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Old 09-27-2003, 01:19 PM   #3706
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Hey, Mark,,

Did you solve your problem with your Front solid Axle,,???,, If your answer is yes, what did you do to solve this problem,,

I swicth from one way to Solid Axle, and to keep the dogbones in place, I use a little piece of Pen's spring, I cut about 3 turns for each side of the dogbone,

Well only another way to solve this problem guys!

Ciao!!
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Old 09-27-2003, 01:41 PM   #3707
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Hey, Mark,,

Did you solve your problem with your Front solid Axle,,???,, If your answer is yes, what did you do to solve this problem,,

I swicth from one way to Solid Axle, and to keep the dogbones in place, I use a little piece of Pen's spring, I cut about 3 turns for each side of the dogbone,

Well only another way to solve this problem guys!

Ciao!!
Hi Paul,

I solved the problem in a way - but it is not a real solution. I used the dogbones from an Impact, which are longer than the 705's. But, I found that the Impact dogbones are just a little too long which means I have a 202mm front width

I seem to still have quite a lot of steering - InitialD suggests that this may be because I'm using a 1/8th servo saver.

The breaking is really amazing now! and I'm quite happy with the handling of the car - I get some amazing tail slides if I'm not too careful in applying the throttle

I like the sound of your mod with the pen spring - I'll try this too

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 09-27-2003, 05:50 PM   #3708
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Originally posted by markp27
Do you mean the one-way parcel?


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Originally posted by markp27
Just got a couple of Protoform Stratus 2.1 bodyshells - be painting them up in the next couple of weeks. They look good!!
A couple !!?? Are you trying to hoard thosse shells so that there is less of them going around the world?

A suggestion... If you want more steering, you should try the Alfa 2.1 body. I have not tried it yet but it looks very good. Part number is 1461-00.

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Old 09-27-2003, 06:15 PM   #3709
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Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Just one little question, but first of all,, Thanks for all the reports from your latest R/D department, they are very helpfull around here!! , and congratulation in your last flawless run with your 705 , is good to hear some good news in here, besides the other part of the world ,,
R&D department? Ummm, I like to tinker and experiment with stuff. I like to test out new things and experiment with the car. Glad to be of service.

Yesterday, I tried to play around with my "old dog" the Impulse PRO. Was very satisfied with it. Almost as good as the 705 on the track ! Was a little dissapointed as the heavens opened and it rained. Only got to get 2 to 3 tanks worth of track time. I'll try and put both on the track today and see what happens...

Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Well my little question is ,, when you refer in your report to the stratus 2.1 shell that performs great, did you do the 5th post mod, ?? or without it??,,
When I use touring car shells, I will use the 5th body post. Pretty easy to do. Get an extra body post and drill a hole on the upper bumper plate support in the area near the carbon graphite upper deck and the front shocks. Use a self tapping screw so that you can mount the post from the bottom / underneath the upper bumper plate support. Mind the position of the hole / body post and the screw underneath as it is very close to the front belting and the pulley.
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File Type: jpg 5th_post.jpg (118.0 KB, 104 views)
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Old 09-27-2003, 06:47 PM   #3710
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD




A couple !!?? Are you trying to hoard thosse shells so that there is less of them going around the world?

A suggestion... If you want more steering, you should try the Alfa 2.1 body. I have not tried it yet but it looks very good. Part number is 1461-00.

What seem`s to hapen with the Losi body is it has very good stabillity on the straight, when you are in the apex of the corner the body will unload and become unstable. Just my 2/cents worth.
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Old 09-27-2003, 11:02 PM   #3711
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Where are you getting the 705 conversion kit for $140?

www.serpent-usa.com
http://www.serpent-usa.com/specials/...sersale_1.html

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Old 09-27-2003, 11:44 PM   #3712
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Default Adjustment...

Ok guys, I had my first outing yesterday, man was it frustrating!
First of all , while trying to start, I noticed the fly wheel kept locking! So I took out the engine, and had to use a rag to turn the flywheel, and even that was EXTREMELY hard, had to use after run to lube it a bit!!!! Guys at the track said they haven't seen an engine this tight for a LONG time, but also said thats a sign for a very good engine, is that right?? After the car engine started running, i had to use idle up to keep it going, I also had to keep the igniter attached to the glow plug because the engine wasn't hot enough... (45C)
Now I have tons of questions relating to my break in process, hope you guys can help. Most of all, I would like to know if I need to adjust the carb, throttle servo linkage or transmitter setting.
1, After about 2 tanks of idle, I started leaning out the high speed 1/4, and continued doing that each tank at 1/4. After about 1.5 turns in, I was able to detach the igniter, the temp was around 60C with continues throttle blipping. At the end of the break in, I leaned it out a total of about 2 turns, which means I've don around 8-10 tanks. After around 6 tanks or so, I started running it very slow on the track, but I noticed that the car wouldn't move until I got about 65% throttle, then white smoke comes out, and the car goes. Between those 35 % of throttle travel, I noticed the car was very sensitive, which made it very hard to control, where do I need to adjust so that the clutch engages when I slight tough the throttle, say 10%??
2, In order to keep my car from dying, I had to keep my idle up all the time, even on the track, I think my idle rpm is a bit high. To put it in a carb perspective, when idle, I can see about 1.5mm gap through the "sponge hole?" So I used the DT2 (digital trim?) function on my 3PK to get the slide in more, but then I can hear the engine starts bogging and dies.. Where I can adjust this so that the rpm is lower at idle (I think a 1mm gap is better?) Or can the engine actually idles when the slide is all the way in (0.5mm carb opening)? SHould I adjust the carb needles? (Low? Idle?)The servo linkage? Or the transmitter?
3, This is related to question 2, the engine dies when I apply break. This is because at idle there is the "1.5mm" carb opening, and when its anything less, I can hear the drop of rpm and the engine dies. Hene, when I break, the servo actually pushes the slide in to reduce the car opening to 0.5 mm. Hence the engines dies. So in this case, how and where do I adjust so that (a) when it breaks, the servo does not push the slide in, hence the carb opening is still 1.5 mm, or (b) when it breaks, the slide moves in, but there is still enough air for the engine to idle, or (c) when it breaks, the slide does not move in BECAUSE there is only 0.5mm carb opening (no more space to travel. I think option b or c might be related to question 2??
4, When Idle, there is buzz on my throttle servo, meaning there is pressure already, how to I adjust this?
BTW, I used tornado 25% with 2 extra 0.1mm head shims. A T6 plug. Outside temp between 27-30C
THANKS SOOOO MUCH FOR THE HELP!
Let me know if you guys want the carb setting or pics =)
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Old 09-28-2003, 09:14 AM   #3713
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Default Re: Adjustment...

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
First of all , while trying to start, I noticed the fly wheel kept locking! So I took out the engine, and had to use a rag to turn the flywheel, and even that was EXTREMELY hard, had to use after run to lube it a bit!!!! Guys at the track said they haven't seen an engine this tight for a LONG time, but also said thats a sign for a very good engine, is that right??
What engine is this? What we do when the engine is extremely tight is to loosen the glowplug when you crank the flywheel and lube the piston and sleeve with some after run oil. After the engine runs, tighten the glowplug back.

Well, for normal racers like us, a tight engine usually shows a sign of a "good" engine. But for hardcore serious racers, they usually lap the piston and sleeve so that they give just enough friction that gives compression without giving much strain to the conrod. The one that you're experiencing tighteness is because of compression as well a tightness. Therefore for us, we just need to spend more time breaking in the engine. This can be a little strenuous on the conrod so check if they show any signs of wear on the bushing. Some people change the conrod after breaking in the engine.

To check if the engine is broken in properly, the sleeve should show signs of it being polished at the inner side of the sleeve where the piston moves up and down in the sleeve.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
1, After about 2 tanks of idle, I started leaning out the high speed 1/4, and continued doing that each tank at 1/4. After about 1.5 turns in, I was able to detach the igniter, the temp was around 60C with continues throttle blipping. At the end of the break in, I leaned it out a total of about 2 turns, which means I've don around 8-10 tanks. After around 6 tanks or so, I started running it very slow on the track, but I noticed that the car wouldn't move until I got about 65% throttle, then white smoke comes out, and the car goes. Between those 35 % of throttle travel, I noticed the car was very sensitive, which made it very hard to control, where do I need to adjust so that the clutch engages when I slight tough the throttle, say 10%??
Well, there are different methods of breaking in... So I will not discuss and mention this.

Anyway to answer your question, there can be 2 things that may explain as to what and why you're experiencing what you're experiencing... Firstly, your end float may be too large. Does your clutchbell have a lot of play after it's installed? The manual states to set the end float as 0.7 mm. Set it somewhere closer like 0.4 or 0.5 mm. Follow the method on how to set the end float in the manual.

Secondly, the spring that locks onto the Centax clutch spring could be too tight. Loosen the spring by turning the clutch spring nut counter clockwise. You can do this externally. You do not need to open the Centax clutchbell. Put a 1.5 mm allen into the hole in the clutchbell. The clutch spring nut that holds the spring tension has 2 notches on it. The 1.5 mm allen through the Centax clutchbell should catch one of the 2 notches. Once locked down, you can turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE to loosen the spring tension. Loosen till you get the best throttle punch or the best according to your liking.

The manual states to use 9.2 mm measurement to set the tightness of the Centax clutch spring. But Serpent recommends on mytsn to set this Centax spring tension on the track. This is because each engine should be set differently as engine types and settings differ from each other.

In any case, I suggest you set the end float first before setting the clutch spring tension.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
2, In order to keep my car from dying, I had to keep my idle up all the time, even on the track, I think my idle rpm is a bit high. To put it in a carb perspective, when idle, I can see about 1.5mm gap through the "sponge hole?" So I used the DT2 (digital trim?) function on my 3PK to get the slide in more, but then I can hear the engine starts bogging and dies.. Where I can adjust this so that the rpm is lower at idle (I think a 1mm gap is better?) Or can the engine actually idles when the slide is all the way in (0.5mm carb opening)? SHould I adjust the carb needles? (Low? Idle?)The servo linkage? Or the transmitter?
Refer to answer in question 3.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
3, This is related to question 2, the engine dies when I apply break. This is because at idle there is the "1.5mm" carb opening, and when its anything less, I can hear the drop of rpm and the engine dies. Hene, when I break, the servo actually pushes the slide in to reduce the car opening to 0.5 mm. Hence the engines dies. So in this case, how and where do I adjust so that (a) when it breaks, the servo does not push the slide in, hence the carb opening is still 1.5 mm, or (b) when it breaks, the slide moves in, but there is still enough air for the engine to idle, or (c) when it breaks, the slide does not move in BECAUSE there is only 0.5mm carb opening (no more space to travel. I think option b or c might be related to question 2??
Question 2 and question 3 are related. What I do when I set the throttle linkage is as follows;

Set the throttle linkage so that the servo does not buzz. If the servo makes a straining should at idle, then the linkage is not set correct.

Use the throttle trim on the Tx so that the linkage closes the slide carb fully just enough without making any buzzing noise. To open the slide carb opening more, use the idle screw. Turn it clockwise to open the hole bigger. The hole opening at idle shoud not be more than 1 mm. However when breaking in the engine or when setting your carb needles, you may have to temporarily open the carb needle bigger at idle. Close it back to suitable needle opening once all needles are set.

To know what and where your carb needles, you can refer here.

If you're engine is dying at this carb opening setting at idle, then your low speed needle (LSN) is a little rich. Lean it 1/8th of a turn at a time.

If you're getting your needle settings all mixed up, I suggest to reset the carb needle settings to stock and a little on a rich side (I assume Novarossi based engine). I would turn the high speed needle (HSN) 5 full turns out and the LSN 4 turns out. The brass needle at the rear of the carb should always be flushed. I like to set the needles a little on the rich side and this may take longer to set but it's always on a safe side.

Anyway, when you are trying to tune your carb, you must always set the HSN first. All this assuming you have already fully broken in the engine and make sure that the engine is fully warmed up... The engine should reach the high RPM easily and very crisply. The HSN controls this and also controls the entire fuel delivery at all engine RPMs. Lean it 1/8th of a turn at a time and give it some good short revs. If you have a temperature gauge or a temperature gun, use it. Temperature should not be more than 120 degree C while you're setting the needles. Oil should also not spit out literally from the pipe stinger. If it is, then your HSN is still rich. You should see white or blue smoke coming out of the pipe. That's a goiod sign. Once set, you can then proceed to lean the LSN.

The LSN controls the low speed engine RPM and engine idle. If the engine is gurgling and gets very difficult to begin to rev up, then the LSN is still rich. Lean it 1/8th of a turn at a time. Each time after leaning the LSN, give it some good short revs. Watch the temperature is you have a temperature gauge or a temperature gun. When tuning, you should see white or blue smoke coming out of the pipe. If the engine RPM is a little high, make the slide carb opening is smaller so that a lower steady idle RPM is achieved.

When correctly set, the engine should be able to rev up very easily and without any hessitation. After a good short rev, the engine should be able to idle at least for 20 seconds. When you give it another good rev, your engine is able to clean out very easily. If it dies, then lean it a little. Always 1/8th at a time. Throughout the 20 seconds, the engine idle should stay at around the same RPM and not fluctuating up and down.

These needle settings are just to get you in the ball park. Once this is set, take it to the track and run it with a bodyshell. Check the temperature. I find that when the needles are in the ball park setting, you only need to tune and touch the HSN. Not more than plus minus 10 minute needle turnings.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
4, When Idle, there is buzz on my throttle servo, meaning there is pressure already, how to I adjust this?
BTW, I used tornado 25% with 2 extra 0.1mm head shims. A T6 plug. Outside temp between 27-30C.
See answer above for setting the throttle servo end point.

Right now, I'm using the same fuel with the same plug as you in abou the same weather conditions. However I'm using only one an additional 0.1 mm copper shim on top of the stock 0.3 mm aluminum silver shim. So total is 0.4 mm.

If addition of 2 copper shims (0.2 mm) works good for you, then by all means stay with it. Compression will be lower with more shims (may lead to lower operating temperatures and less tendency of overheating).
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Old 09-29-2003, 06:21 PM   #3714
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD




When I use touring car shells, I will use the 5th body post. Pretty easy to do. Get an extra body post and drill a hole on the upper bumper plate support in the area near the carbon graphite upper deck and the front shocks. Use a self tapping screw so that you can mount the post from the bottom / underneath the upper bumper plate support. Mind the position of the hole / body post and the screw underneath as it is very close to the front belting and the pulley.
Thanks my friend,, , maybe some day you could do the vacations for Michael Salven!!
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Old 09-29-2003, 11:05 PM   #3715
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Hi guys. Just got a good deal on a 705 ($200 roller with header and NM pipe + several sets of wheels and tires). One of the questions I had when I was browsing through the manual is the receiver pack. What do you guys use and where can I get one ? Is it part# SER3208 ? If there are other alternatives, appreciate if you could share them.
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Old 09-29-2003, 11:22 PM   #3716
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
Hi guys. Just got a good deal on a 705 ($200 roller with header and NM pipe + several sets of wheels and tires). One of the questions I had when I was browsing through the manual is the receiver pack. What do you guys use and where can I get one ? Is it part# SER3208 ? If there are other alternatives, appreciate if you could share them.
nad138, welcome ! Where did you get the SER3208 part number? It did not show up on the Serpent's parts list.

You can get pre-made ones (shrinked wrapped with Rx battery connector) from Serpent that are 730 mAH. Part number is 801173. They also sell loose with 5 AAA NiMH batteries (750 mAH) with the battery plug wire and shink wrap unasembled. Part number is 1692.

The other cheaper option is to go and hunt the AAA NiMH batteries yourself on Ebay or any shop around you. However, you need to get the battery plug wire to connect it to the Rx and some shink wrap. The maximum capacity of the AAA is 800 mAH. GP and Sanyo has them. Get those.

However, if you DO NOT have any soldering experiences, I suggest you get the pre made receiver pack from Serpent. They can post to be very dangerous if you do not solder them properly. If you have friends who can do a good job soldering, then that would be the cheapest and best option.
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Old 09-30-2003, 08:57 AM   #3717
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Thanks InitialD. I got the part# from AshfordHobby. They said that part# 801173 got replaced by SER3208 ($27). I might try to get some premade ones and later make some myself. Haven't done any soldering job since college

I'll be hanging around here more and posting my questions when they arise.
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Old 09-30-2003, 12:26 PM   #3718
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Default Front tire

can you guys tell me what brand and style of front tire ou use for your 705?
The reason I ask is because I just got myself some GRP Fast tires, 26mm, disc rim. After putting them on, I noticed the tires don't spin freely (not enough clearance).
So I want to stick with something that people here have success with.
I can get Jaco, Ellergi, and SpeedMind here.
Also if I change to FC steering block, would that solve my tire clearance problem?
Thanks
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:12 PM   #3719
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Lawndoggie: You can use the 15 spoke Fast Tires or get Ellegi(they have the original serpent size).ATS tires also fit.
Otherwise get the FC blocks and you can use all front tires, but beware of your rear tires, the new Fast Tires 12 spoke are also to smal for your rear!
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Old 09-30-2003, 08:40 PM   #3720
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Default 5th body post

Hi Initial D,

Pls tell me what good dose it do to have a fifth body post.

Cheers!
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