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Old 08-13-2003, 07:44 PM   #3061
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Back to the soft shock bladders and foam inserts. The instructions
say to glue the stock shock bladders to the pivot caps. But why whould you do this. you would have to puy new shock bladders and pivot caps every time you break a pivot cap. Which i have done twice now!

Also wouldn't the soft bladders be best for every situation because the allow more natural freedom of movement. real shocks in cars don't have shock bladders so wouldnt using the softest ones on our cars be the best benefit. since we have to use them anyway?
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Old 08-13-2003, 07:56 PM   #3062
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Anyone see the mod Ralph Burch did to the rear up-right using an adjustable camber link on his car at the Sedan Nationals??
That's the 950 adjustable rear uprights (902303 & 902304) that Burch is using.
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:03 PM   #3063
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Back to the soft shock bladders and foam inserts. The instructions say to glue the stock shock bladders to the pivot caps. But why whould you do this. you would have to puy new shock bladders and pivot caps every time you break a pivot cap. Which i have done twice now!
Yeap, that is why I don't glue them on top of the shock caps. At one time when the shock bladders were of different shape, I believe you needed to glue it because they leak. I think they have changed the shape a little and there is no need to glue it to ensure that it stays put.

Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Also wouldn't the soft bladders be best for every situation because the allow more natural freedom of movement. real shocks in cars don't have shock bladders so wouldnt using the softest ones on our cars be the best benefit. since we have to use them anyway?
Well, shocks are very sensitive. I guess what you say may be correct... I might give it a try and see if it works generically in smooth and bumpy tracks... However my shocks at the moment are pretty smooth with the normal shock bladders. Any chance yours is binding? When new, the pistons should be sanded smoothly so that they can fall into the shock bodies without silicone oil by its own weight.
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:12 PM   #3064
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Well i am going with the soft bladders and staying with them. I put the shock shafts in the chuck of my dremel and hit it a little with sand paper 800# they fall easier than before but still catch a little. I don't want to remove to much material!
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:13 PM   #3065
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Default Re: Food for thought!

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Looks like a new steering block is coming to the 705.
Yes Mark... That's the new FC Steering blocks he was using

Wasn't my non D1 pics I posted way back earlier not clear enough for you to differentiate?

The left one is the FC steering block and the other one is the normal one. The FC steering blocks are much lighter.
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:14 PM   #3066
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Can some one post pictures of the upright's please i can't get on my tsn to see them at work!!
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:25 PM   #3067
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That's the 950 adjustable rear uprights (902303 & 902304) that Burch is using.
not sure if tat's 950 adjustable. if u look at ralph's car again, the upper arm looks like a "L" shape
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=8711&psid=2

then if u look at 950 wishbone rear upper right adjustable, looks more like a 705 stock arm
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=7119&psid=2

i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:33 PM   #3068
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Inital D,

What diameter is the 50T rear diff gear? Does it not sit rather low into the chassis?

I drew up a 50T 3mm pitch pulley on CAD and it measured at 52mm with a 1.5mm rim edge for the belt to track against. This would only have about 2mm clearance with a 4mm chassis.
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:42 PM   #3069
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Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?
You need to mod the 950 arm in order to make it fit. It is confirmed that it is a 950 arm. I would not know if this would later come out as a 705 hop up as with the other parts
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:42 PM   #3070
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Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
not sure if tat's 950 adjustable. if u look at ralph's car again, the upper arm looks like a "L" shape
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=8711&psid=2

then if u look at 950 wishbone rear upper right adjustable, looks more like a 705 stock arm
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=7119&psid=2

i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?
Yea, its hard to tell from those pics however, it still makes a good conversations piece.
Another mod Ralph had on his 2003 Nats 705 car was the new ball diff cover or external adjustable ball diff.


Wonder signs of the new "706" to come!!!
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:49 PM   #3071
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Inital D,

What diameter is the 50T rear diff gear? Does it not sit rather low into the chassis?

I drew up a 50T 3mm pitch pulley on CAD and it measured at 52mm with a 1.5mm rim edge for the belt to track against. This would only have about 2mm clearance with a 4mm chassis.
Modellor,
Any closer to have a 4mm chassis from you!?!?
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:54 PM   #3072
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
What diameter is the 50T rear diff gear? Does it not sit rather low into the chassis?
I'll go back and measure. But it does sit lower on the chassis and comes out a little over the bottom of the chassis hole. I would gather that about 1 mm of the 50T rear diff pulley comes out of the chassis hole.

On a small track where the 50T rear diff pulley would be useful, I would think that the chassis will not bottom out so much as to touch the track. You need to watch out for the ride height to allow for the large 50T rear pulley.

On the Serpent starter box, the back support plate on the rear of the starter box will rub this pulley and rear belt. So you actually need to make some kind of recess on it for the rear diff pulley and belt to clear.

I believe you also need to shave off the rear backplate that supports the rear bottom pivot pins and the right rear bulkhead as well where the shock towers / shocks mount to allow the 50T rear diff pulley to rotate without binding. Hopefully I can post some pics on Friday
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Old 08-13-2003, 09:42 PM   #3073
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how do u calculate the internal ratios for 705. u have front diff pulley, mid, 2 pulley, rear 2 pulley and rear diff pulley
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Old 08-13-2003, 09:59 PM   #3074
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
how do u calculate the internal ratios for 705. u have front diff pulley, mid, 2 pulley, rear 2 pulley and rear diff pulley
For a 3 belt car, you have a pulley system like this;

Front

24

24 16

18 23

46

Rear

Internal ratio for the front is as follows;

(24/16) x (24/18) = 2

Internal ratio for the rear is as follows;

46/23 = 2

For the optional 22T/47T/17T internal pulleys, the internal ratios are as follows;

Front

24

24 16

17 22

47

Rear

Internal ratio for the front;

(24/16) x (24/17) = 2.118

Internal ratio for the rear;

47/22 = 2.136

In this case, there is a very slight front overdrive which should be nothing to worry about.

It is important to make sure that the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same (or about the same) when you run the same diameter tires. If the front has a lower internal drive ratio than the rear, then you need to use different tire diameters (smaller front and rear) to make the front and rear TIRE ROLLOUT the same if you do not want any front overdrive. How much difference in front and rear tire diameter (split)? That you need to calculate also.
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Old 08-13-2003, 10:19 PM   #3075
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thanks
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