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Old 10-27-2003, 12:34 AM   #3856
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What brand? GPM? How do they sell it and how much?
Not GPM and not speed mind either. 8 pieces around USD 4 -5 . Not sure about the brand (hmmm...rexon...revon ) Anyway still got the tag at home.
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:38 PM   #3857
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Inital D, I'm making a set for my car first and checking it out. I might have to crash my car a few times at full speed to see if it works hahaa. But these are the things I'm planning to make:

-Titanium Nitride Shock Shafts (since I broke mine)
-Middle shaft, 2 speed shaft
-Dog bones
and maybe some here and their stuff.

They should be done in a few weeks or so. I'll post them here when their done, and maybe I can start a group buy or something like that, if all works out

chris

p.s. any other suggestions?
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Old 10-27-2003, 04:51 PM   #3858
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yea you can make different rear upright spacers from like 1mm to 6mm and maybe halfs steps 1-11/2-2-21/2 and so on
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Old 10-27-2003, 07:45 PM   #3859
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
yea you can make different rear upright spacers from like 1mm to 6mm and maybe halfs steps 1-11/2-2-21/2 and so on
In titanium? That would be overkill for the upright spacers. Normal aluminum will do fine.
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Old 10-27-2003, 08:10 PM   #3860
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Quote:
Originally posted by 993power
p.s. any other suggestions?
Chris, a titanium chassis perhaps?
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Old 10-27-2003, 10:26 PM   #3861
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Default titanium

when u are making the dogbones, can you make them 2 mm longer?
oh how about titnaium pins for the arms..,
engine mount?
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:51 PM   #3862
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hey guys, okay so....so far I have this list:

These aprts will be made in titanium

Shock shafts
hinge pins
Pivot balls
lower CG engine mount, maybe 2mm lower ?
DOG BONES (2mm longer)
Drive train shafts
Chassis??? hehe


As you well know, making Titanium part sis NOT CHEAP at all. Last time I got a figure of doing hine pins for my 1/8th scale buddy at $12.00 each hinge pin. That should give you a estimation. I'll keep looking into it. Feel free to keep suggesting

chris
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Old 10-28-2003, 12:03 AM   #3863
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Quote:
Originally posted by 993power
lower CG engine mount, maybe 2mm lower ?
Be careful with making lower engine mounts... You wouldn't want the engine flywheel to scrap the track. Unless you make an additional 31 mm diameter titanium flywheel and use that with the 13 mm lowered engine mounts !

I think you can live with a 3 mm titanium chassis. A 4 mm one will be overkill. Make sure you mill and chamfer them all around to aid in the heat transfer.
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Old 10-28-2003, 02:44 AM   #3864
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Titanium parts may be a lot lighter, they have some drawbacks too. Especially hinge pins and pivot balls will wear quickly against the glass filled nylon parts.

They will cause binding in aeras you don't want binding.

Furthermore it is very possible to get the 705 to below the minimum weight (1715 grams here in europe) without using drastic parts.

I used:
- Serpent light wheelaxles front and rear
- Serpent Light middle shaft (you can actually cut a few mm off at the outside pulley)
- Serpent light pully adapters (you could do this mod yourself)
- I used M4 alu screws in the chassis and radiotray where applicable. See http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=5820
- Use the shortest M3 screws where you can. At some places the kit uses M3x8mm where M3x6 would do the job. It saves a few grams here and there.
- I drilled out the bodyposts with a 3mm drill.
- I use a body with simple paint scheme (this can save up to 20 grams if you are used to using a lot of colours)

My car at the Euro's needed 40 grams of extra weight to be legal. I did run without sway bars at that track though....

Julius
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Old 10-28-2003, 02:00 PM   #3865
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Julius glad to see ya make it to our post! Ok now the real deal Hint or Tease us on the assumption that Serpent is releasing a new 200mm TC.And what we might be looking at in changes in the car.
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Old 10-28-2003, 02:29 PM   #3866
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Ok,how much did you guys have to pay to get Julius in here?


Although i retired my snake ages ago,i always had good help from you on mytsn and the grid,it's nice to see you have found your way to this board.
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Old 10-28-2003, 11:00 PM   #3867
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Default camber and even wear

guys, after running the tires for a while, they become "cone" shape.
Is this normal?
I understand this is caused my the camber set.
Is it possible to have camber but also maintain even tire wear? i.e inside and outside of a tire wears evenly.
When I put in a new set of tires without truring, only the inside of the tires have contact to the ground, is this ok?
And if I am to true my tires, do I true them to a cone shape?

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2003, 01:31 AM   #3868
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Coning of the tires is normal. The amount of coning depends mostly on camber settings (of course).

In my opinion, most of the time it isn't needed to pre-cone the tires while truing. They will wear that way on the track. Only on tracks where wear is very low you might need it.

In that respect it is noteworthy that most of the time the cone on the tires will be less than the camber setting of the car. Meaning if you set -3 degrees of camber, normally the tire will only cone about 1,5-2 degrees.
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Old 10-29-2003, 01:46 AM   #3869
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About the hint......

Some of the rumors I've read in posts this month are correct....

If a new car comes out it will have
4 wheels
2 speed
shaft/belt drive
bodymounts
roll centers

and maybe more
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:33 AM   #3870
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
About the hint......

Some of the rumors I've read in posts this month are correct....

If a new car comes out it will have
4 wheels
2 speed
shaft/belt drive
bodymounts
roll centers

and maybe more
lol... c'mon, tell us something we duno
eg. can 705 be upgrade to the new car w/o changing much things? r most parts interchangable? when's the release date (nov/dec?)?
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