R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-09-2003, 08:51 AM   #586
Tech Fanatic
 
RClover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 869
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JUN
I really doubt they have a new car coming out,i think they have more then enough on there plates with the latest batch of cars.Then again this is serpent we are talking about and they told the guys at rc car action about the 950 before the veteq owners so i wouldn't put it past them,but it just doesn't make logical sense.But then again(you can finish of the line)................ I hope you like the many contradictions.
let's be a little logical...put it this way, hmm....i reckon that Serpent will definitely be releasing a new 1/10th tourer to replace the 705...why? b'cos this is just a matter of time as the 705 wont be there forever...somehow when the new design/ project on the new 1/10th tourer is completed, Serpent would release it.
This is quite simple actually, all products must go through their life cycle...starting from the stage of...birth..growth...mature....
saturation....Now that the impulse (the actual product) had gone passed its mature stage and heading towards the saturation stage...in order to keep the product going, Serpent put in some goodies for it to stay competitive at the mature stage and hope to see some growth (of course). Having unable to really breakthrough the stiff competition...Serpent did a little improvement on their car and give a new name where a 705 is born. This is exactly like any other big car manufacturers where a new car be released every 3-4 years.
So, my point is...there is no end for this new car coming out to the market as long as the company is there and open their doors to do business....
Stay happy with what you have now and enjoy this hobby...if you have the extra $$$, what the heck....get whatever new kits that is coming out to the market...
RClover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:52 AM   #587
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default

Or you can buy Gate belts (which most RC manufactureres use anyway) and get the belts in different sizes to run a combination for better selection to suit different tracks.
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 09:52 AM   #588
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TEXAS. USA
Posts: 1,219
Trader Rating: 2 (75%+)
Lightbulb SERPENT HATERS

Quote:
let's be a little logical...put it this way, hmm....i reckon that Serpent will definitely be releasing a new 1/10th tourer to replace the 705...why? b'cos this is just a matter of time as the 705 wont be there forever...somehow when the new design/ project on the new 1/10th tourer is completed, Serpent would release it.
DUDE!
You must be the smartest person on this board!!

Quote:
This is quite simple actually, all products must go through their life cycle...starting from the stage of...birth..growth...mature....
Sounds like you have some kind of growing up issues there buddy.



Quote:
Now that the impulse (the actual product) had gone passed its mature stage and heading towards the saturation stage...in order to keep the product going, Serpent put in some goodies for it to stay competitive at the mature stage and hope to see some growth (of course). Having unable to really breakthrough the stiff competition...Serpent did a little improvement on their car and give a new name where a 705 is born. This is exactly like any other big car manufacturers where a new car be released every 3-4 years.
Serpent has more World titles then any other manufacturers of this Hobby. The touring class is the biggest and most competitive class in the hobby right now!! That why they put the 705 out in the market! Sure, all manufacturers come out with new cars 2-4 years to stay ahead of the game!!

Quote:
Stay happy with what you have now and enjoy this hobby...if you have the extra $$$, what the heck....get whatever new kits that is coming out to the market...
Sounds like your not happy with the kit you have
now!

Now move along TROLL!!!


PUNISHER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 01:10 PM   #589
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default Ventilation holes in body work.

Hi Guys,

Could someone give me some tips as to what as should do regarding ventilation and access holes in the car's bodywork?

I wish to remain conformant to the EFRA regulations, so I'm interested to know if it you guys remove both front side windows; placing of the hole in the front windscreen; removal of rear windscreen?

If anyone could direct me to some pictures of a body with the appropriate holes, that'd be great.

Many thanks, Mark.
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 02:49 PM   #590
Tech Regular
 
rpoage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ct Penn. USA
Posts: 278
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

These are the IFMAR 200mm rules which are almost a mirror of the 235 body rules.

1.13 The body must be made from a flexible material and be painted properly. All windows must remain clear and not be painted over or be semi-transparent.

1.14 Bodies are not to be cut above the lower bumper line at the front or the back or above the bottom line of the doors. Details of all front and rear lights, grills, air intakes and windows must be clearly contrasted from the surrounding paintwork.

1.15 Only the following AIR HOLES and sizes are permitted in the bodyshells:

One (1) cooling hole may be cut in the front windscreen only (not intruding on either the roof or bonnet) with a maximum dimension in any direction of 60.00mm.
15.00mm maximum diameter hole in the roof for glow plug access.
Both front side windows and the rear window can be removed for ventilation, except for the side rear windows, which must remain intact.

Re-fuelling hole maximum 50.00mm diameter.
Small holes can be made for the exhaust pipe, transponder and radio antenna.

No other holes are permitted.

1.16 Roll-bars (roll-over bars) must be kept under the body.

1.17 No parts of the car, except the muffler outlet may protrude outside of the bodyshell when viewed from above.

1.18 Under body/chassis aerodynamic aids of any nature are not allowed.

Hope that helps.
rpoage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 03:09 PM   #591
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Thanks rpoage,

Indeed the rules do seem very similar, except the max hole size is 50mm for the front windscreen and I think the access hold for the refulling hole is only 30mm - is this really a useful size? I'm not sure I could open the spring-loaded cap and stick in the fuel nozzel at the same time?

My main interest is the positioning of the holes and if they are really beneficial, or even detremental to the cars overall aerodynamic behaviour.

I don't want to start cutting holes into my bodywork only to find out that the hole provides nothing useful, or worse even, messes up the aerodynamics of the car.

I noticed from pictures of Ralph B Jr's car, that he cuts two largish holes in the rear window, but can't tell if he removes both front side windows.
He also seems to have a large hole central (in a frontal position) in the car's roof - I don't think I can do this under the EFRA regulations.

It would certainly be very interesting to hear what effect such holes have on the aerodynamics (i.e. from the guys' here experience).

Expanding a little on this point: do the aerodynamics, i.e. rear wing, really have a big effect on the car's downforce/handling?

Best regards, Mark.
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 04:18 PM   #592
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default

Hey Mark,

Unfortunately, cutting any hole in the body effects the aerodynamics greatly. But it is a trade off to having a better performing engine.

I have found that cutting the 50mm hole just to the right of center of the engine to be best (slightly closer to the center of the window) as it allows both cooling to the engine and a larger hole for refuelling.

As for the rear window. Get as much of it out as possible as it lets the warm air escape a lot quicker and less air catches in the rear of the shell then forcing the rear end up of the ground.

Now, the side windows are the important ones. Ideally, you want to remove both front side windows completely but this really weakens the integrity of the shell and at high speed the body tends to buckle causing the front nose to lift and the rear wing to increase in angle of attack. The result being a car with serious drag problems.

You have two choices here for optimum use. Either, drill lots of 5mm - 10mm holes in the windows to allow air in which causes serious vortices by the time the airflow gets to the rear of the car or drill a hole in the center of the radio plate just in front of the steering servo and add a 5th body post to support the bonnet of the shell (I prefer this as it seriously improves the downforce and cooling of the engine).

I hope this helps.

As for hole dimensions, we are restricted to 50mm in the front window, a 10mm hole for the glowstarter on the roof, a 10mm hole for the aerial, a hole big enough to allow the transponder to mount and a unlimited hole size for the stinger to come through within reason (I use 15mm for personal preference)
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 04:20 PM   #593
Company Representative
 
ammdrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,594
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

the higher the hole is in the windshiled the more air you get the less windshield pressure you get the roof/windshield is a very big part of pushing the car down, i would mostly say that most do not see any diff in performance from a windshild hole position, they just feel better about it some times, on the rear, two 50mm holes seem to be more than enough and cut the whole sides out..... the wing is huge, make as big as you can get away with.....legal that is
ammdrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 06:20 PM   #594
Tech Fanatic
 
RClover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 869
Default Re: SERPENT HATERS

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
DUDE!
You must be the smartest person on this board!!

Sounds like you have some kind of growing up issues there buddy.


Serpent has more World titles then any other manufacturers of this Hobby. The touring class is the biggest and most competitive class in the hobby right now!! That why they put the 705 out in the market! Sure, all manufacturers come out with new cars 2-4 years to stay ahead of the game!!

Sounds like your not happy with the kit you have
now!

Now move along TROLL!!!


no...i am very happy with serpent cars.... and have i said anything bad...No...!
as u've said, new cars should come out within 2-4 years rightfully and that's what i would expect serpent to do before they even release the 705... but i pretty disappointed with serpent that they had only done some minor modifications to the Impulse/Pro.
What i want to see is a whole new car for 1/10 from serpent....
this is the 5th year for the Impulse...buddy....kind'a amazing right ? i have not seen a car kit lasted for more than 3 years....why? b'cos their R&D dept is not sleeping.....
RClover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 07:05 PM   #595
JUN
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 108
Default

Serpent no doubt would be working on a new car all the time that's why the engineers like salven are paid the big bucks so they can keep improving and designing.Even if they had a car that was almost finished,in my opinion it wouldn't make sense to put it out now,too many 705 owners would be pissed something severe and it's not logical.
JUN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:12 PM   #596
Tech Adept
 
apmk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 127
Unhappy Need help!

Hello Pros out there! Please help me.

I'm running Impulse and realised that the inner rim of front left wheel is rubbing on the steering block.

I've tried placing a 1mm washer between the wheel & the hex wheelnut but it dosen't seem to work.

Need your advise.
apmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:19 PM   #597
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,

I'm not quite sure what step 8.7 in the assembly manual is relating to here:

Step 8.7 A)Place small shims to remove all but a small amount of end play

Does this mean, that there should be no play on the bell-housing?

My 705 isn't moving at the moment, seems the clutch doesn't engage for some reason. I've followed the instructions in the manual to the letter, and also took Modellors's suggestion about reducing the spring tension (and thus the measurement seen in step 8.3 to 8.8mm). But my car won't move :-((

Now I'm suspicious about this step 8.7 A, as it is the only thing which I've not really understood in the whole Centax build.

Desperate to get to the track tomorrow or else it'll be another week before I can try it out
Mark, I gather that you're still running your engine rich. It may be that the clutch is not engaging because of this.

Then again, there should be slight end play in the clutchbell as the manual mentioned. But then I would think that if you had followed the manual carefuly, the end play of the clutchbell wouldn't be so big that it completely disallows clutch engagement. I know because if I didn't use any shim, there is only slight end play which is not too big but it still allows clutch engagement.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:20 PM   #598
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: SERPENT HATERS

Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
no...i am very happy with serpent cars.... and have i said anything bad...No...!
as u've said, new cars should come out within 2-4 years rightfully and that's what i would expect serpent to do before they even release the 705... but i pretty disappointed with serpent that they had only done some minor modifications to the Impulse/Pro.
What i want to see is a whole new car for 1/10 from serpent....
this is the 5th year for the Impulse...buddy....kind'a amazing right ? i have not seen a car kit lasted for more than 3 years....why? b'cos their R&D dept is not sleeping.....
Are you driving Serpent cars? If you did, you would know how it performs.

And being an owner, how would you like it that the company comes out with a new car all the time and makes your current car obselete?

Put the question the other way around, it's simply amazing that a product can still last after all this and still remain competitive after small changes to it.

Instead of questioning the product, I think we should appreciate the design has lasted this long.

You would also notice that there is hardly any 3rd party after market parts for the Serpent (unlike some other manufacturer), except maybe for GPM which I don't have high opinions anyway. What does that tell you?

The small changes to the Impulse in the form of the 705 may be small but they keep the car up to the same level of competitiveness with the rest. Shouldn't this be towards our (end-user and consumers) benefit instead? Small changes to the existing design while still making it competitive with the current new cars which has been totally re-designed? Doesn't mean that the basic design of the car is 5 years old and that it has to be scrapped... I think we should be happy that most of our existing parts still work and fit in the new car.

Serpent did it once with the Veteq and have learned a valuable lesson from it. I think a company of that size should be able to learn from it and if not, they should not be given to exist in the first place

Serpent could have made small upgrades to the Veteq (which they did) and be done with it. They knew that even with those upgrades, the car still did not perform to the level they wanted it to be. So the whole basic design needed to be scrapped and the 950 was born. They could have done the same with the Impulse but the problem was that the car still worked after it has gone through many small changes

Hope this would also put to rest the rumour about the new Serpent car.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:38 PM   #599
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: pulleys

Quote:
Originally posted by bt
does anyone know if you can change the front 16 tooth pulley to change drive ratios ,if so what are the optoins.
Once you change the pulleys, you need to change and use different belts with different number of teeths as what modellor mentioned.

Like what Robert mentioned, you are limited to the front side, rear side, brake and rear diff pulleys to change the drive ratio.

If you're interested to explore other possibilities to change to a lower drive ratio on the 705 / Impulse, you could use a 50T ball diff pulley (909376 for the ball diff and 909377 for the FPS) from the 1/8 scale Serpent. Use the 22T brake pulley (909242). I believe you need to use 70 teeth (210 mm) rear belt instead of the 67 teeth (201 mm). modellor or somebody, correct me if I'm wrong).

To make the front drive ratio about equal, change the 18T side pulley to the same 16T pulley used for the front (808225). The side pulley adapter should fit the 16T pulley correctly. I think you need to use a 118 teeth (354 mm) side belt instead of a 120 teeth (360 mm) side belt.

This would make the front drive ratio 2.25 and the rear drive ratio about 2.27. It should be about equal.

When using a 15T pinion and a 50T first gear spur, it should make your car final drive ratio for the 1st gear as 7.57. This is about the same 1st gear final drive ratio when using the 13T/16T old Centax clutchbell and 50T 1st gear spur (7.69) with the stock internal drive ratio of 2.

I have not tried the above yet. No promises or guarantees if it works. Hope that helps
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2003, 08:42 PM   #600
JUN
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 108
Default


Last edited by JUN; 07-07-2003 at 09:13 PM.
JUN is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 710 Ron C. Nitro On-Road 23347 03-16-2010 02:47 PM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:24 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net