Serpent 705
#3556
Originally posted by serpentracer1
The car still transistions well but not as fast as say a Mtx3 but the 705 still out handles the mtx3 in my opinon and is smoother.
The car still transistions well but not as fast as say a Mtx3 but the 705 still out handles the mtx3 in my opinon and is smoother.
Originally posted by serpentracer1
I can achieve a much better ratio thatn the mugen that I know of just a matter of getting the clutch setup right. 1st 12 or 13/50 2nd 15 or 16/46 and with the new Lc clutch in the 2 speed I'll be able to adjust shift points to my advantage so when I run it I'll let yall know how it works.
I can achieve a much better ratio thatn the mugen that I know of just a matter of getting the clutch setup right. 1st 12 or 13/50 2nd 15 or 16/46 and with the new Lc clutch in the 2 speed I'll be able to adjust shift points to my advantage so when I run it I'll let yall know how it works.
You can mesh the older clutch pinions with the 705 LC spurs provided that the engine is tilted and slanted at a slight angle. Good luck.
#3557
Well,, I made some mesh measure with an old power cluth from OFNA, the 13 - 17 pinions mesh just perfect to the new spurs from the LC transmision 50t and 46t,
Ciao!
Ciao!
#3558
Tech Adept
InitialD I sure hope those aren't pubes I see in that pic
#3559
Weekend Run Notes
Ok, had a good run this weekend. Both on moderate / high speed track (Saturday) as well as on small technical track (Sunday). My setup for both tracks were the same. I actually did not do major changes on the basic setup since the last races just to keep some of the setup variables constant for my testing. For those interested, they are as below;
Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: +0mm
Set-up ride height: 8.5 mm
Camber Left: -2.5 degree
Camber Right: -2.5 degree
Track-width: 200mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 6mm
Steering block type: FC (new)
Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 5 mm
Set-up ride height: 7.5 mm
Camber Left: -4 degree
Camber Right: -4 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Spacer on upright: 2.5mm
Toe-in: 2 degree (toe-in)
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: red
Oil: 60W (Trinity Shock Oil)
Holes: 1
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock bladder: stock (black) with foam inserts
Shock-tower position: on bearingblock
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: red (Veteq)
Oil: 60W (Trinity Shock Oil)
Holes: 4
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock bladder: red (soft) with foam inserts
Shock-tower position: on bearingblock
Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: std.
Position: 45 degree (medium)
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: adjustable with front male blades
Position: 0 degree (flat - softest)
Tires Front:
Make: Speedmind
Hardness Left: 37
Hardness Right: 37
Diameter: 60.5 mm
Tires rear:
Make: Speedmind
Hardness Left: 37
Hardness Right: 37
Diameter: 65 mm
Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 15
Pinion 2nd: 18
Gear 1st: 50
Gear 2nd: 46
Pulley rear axle: 47
Pulley layshaft middle: 16
Pulley layshaft side: 18
Pulley middle shaft side: 24
Front axle:
Type: One way
Rear axle:
Type: ball differential
Diff. setting: hard
I have not played on our local track for some time and I decided to go with 37 shore front and rear Speedmind tires. I liked it a lot. I was still using the 4.5 mm split in the front and rear tires. At the end of playing 5 to 6 tanks, I ended with a split of 3.5 mm between the front and rear.
I was actually too lazy to go back and mount the the upper front arms back to stock positions. I left it where it is and decided to test the car again with the same Lola shell that I thought gave me handling problems earlier. This time, I used the guerney strip (170102) in the tail of the Lola shell. I think about 3 or 4 mm exposed and the car now handles very nicely. Enough rear traction but at the same time, the car transitions very fast and corners very sharply. Besides that, I rebuilt my rear shocks and installed the softer red shock bladders (909446). I noticed that this time, the rebound was very fast on the shocks. Anyway, I also narrowed the rear end a little using the 950 upper rear adjustable arms. I did not use the smaller hex wheel adapters because with the 0 offset Speedmind rear wheels, I could use the stock 11mm aluminum hex spacers and still be at 199mm.
I'm please to note that the car has lots of on power and off power steering. I think too much such that the rear wheels spun a little mid corner turning into the apex. Well, I actually solved that by turning down the steering EPA by about 15% and the car rolled in and out of corners nicely.
Initially, I tightened the rear FPS diff a little to balance out the off power oversteer and I found that I got a surge or power out of the corners. I thought I would loose off power steering a lot because I made the rear diff quite stiff. It didn't change the amount of off power steering much but what I noticed is that at moderate speed sweepers, the car's rear end "floats" around controllably. Seemingly, wherever I pointed my steering off power, the rear end will "float" the same direction. On power in the middle of the sweeper, the car cuts in very nicely and out to into the straights. I needed to be careful with the throttle coming out of the sweeper as there was a lot of on pwoer steering. I believe this is what is meant by 1/8th scale style driving.
Brakes? Yes, the Mugen teflon brake pads does slow down the car nicely after the high speed straight before the apex. The rear ends did not lock and braking line was straight. I'm wondering what kind of performance would the new Serpent brake pads would give...
So my guess now is that the front upper arm mod together with the smaller front tires is a keeper contrary to my conclusion the previous week that the two mods will make the car's front roll center too high. It could be the difference that the guerney strip made to the rear end of the car or the new shock bladders that are giving me better rear end grip. Or perhaps my idea of using softer front than rear tires to get same wear rate backfired and did not provide the car handling I wanted. In any case, I have a sneaky suspicion that it could be the rear shocks. Next week, I'll try the Protoform Stratus 2.1 TC shell and report any differences.
My apologies for the long winded report. It's just that there are still lots of things to discover with the car.
Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: +0mm
Set-up ride height: 8.5 mm
Camber Left: -2.5 degree
Camber Right: -2.5 degree
Track-width: 200mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 6mm
Steering block type: FC (new)
Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 5 mm
Set-up ride height: 7.5 mm
Camber Left: -4 degree
Camber Right: -4 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Spacer on upright: 2.5mm
Toe-in: 2 degree (toe-in)
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: red
Oil: 60W (Trinity Shock Oil)
Holes: 1
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock bladder: stock (black) with foam inserts
Shock-tower position: on bearingblock
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: red (Veteq)
Oil: 60W (Trinity Shock Oil)
Holes: 4
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock bladder: red (soft) with foam inserts
Shock-tower position: on bearingblock
Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: std.
Position: 45 degree (medium)
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: adjustable with front male blades
Position: 0 degree (flat - softest)
Tires Front:
Make: Speedmind
Hardness Left: 37
Hardness Right: 37
Diameter: 60.5 mm
Tires rear:
Make: Speedmind
Hardness Left: 37
Hardness Right: 37
Diameter: 65 mm
Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 15
Pinion 2nd: 18
Gear 1st: 50
Gear 2nd: 46
Pulley rear axle: 47
Pulley layshaft middle: 16
Pulley layshaft side: 18
Pulley middle shaft side: 24
Front axle:
Type: One way
Rear axle:
Type: ball differential
Diff. setting: hard
I have not played on our local track for some time and I decided to go with 37 shore front and rear Speedmind tires. I liked it a lot. I was still using the 4.5 mm split in the front and rear tires. At the end of playing 5 to 6 tanks, I ended with a split of 3.5 mm between the front and rear.
I was actually too lazy to go back and mount the the upper front arms back to stock positions. I left it where it is and decided to test the car again with the same Lola shell that I thought gave me handling problems earlier. This time, I used the guerney strip (170102) in the tail of the Lola shell. I think about 3 or 4 mm exposed and the car now handles very nicely. Enough rear traction but at the same time, the car transitions very fast and corners very sharply. Besides that, I rebuilt my rear shocks and installed the softer red shock bladders (909446). I noticed that this time, the rebound was very fast on the shocks. Anyway, I also narrowed the rear end a little using the 950 upper rear adjustable arms. I did not use the smaller hex wheel adapters because with the 0 offset Speedmind rear wheels, I could use the stock 11mm aluminum hex spacers and still be at 199mm.
I'm please to note that the car has lots of on power and off power steering. I think too much such that the rear wheels spun a little mid corner turning into the apex. Well, I actually solved that by turning down the steering EPA by about 15% and the car rolled in and out of corners nicely.
Initially, I tightened the rear FPS diff a little to balance out the off power oversteer and I found that I got a surge or power out of the corners. I thought I would loose off power steering a lot because I made the rear diff quite stiff. It didn't change the amount of off power steering much but what I noticed is that at moderate speed sweepers, the car's rear end "floats" around controllably. Seemingly, wherever I pointed my steering off power, the rear end will "float" the same direction. On power in the middle of the sweeper, the car cuts in very nicely and out to into the straights. I needed to be careful with the throttle coming out of the sweeper as there was a lot of on pwoer steering. I believe this is what is meant by 1/8th scale style driving.
Brakes? Yes, the Mugen teflon brake pads does slow down the car nicely after the high speed straight before the apex. The rear ends did not lock and braking line was straight. I'm wondering what kind of performance would the new Serpent brake pads would give...
So my guess now is that the front upper arm mod together with the smaller front tires is a keeper contrary to my conclusion the previous week that the two mods will make the car's front roll center too high. It could be the difference that the guerney strip made to the rear end of the car or the new shock bladders that are giving me better rear end grip. Or perhaps my idea of using softer front than rear tires to get same wear rate backfired and did not provide the car handling I wanted. In any case, I have a sneaky suspicion that it could be the rear shocks. Next week, I'll try the Protoform Stratus 2.1 TC shell and report any differences.
My apologies for the long winded report. It's just that there are still lots of things to discover with the car.
#3560
Originally posted by chorner
InitialD I sure hope those aren't pubes I see in that pic
InitialD I sure hope those aren't pubes I see in that pic
No, it's my moustache !
#3561
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Well,, I made some mesh measure with an old power cluth from OFNA, the 13 - 17 pinions mesh just perfect to the new spurs from the LC transmision 50t and 46t,
Well,, I made some mesh measure with an old power cluth from OFNA, the 13 - 17 pinions mesh just perfect to the new spurs from the LC transmision 50t and 46t,
I would reckon that if the 50T and 46T spurs mesh properly, all 1st speed and 2nd speed spurs will as they are of the same diameter !
#3562
Re: Weekend Run Notes
Originally posted by InitialD
My apologies for the long winded report. It's just that there are still lots of things to discover with the car.
My apologies for the long winded report. It's just that there are still lots of things to discover with the car.
Hopefully my order from rccarinternational will turn up this week and I can rebuild the front end of my car.....if the Impact dogbones work, that is!
Cheers, Mark.
#3563
EFRA TP06 Pipe
Ummm, I opened the products page on mytsn this morning and saw the new TP06 inline pipe being released officially today.
I still have that product page opened on a separate window but when I refreshed it just moments ago, it's now gone.
Anyway, the pipe is not the full inlet pipe set. Just the pipe alone. Part number is 2171.
I still have that product page opened on a separate window but when I refreshed it just moments ago, it's now gone.
Anyway, the pipe is not the full inlet pipe set. Just the pipe alone. Part number is 2171.
#3564
[Off Topic] Michael Salven's Radio Antennae
Ummm, there are not many people using stick radios where I come from but this is the first time I'm seeing this type of antennae on the Tx. And look at how long the antennae !
Picture courtesy of Mike Myers.
Picture courtesy of Mike Myers.
Last edited by InitialD; 09-18-2003 at 08:49 PM.
#3565
Re: [Off Topic] Michael Salven's Radio Antennae
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, there are not many people using stick radios where I come from but this is the first time I'm seeing this type of antennae on the Tx. And look at how long the antennae !
Ummm, there are not many people using stick radios where I come from but this is the first time I'm seeing this type of antennae on the Tx. And look at how long the antennae !
#3566
Re: Re: [Off Topic] Michael Salven's Radio Antennae
Originally posted by Vinyard
Er.. you better get permission for that photo sir. I think Mr Mike might not like it unless he says ok.. get it?
Er.. you better get permission for that photo sir. I think Mr Mike might not like it unless he says ok.. get it?
But then I don't think he'll mind seeing it on this thread as Mr. Mike Myers work for Serpent.
#3568
Originally posted by InitialD
Me shining alloy? Ummm, nothing new to show
I actually wanted to install the new external adjustable diff but they are not 47T... It only comes with 46T and if I need to use 47T, I need to drill. It looks easy but without proper tools, it is rather difficult to drill the holes spaced out equally in 3 places...
Also, I'm currently using FPS diff as I'm currently in a midst of testing out things.
Me shining alloy? Ummm, nothing new to show
I actually wanted to install the new external adjustable diff but they are not 47T... It only comes with 46T and if I need to use 47T, I need to drill. It looks easy but without proper tools, it is rather difficult to drill the holes spaced out equally in 3 places...
Also, I'm currently using FPS diff as I'm currently in a midst of testing out things.
#3569
Originally posted by Pyramid
The later production of all spur gears (still using same old part number) has all been molded to include those 3 holes.
The later production of all spur gears (still using same old part number) has all been molded to include those 3 holes.
#3570
Something for the weekend, Sir?
Very nice!