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Old 08-18-2003, 07:36 PM   #3151
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Pokemon - havent had any problems like that yet but it is still early days. It might be possible to do what you are suggesting if you have access to a lathe and a small enough tapping die.

To everyone else - Update on modifying the front alloy solid axle.

As everyone knows James Kelly (a local driver at my club) solved the problem of premature wear on the ends of the solid axle by drilling and inserting a steel bar through the center of the axle. I recently went a step further. I drilled the center out of the solid axle as per James Kelly's example and tapped the hex to accept the grub screw to hold the steel bar. I then thought that too much excess weight was being carried from the alloy so what I have done is as follows:

I put a second flat spot on the steel bar on the right hand side and tapped another hole through the part were the bearing mounts. I then cut out the entire center part of the solid axle to leave just the hex section and the opposite bearing mounting section and attached just these parts to the steel bar via set screws.

I will try and post pictures of the operation asap.
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:42 PM   #3152
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
anyone have this problem with their brake poles ? u know..the pole that's attached to the brake linkage. mine is wearing out @ the bottom thru i think constant scrapping of the chassis. it's worn so thin i think the e-clip will fall off soon. i'm thinking of getting a new one but then again there could be ways of salvaging the old one. maybe by putting a washer and locked by screw..something like that. anyone mod it b4 or should i just get a new one..
mine wear a little but doesnt affect the breaking at all. i took out the e-clip, the e-clip coz my car unable to break & return throttle smoothly. have been running w/o e-clip for a few mths, no problems yet.
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:19 PM   #3153
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Hopefully this works.
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:21 PM   #3154
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ok. lets see. without the e-clip it wouldn't drop coz there's a screw holding it on top. so whats the use of the e-clip then ?
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:23 PM   #3155
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To stop it falling out the top when the car goes over the body
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:38 PM   #3156
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modellor..nice drawing....
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:43 PM   #3157
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
ok. lets see. without the e-clip it wouldn't drop coz there's a screw holding it on top. so whats the use of the e-clip then ?
The e clip stops the whole brake cam from coming out from the top of the car... which is pretty hard impossible to do that. That is probably why it works for taz without any problems.

The screw on the top brake linkage makes sure that the brake cam does not fall out from the bottom of the chassis and down to the ground.

Well, mine is pretty worn down because of the low ride height. So far, it has held up and I never had to take the e clip out or change the brake cam. This is on both my Impulse and my 705. When the brake cam wears to the same level as the chassis, it will not wear further. As the e clip does not restrain great forces from witholding the brake cam from coming out from the top of the car, I don't think you need to worry about it the e clip coming off.
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:04 PM   #3158
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hehe..i took out the eclips and thats where the problem starts..
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Old 08-18-2003, 11:56 PM   #3159
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Hey guys, after about 5 or 6 laps at my local track the rear belt will slip right off of the rear gear/pulley. One side of the gear is just open whilst the other side has a little flange keeping the belt on, why is this and what can I do to keep the belt from coming off?

Thanks
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Old 08-19-2003, 12:05 AM   #3160
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Accord, do you have a pic showing your rear diff pulley and brake pulley alignment?

The flanges on only one side of the pulleys are made that way which is the same with all other pulleys on other cars.

Your 22T or 23T brake pulley driving the rear belt should be installed on the 2 speed main shaft as close as possible to the right rear bulkhead where the 2 speed gear box is. The brake pins on the brake pulley should not rub on the bulkheads though...
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:01 AM   #3161
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Whoops, I don't mean the main 22/23t drive pulley, I mean the rear sprocket on the rear differential.

Even though the belt and everything looks fine now, once it's out on the track the belt slowly shifts to the left and eventually just totally comes off of the diff pulley.

Here are two pictures...

picture 1:
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:01 AM   #3162
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picture 2
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:22 AM   #3163
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Whoops, I don't mean the main 22/23t drive pulley, I mean the rear sprocket on the rear differential.
Trust me... Your problem has everything to do with the 22T/23T brake pulley

From your 2nd pic, it looks like the brake pulley is not aligned and is installed more to the left side. Push the brake pulley more to the right side (but make sure the brake pins do not rub the right rear bulkhead) so that the rear belt will not come off.
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:31 AM   #3164
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some ppl got problems pushing it to the far right becoz of the brake pins, u might need to shorten it. tat's wat i did too

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Trust me... Your problem has everything to do with the 22T/23T brake pulley

From your 2nd pic, it looks like the brake pulley is not aligned and is installed more to the left side. Push the brake pulley more to the right side (but make sure the brake pins do not rub the right rear bulkhead) so that the rear belt will not come off.
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Old 08-19-2003, 01:40 AM   #3165
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Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
some ppl got problems pushing it to the far right becoz of the brake pins, u might need to shorten it. tat's wat i did too
I pushed mine as far as I could without touching the right rear bulkhead. Perhaps I was not having any difficulties trying to align the belt or needed to shorten the brake pins because I was using a thick rear belt from the get go instead of the stock 4 mm one.
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