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Old 10-23-2003, 01:24 AM   #3826
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Default Re: Belt tensioner graphite bracket

Quote:
Originally posted by MorShah
Never try to test without the bracket. Any advantage ? Interms of cornering ? or chasis rolling ...
I have not tried it but I would predict more chassis roll and flex with the stock 3 mm chassis. By looking at it, I would not recommend not using the side stiffeners with the stock 3 mm chassis because the belt tensioner / stiffener is very near the engine area. This is where flexing occurs most. I predict problems like the gears stripping if you take off the side carbon stiffeners besides giving you more rear grip.

In any case, I've seen on mytsn that Serpent drivers do away with the side stiffener on both sides but retain the belt tensioner part by cutting it into half and throw away the portion that connects to the rear bulkhead when they use the optional 4 mm chassis. The reason for that is because the 4 mm chassis is very stiff. On a non grippy and tight track, you want to the car's chassis to roll a little bit more.
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Old 10-23-2003, 01:38 AM   #3827
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Default mytsn setups

Can someone tell me of a good VERY SMALL TRACK setup on mytsn? And then another LARGE TRACK setup?

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2003, 02:06 AM   #3828
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Default Re: mytsn setups

That's a very generic question. Try the setup posted by Serpent Team driver Julius Kolff. That is a big track setup for sure. For small tracks, I suggest you fine tune from there as each track is different. Perhaps, you could follow the setup from the guys that run the 705 there and make changes to suite your driving style and liking.

From what I find, the setup between small and big tracks do not change too much. For me, my cambers, toe in / out remain unchanged. At the track, I only play around with droop settings, sway bars, caster angles in front and most importantly tires. For the shocks, using red springs and shocks mounted to the bearing blocks is pretty generic and suited for most types of tracks.

The rule of thumb that I always follow is this;

Large tracks - stiffer sway bars, large caster angles, less droop.

Small tracks - softer sway bars, smaller caster angles, ,more droop.
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Old 10-23-2003, 02:36 AM   #3829
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Default Middle X Bracket cut into 2 ...lightweight!

Initial x bracket after cut only left is left/right parts
|X| -> | |

Is it safe ? I assume it will be coz on the upper mounted with upperdeck and side mounted with side brackets.

Thought of making the car as light as possible. Now surrounded with titanium screws ! $$$$$ ....arrgghhhhh.

Need advice ....

TQ
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Old 10-23-2003, 03:15 AM   #3830
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Default Re: Middle X Bracket cut into 2 ...lightweight!

Quote:
Originally posted by MorShah
Initial x bracket after cut only left is left/right parts
|X| -> | |

Is it safe ? I assume it will be coz on the upper mounted with upperdeck and side mounted with side brackets.
I personally would not know if it's safe. What I can tell you is that I know that at one time, we did used the radio tray support for Impact (8107A) on our Impulse PRO which was the same as your idea of cutting it apart and leaving just left and right sides. It's definitely lighter.

Quote:
Originally posted by MorShah
Thought of making the car as light as possible. Now surrounded with titanium screws ! $$$$$ ....arrgghhhhh.
Titanium screws? Where are you getting it?
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Old 10-23-2003, 06:30 AM   #3831
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Default Re: Re: Middle X Bracket cut into 2 ...lightweight!

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Titanium screws? Where are you getting it?
Try http://www.speedmind.net/Ti-Screws.htm

i found some interesting things not shown on their site
Speedmind Ceramic Ball Bearings
http://precisionrc.com/cgi-bin/cart.pl?BR=SMD&DT=26
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Old 10-23-2003, 09:17 AM   #3832
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Default Re: Middle X Bracket cut into 2 ...lightweight!

Quote:
Originally posted by MorShah
Initial x bracket after cut only left is left/right parts
|X| -> | |

Is it safe ? I assume it will be coz on the upper mounted with upperdeck and side mounted with side brackets.

Thought of making the car as light as possible. Now surrounded with titanium screws ! $$$$$ ....arrgghhhhh.

Need advice ....

TQ
My opinion: It's not worth it to cut the x-brace. I used to have an alluminum X-brace on my impulse, and I tried the same thing; it hardly lightened it at all, it was not convienient, and it didn't look good.
If you actually compare weight between the alluminum piece to a plastic piece, you realize that the alluminum is not that much heavier. You'll also notice that the area you would be cutting is very thin and probably does not weigh very much anyway.Plus, the stock piece looks very cool .
There are not many ways to lighten the 705. You could get the hollow shafts, for one. Other things that are much lighter are the spring steel components for the drivetrain. I put the old spring-steel impulse diff on my 705 simply because it felt like half the weight. One downside to having such a durable car like the 705 (knock on wood) is having a heavier type of plastic.
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Old 10-23-2003, 09:23 AM   #3833
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
Thanks I.D. That's how I ended up doing, putting fuel tubing in the drive cups to push the dogbone in some.

Yep, did some of those already. Might try some mix and match on the track.

I'll surely be active posting here now.
I space my dogbones with metal nuts and washers. On the track where I used to race before I moved. The walls were somewhat sharply angled, so if (when) I hit them, it would knock the wheel, making it turn, throwing the dogbone out of the wheelaxle. When I put fuel tubing in the diff/oneway outdrives, the tubing would still compress and allow the dogbone to come out. I have started putting one AE mini plain nut and one washer in the outdrive since then, and I have not had a problem since (knock on wood...again ).
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Old 10-23-2003, 09:57 AM   #3834
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Hi, I just got my 705 and I love it. Thanks for also the setups in this page it has really helped me out.

One Questions..i know it might be stupid but what is the FC steering block and does anyone have a part number for them? Thanks!

chris
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Old 10-23-2003, 10:41 AM   #3835
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801212
Steeringblock left FC

801213
Steeringblock right FC


Hope these are what you need....
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:45 PM   #3836
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I have started putting one AE mini plain nut and one washer in the outdrive since then, and I have not had a problem since (knock on wood...again ).
Arun, do you have a pic on how you do this?
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:48 PM   #3837
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Default

u oso need new bearings for those blocks, the stock pivotballs are slightly longer. either u shorten them or get the shorter pivotballs

below link shows a complete set
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2771
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:50 PM   #3838
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by 993power
One Questions..i know it might be stupid but what is the FC steering block and does anyone have a part number for them?
Chris, FC stands for fluid cornering. It gives better cornering to the car than the stock ones due to the steering knuckles being more offset. With the lighter weight of the shortened aluminum pivot balls that is supposedly to be installed with the FC steering blocks plus the use of smaller bearings, the polar moment of the car is reduced and therefore makes the car transition left to right faster.
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:53 PM   #3839
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Quote:
Originally posted by ksrcracing
801212
Steeringblock left FC

801213
Steeringblock right FC
Yup. As taz5176 mentioned, these are not just all. You need 2 of the 10 x 15 x 4 bearings on each steering blocks instead of the stock 10 x 19 x 5.

You also need the optional shortened aluminum pivot balls to complete the set. You can get all this complete as part number 801222.
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Old 10-23-2003, 04:13 PM   #3840
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Arun, do you have a pic on how you do this?
Sorry, no pic, (I'll be getting a digital camera soon, i think) but its pretty simple.

outdrive-->mini ae nut-->washer-->dogbone.

It works pretty well. I've been doing it this way for a couple of years. In fact, I was about ready to get rid of the car because there was not an option for front universals and I was having so many dogbone troubles. But now, after spacing them this way, I wish all the cars out there had only dogbones and no universals. Dogbones are so durable and stress free compared to the cvd's on my tc3 (Don't worry, its an electric tc3), and I can't go a race day without seeing someone shatter a universal on an MTX-3.

Viva la dogbones!
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