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Old 09-02-2003, 07:58 AM   #3301
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
RM 230 or approx USD 60. It's not the original Serpent 4 mm chassis though.

Any shops in town selling it already? How much?

Original serpent is selling at aprox USD80 here in Indonesia since about almost 2 months ago.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:34 AM   #3302
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Original serpent is selling at aprox USD80 here in Indonesia since about almost 2 months ago.
US$80 ?? Wow...

D,
I forgot about Punisher Serpent 4mm chassis Picture. I'll post it when i'm back home. I don't think it's detail pictures, since i took it kinda distance away. Me and Punisher "only" is my pit buddy here at the track.
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Old 09-02-2003, 11:34 AM   #3303
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
Me and Punisher "only" is my pit buddy here at the track.
Aaahhh........I thought we had much more then that!!
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:02 PM   #3304
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I did have the old version, but that didn't matter. By hitting the spotter's foot, it bent the chassis in the front AND tweeked it noticeably from left to right. It ended up also breaking my right side graphite brace and my side belt. And, it bent just about all of my alluminum screws in the front. Oh, yes, and it tore up my body.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$OUCH!$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:15 PM   #3305
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Aaahhh........I thought we had much more then that!!
Yupe.
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Old 09-02-2003, 08:31 PM   #3306
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initiald..
ur 4mm chassis is not original

wat brand izit or custom made ? izit light n strong ?
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:00 PM   #3307
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
wat brand izit or custom made ? izit light n strong ?
No, not original... The brand is Shooter. I believe they make a lot of hop up parts for Kyosho and Mugen.

It's very strong. 7075 material. However, the chamfering at the sides, front and rear is not as much as the original one when I compare it to the pictures on mytsn. Heavy? I thought the 3 Racing 4 mm chassis for MTX-3 is heavier but I may be wrong. The cooling holes are of different design. It is somehow chamfered to be more aerodynamic and angled to scoop more air unlike the original chassis. Wait for Friday
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:16 PM   #3308
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Default Serpent 4mm Chassis

This is Punisher 4mm Chassis.
Hope it looks clear.
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:20 PM   #3309
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Default Re: Serpent 4mm Chassis

Thanks. The chamfers at the side and rear of the original chassis looks more. Did Punisher take any weight readings?

Is that's your MTX-3 with Pixy engine in the background I see?
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:24 PM   #3310
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Default Re: Re: Serpent 4mm Chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks. The chamfers at the side and rear of the original chassis looks more. Did Punisher take any weight readings?

Is that's your MTX-3 with Pixy engine in the background I see?
Yupe, that's mine. Its Night racing here.
and by the side is Punisher.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:28 PM   #3311
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Default Re: Re: Re: Serpent 4mm Chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
Yupe, that's mine. Its Night racing here.
and by the side is Punisher.
Ummm, one big happy family
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Old 09-03-2003, 09:16 PM   #3312
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Default CG and Roll Center Revisited

One of the post made me put my thoughts deep in to this subject... Particularly relating to the 705.

Johan and some of you guys have asked how did the front upper arm mod felt and putting one and one together, I came to this conclusion...

I've not tested my car for some time (1 week is long enough ). On the intention to get more steering and getting even tire wear front and rear, I embarked on using softer front tires than the rear and the car will still work OK with no oversteer. I have also used a 4.5 mm split between the front and rear tires (using 18T side pulley, 22T brake pulley and 47T rear diff pulley). This should also make for more steering when running smaller front tires. In my incomplete testings, I have not used equal front and rear tire shore. My apologies for not bringing this up earlier but I think the front upper arm mod increases the roll center thus making the front part roll less. This means less steering.

My guess this is why Michael Salven (and perhaps Ralph Burch who I'm not sure if he did the front upper arm mod) had to take off the front sway bar to get enough steering.

I would think that on high grip tracks, this mod would prevent traction rolling to a certain extent. If Ralph actually did the mod, he probably set the car for way too much steering as it was reported that his car flipped a few times.

Going further, I think I may have overdone things a little. I think my front roll center is too high so much so I do not get enough steering. This is because using smaller front tires by running the split already increases the front roll center. Doing the front upper arm mod will increase the front roll center further On my Impulse, I remembered that I had lots of steering WITHOUT the front upper arm mod but only running with 4.5 mm split front and rear tires. It felt very nice. I think I'll run equal front and rear tires with the upper front arm mod and see how it goes.
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:45 PM   #3313
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I can't ever seem to get any turn in when I run my front tires shorter. I have been trying to keep equal diameter front and rear, and it has been working for me lately.
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Old 09-03-2003, 11:09 PM   #3314
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I can't ever seem to get any turn in when I run my front tires shorter. I have been trying to keep equal diameter front and rear, and it has been working for me lately.
In what way do you run the front tires shorter? The reason I run smaller front tires is to get the same front and rear rollout as a result when using different pulleys.

If you're just running smaller front tires than the rear with the stock internal pulleys, you're making the car underdrive i.e. rear driving the front. That would make for understeer.
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Old 09-04-2003, 01:30 AM   #3315
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Default New to RC

Hi everyone.

I am new to RC. Just got a 705. I know, not a good idea as a newbie.
Anyway, I just finished assembling Section4. I notices the front arms and rear arms are EXTREMELY tight. especially the back where the arms are connected to the shocks now... There is hardly any travel.. is this normal?? It takes substantial force to push the arms "up" and it only travels about 3cm (vertically), can this be right? When I take the shocks out, I expected the arms to hang freely, meaning if I take the car upside down, the arms should drop. But thats not the case. I reckon this is wrong because by having the arms sooooo tight, it limits the effectiveness of the shocks... can someone tell me how I can make things (especially the arms) lose.
Also, will the parts "losen up" after running the car on the track for a while?
Things seemed "tighter" after installing antiroll bars... it also seemed to limit vertical travels. I reckon if I don't want the car to roll over, would one just use stronger springs?
Last question, with the diff, when I move the rear wheels forward (both the same direction) there is slight metal noice, is this ok? And if I rotate the rear wheels in opposite directions, it is NOT as smooth... thats ok right? (This is what the local dealer told me to check)
Thanks for all the help!!
BTW, is there anyone here in HK on the forum? I would like to have the car checked before actually running it.
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