R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-29-2004, 04:06 AM   #4231
Tech Elite
 
Sow&Steady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Va Va Voom!
Posts: 4,104
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bigknot
Sow and Inital D, in the article it mentions that that particular grub screw should be springy correct? Not tightened down all the way?


Sow - I have the FPS for the Impulse not the 705 unless they are the same.....

I have the Texas Biggie this weekend, I know I will come in dead last but there is an award for that!
bigknot, sorry for not coming back to answer this earlier but I see that D has done it already.

BTW, come in last this time but next time they better watch out 'cos you're going to learn lots here and you won't be so easy to beat!
__________________
http://3hobby.net REVISITED V2 - Its on steroids!
https://www.facebook.com/ssteady
Sow&Steady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 04:07 AM   #4232
Tech Elite
 
Sow&Steady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Va Va Voom!
Posts: 4,104
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by kumpol
Farewell to my old faithful 705......I will race it for the last time this weekend.....and then put it on my display (next to the Impulse)......
NEXT WEEK.......710 will be out instead.....
YES! You're THE man!
__________________
http://3hobby.net REVISITED V2 - Its on steroids!
https://www.facebook.com/ssteady
Sow&Steady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2004, 12:35 PM   #4233
Tech Adept
 
Jayjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 173
Send a message via AIM to Jayjp
Default

I got a question about the serpent spring rates:

Can anyone tell me the rates of the different colors?

I know, this has probably been asked before but I don't have the time to look through all the pages.......Any help would be greatly appreciated


Besides that my 705 is DIALED I took 2nd in the A main on Sunday and thats after getting hit so hard that my car was actually airborn I still finished the race and when I took it off I realized that my left rear shock had come off the tower.

I Love this car
Jayjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2004, 10:07 PM   #4234
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Raleigh/Boone, NC
Posts: 27
Send a message via AIM to theskunk Send a message via Yahoo to theskunk
Default

i need help.....

i just bought a used serpent 705, and the guy swears up and down that the clutch bell he gave me is stock for the 705, but the serpent thrust bearing/washer thing that everyone keeps giving me doesnt fit at all, it needs to be a good milimeter smaller to fit the clutch bell that i have.... im also loosing bearings in the clutchbell left and right.... i popped it open today after running just two tanks through, and all i saw were little balls from the thrust assem. pop out, as well as the ring seals from the bearings.... and i dont know what to do! im thinking about buying PUNISHER's 705 for parts and b/c i know its the actual factory clutchbell....

any advice?
thanks,
-Rob
theskunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2004, 10:54 PM   #4235
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TEXAS. USA
Posts: 1,219
Trader Rating: 2 (75%+)
Default

theshunk,
The bearing size inside the clutch bell should be a 5x10mm and a 5x13mm with a small spacer between the two bearings. A Mugen thrust bearing will work with the centaxII clutch. Make sure you are assembly the clutch right with all the spacing need……here is a link to help you.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=7&pid=6967

BTW- I have the stock clutch bell and the lighten optional clutch bell with my 705!
PUNISHER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2004, 11:00 PM   #4236
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Raleigh/Boone, NC
Posts: 27
Send a message via AIM to theskunk Send a message via Yahoo to theskunk
Default

Punisher,

can you check one of yoru clutch bells, and tell me if the inside of the outter portion has threads in it??? something about that just sounds wrong....

thanks,
-Rob
theskunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2004, 11:02 PM   #4237
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TEXAS. USA
Posts: 1,219
Trader Rating: 2 (75%+)
Default

There shouldn't be any threads inside the clutch bell.
PUNISHER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2004, 12:30 PM   #4238
Regional Moderator
 
kumpol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 970
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by theskunk
Punisher,

can you check one of yoru clutch bells, and tell me if the inside of the outter portion has threads in it??? something about that just sounds wrong....

thanks,
-Rob
centax I has threads....centax II has none...
kumpol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2004, 12:59 PM   #4239
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Raleigh/Boone, NC
Posts: 27
Send a message via AIM to theskunk Send a message via Yahoo to theskunk
Default

okay, so it looks like i have both a centax one and a centax 2 bell.... now i have no idea which to use.

the one with threads seems to need a smaller diameter thrust bearing.... which i cannot find. the one w/o threads looks to be stock, but i cannot get it to fit the way its supposed to, and i have no idea why.... i bought the bearings, and put it all together with the thrust bearing that is made for the car, and i have NO play with the clutch bell..... when i say no, i mean NONE.... and that is w/o any shims at all.

any advice would be appreciated.

-Rob
theskunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2004, 04:30 PM   #4240
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 100
Default

Rob the clutch bells are Serpents. The one that has the threads was for a dust cover. If you keep the thrust bearing lubed without fail it should not come apart like it did. I ran the bearing alot but never failed to grease the bearing with no trouble at all. You must do the neede maint. to get the desired result. Kevin Mac.
lowbugit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2004, 12:39 AM   #4241
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by theskunk
but the serpent thrust bearing/washer thing that everyone keeps giving me doesnt fit at all, it needs to be a good milimeter smaller to fit the clutch bell that i have....
Let me clear this for you. I think you have the Centax 1 clutchbell as you mentioned that you need about 1mm smaller to fit the thrust bearings in. Centax 2 uses 5x10x4 mm thrust bearing (same as MTX-3 and Centax 3 on the 710 as what Punisher mentioned) while Centax 1 uses 4x9x4 mm thrust bearings.

The picture below is the closest I have comparing the two clutchbells. The Centax 1 has more spacing in between the 1st and 2nd gear pinions.



As for tips to build the Centax clutch correctly, follow Glenn Cauley's latest Centax articles on mytsn to set the Centax clutch right. It may be for the 710 but the same principle of setting it up applies.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2004, 12:55 AM   #4242
Tech Master
 
Rapid Roy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: L.A. (Rowland Hts)
Posts: 1,531
Default

Hi, I have been racing my 705 and have a question about the front shock tower mounts. When I built my car, the screws that go through the front shock tower didn't go in straight. The holes in the bulkhead were a little narower then the holes in the tower. I threaded it in anyway and it worked. The screws were just a little angled. After a few races, the left screw backed out and fell out. No prob. I just got a new spacer and screw and went to the next race. After running the main I noticed that the screw was missing again. Looks like I stripped the bulkhead out.

For you guys who used to run 705's, is this a common problem? I'm going to replace the bulkhead and shock tower (the shock tower cracked after the last race). Will I have the same problem with the alignment? If so, should I slot the holes in the shock tower so the screws go straight in? I just want to make sure that I'm doing it right so this doesn't happen again. The last 2 races, in the mains, I was having control problems because this was happening. I could have finished much better.

Thanks in advance.
Rapid Roy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2004, 01:45 AM   #4243
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

I remember the problems regarding the front shock tower alignment but I thought I didn't have any problems on mine.

If I recalled correctly, one of the ways was to loosen the philips screws on the bottom of the chassis where the front bulkheads are and then screw down the front shock tower in on the front bulkhead. Then tighten the front bulkhead back again. I believe it's the same method as aligning the radio tray to the top of the front bulkhead too.

If you stripped the holes, you could get a longer M3 screw and a M3 nut. That's what I did. Long enough that it comes out on the other side of the bulkhead. The M3 nut locks the screw on the opposite side.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2004, 07:39 PM   #4244
Tech Master
 
Rapid Roy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: L.A. (Rowland Hts)
Posts: 1,531
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I remember the problems regarding the front shock tower alignment but I thought I didn't have any problems on mine.

If I recalled correctly, one of the ways was to loosen the philips screws on the bottom of the chassis where the front bulkheads are and then screw down the front shock tower in on the front bulkhead. Then tighten the front bulkhead back again. I believe it's the same method as aligning the radio tray to the top of the front bulkhead too.

If you stripped the holes, you could get a longer M3 screw and a M3 nut. That's what I did. Long enough that it comes out on the other side of the bulkhead. The M3 nut locks the screw on the opposite side.
Thanks for the tip on the longer screws. I'll do that.

One more question. Is it worth the trouble the double up the shock tower for extra strength? The current one is just cracked a little so I was thinking about CAing it to the new one.
Rapid Roy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2004, 08:00 PM   #4245
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
One more question. Is it worth the trouble the double up the shock tower for extra strength? The current one is just cracked a little so I was thinking about CAing it to the new one.
I don't think you'll do any harm doubling up the front shock tower.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 710 Ron C. Nitro On-Road 23347 03-16-2010 02:47 PM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:33 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net