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Old 11-03-2003, 09:20 PM   #3931
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Awesome Pyramid!!
Thanks for the pics on the 710.
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Old 11-04-2003, 12:13 AM   #3932
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Default 710, 7+1+0=8 !!

Looks very promising!!

In chinesse way if you sum the number and get an eight (8) it means "Fat" (not in English way!). "Fat" if Im not wrong means prosper.

Lets toast for this prosperous baby.
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Old 11-04-2003, 04:44 AM   #3933
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid



Price will be 10% higher than S705 when it hits the market first week of December... I think the design incorporate some rainning test
Somehow, It seems like G4 with fully hopup !.. Anyone know about gear ratio of new 710 ?
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Old 11-04-2003, 08:21 AM   #3934
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Default Re: 710, 7+1+0=8 !!

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Looks very promising!!

In chinesse way if you sum the number and get an eight (8) it means "Fat" (not in English way!). "Fat" if Im not wrong means prosper.

Lets toast for this prosperous baby.
I think you have it wrong 8 = "Fat" is only if you speak Cantonese
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:03 AM   #3935
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
It's a tip i got from a team driver (stanley Bauer), if you polish the part that is red in the picture, the dif will be more adjustable for better control.
This tip is just posted on mytsn by Rob Kuijper.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=9233

I have not had the need to use the diff adjuster yet. I'm still keeping to the FPS diff pulley (with FPS diff pulley balls) I'm using on the ball diff. Still very smooth diff action and I have not need to service it yet !

The mod to put loctite on the diff adjuster screws is fantastic as I can adjust the diff externally !
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:14 AM   #3936
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Default Solid Front Axle Revisited...

Ok, dream mode off guys... Back to solid ground !

I had one and a half tank test last Saturday on a non technical high speed track with hairpin corners after the straights. Well, my own mistake. Forgot to replace the fuel and bring it with me to the track !!

The front solid axle mod held nice. I had no problems turning the car at hairpins. Just that the car did not handle more smoothly and more predictable in the turns than a one way front handled. Just my perception. I found that at low speeds, I had enough steering and oversteered a little at times. When the car was at reasonable speed, it understeered a little (more on power than off power) especially at one of the short sweeper before the straight. For short tight technical tracks, I did not encounter any problems though. I guess you need sufficient speed around the corner before the "problem" come up.

I guess I'll try a little more rear droop on my next run which I think would cure the problem.
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Old 11-04-2003, 11:59 AM   #3937
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The tank is still there .

Looks as predicted otherwise. Would be interesting to know if the car uses 0.8 gears.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:59 PM   #3938
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For those who didnt notice it looks as if they have a new diff in the front or changed the gear to a larger one. Follow the belt from the top plate to the front of the car and you will see what I mean you can see the lettering or numbers on the belt near the top inside of the shock if im not mistaken
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:26 PM   #3939
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I agree with you serpentracer,, that's why the radio plate is positioned more to the center of the car and the upper bumper plate support is not there as always
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:35 PM   #3940
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
For those who didnt notice it looks as if they have a new diff in the front or changed the gear to a larger one.
Change of gear means change of internal ratio... I believe this is what a lot of people are looking for.
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Old 11-04-2003, 08:34 PM   #3941
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Quote:
Change of gear means change of internal ratio... I believe this is what a lot of people are looking for

...


And...no more broken roll over bar (not steal, save some weight ...
)
Rear swaybar looks thinner with a grub screw holding it.

And no more big screws especially at the front section where normally there are 4 big screws.
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Old 11-04-2003, 08:47 PM   #3942
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Default Magazine Photo 710 (RC Driver)

4 MM Chassis, Below deck steering servo, graphite radio tray, unique adjustable front and rear roll-centers, active rear-toe change, multiple position shock brackets, externally adjustable shocks, low inertia CENTAX III clutch, fine pictch pinions and gears, externally adjustable rear diff, easy access split front and rear axle blocks, race proven quality and durability.
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:01 PM   #3943
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Default Re: Magazine Photo 710 (RC Driver)

Quote:
Originally posted by PhatPat
4 MM Chassis, Below deck steering servo, graphite radio tray, unique adjustable front and rear roll-centers, active rear-toe change, multiple position shock brackets, externally adjustable shocks, low inertia CENTAX III clutch, fine pictch pinions and gears, externally adjustable rear diff, easy access split front and rear axle blocks, race proven quality and durability.
Thanks for the pic ! Centax III?

So it is true that it comes with a 0.8 module gearing...

proficar403 (Arun), I think the next time you think of something excellent like the split rear bulkheads, patent it man !!
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:01 PM   #3944
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Default Re: Solid Front Axle Revisited...

[QUOTE]Originally posted by InitialD
[B]Ok, dream mode off guys... Back to solid ground !

Actually i made my own SS FR solid axle and the car handling was awesome!
No problem at low speed steering even in tight hairpin. Yes, it was not as smooth as FR 1way, but mine is more predictable in putting consistant lap time terms.

The only problem I did not solve on my last week 30 min race is : when turn in short sweeper after straight, I have to hold 1/2 throttle, because the sweeper is very narrow(3 -3.5Mtr). Turn in were very nice, in the middle part of corner when I put more throttle the car going outside(understeered a bit) so I have to correct the steering wheel. But in the second I turn the wheel(small amount), the car tends to spin (oversteer). So I have to stay 1/2 throttle in that part, cost me about .25-.05 sec. per lap.

But I did not have that problem before.. still same track/condition when using front 1 way.
Have you ever had that exerience Mr. D ?
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:17 PM   #3945
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Default Re: Re: Solid Front Axle Revisited...

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Actually i made my own SS FR solid axle and the car handling was awesome!
I think a friend of mine also machined a SS316 solid axle but it was very heavy !!

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
The only problem I did not solve on my last week 30 min race is : when turn in short sweeper after straight, I have to hold 1/2 throttle, because the sweeper is very narrow(3 -3.5Mtr). Turn in were very nice, in the middle part of corner when I put more throttle the car going outside(understeered a bit) so I have to correct the steering wheel. But in the second I turn the wheel(small amount), the car tends to spin (oversteer). So I have to stay 1/2 throttle in that part, cost me about .25-.05 sec. per lap.
This is what I experienced ! The steering was not as consistant as it would have been on the front one way. I do not have to correct the steering when taking a sweeper with the one way. With the front solid, I found that at times, steering was nice and at other times, the car understeered. I think the front solid axle scrubs some speed away in the mid corner causing it to understeer.

What rear droop were you using? I was using 5 or 6 with 37 shore front and 40 shore rear. I think a little more droop in the rear should solve the inconsistencies.
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