this hobby is all made of inprovements and idea's and what's right for others doesn't mean it right for all.We are happy with our mods.I will not posts info without proving the methods first.And the method was made by the F-man and seasoned racer and engineer and friend of team drivers. So Happy Racing!
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Old 03-12-2003, 10:32 PM   #681
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If possible can someone please post pictures of what the spacers look like? Thanx to the all of you for the help!
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Old 03-12-2003, 10:40 PM   #682
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ducati it is just some type of washer you put on before mounting
the wheels so it will off set out more. I use hpi spacers since
it is the same shape as the wheel mounts and should not
be affected under side load.
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Old 03-12-2003, 10:58 PM   #683
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Is it just some regular circle washer? Also won't that make the wheel stick out, maybe not alot? Also would anyone know if TRc foam tire would rub on the 705? Thanx
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Old 03-12-2003, 10:58 PM   #684
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ducati998
If possible can someone please post pictures of what the spacers look like? Thanx to the all of you for the help!
For my case now, i'm using about 1mm washer as a spacer. Some people made hex spacer. See attachment picture. Hope that make better understanding.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg spacer.jpg (114.7 KB, 82 views)
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Old 03-12-2003, 11:02 PM   #685
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
For my case now, i'm using about 1mm washer as a spacer. Some people made hex spacer. See attachment picture. Hope that make better understanding.
Wow! That help, thanx all alot! Any more picture would be appercaited from anyoneelse. Thanx!
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Old 03-13-2003, 05:10 AM   #686
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Default Another rookie-clutch-engagement question

Hi Guys,

I'm still a little concerned about the amount of throttle I have to apply to make the car start to move. As I haven't had a nitro car before, I would be grateful for some advice.

Should the clutch engage at low engine revs or only once the revs are up quite a bit?

I had expected, that I would be able to give a little bit of gas and the car would start to roll, but I have to get to the point where the engine is really coming on-song (sounds great, but not sure if the revs are too high), before it starts to engage the clutch, i.e. I can see the car is starting to want to move forward.
But as I'm only just getting onto my third tank of the run-in cycle, I'm concerned that the revs are getting too high - difficult to judge how much throttle that is, but I'd guess at 25%

I've reducded the tension on the spring so that the measurement see in step 8.3 is about 8.7mm.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 03-13-2003, 06:51 AM   #687
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i have never measuered the spring ht, it is a feel thing, too high engagement too low... not sure it is worth the energy of measuring.... it would very much be like measuring your suspension spring length for setup, instead of a ride ht tool, and a tweak board......
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Old 03-13-2003, 10:04 AM   #688
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markp27. I think your spring tension is a bit on the high side. as ammdrew points out, it is a "feel" thing to get the clutch adjusted properly. It is also dependent on track conditions. low traction: you will want earlier engagment in order not to spin tires: high traction: a higher rpm engagment will make the car feel snappier when accelerating. However, I think by the way you describe your problem, that you should lower the spring tension. the clutch should engage at (rough estimate) 10% above idle for general settings. If you need to open up the throttle 25% to get the car rolling, that is too high.

Good luck
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Old 03-13-2003, 11:17 AM   #689
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I did try reducing the tension of the spring, but it seemed not to improve the situation enough. I got to the point where I couldn't start the engine, as the flywheel would turn without turning the engine!

Hmm something seems wrong here. Now I've an additional problem - the engine is siezed at the top position. It's happened before, where I had to turn the flywheel by hand until I freed up the piston, but this time it is really stuck hard. I've even taken the engine out and tried to turn the flywheel, but it ain't budging :-((( Back to my dealer again....I've been trying for the last three weeks just to get the car moving. Last week one of the motors in the starter box burn't out and now this week the engine siezes :-(((

Is there a procedure that should be followed, once I've stopped the engine? i.e. should I move the piston immediately away from the top position to ensure this doesn't happen?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 03-13-2003, 11:46 AM   #690
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What engine do you have? If I had to guess, I would say that you run an MS novamega, they are known to be tight when cold and new, in fact, that is a good thing.

Try slowly turning your flywheel backwards with a plier until the piston looses up and drops down to bottom dead center. Loosen up your glowplug a bit (just like maybe 1/2 a turn) in ordert to lower the compression. Now, with the piston at BDC, press down on your starterbox until the starter wheel starts spinning, but do not allow it to come into contact with the flyweheel until it has reached max rpm. Now, press the car doen onto the starterwheel. This should really allow the starter to crank that engine over. Normally, once you have your engine broken in completely, the issue with cold start and piston being tight goes away. Be aware though that this may take as much as a full gallon of fuel. Once engine runs, remember to tighten the glowplug back up.
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