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Old 01-25-2004, 06:49 PM   #4081
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Can you show me your mod for the rear upper arms. and what part numbers they are! it would be very useful!!
I believe the mod uses cut down 1/8th wishbones for adjustability.
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Old 01-26-2004, 07:26 AM   #4082
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What parts are involved with this mod! Looks like easier camber adjustment without messing with track width! what are the part numbers i would need to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:26 AM   #4083
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
I believe the mod uses cut down 1/8th wishbones for adjustability.
Yes, a set of blotched up 950 rear upper adjustable arms (902303/04) to be exact.
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:29 AM   #4084
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
What parts are involved with this mod! Looks like easier camber adjustment without messing with track width! what are the part numbers i would need to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Modellor is right. I used the 950 rear upper adjustable arms in the beginning. However, I needed to trim a lot to make it fit on the 705. Even after installation, the modded upper rear arms did not line up nicely on the rear knuckles and this caused a little strain.

I then took it out and modded the stock 705 rear upper arms instead. From the idea I got from the 950 rear upper adjustable arms, I shortened it by cutting it into half, drilled holes into the 2 arms so that a single and long enough M3 grub / stud screw can be screwed into one of the arms. The other arm also screws into the same stud / grub screw and this enables both ends of the arms to be joined together. That was a better mod. Picture below shows what it looks like in the end.



I was able to use a -4 camber in the rear tires while still able to keep the rear trackwidth to 198 mm.
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Old 01-27-2004, 03:43 AM   #4085
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Would the stock 705 upper arms be strong enough if i just removed the front portion of the arm that is where i am having the rubbing problem anyway. maybe i could remove the front of the arm and cut it and ca it with some to form a shorter triangle with the arm
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:46 AM   #4086
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Default Rear diff

InitialD,
I saw your rear diff, it's look a little bit different than the original mine!
Could please be so kind to explain which type is it and which are the driving differences?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-27-2004, 07:06 AM   #4087
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Default Re: Rear diff

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
Could please be so kind to explain which type is it and which are the driving differences?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=433

More then enough info there to get you on your way.
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Old 01-27-2004, 08:09 AM   #4088
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Default Re: Rear diff

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
InitialD,
I saw your rear diff, it's look a little bit different than the original mine!
Could please be so kind to explain which type is it and which are the driving differences?
Thanks in advance.
here is the article from mytsn.com

QUESTION CATEGORY: Set-up RELATED PRODUCT: FPS-differential
How Will This Work??
How Will the FPS Differential Work With The Solid front Diff On the Impulse 4wd or would it be better to Use the front 1 way Diff ? Thank You Norman
Julius Kolff (NL) 06.12.01 at 09:37
It will work the same as using the stock Impulse diff, but the FPS diff will give you a lot more adjustability. You can vary the diff action instantly instead of messing around with different grease and oil types in the diff. In combination with the front one way, you can adjust the FPS diff from a loose open diff, upto a fully locked rear axle. That way you can fine tune the balance to suit your style of driving and track.
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Old 01-27-2004, 07:23 PM   #4089
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Would the stock 705 upper arms be strong enough if i just removed the front portion of the arm that is where i am having the rubbing problem anyway.
Like I mention this previously, the stock upper rear arms are the most durable part of the 705 / Impulse. I don't think Serpent sold a lot of these as spare parts ! Looking at how other cars are made especially when they rely on just camber links in the rear, the modded rear upper arm should hold up fine as it does on mine.
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Old 01-27-2004, 07:44 PM   #4090
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Default Re: Rear diff

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
I saw your rear diff, it's look a little bit different than the original mine!
EVOLUTION pretty much gave you THE link. The function if the FPS diff is pretty much the same as the ball diff that comes with the 705. However, the diff action on the FPS is smoother and can be adjusted externally without taking off the guts of the diff, albeit at the expense of 30 grams heavier !

Note that you can make the 705 ball diff the same as the one included with the 710 with the external adjustability feature that can be found on the FPS. Just add the External Diff Adjuster set (801434) to the stock 705 ball diff. If you have already changed to the newer rear diff pulley (46T or 47T), the 3 additional holes in the pulley are already included. You just need to buy the diff adjuster alone (801435).

Or if you're like me, I use the FPS rear diff pulley (808396 for 47T and 901395 for 46T) on the 705 ball diff. That way I do not need to use the External Diff Adjuster as with the tip of building a ball diff below and with the FPS rear diff pulley design with the extra lip to cover dust, I am able to tune the ball diff externally.

I've posted this on the 705 thread on the nitro forum. Thanks to Proficar43 and EVOLUTION. I'll copy it here again for convenience;

1. Put locktite 242 (blue) on the threads of the long Diff axle (right side) (801432) and NOT on the diff adjustment screw (left side) (801433). No locktite on the grub screw (1259) either.

2. Assemble back the diffs without the grub screw (1259).

3. Leave the diff assembly for an hour or so for the loctite to cure and put the grub screw (1259) back in the right long diff axle (801432) to keep dirt out.

4. To adjust externally, make sure the left side of the diff axle (801431) and the hole of the diff adjustment screw (801433) align so that a 1.5 mm allen wrench can be put through the holes. Turn the right wheel to adjust diff setting. Clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to loosen.


Here is a pic of my old Impulse PRO which had this modified diff on.

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Old 01-28-2004, 12:05 AM   #4091
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Strange, I thought no one was posting on the 705 anymore, but it seems I wasn't beeing alerted to updates

The end of the Germany winter is in sight well, I'm ever hopefull

@Lord D: any news of the secret one-way project. I should be able to get running by the middle of Feb and the solid axel is way too soft for long term use

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-28-2004, 12:44 AM   #4092
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Strange, I thought no one was posting on the 705 anymore, but it seems I wasn't beeing alerted to updates
Still alive and kicking ! Where are your pics? Hopefully it's ready for Friday pics frenzy !

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
@Lord D: any news of the secret one-way project. I should be able to get running by the middle of Feb and the solid axel is way too soft for long term use
My apologies Mark ! I just dug out your PM received somewhere just after coming back from Thailand, after Christmas / New Year and before Chinese New Year ! In between the 710, PM getting screwed up and trying to make datelines, I shoved it aside in a folder and forgot all about it. Reorganising my PMs before it gets filled quickly again is tiresome !

Well, I managed to drill the holes in the one way before Christmas. Hope to have some respite soon and you'll hear from me hopefully before the winter ends.
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Old 01-28-2004, 12:58 AM   #4093
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Still alive and kicking ! Where are your pics? Hopefully it's ready for Friday pics frenzy !
Acutally I'm modifying my photoshop filter to be able to remove levels of dirt not normally seen on this planet
The 705 isn't in a fit state to be seen



Quote:
My apologies Mark ! I just dug out your PM received somewhere just after coming back from Thailand, after Christmas / New Year and before Chinese New Year ! In between the 710, PM getting screwed up and trying to make datelines, I shoved it aside in a folder and forgot all about it. Reorganising my PMs before it gets filled quickly again is tiresome !

Well, I managed to drill the holes in the one way before Christmas. Hope to have some respite soon and you'll hear from me hopefully before the winter ends.
No problem I knew you'd be busy with the 710

I'm still having lots of fun with the Surikarn and need to build my VectorNT back together.
I also got a really good deal on a 1/12th Corally SP12G3, which I couldn't resist! I'm just too scared to drive it at the moment - they are supposed to be real rockets!!!

But all told, I'm really looking forward to starting up the nitro engine again and blasting around the Nuremberg track - nothing like the noise

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-29-2004, 04:23 PM   #4094
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Modellor is right. I used the 950 rear upper adjustable arms in the beginning. However, I needed to trim a lot to make it fit on the 705. Even after installation, the modded upper rear arms did not line up nicely on the rear knuckles and this caused a little strain.

I then took it out and modded the stock 705 rear upper arms instead. From the idea I got from the 950 rear upper adjustable arms, I shortened it by cutting it into half, drilled holes into the 2 arms so that a single and long enough M3 grub / stud screw can be screwed into one of the arms. The other arm also screws into the same stud / grub screw and this enables both ends of the arms to be joined together. That was a better mod. Picture below shows what it looks like in the end.



I was able to use a -4 camber in the rear tires while still able to keep the rear trackwidth to 198 mm.
I took out my dremel and modded the upper arms and now it works great i have a space i could probably get a 4mm spacer in there now. but why would i want to raise the arms up now that i have the floating rear mount on and plan to only use lola bodys
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:08 PM   #4095
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
I took out my dremel and modded the upper arms and now it works great i have a space i could probably get a 4mm spacer in there now. but why would i want to raise the arms up now that i have the floating rear mount on and plan to only use lola bodys
I guess whether you wanted to use a spacer on the car to change the rear roll center would depend on your setup and driving style. Angling the upper arms by the use of spacers makes the rear roll center higher. Car corners flatter but like what you say, you may or may not want it on your Lola setup.

I did the rear upper arm mod on mine basically to get the rear trackwidth down to below 200 mm while still being able to use -4 camber in the rear wheels. The ability to snug in a spacer was secondary actually as it was an accidental discovery ! I found that running less than 200 mm in the rear made the car more agile and nimble.

Anyway, shortening the rear upper arms does make the rear upper arms angle a little. This itself makes for a higher rear roll center.
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