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Old 10-07-2003, 10:11 PM   #3751
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Some one in the Forums at MYTSN, said


Quote:
well it may be gossip but here goes
the reason the car didnt go to the toy fair was
because of the need to keep the copiers at bay,
they were afraid that if they unvaled the car the opposition would copy it.
this has happend before,well you just have to look at some of other companys car to know that.
as for the release date,well i to herd the car was out in oct but this has been put back to november.
i for one cant wait
Well guys it's just a rumor OK, nothing is confirmed yet, so let's rest in our snake pits until the day of the revelation!!


Ciao!!
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Old 10-08-2003, 12:38 AM   #3752
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Default Upgrades,Motivation, Cheating, Etc....

I find it most amusing that as Serpent driver for the las t 2 years the same questions get asked of the big guns ?

Actually for any Factory Driver ????

What engine should I use ???
What gearing should I use ??
What weight should I be at ??
What overdrive should I use ??
What body should I use ??
What Tire shore should I use ??


Those are just some of the basic questions a Serpent Driver should ask, and thats ok , HOWEVER, if you do some research , and explore the posts here and of course MYTSN.com then you will find out all you need to know.

Bottom line is, The Serpent is not a short track racer , nor should it ever be, also, an engine is the key to any major victory which no normal mortal is going to get ahold of.

Example: The Main engines were stolen from the Serpent Station at the worlds in Cincy, , and that means that special engines were tuned and set up for the race conditions which means no mortal was goiing to compete in the first place at the Sedan Nat's in Cincy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Additionally: Setups have of course yet to be posted, and the next logical step in a novice racers mind is to get just what the factory drivers have !!!!

So if you want the latest equipment, you need, pro axels, pro shafts, new rear diff, pro everything etc... $180 + . Engine tuned and paid for by a Pro, ,Priceless !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Whether its a new HPI, MUGEN, SERPENT , YOKOKMO , Etc... It doesnt matter.
Have alot of dollars and experience in your pocket or your done!!!
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Old 10-08-2003, 07:07 AM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You mean TP06 Outlaw = 52607 and TP06 EFRA = 52606? Are you sure they are the same?

I'm not 100% sure since I have not received the expected novarossi package yet. Should be by friday the latest.

You think they are different?
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:00 AM   #3754
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Default Solid Front Axle Mod from One Way

Here are some pics of the mod that I made. Have not tested it yet but my guess is that it should hold up.

As the stock Serpent solid front axle (801240) is not as reliable with the pro drive cup adapters (801393), the modified one way to solid axle is more reliable. The best part about this mod is that you can switch from one way front diff to a solid front axle and vice versa very easily.

The only downside is that it's slightly heavier but I will not mind trading a little bit of weight for more reliability.

p/s: Mark, where is your "one way" package?
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File Type: jpg oneway_solid_axle.jpg (99.6 KB, 113 views)

Last edited by InitialD; 10-10-2003 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:02 AM   #3755
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For each one way drive shaft, two holes are drilled and tapped for M4 grub screws. The holes will clear the one way bearing as the size of the one way bearing is 12 mm (6 x 10 x 12) and the holes are drilled at 15 mm from the sides of the aluminum shaft and will be situated exactly at the end tip of the one way drive shaft.

These two holes for each one way drive shaft will be 90 degree right angles apart from each other to provide better support. To aid the grub screws to secure better onto the one way drive shafts, flat spots are filed at 90 degree right angles apart.

The left side of the shaft will have two M4 grub screws under the 24T pulley. So with the complete assembly, these two grub screws are hidden as they are beneath the 24T pulley.
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:04 AM   #3756
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3.2 mm drill bit
Hand tap holder
M4 Hand tap
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Old 10-10-2003, 05:40 PM   #3757
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Ohh my God!!,, you see, you're always doing that little helpfull things Thanks Master D. ,, the other day I was doing the Epoxy mod to my solid diff.. and now you came with this,, Beleive me, I trust more in that mod, than the Epoxy solid diff.... I'm pretty sure that invention is going to work!! Congratulations MR. D!!

Ciao!!
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Old 10-10-2003, 05:53 PM   #3758
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Epoxy as in jamming the entire unit? Woow, that must be desparate attempt ! Anyway, thanks for the compliments.
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Old 10-10-2003, 10:10 PM   #3759
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I thought about doing that solid/oneway conversion before, but I decided not to because I always seem to mess those kinds of things up.
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:52 PM   #3760
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Thumbs up Solid Front Axle Mod from One Way (from "D")

Again.. very bright idea you have!!

If I may suggest, it would be better if you drill through the drive shaft (one-way joint cup). Then snap some pin -same material with dog bones end ones-, covered with pulley .. and the pin is going nowhere. Hole in shaft should be 0.1-0.2m bigger than the pin but in the 1way axle should be tight enough to hold the pin.

This way, you will create some space for drive shaft to move a bit, so you do not worry about the speed balancing when it turns.
Vibrate!! yes... but still in constan value.

More simple if you do with grub screw just like you described it but when tightening the screw, you will need an extra feeling ( maybe 6th or 7th sense) to make sure the shaft in center position.

Anyway, thank you for your last posted setup, working very well for me.
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Old 10-11-2003, 01:45 AM   #3761
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Look forward to reading your testing report for the one-way Mr D!
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:54 AM   #3762
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I thought about doing that solid/oneway conversion before, but I decided not to because I always seem to mess those kinds of things up.
Ummm, in your last pictures of the mod of the rear bulkheads to make easy changing and accessing of the rear ball diff, that doesn't look like you bungled up things... Looks very neat !
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Old 10-11-2003, 08:09 AM   #3763
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Default Re: Solid Front Axle Mod from One Way (from "D")

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
If I may suggest, it would be better if you drill through the drive shaft (one-way joint cup). Then snap some pin -same material with dog bones end ones-, covered with pulley .. and the pin is going nowhere. Hole in shaft should be 0.1-0.2m bigger than the pin but in the 1way axle should be tight enough to hold the pin.
That is a good idea too. I've actually toyed about that idea plus some others but I think the one I mentioned was the simplest to execute.

I would think it would be VERY difficult to drill onto the hardened one way drive cup shaft. The circular surface makes it even more impossible. I tried to drill a 3 mm hole onto a 2 speed main shaft before and I'll tell you that without high end equipment, it's nearly impossible to execute. You need an EDM machine to be able to drill a hole nicely onto the surface of the drive shaft.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
More simple if you do with grub screw just like you described it but when tightening the screw, you will need an extra feeling ( maybe 6th or 7th sense) to make sure the shaft in center position.
No 6th or 7th sense feeling required... The shaft centers fine because most of the shaft length is still supported in the one way bearing. Only the tip end of the drive shafts are suspended and this is where the grub screws secure and lock the drive shafts.

Of course, what I do is I do not lock in tight on each of the grub screw. Tighten one by one slowly so that equal pressures are given. And yes, don't forget the locktite...

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Anyway, thank you for your last posted setup, working very well for me.
Really? Glad to have helped you... I didn't think it would work good for anybody. Well, mostly because nobody tried to emulate it before. I like your feedbacks on the setup I posted. What did you find lacking that was addressed in my setup? Any thing that you find missing?

I personally found that on smaller tighter turns, I would put smaller caster angle to give more off power initial turn in. I changed from 1 mm at the rear of the upper front arm to 2 mm and it made hell of a difference in the main. I was in a way unlucky to have found this out only later before the start of the main. I guess I would have qualified better if I had changed it earlier in the heats.
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:52 AM   #3764
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Default Re: Re: Solid Front Axle Mod from One Way (from "D")

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That is a good idea too. I've actually toyed about that idea plus some others but I think the one I mentioned was the simplest to execute.

I would think it would be VERY difficult to drill onto the hardened one way drive cup shaft. The circular surface makes it even more impossible. I tried to drill a 3 mm hole onto a 2 speed main shaft before and I'll tell you that without high end equipment, it's nearly impossible to execute. You need an EDM machine to be able to drill a hole nicely onto the surface of the drive shaft.



No 6th or 7th sense feeling required... The shaft centers fine because most of the shaft length is still supported in the one way bearing. Only the tip end of the drive shafts are suspended and this is where the grub screws secure and lock the drive shafts.

Of course, what I do is I do not lock in tight on each of the grub screw. Tighten one by one slowly so that equal pressures are given. And yes, don't forget the locktite...



Really? Glad to have helped you... I didn't think it would work good for anybody. Well, mostly because nobody tried to emulate it before. I like your feedbacks on the setup I posted. What did you find lacking that was addressed in my setup? Any thing that you find missing?

I personally found that on smaller tighter turns, I would put smaller caster angle to give more off power initial turn in. I changed from 1 mm at the rear of the upper front arm to 2 mm and it made hell of a difference in the main. I was in a way unlucky to have found this out only later before the start of the main. I guess I would have qualified better if I had changed it earlier in the heats.
ah hmmz.. tot somebody did that in the MTX-3 thread way before you 'started' thinking of doing it or you just 'thought' of it?
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:54 PM   #3765
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Default Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle Mod from One Way (from "D")

Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
ah hmmz.. tot somebody did that in the MTX-3 thread way before you 'started' thinking of doing it or you just 'thought' of it?
Dose it matter!?!?!



D,
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