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Old 08-10-2003, 11:46 PM   #3016
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Well, I was at the nationals. The 705 in my opinion was the best car out there. Is Ralph hadn't flamed out the 2 or 3 times that he did, I think he would have been right up there with Hara. I thought the 705 was faster, but I guess not if Hara got the fastest lap. I'm not sure about the new HPI. It looks like oo much HPI plastic to me. If I ever do buy an HPI, it'll be a while once they get all the bugs worked out. In my opinion, Serpent has the reputation, not HPI. When I think of HPI I think of backyard bashers, not race winning machines. I'll wait to see how well this new R40 does and if continues to do good, I'll consider it, but for now I'll stick with either a seprent or mugen. I thought the NTC3 was a good car because it won so many races, but I figured out this weekend that the NTC3 is brittle in comparison to other cars, and I will not deal with Associated again. They deny too many problems with their car. They sure do replace parts often consiering they say that there parts don't wear out often.
Anyway, do you guys think the 705 is the way to go if I want a race worthy car?
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Old 08-11-2003, 01:11 AM   #3017
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Yes,
You can use 30mm wide tires on the rear of a Impulse/705.
Yes you can. Up to 30.1 mm
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:05 AM   #3018
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
rear shocks
the shocks collasp w/o any/much rebound b4 the race. i need to top up the shock oil and reshape the baldders in order for it to work again but after 1 heat it collasp again. the setting is set to softest. the clicks r not noticable. wat could be wrong or any parts i need to replace..the shocks r mounted on bearing block
You could get more consistant rebound by doing this... Insert a foam or sponge at the shock cap before the rubber bladder. Some use a small piece of fuel tubing. Cut it about 5 mm. I don't CA the rubber bladder to the shock cap as suggested by the manual.

Serpent actually recently came out a part for this to put onto the existing shocks...

http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=2883

Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
clutch engagement
i find there's no punch on the 705. my clutch setting is set to std as recommend by manual. 9.2mm. i read somewhere some r using 8+-mm. would tat engage the clutch faster ? i'm using 15/50 for 1st gear. would changing the pulleys 17/22/47 help since not many track as big as s2
Yes, changing the internal pulleys to 17T/22T/47T will improve the off line acceleration reponsiveness especially when using the 15T pinion and 50T spur. Using 15T/18T pinions and 50T/46T spurs with the optional internal pulleys, that's just about right for Titiwangsa's straights.

As for the clutch setting, first and foremost, you need to set the spacing of the cluch shoe and the clutch bell as per the manual. I suggest instead of setting to 0.7 mm, set it to 0.4 or 0.5 mm. After this is set, assemble and put the Centax clutch back in place as per the manual. Now, spin the clutchbell. If the clutchbell rubs on the clutch shoe, you need to put some shims before putting assembling the purple rubber sealed bearing in the clutch. Kyosho sells some shims (comes in 0.1, 0.2 and 03. mm) that fits in there correctly. Try out 0.1 mm shim and spin the clutchbell and see if the clutchbell can spin smoothly. If not, add some more shims one at a time.

These shims can also take out any end play on the clutchbell after the Centax clutch has been installed. Make sure you have very little end play as this will make sure that the thrust bearings have longer life. Also, follow exactly the instruction on assembling the thrust bearings. If I'm not mistaken, the one with a larger inner diameter ring (5.2 mm) goes into the clutchbell first before the smaller inner dfiameter ring (5 mm). This also ensures the bearing gets to last longer.

As for the Centax clutch main spring, I suggest you tighten it down fully as tight as you can. The 9.2 mm setting is just a guideline. On some engines, you will find that 9.2 mm is a little too much. On some engines, you may need to tighten it down further. So for some engines you may need to go with 8.xx mm which will loosen the spring a little for the shoes to engage the clutchbell.

What Michael Salven does is to assemble the clutch and test it out on track. If the car is free revving without the clutch engaging, then loosen the spring nut with quarter turns at a time. You can do this without taking out the whole clutch assembly. There is a hole in between the clutchbell which you can insert your 1.5 mm allen in. Once you catch the spring nut notch and lock it down, you can rotate the flywheel to tighten (anticlockwise) or loosen (clockwise) the spring nut that holds the Centax spring. In this case you want to loosen the Centax spring nut until the clutch engages. Keep loosening the spring clutch until you find that the car can launch the hardest from standstill or out of the corners. Your NS12 will thank you for tightening the clutch screw.


Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
chassis
my chassis seems bend again. difficult to get it perfect. now thinking of using TC body n hopefully the rubber bumper would protect it from further damage. do u think it'll help or should i juz stick to lola. btw lola i need to change the roll bar similiar 2 urs.
When the chassis is bend at the front noose, it is OK so long as it does not bend at the point which is in the middle of front bulkheads. If the bend starts after the point where the first screw starts in your front bearing block, then your chassis will tweak.

Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
rx box
i understand some ppl use the team magic rx box similiar to trinity for the 705. i brought one and seems a lot of mods required to fit it in. any idea how ppl mount it ?
Simple. I don't use one. I simply use a black wiring tape that you can get anywhere and wrap around the receiver a few times.
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:17 AM   #3019
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Quote:
Originally posted by johan
Salven with his 705 won 200nt ec! Congratulations also to swede Per-Ola Hård in seventh place!

Team Serpent seems to be doing good; wins and tq in EC 1:8, 235ic, 200nt, and Roar 1:8 in a couple of weeks...
Yeah. Michael made a convincing win Julius was not bad too.
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:24 AM   #3020
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedyOB-4
Can any of you guys convince me that a 705 is better than an MTX-3? I'm going to either purchase an R40, MTX-3, or 05. I will be doing extremely competitive racing(ie: Regionals, Nationals, etc.) I want the best RACE car available. Oh, and does anyone know where to get the novamega 2105 MCP engine and 2171 TP06 exhaust pipe?
SpeedyOB-4, which type of track you run on? On tight technical tracks, the box stock MTX-3 gearing is good. Not that the 705 is lowsy on small tight tracks... Just that you need to change the gearing and the internal pulleys a little. On larger tracks, the 705 rules. It's one hardy car which that will see you through competitive racing. In any case, you can't go wrong with either cars...

As for the pipe, the legal version of the TP05 inline pipe is 2185. The engine that you might want to get is the 2105TMS for the turbo 3 port engine and 2103RMS for the non-turbo version. You can also get the 2105TMS engine and get a non turbo plug button head to use the normal glowplugs.
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Old 08-11-2003, 02:35 AM   #3021
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initial-d

thanks 4 d reply

Quote:
You can do this without taking out the whole clutch assembly
u do this while the engine is running ? kinda dangerous....

Quote:
Serpent actually recently came out a part for this to put onto the existing shocks...
hehe luckily i save some of those rubber thingy from the bumpers. perfectly round coz from the screw mounts..
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Old 08-11-2003, 03:03 AM   #3022
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Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
u do this while the engine is running ? kinda dangerous....
No no... Do it when the engine stops. Make sure the engine and clutch was cool too.

Quote:
Originally posted by pokemon
hehe luckily i save some of those rubber thingy from the bumpers. perfectly round coz from the screw mounts..
Yes, that is what I use too You can make plenty foam pieces with those...
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Old 08-11-2003, 11:07 AM   #3023
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No, the engine I want is the 2105 MCP. It's the new one from novamega that Ralph was using at the nationals along with the 2171 TP06 pipe. Does anyone know where to get these? I run Murnan modified 2103 RMS engine now and it's blazing fast, but the 2105 MCP is even faster. Can the 705 be setup easily to run on parking lot tracks with rubber tires? I race both on parking lot tight tracks, and large prepared tracks, and I'd like a car that does well on both.
Thanks for previous info!
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Old 08-11-2003, 12:29 PM   #3024
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedyOB-4
No, the engine I want is the 2105 MCP. It's the new one from novamega that Ralph was using at the nationals along with the 2171 TP06 pipe. Does anyone know where to get these?
That engine is not available yet. But after Ralph's blistering back strait speed, I'm convinced that is the engine to seek out next.
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Old 08-11-2003, 06:34 PM   #3025
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Are the soft bladders and the inserts the best for overall shock performance?

also what is the best diff for the rear of the 705 ball or diff? I ask this becuse i have the stock ball diff in there right now and i was rebuilding the diff, and the screw not the set screw but the one used for tightness of the diff broke off in half and is still inside the other half!!!!!!!!!! i cant get it out so i have to replace it so i thought is there a better one than the stock one!!!! I will get that one
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Old 08-11-2003, 08:34 PM   #3026
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedyOB-4
No, the engine I want is the 2105 MCP. It's the new one from novamega that Ralph was using at the nationals along with the 2171 TP06 pipe. Does anyone know where to get these? I run Murnan modified 2103 RMS engine now and it's blazing fast, but the 2105 MCP is even faster.
SpeedyOB-4, my bad... If they are new, then I have no knowledge about the TP06 pipe and 2105 MCP.

Don't forget that engine tuning is a black art form... With Team Serpent in the hands of chief mechanic Art Carbonnel, they can make any engine fast.

Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedyOB-4
Can the 705 be setup easily to run on parking lot tracks with rubber tires? I race both on parking lot tight tracks, and large prepared tracks, and I'd like a car that does well on both.
Thanks for previous info!
You can. Just take off the 7 mm spacer on the rear uprights. Use zero spacers. Change the front one way diff to gear diffs or front solid axle. You need more droop travel for the front and rear when running rubber tires. The shocks would have to be softer also in order to get the car to roll a little more. So white springs all around would be useful.
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Old 08-11-2003, 08:50 PM   #3027
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
Are the soft bladders and the inserts the best for overall shock performance?
It depends on the conditions of the track... The softer bladders work well on bumpy tracks.

Quote:
Originally posted by Que
also what is the best diff for the rear of the 705 ball or diff? I ask this becuse i have the stock ball diff in there right now and i was rebuilding the diff, and the screw not the set screw but the one used for tightness of the diff broke off in half and is still inside the other half!!!!!!!!!! i cant get it out so i have to replace it so i thought is there a better one than the stock one!!!! I will get that one
You have 2 options. The stock ball diff or the FPS diff. The FPS diff is more expensive, heavier (about 30 grams more if I'm not mistaken) but however it provides for smoother and more consistant diff action than the normal ball diff.

If you want to get the ball diff, I suggest you get the one for Impact (801396) which is made from Hudy hardened steel and not the one specifically for 705 (801430) as they are made from normal steel.
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Old 08-11-2003, 08:57 PM   #3028
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yes, I took the hardened diff off of my impulse and put it on my 705, mainly because it weighs less and will wear better (spring steel).
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Old 08-11-2003, 09:29 PM   #3029
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Why didn't serpent just release the 705 with the impluse ball diff
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Old 08-11-2003, 10:30 PM   #3030
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initiald

juz to confirm abt the 17/22/47 pulleys. i noticed my rear is already 47t so need to get the 22 n 17. do i need to change the belt too ?
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