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Old 02-24-2003, 04:04 PM   #421
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Did anyother brand of servos have the same problem as Mark? Like Jr, do anyone have probelm fitting the servo saver?
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Old 02-24-2003, 04:14 PM   #422
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mine are on top
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Old 02-24-2003, 07:46 PM   #423
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Any suggestions from any Futaba servo users would be most welcome.
Mark, the Serpent manual thinks that everybody uses Sanwa / Airtronics servo If you use those servos, then you will not have any problems mouting the steering servo. On mytsn, they noted this already. Other servos (Futaba's for sure) might have problems also.

The item which fits onto the servo head is called the servo saver. What you should do is mount them like what your LHS has suggested (opposite of what the manual tells you). There will be some rubbing of the ball cups with the servo saver when you do this. What I did was to dremel a little on the servo saver where the ball joint touches so that there is more clearance between the balljoint and the servo saver.

On the other side of the balljoint which connects to the steering knuckles, mount it from the top or bottom whichever seems to give you better orientation to avoid the front belt.
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Old 02-24-2003, 09:14 PM   #424
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
RCInfinity, it seems that you missed section 2.5 on the downstop screws for the front.

The stock needle setting on the NovaMega are NOT the break in needle settings. Those needle settings are meant that you are able to start the car easily. I believe RB mentions this specifically. Can't remember if NovaMega engine instructions has this part mentioned.

Anyway, just richen BOTH low end and high speed needles by one full turn and you should be OK.
Thanks, I didn't even think about the low end needle (new to nitro). Right now I have the main needle backed out 4 full turns from the stock setting. On my next tank of gas, I'll re-adjust the main needle to only one full turn out from stock setting and the low end needle one full turn out from stock setting.
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Old 02-25-2003, 10:31 AM   #425
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Hi all,

A guy on MYTSN has given me a good and simple solution to my Futaba servo problem.

He suggested simply to grind down the head of the servo a little, so that the servo saver fits correctly.
With this method (instead of the one where one would have to mount the ball joints on the top) the geometry remains as it was intended by Serpent.

Off to get myself a small grinder :-)

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-25-2003, 10:48 AM   #426
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Yokomo GT4 all the way !!!

PAT
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Old 02-25-2003, 06:28 PM   #427
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Tabushi,
Please keep moving through..........
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Old 02-25-2003, 07:17 PM   #428
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Just got back from the 4 aces Track in Vegas, First time out with the 705 worked out pretty well,

The track is host to the annual Speeline race in April and the Ron Paris Memorial race in October.

They have a new drivers stand and it is fantastic.

Their are about 90 persons already entered for the Speedline race with a capacity for 180.

Bring your cars and give it a try !!!!!!!!!!!

I think the link is http://www.4aces.com

Barry Baker, Josh Cyrul, etc.... usually show for the race !!!!
Ralph and the Serpent Team showed up last year for the Ron Paris Memorial race and ended up winning the Sedan Class.

Scott, Az.
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Old 02-25-2003, 10:45 PM   #429
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
With this method (instead of the one where one would have to mount the ball joints on the top) the geometry remains as it was intended by Serpent.
Guys at mytsn can be pretty helpful with ideas...

I do not think it is any different if the ball joints are on top or at the bottom so long as they function in parallel to the steering blocks and also most importantly do not rub against the front belt. That is the reason why I mentioned later that the other end of the ball joint should be mounted (top or bottom whichever way it needs to be) to the steering block so that you get a parallel geometry in the steering linkages.
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Old 02-26-2003, 06:15 AM   #430
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Default Another Q

Hi Guys,

Got my steering rods sorted out by mounting the ball joints on the top of the servo horn - works well, I hope :-)

Now I have another question:

The brake rod: I've mounted it as detailed in step 9.3, but am concered that at the servo end, it is only fastened by the screw-on cap!

Looking at step 9.3 and only observing the rod for the rear break, the item detailed as (2). The longer plastic part which fastens onto the servo horn moves freely along the rod without any restraint. The diameter of the whole is greater than that of the cap end, meaning it simply slides onto the rod, whereas the cap must be screwed on.

Have I got something wrong here? I can see that once the servo turns, all that will happen is that the part attched to the servo horn will slide along the rod.

Confused :-( Mark.
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Old 02-26-2003, 10:03 AM   #431
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I have seen some 705 serpent spinning on the track here,seem to be more speed responsive and take corner better than Pro version. And guess wat! Sold out like hot cake...currently 15 buyer in Q. But that not 's not more surprise than MTX3!!! Completely out of stock here!!! 80 % of all RC player wanted this car in this area. MTX3 wit spur 16/12 kick ass! Lots of used pro on sale,10% want to get 705 but 90% want MTX3....FYI i am in Q for MTX3!!!! Heeeee
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Old 02-26-2003, 10:17 AM   #432
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Here in the states, the selection of cars is more diverse. West coast seems to favor the AE car and the Mugen. Some Serpents, and Trinity's, not a whole lot of anything else. Not sure about the East coast.
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Old 02-26-2003, 11:02 AM   #433
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Hi Guys,

Please forget my question above - I see now, that this is how it is supposed to work :-)

Mark.
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Old 02-26-2003, 11:30 AM   #434
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Default Re: Another Q

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,

Got my steering rods sorted out by mounting the ball joints on the top of the servo horn - works well, I hope :-)

Now I have another question:

The brake rod: I've mounted it as detailed in step 9.3, but am concered that at the servo end, it is only fastened by the screw-on cap!

Looking at step 9.3 and only observing the rod for the rear break, the item detailed as (2). The longer plastic part which fastens onto the servo horn moves freely along the rod without any restraint. The diameter of the whole is greater than that of the cap end, meaning it simply slides onto the rod, whereas the cap must be screwed on.

Have I got something wrong here? I can see that once the servo turns, all that will happen is that the part attched to the servo horn will slide along the rod.

Confused :-( Mark.
Mark, I do not understand the problem... Are you asking if the screw-on cap on the brake linake is sufficient to hold the brake settings? The answer is yes. I never had to fiddle or adjust anything with it once set correctly.

When you brake with your Tx, the longer plastic part which fastens onto the servo horn should pull the linkage forward to brake. This longer plastic part which fastens onto the servo horn should be against the fuel tubing which is held firmly by the scew-on cap when you brake.

When you're at full throttle, the longer plastic part which fastens onto the servo horn on the brake linkage should go backwards.

It's very difficult to explain things without showing you physically. I'll try to post some photos. It may be best if you take it to the LHS or people who are familiar with the linkage setup. There are other things to look out for also like if your servos are working over the limit (buzzing noise at the end travel?) on the throttle as well as on the steering servos. If those servo end points are not set correctly, you'll shorten the servo life.
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Old 02-26-2003, 12:09 PM   #435
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Default Throttle / Brake Servo - WOT

Throttle / Brake servo at full throttle.
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File Type: jpg throttle_wot.jpg (85.2 KB, 100 views)
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