R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-21-2003, 10:52 PM   #3646
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Last but not least, early batch also equipped with that wheel hub/hex built in with grub screw to hold them tight on the axle.
Yes, forgot about that one. That's one of the nice additions in the revised kit.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Have you ever had troubles with S705 dampers resulting from crash and or breaking/cracking arms? I think this is another weak point I would like to see improvement on the next S705.
Ummm, you're having problems with the shock bodies or the rubber bladders in the shocks? I have no problems with either. For the shock bodies, I use the aluminum bodied ones. The composite plastic ones will strip if you impact the car sufficiently hard in the wrong place.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
InitialD, are you located in Hong Kong?
No but I've always dreamed about being there. I'm based in Malaysia. Slightly above where you are.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 04:03 AM   #3647
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default Re: Winternats

Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
Modellor, are you doing the winternats in 2004? I was thinking about going again since it was such a great time last year. This yeat, I will come armed with an engine that will live for the full 5 minute qualifier without running dry...
Yep. Definately planning on doing the Nats provided I get an entry form. If I miss the Nats then I am heading to Brazil instead for the Pre-Worlds.

But I will be at one or the other and maybe both if I can get someone to run my car at the pre-worlds.
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 07:17 AM   #3648
Tech Regular
 
fmolzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 467
Default

"On Sunday, I decided to put back my Impulse PRO with a 3 port STS RS3 engine ( ) after canibalising some of the parts to prepare the 705 for a race a few weeks back. I actually got some motivation from Frederick's outlaw Streetspec to put it back which resulted from very little sleep." InitialD, cool to hear that I managed to inspire at least someone else to do the mad scientist approach to RC...
Modellor, are you designing your own ride, is that what I understand? I am still hoping for Serpent to come out with thir new 705 before the winternats, would be nice to have a new car to try. my current 705 has enough miles on it to where I feel I need to build a new car for the winternats anyway.
fmolzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 07:29 AM   #3649
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
Modellor, are you designing your own ride, is that what I understand?
I am going to running my own design at the Winternats. Also the new engine range also. Thats why we didnt bring the Serpent parts onto the market. We knew Serpent were working on a new car and I really wanted to bring my own car project forward 6months to get a huge advantage on design factors.
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 09:25 AM   #3650
Tech Elite
 
John Fontaine's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SouthEast PA
Posts: 2,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Fontaine
Default

I had a good run this weekend with my 705 as well, though I had issues with my front dog bones. I really need to come up with a bullet proof method other than having fuel tubing in the outdrives. What do you guys do?

What also is strange is that my 705 ran better at night when the sun was down than it did at 2-3pm. The track got much tighter and my push went away! Engine seemed to run better too as more o2 in the air during colder temps.
__________________
Xray and Serpent....very dusty!
John Fontaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 11:21 AM   #3651
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
I had a good run this weekend with my 705 as well, though I had issues with my front dog bones. I really need to come up with a bullet proof method other than having fuel tubing in the outdrives. What do you guys do?
Devin, glad you had a good weekend run too. What I do to mine was I cut and put pieces of O rings in the one way drive cup adapter. I don't know if that's what you want to hear but that was what I put on mine and I never have dogbone problems.

Perhaps maybe what I did different was to put the spacers on the one way drive cup adapters and NOT at the wheels. This pushes the dogbones into the cup the deepest at the wheel ends where the bearings in the steering knuckles are and prevents it from coming out because I notice that the dogbones come out most from that part when the steering reaches the end point.

A tip also from team Serpent drivers in Holland is also to use the non turbo glow plug copper shims on the shaft of the one way drive cup adapter. The copper shims have 6 mm internal diameter which is exactly the same as the diameter of the one way adapter shaft. This spacers out the drive cup unit out and also pushes the dogbones out a little towards the steering blocks. Any way is good.

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
What also is strange is that my 705 ran better at night when the sun was down than it did at 2-3pm. The track got much tighter and my push went away! Engine seemed to run better too as more o2 in the air during colder temps.
When temp tracks get lower, traction rises. This is what I notice too. I do better in the early heats in the late morning than heats during the mid afternoon.

I guess the solution to your push problem would be to change to softer tires. That's what I advise a guy to do too.

As for the engine, more oxygen in colder air would mean more power the engine produces. But be careful as the engine can overheat as too much oxygen goes in.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 11:26 AM   #3652
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
InitialD, cool to hear that I managed to inspire at least someone else to do the mad scientist approach to RC...
Mad scientist approach? Well no... Not as mad as you had done to yours... I merely put the car back as it was in pieces. No monster mods. It deserves to be assembled nicely like that for all it's been through...
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 11:32 AM   #3653
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I guess the solution to your push problem would be to change to softer tires. That's what I advise a guy to do too.

As for the engine, more oxygen in colder air would mean more power the engine produces. But be careful as the engine can overheat as too much oxygen goes in.
I would say it would be the other way. I reckon that if Devin is using the same tires at both times, then he needs to go to a harder tire during the day when temp is higher. My theory being that the tires are melting too much and then not generating the grip level they do when the tracj is cooler.
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 12:34 PM   #3654
Tech Elite
 
John Fontaine's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SouthEast PA
Posts: 2,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Fontaine
Default

Interesting suggestions from both InitialD and Modellor. I run GRP 45 shore 26mm fronts and GRP 40 shore 30 mm rears all day long. This is a high grip asphalt (just layed down, but now dusty) as it's a parking lot. Traction increases after practice when some compound gets laid down and dust gets blown away. But I do notice that the traction increases at night time. Since we don't start racing to nearly 2pm we do not see a cooler track till 7-8ish. Maybe the oil in the asphalt rises during the heat of the day and you loose traction?

As for the dogbone problem, I'll have to address it. Shimming it seems like a good idea from the dif out. I don't currently run a front one way, but a gear dif with pro outdrives. I can shim behind the outdrives to reduce the movement of the dogbones correct? Also to help reduce the push, I have 5K oil in my front dif. I just ordered 50K Mugen oil, that should help out. How much oil do you put in the dif when it's this thick? 5K I filled it up.
__________________
Xray and Serpent....very dusty!
John Fontaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 01:02 PM   #3655
Tech Regular
 
TurnNBurn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 384
Default

Devin,

If it helps any, the Original base setup for the Impulse StreetSpec called for 100K oil in the front gear diff, 50K in the rear gear diff. I'm not sure how you'd want to setup a front gear diff with the ball rear, so a little experimentation might be in order.

If I recall correctly, you are supposed to fill the oil up to the top of the gears in the diff. As you fill the diff case, you should turn the axle shaft on the bottom a few times to help the oil move around and fill the gaps in the case.

Oh, you probably know already, but some Permatex Blue Form-A-Gasket sealant will eliminate any chance of leakage.
TurnNBurn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 01:11 PM   #3656
Tech Adept
 
Schrijver99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Near Serpent (grrrr)
Posts: 247
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
A tip also from team Serpent drivers in Holland is also to use the non turbo glow plug copper shims on the shaft of the one way drive cup adapter. The copper shims have 6 mm internal diameter which is exactly the same as the diameter of the one way adapter shaft. This spacers out the drive cup unit out and also pushes the dogbones out a little towards the steering blocks. Any way is good.
Better to use plastic (nylon) rings, these won't cut your drivecups in two. Been using the copper shims and they are cutting the axle of the oneway drivecup in two. At least nylon is cheaper than new axles!
Schrijver99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 01:19 PM   #3657
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Better to use plastic (nylon) rings, these won't cut your drivecups in two. Been using the copper shims and they are cutting the axle of the oneway drivecup in two. At least nylon is cheaper than new axles!
Interesting feedback ! Thanks. I was thinking since the tip came Julius Kolff, it should work good.

I have not used the copper shims. Just used the O rings that I cut and fit as spacers. Where do you get nylon / plastic rings?

In any case, I'm currently using the copper shim at the main drive shaft at the 18T rear side pulley. No problems of the shim cutting the shaft there...
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 01:55 PM   #3658
Tech Adept
 
Schrijver99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Near Serpent (grrrr)
Posts: 247
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Interesting feedback ! Thanks. I was thinking since the tip came Julius Kolff, it should work good.
The team drivers get their parts for free. I (we) have to pay for them.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I have not used the copper shims. Just used the O rings that I cut and fit as spacers. Where do you get nylon / plastic rings?
Try a good hardwarestore or your LHS!

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
In any case, I'm currently using the copper shim at the main drive shaft at the 18T rear side pulley. No problems of the shim cutting the shaft there...
Trim a little bit of the end of the pully so you can use an E-clip in your alu pully adaptor.

Been using the front upper arms position mod last weekend: what a difference, major control on-throttle
New brake set with the new vented disk is aslo an improvement: much better control all the time (beginning - middle and at the end of sessions)
Schrijver99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 08:28 PM   #3659
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
The team drivers get their parts for free. I (we) have to pay for them.
That's a good one.

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Been using the front upper arms position mod last weekend: what a difference, major control on-throttle
Yes. This is what I experienced too. I noticed that through tight chicanes and flowing S bends, you can throttle half way and weave in and out of the corners. Simply amazing. With stiff shocks and smooth throttle control, the car really moves like a battery car in the tight infields ! I tried that mod on my old Impulse PRO and the result was the same !

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
New brake set with the new vented disk is aslo an improvement: much better control all the time (beginning - middle and at the end of sessions)
Yeah, I would think that the new brake pads would be better. I used the new vented brake disc with the current Mugen teflon brake pads that I had already modded and the braking seems to be a little more consisntant than I had with the older vented brake disc. I don't know why. Probably the way the vents are on the new disc. The vents are different. Can that have an effect to how much of brake fade and makes the brakes consistant / inconsistant?
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2003, 11:15 PM   #3660
Tech Master
 
Pyramid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: ID
Posts: 1,945
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That's a good one.
Yes. This is what I experienced too. I noticed that through tight chicanes and flowing S bends, you can throttle half way and weave in and out of the corners. Simply amazing. With stiff shocks and smooth throttle control, the car really moves like a battery car in the tight infields ! I tried that mod on my old Impulse PRO and the result was the same !
Can you point me where is the discussion for this front mod? I`ve been looking trough couple pages within this threads with no luck. Thanks
Pyramid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 710 Ron C. Nitro On-Road 23347 03-16-2010 02:47 PM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:44 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net