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Old 08-15-2003, 12:03 PM   #3136
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On my car it is the left upright that angled the spacer more toward the outside of the car, causing more camber to be applied to the wheel.
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Old 08-15-2003, 02:54 PM   #3137
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what is the main difference between the serpent 705 and the 835? I was looking around for pricing - the 705 actually costed more? I thought the 835 is newer? Both are touring cars....

Thx.

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Old 08-15-2003, 03:11 PM   #3138
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Loosenut,

The 835 is a 235mm 1/10th scale car, not a "Touring Car", as we commonly know them. The term can be confusing, because the most popular class for these cars in Europe is a 2WD .15 "Touring Car" class, where 235mm wide TC bodies are mounted on these chassis. This is currently the only class for this car that is recognized by IFMAR as far as a World Championship Title is concerned. The 835 you saw is probably for the 2WD version. There is also a 4WD version of the 835 available, which essentially makes this car a "mini" version of an 8th scale ride. These cars are usually run with prototype/open cockpit bodies (like their 8th scale cousins) in "Outlaw" classes, where anything goes (4WD, Turbo head engines, etc.).

The reason that the 2WD 835 is priced cheaper is because it doesn't have all the extra belts/pulleys/shafts required for 4WD, like the 200mm 705.

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Old 08-15-2003, 03:18 PM   #3139
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Heh...now I"m confused. 835 = impulse pro? I guess not. Let me rephrase my question.

What's the difference between 705 and the impulse pro? In short, which one is better? Hehe..thx.

I was confused because I couldn't find impulse pro on serpent.com...

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Old 08-15-2003, 03:29 PM   #3140
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Well, to clarify... the 705 and 835, are two totally different models, although suspension wise, they share many parts...

The 705 is basically an "Updated" version of the Impulse Pro, much like the Impulse Pro was an update to the original Impulse.

So to answer your question, the 705 is the Latest and Greatest version of Serpent's 200mm Touring Car.
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Old 08-15-2003, 05:16 PM   #3141
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I am trying to figure out whether or not my non-serpent servo saver is yielding the correct ackerman.

Could someone that has a spare SERPENT servo saver give me a few measurements such as the distance apart for the holes that hold the ball cups and the distance these holes are from the center mounting point. Using some calipers would probably be the best bet. Thanks.
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Old 08-16-2003, 02:48 AM   #3142
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Also:

Serpent 835 = latest version of Serpent Impact
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Old 08-17-2003, 12:43 PM   #3143
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ok... just wondering... how much do you guys think i could get for a new never used 705, jr xr3i, and a battery pack... i need money to get a kona stinky cuz im breaking my kona dawg every run on the bikercross... thnks for the help
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:17 AM   #3144
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Hi Guys,

Anyone got the part number for the Futaba steering servo saver for the 705? In a crash mine fell completely apart and I need to order a new one.

InitialD, do you still have the part number for the Hudy spring steel solid axel - I think I'll get one of these too.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:51 AM   #3145
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Anyone got the part number for the Futaba steering servo saver for the 705? In a crash mine fell completely apart and I need to order a new one.
Ummm, steering servo saver? Part number is 1634. That's for 1/10 scale. If your current one is already bust, you can get the one meant for 1/8th scale which is part number 1635. Apparently that one gives better Ackerman steering.

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Originally posted by markp27
InitialD, do you still have the part number for the Hudy spring steel solid axel - I think I'll get one of these too.
The only solid axle is 801240 and it's entirely in aluminum. The drive cups that you need to attached to the solid axle to hold the dogbones can come with the Hudy spring steel. Their part number is 801393. I suggest to probably get 2 of these solid axles as they can be a little weak. Also get some front belts (5 mm versions are nice 808361) as spares too while you're at it. You will probably need them as front solid axle tends to eat belts more often.
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Old 08-18-2003, 02:06 AM   #3146
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Thanks InitialD! You're a star!!!!

My glued-together bodyshell met its maker on Saturday morning :-((( Somehow the plastic seemed to have become very brittle. I had a not-too-big crash, but the front end completely shattered :-((( I could only find HPI bodyshells at the weekend and have bought myself a Stratus too see what its like.

My crash came once again from poor setup - this time from the engine. I had the idle mixture too rich and this meant after I'd been on full throttle, it took a long time for the revs to die down. The result of this was that when trying to break, the engine was still driving the wheels and I couldn't stop effectively :-(((
I got a bit lost with the engine setup, so need to start from scratch again.

Thanks for the part numbers.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 08-18-2003, 04:07 AM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
My glued-together bodyshell met its maker on Saturday morning :-((( Somehow the plastic seemed to have become very brittle. I had a not-too-big crash, but the front end completely shattered :-((( I could only find HPI bodyshells at the weekend and have bought myself a Stratus too see what its like.
Ummm, perhaps the hot weather over there is taking the toll on the old shell I hope it's just the bodyshell and nothing too serious broke... The Stratus shell should be nice for high speed circuits. Stable in the rear and enough steering.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
My crash came once again from poor setup - this time from the engine. I had the idle mixture too rich and this meant after I'd been on full throttle, it took a long time for the revs to die down. The result of this was that when trying to break, the engine was still driving the wheels and I couldn't stop effectively :-(((
I got a bit lost with the engine setup, so need to start from scratch again.
Mark, when I re-read it again, I thought it sounded like the low end needle being lean. If the engine idles at high RPM before the idle comes down, then the low end sounds pretty lean !!

Check the hole opening of the slide carb when the engine is at idle. The hole should not be larger than 1 mm. Remember when retuning, always start from HSN and then proceed to LSN. Always rich needle settings to lean needle settings.
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Old 08-18-2003, 04:57 AM   #3148
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I see! The test I did was to hold the throttle fully open for a few seconds and then leave go. The engine revs stayed relatively high for maybe 4 seconds and then went down to idle. Does this mean that the mixture on the LSN is too lean?

I'm going to have to reset all the settings back to default.

The problem is that the temp has really fallen over the last few days. The engine was running fine as we had 25 degrees early in the morning (I always run very early) and now the temp is down to 10 degrees, it has made a huge affect on the engine.

Thanks for the info, Mark.
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Old 08-18-2003, 05:44 AM   #3149
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Hi Mark,

Yes, It does mean the LSN is too lean. To stop this you need to screw the needle out a bit. If you find this leaves the engine too rich on the Bottom end after turing the LSN out you can compensate by leaning the HSN a bit (turning in).
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:26 PM   #3150
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anyone have this problem with their brake poles ? u know..the pole that's attached to the brake linkage. mine is wearing out @ the bottom thru i think constant scrapping of the chassis. it's worn so thin i think the e-clip will fall off soon. i'm thinking of getting a new one but then again there could be ways of salvaging the old one. maybe by putting a washer and locked by screw..something like that. anyone mod it b4 or should i just get a new one..
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