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Old 10-15-2003, 01:30 AM   #3796
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As always InitialD = the man, THX

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I don't know if I discovered this by mistake but the rear shocks I have recently made with the red shock bladder and foam insert, rebounds out very quickly when compressed.
Have had the same problem since i installed them in al my shocks. I stopped trying to get my shocks setup as the old ones.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think this one is mentioned before. You need to machine the stock 1.5 mm sway bars to make it thinner. This need to be done carefully to make the sway bar thin the same all around.
I'm going to stick with the 2 front anti-roll bar blades (male) wich are thinner.

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Originally posted by InitialD
At the moment, you've got about 4 to 6 months before the "new" Serpent tourer is expected to come out.
The talk at the track here is getting harder as there is more talk about the new prototype the team is driving (in secrect ):
New design (no more evolved Impact), much like 950R and easy to build and setup right out of the box (like Mugen)

What is revolutionary about the new car? not yet known, so we have to wait and see.
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Old 10-15-2003, 02:34 AM   #3797
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Have had the same problem since i installed them in al my shocks. I stopped trying to get my shocks setup as the old ones.
Nowadays, all newer car shocks are set with rebound in them. Perhaps using this tool to ensure accurate shock rebound would be useful.



Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
I'm going to stick with the 2 front anti-roll bar blades (male) wich are thinner.
I always wanted to ask... Are these two front male antiroll bar blades at their softest setting (flat 0 degree) softer than the stock 1.5 mm ones?

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
The talk at the track here is getting harder as there is more talk about the new prototype the team is driving (in secrect ): New design (no more evolved Impact), much like 950R and easy to build and setup right out of the box (like Mugen)
Ummm, I thought you guys have more chances of taking a peek at the prototype they are driving. Isn't the team testing track at Heemstede?

It's quite surprising that word has it Serpent is coming out with a totally new car. Not like the Performance through Evolution Serpent always advertise...
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Old 10-15-2003, 03:55 AM   #3798
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I always wanted to ask... Are these two front male antiroll bar blades at their softest setting (flat 0 degree) softer than the stock 1.5 mm ones?
Yes, they are softer.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I thought you guys have more chances of taking a peek at the prototype they are driving. Isn't the team testing track at Heemstede?
When they are testing new (secrect) cars, they have the track for themselfs. And no spies are allowed! Even factory workers/drivers don't say much about the new car (only little things).

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
It's quite surprising that word has it Serpent is coming out with a totally new car. Not like the Performance through Evolution Serpent always advertise...
The 705 is the last of the smaller Impact series and is way too heavy. Julius Kolff said (some months ago) that this is the maximum they can get out of this concept.
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Old 10-15-2003, 04:14 AM   #3799
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Yes, they are softer.
Thanks for info. I was thinking to myself why the stock 1.5 mm sway bars modified on my Impulse PRO felt harder than my 705 with the 2 male anti roll bar blades at 0 degree with the same shock springs, shock oil and setting...

Right now, I'm liking the 45 degree angle using these male front antiroll bar blades in the rear.

By any chance you know where the 45 degree or 90 degree sway bar setting is in stifness relation to the 1.5 mm, 2.0 mm and the 3.0 mm fixed type sway bars?

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
When they are testing new (secrect) cars, they have the track for themselfs. And no spies are allowed! Even factory workers/drivers don't say much about the new car (only little things).
Perhaps it's time someone flew a glider plane above the track when these guys are testing the new car to take spy pics.

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
The 705 is the last of the smaller Impact series and is way too heavy. Julius Kolff said (some months ago) that this is the maximum they can get out of this concept.
The maximum is already making a huge impact on the rest of the cars... I wonder what will be in store when the new Serpent tourer comes out.
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Old 10-15-2003, 04:25 AM   #3800
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Perhaps it's time someone flew a glider plane above the track when these guys are testing the new car to take spy pics.
Maybe we can attach my D1 to a plane
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Old 10-15-2003, 08:12 PM   #3801
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Originally posted by markp27
Maybe we can attach my D1 to a plane
You need a 2 seater prop plane to be able to pick the D1 up.
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Old 10-15-2003, 09:56 PM   #3802
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Been travelling and off-line for a week, the discussion about a new Serpent tourer really seems to have heated up alot ! Cool. Please, please, please realease something soon. I want, no NEED a new car in time for the winternats... I was thinking of just a new 705 kit, but no I am not so sure anymore....
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Old 10-16-2003, 06:38 AM   #3803
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Quote:
Julius Kolff said (some months ago) that this is the maximum they can get out of this concept.
Well, cant agree with that. Look at what kyosho has done to the v-one-r platform...


Quote:
Not like the Performance through Evolution Serpent always advertise...
Well D as i said... "Its Performance through Revolution now"... or something. The PR-department will have to work overtime to justify this...

In any case. Its good that a new car is comming. But i really think they should have announced it by now. 705 sales must be hurting as hell with all this speculation. People will turn to other makes casue of this instead of waiting for the 710.
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Old 10-18-2003, 08:53 PM   #3804
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
[B]Nowadays, all newer car shocks are set with rebound in them. Perhaps using this tool to ensure accurate shock rebound would be useful.



Belive it guys,, this tool is very usefull,, since I been using this tool ,, I don't even need to tweak the chassis!!
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Old 10-18-2003, 09:02 PM   #3805
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Talking

Hi ,, Master D, hehehe!! ,,

I read at MYTSN forums that your car is really hook up to the track,, so wich mod you think is the responsible for that performance now in the track, front roll center mod, the rear camber link mod, the chassis, etc.. ????

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 10-19-2003, 07:52 AM   #3806
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I agree with paul that tool is a must in your tool box!I have hardly any tweak in my car what so ever and I can honestly say that when I put my shocks on it for the first time I was amazed at how different they really were considering they felt the same to me when I tested by the hand method.Took me 2hrs to do the front shocks right but I know that they are right everytime I redo them I put them on the losi tool just in case but like I said they are almost perfect.
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:00 AM   #3807
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What's the procedure for using the tool and how do you adjust the shocks?

Back to the track today. My solid oneway diff is working well - too well I've had to back off the breaking power somewhat with my ATV on the transmitter. I was up to 75%, but then the car slowed down so quickly, that I had brought the car to a stand still before I had time to get back onto the throttle.
The Impact dogbones didn't really work too well, so I changed the steering blocks back to the WOS last night and today at the track, the car was really flying!!!
I was experiencing a bit much power oversteer out of the corners, but a quick adjustment to the FPS Diff sorted most of that out - still have to be a little carefuly, but I can really power out of the corners now.

With tempratures down to -3 in the morning now, I really had to do some may tuning to the engine for it to run right. I spent a good couple of hours trying to get everything working on the saturday, which gave me more time to drive on sunday (today).
After my bodywork started to scrape on the ground, I knew it was time to put a fresh set of tyres on they were simply too small for the ride height
I did a couple of careful laps with the new tyres, just to make sure everything was ok. When I came out after checking everything was still ok, I seem to have lost concentration and ran straight into the wall on the big fast left hander, which leads onto the main straight. The right front wheel broke and the right hand side steering block, too - the one which I had put on last night

A simple lack of concentration and it was all over Fortunately I have a spare steering block, but it also means probably painting up another body, as the rear of the car also hit the wall quite hard and has broken the bodywork around the wing mounting area Is there anyway I can reinforce this area with something? I've tried super-gluing lexan underneath the bodywork, but the glue is too brittle - I need a more flexible substance.

The day was still good, as my driving is really starting to improve now

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:37 AM   #3808
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The best way to fix your lexan is to use shoo-goo and drywall netting,you can get the netting in rolls or a square patch.It works wonders.We used to use this method when I raced oval back in the day.The losi tool is awesome,the only thing you have to do is use metric screws/bolts so they thread into the serpent one shock end.The use of spacers on the screws to even the shock on the tool.The instructions are simple and they put them on the back of the package but once you use it once its simple.Yea I had a couple mishaps myself yesterday and the fc blocks popped off a few times resulting in the dogbone and outdrive to rocketship from the car.I'm glad I found the pieces.It was my fault 2 times and than I got hit the third time during warmup for the A main and didnt know it until I came off a fast sweeper into a slow right boy was it different driving the main on 3 wheel drive.But I found the parts thats all that matters.
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Old 10-19-2003, 02:19 PM   #3809
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Default spare parts

well guys it was my first time on the track yesterday, I was surprised as to how easy it was to start the engine! Considering how much pain I had trying to break in engine a few weeks ago.
Anyway, 3 minutes after runing the car, I was simply tooooo excited about the speed off the long straight, and was concentrating too much admiring my body paint job.. and bamb.. a few front flips, and it went right into the side wall.. what I found out was a busted FC bearing and a BROKEN dogbone..... I heard its rare to break a dog bone! hehhehe
Well I had no spare dog bone.. so that was the end of the day... 3 minutes!!!
Anyway, what do you guys find to be the weakest part of the car? What is the easiest to break in a major crash? i.e I am going to LHS later and pick up spare parts.. what should I get?
Thanks guys.
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Old 10-19-2003, 09:09 PM   #3810
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Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
what I found out was a busted FC bearing and a BROKEN dogbone..... I heard its rare to break a dog bone! hehhehe
Well I had no spare dog bone.. so that was the end of the day... 3 minutes!!!
Sorry to hear your problems. Shit happens...

It's actually not rare to break a dogbone. The stock steel ones are a little brittle in my opinion. Get the Hudy spring steel pro dogbones if you break and need to replace the stock ones. They are a little more expensive but they are worth it. I still have mine on my Impulse PRO since almost 2 years already. Part number is 801221 for the front. I also found that the wheel axles tend to break easy also. I usually break them by just tightening the wheel nut. If you break them, get the pro Hudy spring steel ones.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Anyway, what do you guys find to be the weakest part of the car? What is the easiest to break in a major crash? i.e I am going to LHS later and pick up spare parts.. what should I get?
Thanks guys.
The weakest part? Steering blocks / knuckles are a must if they can be considered "weak". Secondly, front upper and lower arms. Perhaps the rear lower arms too (upper rear arms rarely breaks). Get pivot pins too especially the rear lower ones. In my driving experience, I have only bend the rear lower ones. In any case if you slam the wall hard enough, something has got to break.

Go easy on the throttle. Everytime when I visit a new track, I go easy on the throttle around the track. Perhaps for a one full I drive on the track slowly to familiarise braking and turning points. I use that time also to warm up the engine.
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