Serpent 705
08-13-2003, 10:40 PM
#3076
Tech Adept
What is better performance wise the composite shocks or the alloy ones?. I know that the composite(plastic) shocks are a lot lighter!
08-13-2003, 10:51 PM
#3077
Originally posted by Que
What is better performance wise the composite shocks or the alloy ones?. I know that the composite(plastic) shocks are a lot lighter!
What is better performance wise the composite shocks or the alloy ones?. I know that the composite(plastic) shocks are a lot lighter!
Also, in a race, you will not have any problems with the plastic / composite shock body stripping the thread and causing a shock leak when you brush against the wall or curb. The aluminum ones are sturdy and in my opinion, I think they are worth their extra weight.
08-13-2003, 11:10 PM
#3078
Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes Mark... That's the new FC Steering blocks he was using
Wasn't my non D1 pics I posted way back earlier not clear enough for you to differentiate?
The left one is the FC steering block and the other one is the normal one. The FC steering blocks are much lighter.
Yes Mark... That's the new FC Steering blocks he was using
Wasn't my non D1 pics I posted way back earlier not clear enough for you to differentiate?
The left one is the FC steering block and the other one is the normal one. The FC steering blocks are much lighter.
DOH!
I thought the steering block was a completely new one, as on the setup sheets, they are normally written as FC block and not "New".Thank for the non-D1 pic, InitialD - but, ahem, err
I have the FC blocks too Oh well, I need another new shell
I was just getting some early morning practice in when my car traction-rolled on the fastest corner on the circuit The real end cracked where the support posts are and now non of the downforce from the wing is transfered onto the wheel I think I may buy myself a couple of bodies this time!
Cheers, Mark.
08-13-2003, 11:23 PM
#3079
Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by markp27
Thank for the non-D1 pic, InitialD - but, ahem, err I have the FC blocks too
Thank for the non-D1 pic, InitialD - but, ahem, err
I have the FC blocks too
And then you can be forgiven
Last edited by InitialD; 08-13-2003 at 11:29 PM.
08-13-2003, 11:25 PM
#3080
Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by InitialD
Prove it man
Prove it man
08-13-2003, 11:33 PM
#3081
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by markp27
What and show off how dirty my car is
What and show off how dirty my car is
08-13-2003, 11:40 PM
#3082
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by InitialD
What's the use of the scrub a dub Photoshop filter that you have been using all this while?
What's the use of the scrub a dub Photoshop filter that you have been using all this while?
Without my special photoshop filter - Friday all the gory details will be shown - including FC blocks Do you want D1 or Ixus pictures?
08-13-2003, 11:51 PM
#3083
D1 pleeeease...
08-13-2003, 11:57 PM
#3084
Originally posted by InitialD
For a 3 belt car, you have a pulley system like this;
Front
24
24 16
18 23
46
Rear
Internal ratio for the front is as follows;
(24/16) x (24/18) = 2
Internal ratio for the rear is as follows;
46/23 = 2
For the optional 22T/47T/17T internal pulleys, the internal ratios are as follows;
Front
24
24 16
17 22
47
Rear
Internal ratio for the front;
(24/16) x (24/17) = 2.118
Internal ratio for the rear;
47/22 = 2.136
In this case, there is a very slight front overdrive which should be nothing to worry about.
It is important to make sure that the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same (or about the same) when you run the same diameter tires. If the front has a lower internal drive ratio than the rear, then you need to use different tire diameters (smaller front and rear) to make the front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT the same if you do not want any front overdrive. How much difference in front and rear tire diameter (split)? That you need to calculate also.
For a 3 belt car, you have a pulley system like this;
Front
24
24 16
18 23
46
Rear
Internal ratio for the front is as follows;
(24/16) x (24/18) = 2
Internal ratio for the rear is as follows;
46/23 = 2
For the optional 22T/47T/17T internal pulleys, the internal ratios are as follows;
Front
24
24 16
17 22
47
Rear
Internal ratio for the front;
(24/16) x (24/17) = 2.118
Internal ratio for the rear;
47/22 = 2.136
In this case, there is a very slight front overdrive which should be nothing to worry about.
It is important to make sure that the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same (or about the same) when you run the same diameter tires. If the front has a lower internal drive ratio than the rear, then you need to use different tire diameters (smaller front and rear) to make the front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT the same if you do not want any front overdrive. How much difference in front and rear tire diameter (split)? That you need to calculate also.
08-14-2003, 12:03 AM
#3085
Originally posted by apmk
Hi D, is tis pulley numbers the same as in Impulse pro (stock)?
Hi D, is tis pulley numbers the same as in Impulse pro (stock)?
Front
24
24 16
18 23
46
Rear
08-14-2003, 12:03 AM
#3086
1 question pls, how do we test if a shock is porperly bleed?
08-14-2003, 12:14 AM
#3087
Originally posted by apmk
1 question pls, how do we test if a shock is porperly bleed?
1 question pls, how do we test if a shock is porperly bleed?
The other tip that was on mytsn if I recalled is that when bleeding the shocks, you need to bleed it with 1 hole, 2 holes, 3 holes and 4 holes to get the bubbles completely out.
08-14-2003, 01:01 AM
#3088
Tech Adept
and roll the shock bladder on to the shock itself. first coat the bladder with shock oil first then there will be no place fot the air to go but out when you rool the bladder in place!!
08-14-2003, 01:14 AM
#3089
Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!
Originally posted by markp27
I think I may buy myself a couple of bodies this time!
I think I may buy myself a couple of bodies this time!
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3026
08-14-2003, 01:48 AM
#3090
Originally posted by InitialD
As in no bubbles in the shock oil? What I do is I use green slime from AE at the shock o rings below. I believe that keeps the air out while making sure that the shock action is smooth.
The other tip that was on mytsn if I recalled is that when bleeding the shocks, you need to bleed it with 1 hole, 2 holes, 3 holes and 4 holes to get the bubbles completely out.
As in no bubbles in the shock oil? What I do is I use green slime from AE at the shock o rings below. I believe that keeps the air out while making sure that the shock action is smooth.
The other tip that was on mytsn if I recalled is that when bleeding the shocks, you need to bleed it with 1 hole, 2 holes, 3 holes and 4 holes to get the bubbles completely out.