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Old 02-02-2004, 02:27 PM   #4111
Que
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Anyone can use smilies in there post but if you use them in a maner consistant with trying to be a smart @zz then you will get flamed for it.

I treat everyone like this not because i am trying to be a smart @zz but it gets a little anoying when a bunch of people start using them to lash out at each other! that's not good. it is just another way to down grade someone! And i don't get down like that for anyone. unless they deserve it.

as far as your advise is concerned thank you that is what i was looking for And i only said that i wanted D's response because i thought you were trying to be smart. any response from anyone that is helpful is all ways appreaciated thanks!
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:09 AM   #4112
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Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
Ok i have a new 705 problem. At a recent race day i lost a drive shaft and its cup on the front one way during a race. I brang the car in and just removed the side belt and continued on in 2wd. For the next race i got my hands on a Mugen Mtx3 cup. The only real difference was the shaft that goes into the one way was a bit shorter than the serpent ones.
Now a few weeks later that side of the one way doesnt spin as well as the other side and has a very slight squeek to it. I have since replaced tha cup with the serpent spares.

My question is does serpent make a solid front axle for the 705 and would this possibly be quicker to drive with setup alterations?

I am guessing there is no real way to bring the one way back to its origional condition. I ran it for about 15 mins withough the cup and went of the track a few times into the grass during this time.
Any ideas anyone?
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:22 AM   #4113
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Sorry didn't know that InitialD is the only one allowed to use smilies.
Hey guys, cool it ! Please play it nice. Sorry I could not reply as quickly as I could. Having some problems with my ISP and I'm using normal dialup !

Anyway, Schrijver99 is right about the FPS and ball diff differences.

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
The standard balldiff takes alot of time to adjust. But a great option to counter this is to use the External Diff Adjuster.
What I find when I use the diff adjuster with the ball diff is that the initial settings will run. I think it's because the diff adjuster expands / contracts with temperature and usage. That was what I found on the 710. You need to "run in" the external diff adjuster. When that is done, the performance can be somewhat OK as it keeps the settings throughout the race. Just don't be surprise that the diff will be hard when the car cools down or you find that the car is a little taily the first few rounds on the track.

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
If you use this one; you need to polish the outside of the dif where the external dif adjuster turns (see pic)
Again, you're right on this one. The ones on the 710 are already polished in the factory. I think Rob Kuijpers posted a tip on this for the 705 before the 710 was announced. You can find it here.

Anyway, on the 705, I prefer the ball diff mod with the FPS diff pulley and the FPS diff balls in it.
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Old 02-03-2004, 06:55 AM   #4114
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Hey thanks D i was wondering i am using the FPS and my rear belt is the stock one and it is tight!! should i be running a different belt with this diff?
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:06 AM   #4115
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Hey thanks D i was wondering i am using the FPS and my rear belt is the stock one and it is tight!! should i be running a different belt with this diff?
you probably have the 47 tooth spur gear in your diff you are going to have to change it to the 46 tooth for the impulse/pro/705
this is the part #801395
link for 46 tooth gear
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:53 AM   #4116
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Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
Any ideas anyone?
There is a solid axle available but its made of alloy and doesnt last long before the setscews wear out the ends (my went in 2 days). You can do a mod that will help. This involves cutting off the end lugs and using a lathe to drill out the center to fit a steel bar. This is held by a setscrew through the hex. I am not too sure on the part number but you should be able to find it on mytsn.

As for your problem with the one-way. I had the same thing after running in heavy rain. Its the bearing is lacking oil. Try applying the Serpent one-way lube or even some 3-in1 oil does the trick. That should restore it. If not you should be able to remove the squeaky bearing and install a new one.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:11 AM   #4117
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Hey thanks D i was wondering i am using the FPS and my rear belt is the stock one and it is tight!! should i be running a different belt with this diff?
No. You should not be needing to use a different rear belt !

Like what R12 mentioned, you could be pairing a wrong pulley that makes it tight.
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:11 AM   #4118
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
There is a solid axle available but its made of alloy and doesnt last long before the setscews wear out the ends (my went in 2 days). You can do a mod that will help. This involves cutting off the end lugs and using a lathe to drill out the center to fit a steel bar. This is held by a setscrew through the hex. I am not too sure on the part number but you should be able to find it on mytsn.

As for your problem with the one-way. I had the same thing after running in heavy rain. Its the bearing is lacking oil. Try applying the Serpent one-way lube or even some 3-in1 oil does the trick. That should restore it. If not you should be able to remove the squeaky bearing and install a new one.

Hope this helps.
i have used this solid axle from serpent for about 3 years without any problems and they are inexpensive about $10.00 and is Part: 801240
Solid axle from Serpent
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:30 AM   #4119
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Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
My question is does serpent make a solid front axle for the 705 and would this possibly be quicker to drive with setup alterations?
bleach1, sorry I missed this post ! You can try Serpent's 801240 solid axle and I have to agree with what modellor mentioned that the stock solid axle does not stand up. You could do as what modellor suggested but this is what I have done and modified on my one way. This is what I posted on the 705 forum.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Here are some pics of the mod that I made. Have not tested it yet but my guess is that it should hold up.

As the stock Serpent solid front axle (801240) is not as reliable with the pro drive cup adapters (801393), the modified one way to solid axle is more reliable. The best part about this mod is that you can switch from one way front diff to a solid front axle and vice versa very easily.

The only downside is that it's slightly heavier but I will not mind trading a little bit of weight for more reliability.



The details;

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
For each one way drive shaft, two holes are drilled and tapped for M4 grub screws. The holes will clear the one way bearing as the size of the one way bearing is 12 mm (6 x 10 x 12) and the holes are drilled at 15 mm from the sides of the aluminum shaft and will be situated exactly at the end tip of the one way drive shaft.

These two holes for each one way drive shaft will be 90 degree right angles apart from each other to provide better support. To aid the grub screws to secure better onto the one way drive shafts, flat spots are filed at 90 degree right angles apart.

The left side of the shaft will have two M4 grub screws under the 24T pulley. So with the complete assembly, these two grub screws are hidden as they are beneath the 24T pulley.



The tools;

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
3.2 mm drill bit
Hand tap holder
M4 Hand tap



Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
I am guessing there is no real way to bring the one way back to its origional condition. I ran it for about 15 mins withough the cup and went of the track a few times into the grass during this time.
Well, it's pretty hard to tell. The one way bearing may be a little dirty. Take the thing off and clean it with a nitro blaster / degreaser. Blow it dry and lube the one way with Serpent's one way lube (1680).
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:34 AM   #4120
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
bleach1, sorry I missed this post ! You can try Serpent's 801240 solid axle and I have to agree with what modellor mentioned that the stock solid axle does not stand up. You could do as what modellor suggested but this is what I have done and modified on my one way. This is what I posted on the 705 forum.



The details;



The tools;





Well, it's pretty hard to tell. The one way bearing may be a little dirty. Take the thing off and clean it with a nitro blaster / degreaser. Blow it dry and lube the one way with Serpent's one way lube (1680).
with this mod , is the front axle balanced? or is it going to cause a vibration when the axle is rotating at 50 mph?
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:07 AM   #4121
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Quote:
Originally posted by r12 schumacher
with this mod , is the front axle balanced? or is it going to cause a vibration when the axle is rotating at 50 mph?
There will be a very slight imbalance from having the setscrews both to one side but due to the setscrews being so small and light it would not really show a great deal. Placing the grub screws at 180 degs (opposite) to each other will make for better balancing and should be easier to tap as you can drill straight through both sides in one go.

A side note to everyone.

Tapping tools can be expensive so here is a little tip if you dont want to spend a lot of money on them. You should be able to make the threads using the setscrew itself. The alloy is soft enough to allow the steel setscrew to cut into it. Just be sure to use a good allen driver and not the L-keys that come with the kit.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:42 AM   #4122
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Quote:
Originally posted by r12 schumacher
with this mod , is the front axle balanced? or is it going to cause a vibration when the axle is rotating at 50 mph?
The imbalanced mass due to the loss of mass of the one way driveshaft or the added mass due to the set screw is pretty close to the axis of rotation.

Anyway, the part of the loss of mass due to the flat spot in the one way drive shaft is the same location where the set screws are mounted (added mass). I guess if there was any mass imbalanced, it would be very little.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:44 AM   #4123
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
There will be a very slight imbalance from having the setscrews both to one side but due to the setscrews being so small and light it would not really show a great deal. Placing the grub screws at 180 degs (opposite) to each other will make for better balancing and should be easier to tap as you can drill straight through both sides in one go.
I did not use set screws at 180 degree opposite directions because it does not provide self locking when both set screws are tightened. Putting the set screws at 90 degree angles support each of the set screw mountings due to resisting and locking the rotation of the one way driveshaft in one direction.

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Tapping tools can be expensive so here is a little tip if you dont want to spend a lot of money on them. You should be able to make the threads using the setscrew itself. The alloy is soft enough to allow the steel setscrew to cut into it. Just be sure to use a good allen driver and not the L-keys that come with the kit.
modellor, the tapping tool is inexpensive. Going by the exchange rates, it's about close to 3 British pounds !

The aluminum on the one way shaft may be soft but I rather have a truer cutting of threads from the tapping tool.
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Old 02-04-2004, 01:26 AM   #4124
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Hey D thanks for all the help! How do you fit a touring body with the floating rear mount? I used to be able to cut the tips off the one on my V ONE RR and screw additional body posts on but it doesen't look like i will be able to do so with the 835 floating rear mount. please help
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Old 02-04-2004, 02:08 AM   #4125
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I had a little crash yesterday with my 705. I snapped one of the front shock shafts. I went to my local serpent dealer and they were out of 705 shock shafts but sold me a Xray set. I fitted the new shafts with the supplied discs from the xray pack. The action seems to work well and if anything be a bit smoother. Im guessing that some of the parts such as shock components on the xray are the same as the serpents.

I also found that after the crash which was on the front left wheel seems to have put the wheel out of balance. I was told that boiling the wheel may bring it back to a resonable form. Has anyone ever had this work for them as the wheel is almost brand new?
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