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Old 09-04-2003, 02:41 AM   #3316
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Default Re: New to RC

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Anyway, I just finished assembling Section4. I notices the front arms and rear arms are EXTREMELY tight. especially the back where the arms are connected to the shocks now... There is hardly any travel.. is this normal?? It takes substantial force to push the arms "up" and it only travels about 3cm (vertically), can this be right? When I take the shocks out, I expected the arms to hang freely, meaning if I take the car upside down, the arms should drop. But thats not the case. I reckon this is wrong because by having the arms sooooo tight, it limits the effectiveness of the shocks... can someone tell me how I can make things (especially the arms) lose.
Welcome

As I mentioned earlier to you, use a 3 mm drill bit with a dremel and carefully ream out the extra plastic flashes in the upper and lower arms where the hinge pin goes in. Else, use a heat gun to make the suspension arms mold in correctly.

As to your suspension travel, the arms in the hinge pins may be binding. Use the method above to solve the problem.

The other problem could be your shocks. Take it off and see if they work properly and smoothly. The round piston may still have extra plastic flashes that may cause the shock action to be binding and not smooth.

What you can do is to take the shock shaft and piston assembly after step 1.1 and put the shock shaft into the dremel's chuck. Spin the plastic piston onto a fine grit sand paper like the one showed in the Ashford Hobby link. Don't overdo it too much. Do it enough so that the shock piston and shaft assembly can drop into the shock body by it's own weight.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Also, will the parts "losen up" after running the car on the track for a while?
Yes. But this may take some time depending on how you run in your car.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Things seemed "tighter" after installing antiroll bars... it also seemed to limit vertical travels. I reckon if I don't want the car to roll over, would one just use stronger springs?
They should not after you get rid of all the bindings in the suspension arms and in the shocks.

Depends on your track layout, car setup and driving style, you may or may not like driving the car without the sway bars. You are right about the shock springs but to a certain extent, harder shock springs do not prevent the wheels from lifting.

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Last question, with the diff, when I move the rear wheels forward (both the same direction) there is slight metal noice, is this ok? And if I rotate the rear wheels in opposite directions, it is NOT as smooth... thats ok right? (This is what the local dealer told me to check)
What metal noise? I suggest you dismantle the rear diff and redo it again. Perhaps the thrust bearing is probably not aligned properly. The diff can be made very smooth.

What would be the best way is to assemble your car and then take it to the LHS and have them look at it. I have not found anybody who has assembled the 705 correct on the first try.

Anyway, have you put the extra shim on the rear side 18T pulley? You need to do some modifications as per the link below to avoid the pulley rubbing the bearing in the rear left bulkhead. There's also some useful tips there. Good luck.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=7907
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Old 09-04-2003, 04:46 AM   #3317
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Well I havnt posted in awhile on here,Ive got my car togathorand Ive run it twice now.Id like to share some impressions on it.The car out of the box with the setup I put on it handled awesome,couldnt believe the ease of driving it.I tested the car with 40 and than the 35 tires that came with it I saw just alittle off power push with the 40 tires on it and alittle on power push with the 35 on it I drove the car without making any adjustments to see how much of a change in the car over the time and it was more than controllable and didnt wear the tires as I expected a few tweaks here and there and I believe my car will be set for now Ive been in the hobby since 1989 and have been out of it the last 3yrs and so much has changed in the way of new things you can get now but the way you change setups havnt.Im very impressed with the car and happy the way it drives.Of course I took my time building it(alittle over a month) and reading this forum and others to help me along with the little bugs here and there that some people were having and I was surprised on the out come.Im not sure how some of you build your cars but Im a tool nut and if their is a tool that will help me do a better job on something I buy it.I picked up the Losi shock matching tool (Losa99170)I built the shocks the way I normally do and they felt great until I put them on this tool to see how off I was,now ive raced for yrs and being out of it doesnt mean I forgot how to build its common sense Let me tell you how off the compression and rebound was on the shocks even tho it felt really good to me this tool showed a huge difference in the shocks the only thing I got right in building them was the over all length and it still had to be tweaked abit.So for $30 us dollars its the best money I could of spent knowing that my front and rear shocks left to right had the same compression and rebound with and without the springs being on them . The tool is that precise.Thought id let you know about that.It did take me about 2-3hours to get the shocks right on or near perfect but is was well worth it.Also on the way for me is a new clutch for the 2-speed that they have out(shifting clutch in the gears) its almost the same as the on in the car but they installed 2 set screws in the middle of each shoe above the weight thats in the shoe it allows futher adjustment cause you can only adjust the ones on the side before they start to rub the inside of the bell.Not sure if yall know about that of not.Ive got the new diff adj not on yet.I was also told to use the Mugen hard or super hard springs in the clutch assy.Was told that it would make the car shift with a noticable diff without the power loss that you have with the stock springs if anyone has tried this let me know.Ive got aan 8 week series coming up and I want to try some things out.Well soprry I talked so long just thought id share some things.
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Old 09-04-2003, 05:14 AM   #3318
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
I picked up the Losi shock matching tool (Losa99170)I built the shocks the way I normally do and they felt great until I put them on this tool to see how off I was,now ive raced for yrs and being out of it doesnt mean I forgot how to build its common sense Let me tell you how off the compression and rebound was on the shocks even tho it felt really good to me this tool showed a huge difference in the shocks the only thing I got right in building them was the over all length and it still had to be tweaked abit.So for $30 us dollars its the best money I could of spent knowing that my front and rear shocks left to right had the same compression and rebound with and without the springs being on them .
This one?

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Old 09-04-2003, 05:48 AM   #3319
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Yep!! Dont leave home with out it in your tool box.The only thing I had to use different was to use metric screws the tool comes with std.only.
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Old 09-04-2003, 06:04 AM   #3320
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Great write-up above, "D"

BTW: Im currently running the car without added options, besides using red springs and 4.5mm rear spacers. I have removed both front and rear swaybars after "trial and error".

On another note Serpent should announce next years cars very soon, should be interesting. I heard something about a Serpent 950R...
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Old 09-04-2003, 06:11 AM   #3321
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Have you also removed the shock towers or cut them.Im running the car in tc form not gp
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Old 09-04-2003, 06:39 AM   #3322
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Im running with the front and rear shocks mounted on the bearingblocks, yes. The front shocktower is removed. The rear is still there, "uncut", to stabilize the car. I find that removing the front shocktower makes it much easier to adjust front droop since you dont need to remove the front shocktower then making adjustments.

The alu wheel-adaptors has been modified so that grubs screw secures them to the wheel axle.
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Old 09-04-2003, 06:52 AM   #3323
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I have read a lot of posts of guys having to remove the front shock brace to access the droop screws. When did you guys buy your cars?

I have the braces on and have full accessibilty to the front droop screws. There is about 3mm clearance between my brace and the droop screw holes. I must admit I got one of the second batch of fixed cars. Maybe they made the mounting blocks shorter after rethinking about accessibility faux-pas.

On another note regarding the radio plate front end screws. I have now modified the holes and drilled them a lot wider on the radio plate so that the center of the holes line up directly with the center of the holes in the bearing blocks. I then inserted a 2-step washer into the radio plate to fill the extra area before re-inserting the screw. Depending on the size of the washer you use you may have to recess a small area of the bearing block also to allow them to sit in properly.
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:34 AM   #3324
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modellor, I bought my kit in may, but Im pretty sure that the kit was part of the first batch of cars shipped to Sweden.
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:52 AM   #3325
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Default What receivers are you using

I say this because there is not a lot of room on the carbon mounting plate i want to use the novak synthesized receiver with my M8 but can not find room please post pictures if you have them
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:15 AM   #3326
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by johan
[B]BTW: Im currently running the car without added options, besides using red springs and 4.5mm rear spacers. I have removed both front and rear swaybars after "trial and error".

Ok, you're one step ahead of me on the no sway bar thingy. Any write up? How does the car feel? You run on a fast sweeping track right?

Quote:
Originally posted by johan
On another note Serpent should announce next years cars very soon, should be interesting. I heard something about a Serpent 950R...
Yeah... So I hear. Chicago Hobby Show?

Ummm, is the 950R a 950 with all the hop ups?

Talking about 1/8th scale, the battle for supremacy should be soon
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:23 AM   #3327
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Allright guys got a tech question for ya?Im going to be running an 8 race series on a small tech.track 100ft straight varing from 6 to 10ft wide perm.track.good traction surface.I run 47/22rear 18/25side norm front pulleys,It gives me an over drive of 2 1/2% on equal mmtires front and rear.Ive used this on larger tracks and the car rolls(quick) thru the infield now I run the one way on it cause the larger tracks have sweeping turns so it works well for me. Being its a really tight track I have the orig gear diff from my orig car with a 24pulley(ive got the opt gear orig is 26) on the front,if im right in putting this in the car because of the tech track I'll be able to run harder in and out of the corners because I will now have more brakes and with the over drive I use pull from corner to corner depending on the length of the race(main) I may go alittle higher on the over drive to allow for tire wear so I will end up with some over drive towards the end of the race..Should I build the front diff with 50,000 or 100,00 diff lube.Id be glad to hear some opinions on this. Thanks
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:45 AM   #3328
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Quote:
Originally posted by johan
The rear is still there, "uncut", to stabilize the car.
I find that I like to use the smaller shock tower meant for the Impact / 835 (808139). They are more sturdy I think.

In my opinion, shock towers can be dangerous when racing. If you crack and bend the towers where your shocks depend their support, then that will be the end of your race.

Quote:
Originally posted by johan
I find that removing the front shocktower makes it much easier to adjust front droop since you dont need to remove the front shocktower then making adjustments.
Yes, that is correct. Besides, I find that it gives a cleaner look and easier to work on in the front.

For smaller tight tracks, I think the car will benefit when the front shocks are mounted on the first available shock tower hole which makes the front steering more reactive. Then again, since I broke part of my front shock tower, they are cut high enough just after the first hole. So my front shock tower is pretty small and short but still gets in the way of the front droop screws.

Quote:
Originally posted by johan
The alu wheel-adaptors has been modified so that grubs screw secures them to the wheel axle.
Well, from what I see, the new 705 kits all now have grub screws on the aluminum hexes. Yes, they include purple shock o rings too.

Yes, I got myself the 8 mm and 9 mm rear hex wheel spacers. Have not tried it yet though. I also would want to try out the red softer shock membranes with the foam inserts. Heck, it's still 15 more minutes to Friday. Here it goes
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:47 AM   #3329
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Default Re: What receivers are you using

Quote:
Originally posted by Que
I say this because there is not a lot of room on the carbon mounting plate i want to use the novak synthesized receiver with my M8 but can not find room please post pictures if you have them
I'm currently using Futaba 3PK HRS receiver. It fits very nicely.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:52 AM   #3330
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Yea I run the m8 myself and use the futaba recievers in my cars fits nice in the car
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