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Old 01-29-2004, 08:39 PM   #4096
Que
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I guess whether you wanted to use a spacer on the car to change the rear roll center would depend on your setup and driving style. Angling the upper arms by the use of spacers makes the rear roll center higher. Car corners flatter but like what you say, you may or may not want it on your Lola setup.

I did the rear upper arm mod on mine basically to get the rear trackwidth down to below 200 mm while still being able to use -4 camber in the rear wheels. The ability to snug in a spacer was secondary actually as it was an accidental discovery ! I found that running less than 200 mm in the rear made the car more agile and nimble.

Anyway, shortening the rear upper arms does make the rear upper arms angle a little. This itself makes for a higher rear roll center.
I will let the flatter cornering work be done by the sway bars! I don't think that i would cut the arm in half like you did with your mod it looks like it compromised the strenght of the arms. Also i don't think i need it any more responsive than it is right now!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:56 PM   #4097
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
I will let the flatter cornering work be done by the sway bars! I don't think that i would cut the arm in half like you did with your mod it looks like it compromised the strenght of the arms. Also i don't think i need it any more responsive than it is right now!!!!!!!!!
Oh no... I think you're mistaken here. If you had driven the 710 and played around with the adjustable rear roll center, you will notice that with a higher roll center, the rear of the car rotates VERY easily when compared to lower roll center. Very fast in and out of the corners. I don't quite like it but some drivers prefer this. I guess it's just a matter of whether the Tx end is able to control it !

Playing around with the rear sway bars will affect on power steering. Playing with the rear roll centers will not affect the on power steering balance.

Anyway, I think I'm confused here. You mentioned earlier that you modded your upper rear arms already with the dremel. So now you say you have not?
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:22 PM   #4098
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Oh no... I think you're mistaken here. If you had driven the 710 and played around with the adjustable rear roll center, you will notice that with a higher roll center, the rear of the car rotates VERY easily when compared to lower roll center. Very fast in and out of the corners. I don't quite like it but some drivers prefer this. I guess it's just a matter of whether the Tx end is able to control it !

Playing around with the rear sway bars will affect on power steering. Playing with the rear roll centers will not affect the on power steering balance.

Anyway, I think I'm confused here. You mentioned earlier that you modded your upper rear arms already with the dremel. So now you say you have not?
I did mod the arms not like you did but i took the dremel with a rough grinding tool and the front of the arms where the curve is i redeced the angle of the corner and took off more than half the thickness of the front are and took a little of the top of the pivot ball area then polished it up with a light sanding tool

I have yet to drive my 710 waiting to get a new power plant as my .12 MS turbo 3 port is still in my 705. so you think i should run as large a spacer as i can get to fit in there? I would help my handeling with out having to increase my rear swaybar tension
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:20 PM   #4099
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
so you think i should run as large a spacer as i can get to fit in there? I would help my handeling with out having to increase my rear swaybar tension
I think that would depend on your overall car setup and driving preference. But as Julius mentioned, they found that putting a 4 mm spacer is somewhat the best compromise for the 705.
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Old 01-29-2004, 11:24 PM   #4100
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what would two engine mount flat washers equal in mm
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Old 01-29-2004, 11:29 PM   #4101
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Originally posted by Que
what would two engine mount flat washers equal in mm
I believe it's 5 mm seeing that one is 2.5 mm thick.

If you have small blown out bearings, keep their casings ! They are very good spacers. Another tip I learned about spacers is that you can use the ones from the Centax II thrust bearing. I don't know how thick they are but if you have some around, you can use them too.
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:24 AM   #4102
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Hey D can you please repost pictures of the clutch shoe mod the one where the 3 fly weights are cut to fit between the posts on the flywheel
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:47 PM   #4103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Hey D can you please repost pictures of the clutch shoe mod the one where the 3 fly weights are cut to fit between the posts on the flywheel
Is this for 710 or 705? The recent one I posted was for 710. If you're interested, find the info on that thread.
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:55 AM   #4104
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Ok i have a new 705 problem. At a recent race day i lost a drive shaft and its cup on the front one way during a race. I brang the car in and just removed the side belt and continued on in 2wd. For the next race i got my hands on a Mugen Mtx3 cup. The only real difference was the shaft that goes into the one way was a bit shorter than the serpent ones.
Now a few weeks later that side of the one way doesnt spin as well as the other side and has a very slight squeek to it. I have since replaced tha cup with the serpent spares.

My question is does serpent make a solid front axle for the 705 and would this possibly be quicker to drive with setup alterations?

I am guessing there is no real way to bring the one way back to its origional condition. I ran it for about 15 mins withough the cup and went of the track a few times into the grass during this time.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:43 AM   #4105
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Default Rear camber

I apologize if this matter has been already discussed in this thread, but there is any way or mod to set the rear camber without changing the track width?
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Old 02-02-2004, 05:09 AM   #4106
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Ok found the mod for the clutch and it is installed Next question is which is the better diff for the rear i have the FPS diff and the rear belt seams real tight i also have the stock 705 diff and the FPS is much heavier is there any performance difference between the two should i change back to the original or update to the 710 adjustable diff with the external diff adjuster?
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Old 02-02-2004, 05:39 AM   #4107
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Read an earlier post (same page) from InitialD. He made a perfect post about the FPS and standard balldiff.
Thx master D

Please read the posts before asking a question.
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Old 02-02-2004, 07:01 AM   #4108
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Read an earlier post (same page) from InitialD. He made a perfect post about the FPS and standard balldiff.
Thx master D

Please read the posts before asking a question.
whatever
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Old 02-02-2004, 07:09 AM   #4109
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Read an earlier post (same page) from InitialD. He made a perfect post about the FPS and standard balldiff.
Thx master D

Please read the posts before asking a question.
If you would read my post correctly i was asking his opinion as to which is better he said that the fps diff was smother but heavier i wanted his opinion as to which was better performance wise. I am still looking for a answer from master D Not you and if you are going to make suggestions i sugest that you stop with the smilies like you are trying to be smart or something
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:17 PM   #4110
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
If you would read my post correctly i was asking his opinion as to which is better he said that the fps diff was smother but heavier i wanted his opinion as to which was better performance wise. I am still looking for a answer from master D Not you and if you are going to make suggestions i sugest that you stop with the smilies like you are trying to be smart or something
Sorry didn't know that InitialD is the only one allowed to use smilies.

And for my opinion about the FPS and standard balldiff:

If you want the best and easiest way to a adjust your diff use an FPS, it's will always keep the same setting during a race. But because of the weight the diff needs more power from the engine to start turning so its slower to drive.

If you you want to go fast, use the standard balldiff with diff adjuster.
The standard balldiff takes alot of time to adjust. But a great option to counter this is to use the External Diff Adjuster. If you use this one; you need to polish the outside of the dif where the external dif adjuster turns (see pic)

But than again you didn't ask my advise.
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