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Old 08-13-2003, 11:40 PM   #3076
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What is better performance wise the composite shocks or the alloy ones?. I know that the composite(plastic) shocks are a lot lighter!
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Old 08-13-2003, 11:51 PM   #3077
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
What is better performance wise the composite shocks or the alloy ones?. I know that the composite(plastic) shocks are a lot lighter!
To me, I find that the aluminum ones are more consistant. The thing is over here, the weather is hot and the aluminum ones will work better. That's what Serpent says by the way.

Also, in a race, you will not have any problems with the plastic / composite shock body stripping the thread and causing a shock leak when you brush against the wall or curb. The aluminum ones are sturdy and in my opinion, I think they are worth their extra weight.
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:10 AM   #3078
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Default Re: Re: Food for thought!

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Originally posted by InitialD
Yes Mark... That's the new FC Steering blocks he was using

Wasn't my non D1 pics I posted way back earlier not clear enough for you to differentiate?

The left one is the FC steering block and the other one is the normal one. The FC steering blocks are much lighter.
Hi guys,

DOH! I thought the steering block was a completely new one, as on the setup sheets, they are normally written as FC block and not "New".

Thank for the non-D1 pic, InitialD - but, ahem, err I have the FC blocks too

Oh well, I need another new shell I was just getting some early morning practice in when my car traction-rolled on the fastest corner on the circuit The real end cracked where the support posts are and now non of the downforce from the wing is transfered onto the wheel
I think I may buy myself a couple of bodies this time!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:23 AM   #3079
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Default Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!

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Originally posted by markp27
Thank for the non-D1 pic, InitialD - but, ahem, err I have the FC blocks too
Prove it man And then you can be forgiven

Last edited by InitialD; 08-14-2003 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:25 AM   #3080
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!

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Prove it man
What and show off how dirty my car is
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:33 AM   #3081
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!

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What and show off how dirty my car is
What's the use of the scrub a dub Photoshop filter that you have been using all this while?
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:40 AM   #3082
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!

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Originally posted by InitialD
What's the use of the scrub a dub Photoshop filter that you have been using all this while?
Ok, I'll show my car in all its glory! Without my special photoshop filter - Friday all the gory details will be shown - including FC blocks

Do you want D1 or Ixus pictures?
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:51 AM   #3083
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D1 pleeeease...
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Old 08-14-2003, 12:57 AM   #3084
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
For a 3 belt car, you have a pulley system like this;

Front

24

24 16

18 23

46

Rear

Internal ratio for the front is as follows;

(24/16) x (24/18) = 2

Internal ratio for the rear is as follows;

46/23 = 2

For the optional 22T/47T/17T internal pulleys, the internal ratios are as follows;

Front

24

24 16

17 22

47

Rear

Internal ratio for the front;

(24/16) x (24/17) = 2.118

Internal ratio for the rear;

47/22 = 2.136

In this case, there is a very slight front overdrive which should be nothing to worry about.

It is important to make sure that the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same (or about the same) when you run the same diameter tires. If the front has a lower internal drive ratio than the rear, then you need to use different tire diameters (smaller front and rear) to make the front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT the same if you do not want any front overdrive. How much difference in front and rear tire diameter (split)? That you need to calculate also.
Hi D, is tis pulley numbers the same as in Impulse pro (stock)?
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Old 08-14-2003, 01:03 AM   #3085
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Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
Hi D, is tis pulley numbers the same as in Impulse pro (stock)?
The pulleys as listed below are the same as the Impulse PRO;

Front

24

24 16

18 23

46

Rear
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Old 08-14-2003, 01:03 AM   #3086
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1 question pls, how do we test if a shock is porperly bleed?
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Old 08-14-2003, 01:14 AM   #3087
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Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
1 question pls, how do we test if a shock is porperly bleed?
As in no bubbles in the shock oil? What I do is I use green slime from AE at the shock o rings below. I believe that keeps the air out while making sure that the shock action is smooth.

The other tip that was on mytsn if I recalled is that when bleeding the shocks, you need to bleed it with 1 hole, 2 holes, 3 holes and 4 holes to get the bubbles completely out.
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Old 08-14-2003, 02:01 AM   #3088
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and roll the shock bladder on to the shock itself. first coat the bladder with shock oil first then there will be no place fot the air to go but out when you rool the bladder in place!!
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Old 08-14-2003, 02:14 AM   #3089
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Default Re: Re: Re: Food for thought!

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Originally posted by markp27
I think I may buy myself a couple of bodies this time!
Mark, probably you should notice that Serpent came out with a Stratus 1.0 shell. Part number is 170021. You might want to give it a try since you can get Serpent shells at your side

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3026
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Old 08-14-2003, 02:48 AM   #3090
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
As in no bubbles in the shock oil? What I do is I use green slime from AE at the shock o rings below. I believe that keeps the air out while making sure that the shock action is smooth.

The other tip that was on mytsn if I recalled is that when bleeding the shocks, you need to bleed it with 1 hole, 2 holes, 3 holes and 4 holes to get the bubbles completely out.
Wen pushin the shock shaft into the shock boby, shud it rebound or shud it remain?
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