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Old 01-18-2004, 07:37 AM   #4066
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
On a side note, I put all 4 aluminum shock bodies on my 710 and they felt way "heavy" ! I never knew it made such a difference to the plastic ones.
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:43 AM   #4067
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:27 AM   #4068
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

On a side note, I put all 4 aluminum shock bodies on my 710 and they felt way "heavy" ! I never knew it made such a difference to the plastic ones.
I use them too, works great we you and I live!
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Old 01-18-2004, 05:28 PM   #4069
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I use them too, works great we you and I live!
I think I will revert to the plastic ones. While they are not so rugged as the aluminum ones, I think it is easier to set and get the correct shock rebound on the plastic ones. I actually have not seen any difference as to the performance of the shocks. But that's just me.
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Old 01-23-2004, 05:53 AM   #4070
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Damn tweak. Ok i have tired to sort out my spinning out at the end of hard braking problems and it is alot better but still exists on lower grip surfaces. I have a problem getting everything setup nicely though as i dont have a setup station. I have been told by a very respected local racer who has alot of experience with the 705 a way to set my droop correctly with just a set of verniers.
Disconnect sway bars and lay chassis flat on table. Adjust the droop at the front so the lower arms are flat the to table surface. Then for the rears adjust so that the bottom of the hub is 7mm off the flat surface. Does this sound like a decent way of setting up with no realy set up equipment?


This problem should be more related to rear suspension setting to front shouldnt it?

I also seem to be getting a bit of brake fade, does the 705 have this problem ussually?
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Old 01-23-2004, 08:13 AM   #4071
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Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
Disconnect sway bars and lay chassis flat on table. Adjust the droop at the front so the lower arms are flat the to table surface. Then for the rears adjust so that the bottom of the hub is 7mm off the flat surface. Does this sound like a decent way of setting up with no realy set up equipment?
Yes, that can do. That would mean 0 mm droop front and 7 mm droop rear. I would add one more step. Check the droop also after you put back your rear sway bars.

Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
This problem should be more related to rear suspension setting to front shouldnt it?
Yes, the problem you described is more of a rear droop problem. I suggest that in addition to the above, you need to do the eye balling method of checking equal rear droop. Pick a center point in the rear of the 705 chassis with a sharp knife or tool. Make sure that the left and right tires will lift off the ground at the same time. This is with the rear sway bars on. If they do not lift the same, then something is tweaked. Assuming that you've got left and right droop the same, you should adjust the length of the sway bars to get equal tweak left and right.

Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
I also seem to be getting a bit of brake fade, does the 705 have this problem ussually?
Yes, a way to lessen brake fade is to get the vented brake disc. You could either go with 801345 or the later 9606 vented brake disc.

Also, what I personally do is this. On my Tx, I set the EPA on the brakes to max at 120%. Then I adjust my dual rate which can be accessed easily with the thumb on my 3PK to just enough brakes. When I find brakes are lacking, I up the dual rate on the brakes on the fly during a race or during a pitstop.
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Old 01-23-2004, 09:04 AM   #4072
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Default ? Lola conversion

I have the parts but it seam that the upper arms don't fit in between the uprights for the floating body mount?
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Old 01-23-2004, 09:43 PM   #4073
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Que,
The 7mm standoffs for the upper arms are too long to allow the floating body mounts to fit. InitialD used smaller standoffs to fix this problem. Some people just remove them.
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:55 PM   #4074
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Que,
The 7mm standoffs for the upper arms are too long to allow the floating body mounts to fit. InitialD used smaller standoffs to fix this problem. Some people just remove them.
Yes, that is correct. I use about 2.5 mm spacers with the rear floating mount.
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Old 01-24-2004, 07:05 AM   #4075
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Do i need to file down the upper control arms because even with out the spacers it seems like it is rubbing
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Old 01-24-2004, 08:35 AM   #4076
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Do i need to file down the upper control arms because even with out the spacers it seems like it is rubbing
Strange. Even with 2.5 mm spacers, the arms do not experience any sort of rub when the shocks compress.

What rear trackwidth are you running? I know that if you use a smaller rear trackwidth (say 198 mm or so), I can somehow sneak in a 3 mm spacer without rubbing still... Just a thought.
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Old 01-25-2004, 01:22 AM   #4077
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What are you using for spacers
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Old 01-25-2004, 08:57 AM   #4078
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I think that i will still have to do some grinding on the upper arm to get it to work if you have the chassis slamed to the track then you have the room. but the 705 just became my outlaw racer and lot basher since i have the 710. I need to set the car up higher off the ground since it doesent always run on perfect surfaces.

Now i also have a FPS diff i got off ebay on here and it will not turn because of the bottom of the floating mount where the guide goes up and down is rubbing the teeth of the gear on the FPS is it to big? What size gear should i run on the FPS? Or should i convert to the one on my 710 it is smaller and lighter!
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Old 01-25-2004, 09:52 AM   #4079
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
I think that i will still have to do some grinding on the upper arm to get it to work if you have the chassis slamed to the track then you have the room.
I use the shims for the engine mounting screw (2.5 mm thick) as spacers. You could even use blown out bearing cases as spacers. I modded my upper rear arms so that I can use a narrower rear trackwidth below 200 mm. By doing so, I could even put a 3 mm spacer. Below is a pic of my 705 with the rear floating mount.



Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Now i also have a FPS diff i got off ebay on here and it will not turn because of the bottom of the floating mount where the guide goes up and down is rubbing the teeth of the gear on the FPS is it to big?
It's OK if the pulley rubs the bottom of the floating rear mount. After a while, it does not anymore.

Quote:
Originally posted by Que
What size gear should i run on the FPS? Or should i convert to the one on my 710 it is smaller and lighter!
I run with the stock 46T or 47T with the lower internal ratio option. If you use the rear diff pulley from the 710 (45T) to replace the 46T stock pulley on the 705, you'll underdrive the the 705 (rear wheels pushing the front). You'll need about 1.5 mm bigger front wheels to get 1:1 overdrive.

Besides, the 710 one is a ball diff while the FPS diff has a different pulley construction.
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Old 01-25-2004, 04:47 PM   #4080
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Can you show me your mod for the rear upper arms. and what part numbers they are! it would be very useful!!
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